New to DSLR, going to Disney soon, should I take it?

[Disney*Dreamer]

My husband got me a Sony A300 recently, and admittingly, I do not know how to set everything yet. (Yes I need to read the manuel). Also, I only have the kit lens. So I can run it on Auto, unless I take the time to read everything (could do that on the ride down).

But with only the kit lens, I am wondering if it will be worth carrying around. We have been so many times, and without a good lens, the only real pictures I will want are of my kids, and a few at Epcot since this is our first Flower and Garden festival (or whatever it's called), oh, plus Star Wars weekend (which is why we are traveling during this time.) Not our first star wars weekend, but a good time none the less.

I have 2 point and shoots that are adequate to meet my needs, but I am wondering if there is any advantage to taking the A300 until I know what I am doing with it. I know it will take better pictures, obviously, but will they be that much better that it will be worth it?

 

[scoot241]

My husband got me a Sony A300 recently, and admittingly, I do not know how to set everything yet. (Yes I need to read the manuel). Also, I only have the kit lens. So I can run it on Auto, unless I take the time to read everything (could do that on the ride down).

But with only the kit lens, I am wondering if it will be worth carrying around. We have been so many times, and without a good lens, the only real pictures I will want are of my kids, and a few at Epcot since this is our first Flower and Garden festival (or whatever it's called), oh, plus Star Wars weekend (which is why we are traveling during this time.) Not our first star wars weekend, but a good time none the less.

I have 2 point and shoots that are adequate to meet my needs, but I am wondering if there is any advantage to taking the A300 until I know what I am doing with it. I know it will take better pictures, obviously, but will they be that much better that it will be worth it?

I say take it; if nothing else, you can run it on P mode (or whatever Sony calls it) that's pretty much automatic. If you want to start learning how to use it while you're there, you also have that option.

 

[Pea-n-Me]

It probably depends on what your ultimate goal is - picture quality vs experience/fun with your camera.

You should be able to get some decent shots on auto or semi-auto modes with the kit lens. There may be times you're frustrated that you don't have the type of lens you want or need; or that your getting blur or improper exposure, etc. But you will get some keepers, and some that you really love, I bet, too. (Those are likely to be outdoors or in good light.)

OTOH, if you don't bring it, will you miss having it? Only you'll know how you're likely to feel.

Another thing to consider is do you have what you need to carry a dSLR and do you have other equipment to go with it yet?

I honestly don't know that a quick cram reading the manual will help all that much. It can be kind of overwhelming. Best results usually come with simply using it and trying out different things once you know some basics.

 

[zackiedawg]

Absolutely there is an advantage to taking it along. "Practice makes perfect" would be the simplest reason of course! But there are other reasons too.

First off, most DSLRs, A300 included, can function extremely capably in 'P' mode or 'auto' mode, so folks who haven't yet mastered the controls can still get P&S style photos from the camera - meaning just point-and-shoot, and get good results. Admittedly the kit lens doesn't have a ton of range like a big zoom would have, but with your sensor's crop factor, an 18-70 lens will cover 27mm (fairly wide - in fact wider than many P&S cameras can go) to 105mm. This is a good, usable range for almost any walkaround shots, portrait shots, landscapes, and scenics. For comparison, a typical '3x optical' P&S camera will have a range of 36mm to 108mm. The only thing you'll be missing is long telephoto range, so animals at AK off in the distance might not be as close as you'd want.

But the A300 will have other advantages. For one thing, you can shoot fairly comfortably in lower light - ISO800 is still perfectly usable, something that is highly unlikely on most P&S models - good detail and low noise. And if you need to, you can even push up to ISO1600 and still get decent results. You don't have to know how to use these modes necessarily - the camera has 'scene' modes on the dial that you can choose for various situations (and as you select them, the screen will tell you what the mode is used for, just to make sure you pick the right one). Action, Night scene, Portrait, etc are all there for the easy selection. Also, the flash is more powerful than on many P&S cameras, so you can take pretty decent indoor flash shots when needed. And the focus, shutter actuation, and burst modes are all very quick, which will still make catching your kids in action easier.

I'd say bring it, and if it isn't too much bulk, also bring along a compact P&S so you have another camera you're comfortable with. Try the P and Auto modes, and scene modes, on the A300 every once in a while, but if scared you'll mess up an opportunity, use your other camera for some shots too when in doubt. Or even both! You can always delete duplicates later. If you're faced with some challenging shots, like low light, fast motion, indoor flash, or handheld night shots...try out the A300 in the appropriate scene mode - even if you don't know what you're doing, it should still outperform most P&S cameras. And in between, when the family isn't in the shot and you have some spare time in between waiting on line or walking around, whip out the A300 and try playing with a few settings, or taking some odd compositions...take a few practice photos just to start getting the hang of the camera and how it works.

Feel free to browse my Disney galleries - much of what's in there was shot with an A300, which is my current camera too. I've got a different lens than the kit lens, but it can give you some idea of the versatility of the camera and its abilities.

Good luck!

 

[Pea-n-Me]

I could be wrong, but my sense from the OP is that she is not familiar with things like ISO and focal length of lenses.

 

[jann1033]

i think it depends on what you want to do on vacation. imo a vacation isn't the best time to learn to use a dslr( or really any new camera). you could just use it on auto and maybe get more useful shots than with your p&s but if you are more in "vacation mode" than "photo mode" i might either take both and plan on maybe a day or two to mess with the dslr ( with photos you don't really care if they are keepers or not just in case they aren't) and use mostly the p&s or just use the p&s for one more trip. i'm just thinking will the dslr cause you more of a headache( till you feel comfortable with it) if you are happy with your p&s vacation shots? once you learn the camera you will get better photos but till then you might be disappointed..i say this due to reading thread after thread on here from those with new cameras that come back disappointed with what they thought would be spectacular photos of their "once in a lifetime" moments taken with a camera they weren't comfortable with.
i realize i am in the minority but i don't really go to wdw for photo ops, i go more for riding attractions( due to my 10 yr old alter ego). last time i took my slr and would take a dslr( don't own a P&s) but i only take it some days since we travel as light as we can ( ie if it doesn't fit in a pocket it stays in the room or at home ) which doesn't really include a big camera bag and tripod, monopod etc..but kids are grown and we have gotten to the age that any changes in hub's and my appearance are better left unrecorded
any other vac. i have it 24/7 but not at wdw.

 

[Disney*Dreamer]

Thanks for the advice, I am still torn. I have the Sony H2 as my p&s, really a bridge with superzoom 12x, and a great flash. I know this camera like the back of my hand, and only run it in manuel mode. Both cameras are bulky though, so I definantly won't be carrying both of them. Dh has a little Nikon Coolpix s210, but I would not at all be happy with it.

I have an okay bag with the A300, ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/465624-REG/Tamrac_353601_3536_Express_6_Bag.html) not the one I would have chosen, but dh had the best intentions, so have a way to carry it is not a factor, what other equipment to you mean? As far as my tripod goes, no I am not taking it, with the kids, stroller, diaper bag (hate to call it that since they are not in diapers), purchases, camera, I already have to much to lug onto the buses or trams if we drive in.

 

[Disney*Dreamer]

I could be wrong, but my sense from the OP is that she is not familiar with things like ISO and focal length of lenses.

No, I am familiar with them, just don't know how to set them on the A300 yet. I have had it for a few weeks and just haven't taken the time.

 

[MM_Bound]

On our last trip I brought both. I carried the DSLR on days that I felt were better or prime photo days, (decent weather, character meals, ect) and then days when we were going on lots of rides, or the weather was poor I packed the p&s.

 

[zackiedawg]

I would add to my recommendation, since you mentioned your familiarity with ISO, aperture, etc and your manual use of your H2, that I really think you'd be fine with the A300. Just FYI, I shot with an H5 for 3 years before getting my A300 last year - my familiarity with the H5 made getting used to the A300 much easier, as though the controls may be in a few different places, they work similarly and adjust similarly for previous Sony users. You'll miss a little of that zoom range - but only if you're after those types of shots. I would think you could use "P" mode instead of auto, which is an automatic mode with the ability to manipulate a few settings...it works great with the A300. You have a dedicated ISO button right on top, so choosing between Auto to ISO1600 is a breeze...just press the button, rotate the thumbwheel...and voila! The A300 also has Program Shift like the H2 and H5 do - rotate the thumbwheel on front when in P mode, and you can manipulate the Aperture/shutter combination the camera uses to control depth of field and shutter speed, even though you are still using automatic focus and metering.

 

[annnewjerz]

I'd bring the A300, as well as your favorite p&s.

You can always "step down" to the p&s if you bring both and you feel like you aren't interested in carrying the A300 or are unhappy with your shots, but "stepping up" to your A300 if you feel like you aren't getting the shots you want with your p&s isn't an option if you don't even bring it.

 

[Disney*Dreamer]

Thank you so much for typing this out. I makes me feel better that you have had a similar camera in the past, so you know where I am coming from. I really need to just shoot some with it before I go. I tried at my little gilrs recital rehersal, that didn't go very well, I thought I knew where all the settings were at, but I was wrong, with the excpetion of the ISO, which, as you mentioned, is obvious. I just need to figure the other settings out. I thought I knew, because i had went out and used it, got some really great shots for my first time with it, imo. And was confident, and then got there and had a brain freeze. I always seem to panic with indoors.

Would you care to tell me some about the metering on the A300?

I would add to my recommendation, since you mentioned your familiarity with ISO, aperture, etc and your manual use of your H2, that I really think you'd be fine with the A300. Just FYI, I shot with an H5 for 3 years before getting my A300 last year - my familiarity with the H5 made getting used to the A300 much easier, as though the controls may be in a few different places, they work similarly and adjust similarly for previous Sony users. You'll miss a little of that zoom range - but only if you're after those types of shots. I would think you could use "P" mode instead of auto, which is an automatic mode with the ability to manipulate a few settings...it works great with the A300. You have a dedicated ISO button right on top, so choosing between Auto to ISO1600 is a breeze...just press the button, rotate the thumbwheel...and voila! The A300 also has Program Shift like the H2 and H5 do - rotate the thumbwheel on front when in P mode, and you can manipulate the Aperture/shutter combination the camera uses to control depth of field and shutter speed, even though you are still using automatic focus and metering.

annnewjerz - I think I will pack them both, we are going to every park twice, with the exception of Epcot, so I will at least have a chance to retake some if I don't like what I am getting.


I want to think everyone else too. I think I now feel better about taking it, and getting to know it more before I go.

 

[zackiedawg]

Would you care to tell me some about the metering on the A300?

Sure...here's the very basics:

If you go to 'P' mode, which will be the same as it was on your H2...that will give you basically auto everything, but with the ability to make some settings changes to customize a bit.

The first adjustment is the ISO - but you found that one. It is obvious!

The second adjustment would be the EV, or exposure value, which you can adjust up or down by a stop or two. This is a small button on the back top of the camera with a +/- on it. If you press and hold this button, and turn the thumbwheel, you will see the EV scale on the LCD screen showing your adjustments into the '+' or '-'. This will let you selectively increase or decrease the sensitivity as needed.

The third adjustment is the Program Shift. This won't change the exposure of the shot, but it will change the shutter and aperture combo used to get the shot. If you half-press and get a shutter of 1/1000 and an aperture of F3.5 for a properly exposed scene...you can adjust the P Shift by simply rotating the front thumbwheel (on the screen you'll see a little '*' next to the P), and the camera will hold the exposure, but adjust the aperture smaller and the shutter slower, each counteracting the other by the same number of stops. In other words, if the aperture goes to 4, the shutter will drop to 1/500 in order to hold the same exposure. This allows you to ensure you get a faster shutter speed if you need it, or control a shallower or deeper depth of field as needed.

The next adjustment is a bigger one - the Fn button just above the 4-way selector pad on the back. This Fn button will pull up a 6-button grid on your LCD screen, allowing you to use the 4-way joystick pad to move around to any of the 6 selections, and press the center button to adjust that setting. Your choices are: Flash Mode, Autofocus Mode, White Balance, Metering Mode, AF Area Mode, and D-Range Optimizer. Flash mode is where you can adjust for slow synch, red eye, etc. Autofocus mode is where you can choose Continuous, Single focus, or Auto (chooses between the two as needed). White balance is the same as on your H2. Metering mode allows you to choose Multi-segment, Spot, or Center weighted metering. AF Area mode allows you to chooce multi-segment focus area, wide focus area, or center weighted focus area. D-range optimizer you don't need to worry about - it adjusts minor sensitivity to dynamic range with regard to shadows in high contrast scenes.

This is all easier than it looks - the little 4-way controller can be scrolled up, down, left or right to the 6 choices, then the center button clicked to enter that mode. Once entered, your choices will pop up on screen, where you just scroll down and select what you want (similar to the H2). Pressing the Fn button, Menu button, or half-pressing the shutter, will all pop you out of this menu and back to ready to shoot.

The Menu button is something you really only need to enter when you are changing camera set up - such as the resolution mode (10mp, 7mp, 5mp, etc) you are shooting in, whether you prefer RAW or JPG shooting, and adjusting the creative styles like sharpness, contrast, color, and saturation if you find the photos need more or less of one of those things.

That should get you off the ground. As you grow more confident, you can start using A or S priority modes, and just use the thumbwheel at the front to set the shutter or aperture as needed depending on what priority mode you are in...the camera will select the other parameter, focus, and ISO unless you tell it otherwise.

In M mode, the only thing you need to know is how to adjust both the Aperture and the Shutter, since there is only one thumbwheel for both settings. This is pretty easy too - one of these two will be adjusted by simply turning the front jog wheel - usually Shutter speed is the default. In order to adjust the Aperture instead, you press and hold the '+/-' button and scroll the front jog wheel. This will now be adjusting the aperture. The scroll wheel on front controls both shutter and aperture - one by pressing no other buttons, and the other by holding down the +/- button.

Hope all that helps!

 

[Disney*Dreamer]

WOW! Thank you SO much! I really appreciate you typing out all of that. I copyed and saved it to my desktop. I really need to get all that figured out. I know what I am going to be doing today. Thanks thanks thanks thanks.

Sure...here's the very basics:

If you go to 'P' mode, which will be the same as it was on your H2...that will give you basically auto everything, but with the ability to make some settings changes to customize a bit.

The first adjustment is the ISO - but you found that one. It is obvious!

The second adjustment would be the EV, or exposure value, which you can adjust up or down by a stop or two. This is a small button on the back top of the camera with a +/- on it. If you press and hold this button, and turn the thumbwheel, you will see the EV scale on the LCD screen showing your adjustments into the '+' or '-'. This will let you selectively increase or decrease the sensitivity as needed.

The third adjustment is the Program Shift. This won't change the exposure of the shot, but it will change the shutter and aperture combo used to get the shot. If you half-press and get a shutter of 1/1000 and an aperture of F3.5 for a properly exposed scene...you can adjust the P Shift by simply rotating the front thumbwheel (on the screen you'll see a little '*' next to the P), and the camera will hold the exposure, but adjust the aperture smaller and the shutter slower, each counteracting the other by the same number of stops. In other words, if the aperture goes to 4, the shutter will drop to 1/500 in order to hold the same exposure. This allows you to ensure you get a faster shutter speed if you need it, or control a shallower or deeper depth of field as needed.

The next adjustment is a bigger one - the Fn button just above the 4-way selector pad on the back. This Fn button will pull up a 6-button grid on your LCD screen, allowing you to use the 4-way joystick pad to move around to any of the 6 selections, and press the center button to adjust that setting. Your choices are: Flash Mode, Autofocus Mode, White Balance, Metering Mode, AF Area Mode, and D-Range Optimizer. Flash mode is where you can adjust for slow synch, red eye, etc. Autofocus mode is where you can choose Continuous, Single focus, or Auto (chooses between the two as needed). White balance is the same as on your H2. Metering mode allows you to choose Multi-segment, Spot, or Center weighted metering. AF Area mode allows you to chooce multi-segment focus area, wide focus area, or center weighted focus area. D-range optimizer you don't need to worry about - it adjusts minor sensitivity to dynamic range with regard to shadows in high contrast scenes.

This is all easier than it looks - the little 4-way controller can be scrolled up, down, left or right to the 6 choices, then the center button clicked to enter that mode. Once entered, your choices will pop up on screen, where you just scroll down and select what you want (similar to the H2). Pressing the Fn button, Menu button, or half-pressing the shutter, will all pop you out of this menu and back to ready to shoot.

The Menu button is something you really only need to enter when you are changing camera set up - such as the resolution mode (10mp, 7mp, 5mp, etc) you are shooting in, whether you prefer RAW or JPG shooting, and adjusting the creative styles like sharpness, contrast, color, and saturation if you find the photos need more or less of one of those things.

That should get you off the ground. As you grow more confident, you can start using A or S priority modes, and just use the thumbwheel at the front to set the shutter or aperture as needed depending on what priority mode you are in...the camera will select the other parameter, focus, and ISO unless you tell it otherwise.

In M mode, the only thing you need to know is how to adjust both the Aperture and the Shutter, since there is only one thumbwheel for both settings. This is pretty easy too - one of these two will be adjusted by simply turning the front jog wheel - usually Shutter speed is the default. In order to adjust the Aperture instead, you press and hold the '+/-' button and scroll the front jog wheel. This will now be adjusting the aperture. The scroll wheel on front controls both shutter and aperture - one by pressing no other buttons, and the other by holding down the +/- button.

Hope all that helps!

 

[WillCAD]

I won't go into any detailed photographic advice, since I think Justin covered the basics quite well, but I'll say this - if you didn't buy that camera to take pics of the biggest, best, most important photo op of your year (your WDW vacation), why did you bother spending the money?

A camera is a useless millstone if it's not with you, out of the bag, ready to take pics when the photo ops present themselves. Take the camera to WDW, and take it to the parks with you every day (and Downtown Disney and your resort meals and everywhere else). Keep it on a strap, not in a bag, and keep a memory card and fresh batteries in it at all times. Carrying a spare memory card and battery is also a good idea.

As to your comment, "the only pics I will want are of my kids", well, I think you'll find that with a DSLR, your opinion might change. You'll start re-taking pics that you've taken many times in the past, but with your new camera. And you'll definitely want to use the GOOD camera to take those kid pics, right?

 

[hea]

I recommend
1. Buy Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson, excellent introductory book
2. Read the manual

 

[polkadotminnie]

I got the Sony A300 for Christmas and took it to Disney in early February. I took the kit lens and one zoom lens with me. I had never used anything other than a point and shoot. I had the best time playing around with the camera. Granted, I was by myself for 4 hours at EPCOT and I did not have a stroller or small kids with me. But it sounds as if you have a lot more knowledge of exposure than I did so you will learn this camera quickly. I got some wonderful shots.
This past week I bought A book called: Sony a DSLR A350/A300 by: David Busch. It has helped me tremendously. It was much easier to understand than the manual itself. It was also a fairly quick read. I hope that helps.