Okay are these MUST HAVES for you?

[Shan-man]

I don't understand all this fuss over fender mirrors. Just get into the right lane and camp there until you hit Disney, to heck with all this lane-changing nonsense Seriously, I just lean toward the window and I can see straight back along my rig, or lean a little to the right and I can see something practically right next to my mirror... blind spot? what blind spot? A parabolic mirror on the passenger side does the trick for that side, though as I said above, I rarely need to merge right! I really enjoyed my little $100 backup camera from Target too, but that's another story.

 

[bama_ed]

Just a clarification on the 4/7 pin adaptor: if your TV has a 7-pin plug the adaptor does work in taking it down to a 4-pin to take the 4-pin plug from your trailer (if your trailer has a 4-pin like my pop-up does) or other smaller, light-weight trailer.

However, most trailers over a certain weight (should) require brakes so they come with the 7-pin plug. If you have a 4-pin plug on your TV the adaptor doesn't work in reverse.

Think of it this way: the TV #-of-pins should be equal to or bigger than the trailer #-of-pins. Most Suburbans come with the 7-pin connection but if you have a 4-pin on your Expedition, you need to take the vehicle in to get it wired up for a 7-pin if you intend to use it to pull the trailer.

Good luck!

Bama ED

 

[BradyBz12]

We've used the slip on extended mirrors in the past (Navigator pulling a 28' TT). They worked just fine and didn't muck up the truck.

We don't use anything now, but we've got a much smaller setup now (Explorer pulling 21' hybrid). I do most of the driving and do mostly what Shan suggested. Worst case, put your blinker on, wait 5 seconds and just start moving - they'll get out of your way!

Oh... DH was reading over my shoulder and said definitely don't mess around with the trailer brakes/controller - make sure you have what you really need to get there SAFELY.

 

[clkelley]

I had to convert my old truck from 4-pin to 7-pin. There is an adapter. Made by Hoppy, found it at Auto Zone for about $25. (It makes your vehicle a permanent 7-pin AND a permanent 4-pin)

It plugged into my 4-pin and was mounted permanently on my vehicle with a plate. In addition, it also had the additional wires to connect the charge line, brake controller, and backup lights. We did connect the charge line and an isolator to keep my camper battery charged while on the road.

I don't have electric brakes on my camper, I have surge brakes, so just tucked the brake wire and backup wire out of the way. My new truck had everything pre wired so didn't have to do anything. It also has everything I need for a brake controller should I get a larger camper.

 

[SCCamper]

If you are still interested, this is a link to the mirrors that you can have if you'd like:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/clip-on-tow-mirror/10438

I don't know how much the shipping would be. If you like them, I will find out and get back to you.

 

[mdoc]

Back when we used to have a TT, we had McKesh mirrors. DH definitely considered extended towing mirrors a must-have. He didn't feel the need for any other mirrors. We got the McKesh mirrors online from the same place that sells the Hensley hitch. Now that we have a motorhome he uses a backup camera and side cameras. I'm sure there's still some blind spots, though.

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

First off- thank you all for your responses and advice/etc. Just because I may not have responded to your post individually does NOT mean I don't appreciate your post! Thank you!

Are you sure he wants to go on this trip? Wow, what a lot of fussing over a blind spot. I recently bought the slip over existing mirror extensions from CW and I can see fine around my 31' 5'er. I can see the sides of my trailer and behind it.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/cipa-slip-on-tow-mirrors/7753d

You have at least one axle with brakes. Uhaul or any place that installs hitches and what not can put in a brake controller for you. Most vehicles already have the wiring harness under the dash. It's usually tucked underneath the brake pedal. Whether or not the harness has the wires by the bumper I'm not sure. I use a Drawtite digital controller. I bought it in 04 and it's worked fine. Good luck with Mr blind spot lol.

LOL
Yeah he wants to go on the trip.. he's just hardheaded about things sometimes. I think he's being hardheaded because at first he "assumed" we would be taking his vehicle and started saying he needed new tires (so does not need new tires!) etc. etc. and then I informed him we'd be using my vehicle and why-- then all the sudden well we still need the mirrors and looky your pin isn't a 7 pin/etc. To be honest I think he's trying to be difficult so we'll use his vehicle and then he'll use that as an excuse to do unnecessary stuff to his vehicle that he just wants. He's trying to play me in other words. Mama aint having it. LOL

How wide is your trailer? Just curious because when I talked to DH about these posts and even mentioned some of the trailers like yours- he was like yeah but how WIDE is it? He said ours is 8ft wide and supposedly the widest allowed. Is that true? And is yours 8ft wide? So I can tell him that YES people with 8ft wide trailers can use extended mirrors just fine. LOL
(LOL@Mr. Blind Spot. I'm so calling him that on the road trip. Totally gonna do it!)

I don't understand all this fuss over fender mirrors. Just get into the right lane and camp there until you hit Disney, to heck with all this lane-changing nonsense Seriously, I just lean toward the window and I can see straight back along my rig, or lean a little to the right and I can see something practically right next to my mirror... blind spot? what blind spot? A parabolic mirror on the passenger side does the trick for that side, though as I said above, I rarely need to merge right! I really enjoyed my little $100 backup camera from Target too, but that's another story.

You crack me up and I read your post to him and he had to crack a smile too. I'm with you with all this lane-changing nonsense. LOL I think he's thinking more along the lines of when we have to stop for bathroom breaks/etc. (we do have 3 kids and heck I have to go a lot too when I'm drinking all this water LOL) and then camping somewhere overnight/etc. I think if he really COULD just stay in the fast lane and not change lanes the entire time he'd be fine- which is probably why he's never said a word about this before on our 2-4hr trips to camp in the past.... but this trip is going to be a lot longer than that. Last time we drove- it was mostly me driving btw- it was over 24hs and we barely stopped for anything besides gas/bathroom a couple of times and one time to eat quickly at an IHOP or something like that. I drove all night and still took over 24hrs. This time longer with staying to sleep somewhere since DH cannot drive all night like I can- he's no nightowl (understatement of the year)

All your posts are helping my case though. NOW he's saying okay okay the extended clip on mirrors will be fine. LOL

I had to convert my old truck from 4-pin to 7-pin. There is an adapter. Made by Hoppy, found it at Auto Zone for about $25. (It makes your vehicle a permanent 7-pin AND a permanent 4-pin)

It plugged into my 4-pin and was mounted permanently on my vehicle with a plate. In addition, it also had the additional wires to connect the charge line, brake controller, and backup lights. We did connect the charge line and an isolator to keep my camper battery charged while on the road.

I don't have electric brakes on my camper, I have surge brakes, so just tucked the brake wire and backup wire out of the way. My new truck had everything pre wired so didn't have to do anything. It also has everything I need for a brake controller should I get a larger camper.

This is interesting- so it can be done but not without the brakes connected/wired up for the trailer brakes.

BUT GET THIS..... upon reading your post to him he was all like um Shelley... even when I've pulled it with my vehicle it's not rigged for the trailer brakes. What the fudgety fudge? Maybe I'd rather have not known about that... all these times we've been towing it the brakes to the trailer haven't been hooked up? That's dangerous huh? How much does it usually run to get your vehicle wired up/etc. to make it where the brakes work on the trailer from your vehicle? That's scary....
ugh to find all this out so close to our trip is freaking me right out- let me tell you!

Oh shoot I went to autozone online and found it- but then had to click to find out price and it asked for my zipcode- tried a few and all the stores in the surrounding area here it says not available. ARGHHHHHHHH

If you are still interested, this is a link to the mirrors that you can have if you'd like:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/clip-on-tow-mirror/10438

I don't know how much the shipping would be. If you like them, I will find out and get back to you.

Those look great- would it be too much trouble to find out how much shipping would be? LMK and thanks sooooooooo much!

 

[stpetedisneydad]

Well, seems to me that if Mr. Blindspot thinks he's playin' you then just get him the mirrors he wants. That'll shut him up. As for the brakes, YES YOU NEED THEM!!! You don't need to be driving down the interstate at 55-60 mph and have to do a panic stop. Inertia will NOT be your friend. Your trailer will try to pass you backwards as it jack knifes possibly causing a serious wreck and injuries or at the least ruining your trip. If this happens you will not be doing the happy dance.

Tell DH that real men use brake controllers!!

 

[medic9016]

I have an electric brake controller that I will send you also. It is pre wired for my dodge 2500. All you would have to do is go to a ford dealer and get the pigtail for your Expedition and cut off the Dodge pigtail and connect the Ford. It is a Husky tow electric brake controlled. It was only in my truck for a few month before I changed to a prodigy. Send me a PM if you want it and I will take it to Scott(SCCamper) and they can be mailed together.

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

I have an electric brake controller that I will send you also. It is pre wired for my dodge 2500. All you would have to do is go to a ford dealer and get the pigtail for your Expedition and cut off the Dodge pigtail and connect the Ford. It is a Husky tow electric brake controlled. It was only in my truck for a few month before I changed to a prodigy. Send me a PM if you want it and I will take it to Scott(SCCamper) and they can be mailed together.

Wow, you folks are too nice!! I mean seriously... so kind! I'm so thankful to you all for your kindness! I'll send you a pm. You guys have no idea how much we appreciate helping us save some $$. I was already thinking how to feed us on less money or something with all this stuff coming out of the woodwork all the sudden that we need to do before leaving in a few weeks. And DH informs me that the toilet needs a valve. Probably won't cost much but I also had to get my brake pads replaced and the rotors were completely shot too (heard squeeking- that's why I got them checked). I hate when things add up like that -you know how it goes. ugh THANK YOU!

 

[Thumper_ehhhhh]

I have several friends that have these mirrors. They swear by them. I just have the add on ones for my suburban. I also had the add on ones for my astro both with no problems. If he wants fender ones look at these. You can put them on any car or truck.

http://www.hensleymfg.com/mckeshmirrors.html

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

I have several friends that have these mirrors. They swear by them. I just have the add on ones for my suburban. I also had the add on ones for my astro both with no problems. If he wants fender ones look at these. You can put them on any car or truck.

http://www.hensleymfg.com/mckeshmirrors.html

Hey that's the one I saw and mentioned to DH. I thought they would work better -seemed like around the door like that they'd fit ANY truck and wouldn't damage the truck- but the price kinda put me off. (x2 for both sides too!) LOL
Did you get it with the extra convex or whatever little additional mirror or just the big one?

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

Okay new info- and more questions!

Okay Jeff was looking to see how to wire this up for the electric brake controller medic9016 offered us (what an angel!!!) and I was looking online to see what we'd need.

When I was looking online I found this:
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~20260.htm

I wasn't sure what it was, if we needed it, etc. I was just reading all the info below it. And I was like wait a minute- that says 1997-2008 Expedition should be pre-wired for this and mine is a 2004. So I go tell Jeff and he follows the directions on that page and finds the plug under the dashboard. then he goes back to following the line for our 4pin plug and he's all like this is half the way under the car and then it disappears into the frame- it's gonna be a (word deleted for the innocent eyes here LOL) to try to do that on my own....... and then he gets back near the plug and guess what he sees? A WIRE THAT IS EVEN LABALLED ELECTRIC BRACK CONTROL that goes the entire length of the vehice but then is cut off/ends right before the 4pin plug -it's not attached.

So does that mean my vehicle is wired for electric brake (obviously right?) but it just wasn't connected because they put in a 4pin plug (Jeff says it's obvious it was done by factory- factory installed 4pin plug).

So what does this mean?
Does this mean all we need is the brake controller medic is sending, do we also need that thing I linked to above? And then dh can just change it to a 7pin or WHAT? What else is connecting to a 7pin that is not on a 4pin? Because DH says he can count 4 wires going into the 4pin, plus the brake controller wire that ends right before the 4pin connector (obviously not connected to it) that makes 5 wires- what are the other 2 wires that are supposed to be connected to a 7pin? Please let me know! DH is off today and we can do some running around to get stuff to get a move on this before our upcoming trip. But this sounds like good news -right? that it's already pre-wired for brake controller but just doesn't have the "accessories" needed and the 7pin to make it actually work?

Help please!

I wrote Scott- I'm not sure the clipons he has offered to send will work on my mirrors. I just realized my mirrors are not the regular rectangular shape. I pm'd him to see if they'll work or not. My mirrors are rectangular yes- but the part around the actual mirror is not just rectangular like the picture he showed me in that link. It's fatter, triangular AND on the bottom it has the extra lights part for the turn signals. So I'm not sure the mirrors he has will clip on MY mirrors.... I hope so... but I'm not sure.

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

Okay another question- we were looking for the 7 pin adapter to put on my vehicle- but DH says it's not showing the right ones. They have PINS in there- the one he has on his vehicle and the one that we need to work with our Rv has to have like the 'blades' inside- not pins or pinholes. KWIM? I hope you know what I'm talking about because we can't seem to find this at all online so we must be not using the right words or calling it the right thing.

omg I'm getting a headache... hope someone can help us figure this out? LOL

 

[stpetedisneydad]

Yes it seems your truck was wired for brakes at the factory, it was just never utilized. Have DH swap to the 7 pin plug, you won't need to use all the connections. There is usually a pin for 12 volts from the truck to the camper to charge the camper battery or power the fridge if it has the capability to run on 12 volts and a pin for backup lights. If your camper doesn't have them then just leave those pins unconnected.

The adapter you mentioned above sure would make connecting the controller to your trucks wiring a whole lot easier. My Chevy had the same thing. Connect the wires to the controller then plug into the truck, it's practically fool proof.

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

Yes it seems your truck was wired for brakes at the factory, it was just never utilized. Have DH swap to the 7 pin plug, you won't need to use all the connections. There is usually a pin for 12 volts from the truck to the camper to charge the camper battery or power the fridge if it has the capability to run on 12 volts and a pin for backup lights. If your camper doesn't have them then just leave those pins unconnected.

The adapter you mentioned above sure would make connecting the controller to your trucks wiring a whole lot easier. My Chevy had the same thing. Connect the wires to the controller then plug into the truck, it's practically fool proof.

Thank you! That helps a lot!
So okay we found it online- finding it close by so we don't have to pay shipping and WAIT for it is another thing altogether. Looks like we definitely need the controller wiring adapter to go with the brake controller medic is sending- and then the 7 way round flat pin (female).

I'm not sure about everything but DH said he understood your post and basically HIS (already had 7 pin) DID charge up the battery on the trailer when hooked to the vehicle or when the vehicle was running or something... but that mine won't since even changing it to a 7-way flat pin connector on my vehicle there aren't enough wires so obviously my vehicle was wired for a 4 way pin BUT also wired for the electric brake controller- not wired for the additional stuff needed to be able to charge up the trailer while hooked up? (which is a bummer actually- but too much of a pain and cost to get it wired up just to charge up the trailer -although that would have been nice! It's a fair trade off- going in the more dependable vehicle with more space for our kids and our stuff/etc. but not being able to charge up the trailer while hooked up.

So does that sound like we have it right? with medic's brake controller we just need the wiring adapter for the brake controller and then the 7 way flat pin connector (female) to hook to the RV? DH says he can do all this wiring no problem. (he used to be a car mechanic btw. now he's a maintenance mechanic for a factory but he still works on all the machinery, wiring, even some computer stuff there LOL)

 

[stpetedisneydad]

Sounds like DH has it all under control. The female 7 pin receptacle and the controller adapter and you should be good to go.

 

[BibbidyBobbidyBoo]

Sounds like DH has it all under control. The female 7 pin receptacle and the controller adapter and you should be good to go.

I know! I'm so excited because now I know he hasn't been using brakes this is so much better to have the brakes working and NOT have to take my vehice in, pay a fortune, etc. to have it wired for the brakes! And better yet- DH said he checked and HIS vehicle is NOT pre-wired for brakes- even though it has the 7 pin. so hardy har har- now he can't fight me over which vehicle to take and then use that to try to get new "stuff" on his vehicle because of towing the trailer to FW. hehe *evil laugh* hehe

Oh and I went by Tractor Supply (had to go past it anyway this evening) and they had the 7 pin connector we needed with bracket- and the brake controller connector that plugs into my car under the dash. So once we get the brake controller from sweetie pie medic..... we should be good to go! So exciting! Thank you all so much!

 

[clkelley]

At some point you may want to install that battery charge line. It is not difficult at all and it's really nice to be able to keep the camper battery charged and the fridge running while on the road.

Here are the instructions.

Tools needed:
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
Wire connector crimp tool
20 or so 3" or longer tie wraps
Parts necessary from
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032058 :
1 ea. # 275-226 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive Relay, $6.29
1 roll #278-569 35-ft 10-Gauge Hookup WireBlack, $13.99
1 pkg #270-1084 25A Blade-Type Automotive Fuses, $1.49
1 ea. #270-1234 30-Amp Inline Blade-Type Fuse Holder, $2.39
A NOTE ON FUSES - a 20A fuse can blow if the trailer battery is
extremely low and the fridge is set to run on 12V DC. Also, a #270-1085
30-Amp fuse can be used if the 25A is not sufficient. The relay is
rated at 30A and these are fast-blow fuses. However if the 25A proves
sufficient, it is better to use a fuse that blows before reaching the
maximum current rating of the relay.
1 pkg #278-1632 4" Nylon Wire Ties, $1.99
1 pkg #64-3111 12-10 Gauge Shrink Butt Connectors, $1.99
1 pkg #64-3140 Low-voltage Tap-Ins, $1.69
1 pkg #64-3120 Insulated Ring Connectors, $1.69
2 pkg #64-3137 1/4" Crimp-On Quick Disconnects, $1.69
Installation:
If your vehicle already has a trailer battery charge wire routed from
the 7-pin connector to the engine compartment, you can skip steps 1-5.
1. Disconnect the negative cable at the battery.
2. Jack up vehicle and support using stands.
3. Connect 10 gauge wire to "Battery Charge" pin of 7-pin connector.
4. Route the 10 gauge wire under the vehicle to the engine compartment.
Use tie wraps to secure the wire and keep it away from heat and
mechanical hazards.
5. Bring the 10 gauge wire up into the engine compartment near the
battery.
6. Mount the 30A relay near the battery using an existing screw, or
drill a hole for mounting.
7. Cut a 6" length of wire off the end of the 10 gauge wire.
8. Crimp a quick disconnect "female" connector to one end of the 6"
wire.
9. Crimp an ring connector to the other end of the 6" wire using a ring
with a hole large enough for the relay mounting screw to pass through.
10. Put the relay mounting screw through the ring connector on the 6"
wire and mount the relay.
11. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the low current "ground"
lug of the 30A relay.
12. Locate the positive terminal of your battery.
13. Determine if the positive battery cable already has an unused 10-12
gauge auxiliary wire. If so, simply insert one lead on the 30A fuse
holder into the butt connector provided and crimp it. Skip to step 22.
14. Otherwise if there is no visible auxiliary wire, determine if the
battery uses top mount stud or side mount cables.
15. If it is a top mount stud, select a ring connector with a hole
large
enough to clear the batter cable tightening bolt.
16. Crimp the ring connector on one lead on the 30A fuse holder.
17. Put the ring connector over the battery cable clamp bolt, reinstall
the nut, and tighten sufficiently. Skip to step 22.
18. Otherwise if the battery uses side mount cables, follow the cable
to
the starter solenoid. Disconnect the battery cable from the solenoid.
19. Select a ring connector with a hole large enough to clear the
batter
cable stud on the solenoid.
20. Crimp the ring connector on one lead on the 30A fuse holder.
21. Put the ring connector over the solenoid stud, re-install the
battery cable and nut, and tighten sufficiently.
22. Cut a length of wire off the end of the 10 gauge wire long enough
to
reach from the fuse holder to the relay. Leave enough to secure the
wire with ties.
33. Connect one end of the wire to the fuse hold using a "butt"
connector.
34. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to the other end of the wire.
35. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the high current +12V lug
of the 30A relay.
36. Route the 10-gauge wire from the 7-pin connector to the relay and
cut off leaving enough length to secure with tie wraps.
37. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to the end of the wire from the
7-pin connector.
38. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the high current negative
lug of the 30A relay (opposite side).
39. Crimp a "female" quick disconnect to one end of the remaining loose
10-gauge wire.
40. Slide the quick disconnect connector onto the low current positive
lug of the 30A relay (opposite the ground lug).
Now you have done the easy part ;-).
41. Locate a source of +12V switched by the ignition key (i.e. only
"hot" when the key engine is running). For older cars you may find
that
another terminal at the starter solenoid will meet this requirement.
For newer cars you can call a local automotive electrical shop, or
possibly get a wiring diagram from the library or a purchased manual.
42. Use the "Low-voltage Tapin" to connect the other end of the low
current positive wire from the 30A relay to the source of switched 12V
power.

 

[Thumper_ehhhhh]

What year is his suburban. all the 2002 -2006 mine being 2004 have the seven pin connector. All it needs is the brake controler and the quick connect harness. It plugs into the panel under the drivers dash and then plugs into the back of the brake controller. Very easy to do.