My two cents on digital cameras

[Kelly Grannell]

Corrections:

1. the F828 is 7MP when using 3:2 ratio (not 6MP as I alluded before) with with 8.8mm x 6.6mm sensor

2. Digital noise/grain of the F828 at ISO 64 is equivalent to Canon 300D ISO 800
(see comparion here: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydscf828/page14.asp )

As a comparison, a Canon 300D/Rebel Digital is 6.3MP with 22.7 mm x 15.1 mm

On the other hand, the Sony is made of Magnesium Alloy whereas the Canon is only made of plastic with metal innards.

WRT the ISO... what does it mean? You can take pics of Spectro without using tripod, you can take pics of Osborne Lights without using tripod, you can take pics of IASW without using flash for a better and more natural look.

 

[Ducky4Disney]

This is a great thread, I think people are learning a lot! Sensor sizes are a little beyond me, I haven't progress that far - yet!

Printers - they are making leaps and bouds with these, but if you want to print photos, get a photo printer! Photo printers are not meant to print documents, and document printers are not meant to print photos.

Look fat the resolution in DPI (dots per inch) and the droplet size (in picoliters). Also look at how many ink tanks there are and what colors there are. Black, magenta, cyan, and yellow are the standard colors. I am a Canon person myself, and their photo printers also have a photo magenta and photo cyan. I really want the Pixma i8500, which also has red and green inks! More ink colors mean better blending and more shades of color. They should all be in separate tanks, that way you only replace the color thats empty, not all of them!

D4D

 

[Disnurse2B]

I forgot to add that, in addition to printing my own photos off the hp, I use shutterfly.com. You can just upload your photos to their website and pick the prints you want. They are super cheap and delivered to your door within a couple of days. Great quality. You can also share them over the web with friends and family. As far as how long the ink cartridges last...hmmm, hard to say. They seem to last quite awhile for me. I would say I can get at least 100 4x6 photos off one. Nut, when you replace them (at least on my printer) you have to replace 3 cartridges. Color, Black. and a photo cartridge. It is pretty pricey. But the convenience of being able to print nice photos while in the comfort of my own home is worth it. BTW, tungsten is like lamplight. I rarely adjust the white balance. I find my pics are better if I just set to auto. The only exception is in really bright light like beach or snow.

 

[Steamboat_willie_2]

For any serious amateurs, I found a great site for professional quality enlargements.

White House Custom color ( http://whcc.com/ ) offers excellent color control and very reaonable rates.

I have had them do 16x20 enlargements with excellent results at a cost of only 12.75

 

[dkrause716]

What a great thread! I have learned so much. I bought a Fuji E550 a few months ago. Takes good pics but I really need to practice and try it out at all settings before our trip in 9 days.

Does the WL have a computer center where I could upload my pics if I need to?

Anyone know?

 

[Cyllwynn]

Corrections:

1. the F828 is 7MP when using 3:2 ratio (not 6MP as I alluded before) with with 8.8mm x 6.6mm sensor

2. Digital noise/grain of the F828 at ISO 64 is equivalent to Canon 300D ISO 800

As a comparison, a Canon 300D/Rebel Digital is 6.3MP with 22.7 mm x 15.1 mm

On the other hand, the Sony is made of Magnesium Alloy whereas the Canon is only made of plastic with metal innards.

WRT the ISO... what does it mean? You can take pics of Spectro without using tripod, you can take pics of Osborne Lights without using tripod, you can take pics of IASW without using flash for a better and more natural look.

Heya, I stumbled into this thread by accident. I just wanted to add a couple notes to the discussion.

It is fine and well to talk about noise level comparisons and, but it is very difficult to compare a fixed lens point and shoot camera to a Digital SLR camera system. Too many factors are fundamentally different between the two cameras. Which lenses are you using in the 300? Is start up time an issue for you? How bout burst rates or write times to 80x pro cards?

I personally just would not compare them. The Sony is a one shot deal, you buy it and that’s it. The 300D is an entire camera system that requires a substantial investment in gear and lenses. As far as noise goes though I have no practical knowledge of the 300D, but the 350D XT is amazingly noise free at 800 ISO and produces totally usable pictures at 1600 ISO.

On a different note, the whole issue of printers and photo labs is obviously a hotly debated topic. But I just wanted to add that when you get into the true high-end printers like the Epson R2400 or better than there is no longer an issue of comparison. The prints produced by am R2400 are so much better than any minilab that it is laughable. People will always be able to tell the two apart because the lab prints are so notably worse.

 

[Kelly Grannell]

The 300D is an entire camera system that requires a substantial investment in gear and lenses.

Not necessarily. If you want to make it more of an apple-to-apple comparison, just get a Sigma 18-200mm lens for the 300D (now replaced with 350D/RebelXT). The difference is now with a dSLR you will have the choice to upgrade to a better lens, accessories etc... but you don't have to. Whereas with the Sony, albeit a very good camera, it "comes" with high ISO noise and the inability for one to upgrade to a better lens, flash etc should one choose to do so in the future.

 

[Cyllwynn]

Ya my point was that it seems odd to compare a point and shoot camera to a digital SLR camera system. They are two different beasts. Also of course when you upgrade the 350D you keep all the lenses that you have accumulated, allowing you to only have to familiarize yourself with a new camera body and not the lenses as well.

I have no experience with any Sigma lens, as I only own and shoot with Canon L series lenses.

 

[purplern]

I have a Canon Powershot A40. Love it! Love this thread. Always looking for good hints and tips!!

 

[Dznefreek]

When taking pictures:

1 - Hold your breath as you push the shutter.
2 - Fill the frame with as much of your subject as possible.
3 - Always try to shoot with the sun at your back, if not possible use "backlit" option.
4 - Use a flash if your subject has excessive shadows or dark spots.
5 - Look for interesting angles and objects.
6 - Don't be afraid to shoot in black and white. Often a pic of the ToT looks better in b&w than color.

 

[BeadyLady]

On a different note, the whole issue of printers and photo labs is obviously a hotly debated topic. But I just wanted to add that when you get into the true high-end printers like the Epson R2400 or better than there is no longer an issue of comparison. The prints produced by am R2400 are so much better than any minilab that it is laughable. People will always be able to tell the two apart because the lab prints are so notably worse.

But if you have to use an on-line lab - which would you choose? I've used both Shutterfly and SnapFish. Recent wedding, in short time, has keep me busy so I've not been reading enough threads. Did I mention we're waiting for the Baby?!
Thanks!

 

[Cyllwynn]

But if you have to use an on-line lab - which would you choose? I've used both Shutterfly and SnapFish. Recent wedding, in short time, has keep me busy so I've not been reading enough threads. Did I mention we're waiting for the Baby?!
Thanks!

Snapfish and Mpix consistantly get the best reviews.

There is a long review and comparison done recently at macworld online under features called "turn pixels into prints".

 

[Kelly Grannell]

Ya my point was that it seems odd to compare a point and shoot camera to a digital SLR camera system. They are two different beasts. Also of course when you upgrade the 350D you keep all the lenses that you have accumulated, allowing you to only have to familiarize yourself with a new camera body and not the lenses as well.

I have no experience with any Sigma lens, as I only own and shoot with Canon L series lenses.

The comparison is between price range. The (now) Sony F828 is essentially at the same price of a (now) Rebel XT with kit lens. Considering they are at the same price, it's only logical (especially considering the enormous size of the F828) to buy the Rebel XT with kit lens (which WILL yield MUCH better results than the F828, even using kit lens and green mode).

Also to shoot dSLR, L series means absolutely nothing. Don't get me wrong, I personally use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS as my walkaround lens and nothing can beat that lens. However, my Sigma 18-125 at 24-70 range (the same as my 24-70L) is not that much weaker to warrant a 200% difference in price.

L lens, non-L lens, Canon, non-Canon, it's always a gamble when you buy a lens for pictures blown up to 20" x 30" (which I do a lot for a living). For 4"x6" prints, however, not so much. Even an okay-copy of Sigma 18-200, or better yet, 18-125 is more than enough for most users, especially the ones who are just starting and not have a stackloads of cash to buy L-series lens.

Good thing I'm woman. If I'm a man and carrying my 70-200 F/2.8L IS I'll be accused of over compensating

 

[Cyllwynn]

Look, I am sorry. I was not trying to start some pissing contest with you. My point was only that if you are in the $1000 price range then you real decision to make is “point and shoot” or “SLR”. The SLR will almost always be better than the point and shoot of course. Even using some crappy grey market version of a Sigma lens.

You loose me when you start in with:

Also to shoot dSLR, L series means absolutely nothing. Don't get me wrong, I personally use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS as my walkaround lens and nothing can beat that lens. However, my Sigma 18-125 at 24-70 range (the same as my 24-70L) is not that much weaker to warrant a 200% difference in price.

I did not recomend that everyone run out and buy only L series lenses. Simply that I did not use sigma.

The 18-125 is a f/3.5-5.6. and costs ~$250. The EF 24-70 is a f/2.8 lens across the board, and has two Aspherical elements and a totally new UD glass element and is of course contains a USM. It also carries a price tag of $1200 and is considered one of the finest lenses to use with a 1DS Mark II.

Are you one of those people that claim there is no difference between a Toyota and a Lexus?

I personally use the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L and the EF 24-70 f2.8 most often while walking around, and for work I use the EF 300 f2.8 L. I find it is not a gamble at all to achieve ea 20x30 image with these lenses on the 1DS Mark II. But I do wish I knew that Sigma was suddenly comparable to them, I could have saved about $7,000…lol

I appreciate your opinions and comments, I am not sure the papers that buy my photos every week would agree with you though, but to each their own.

We are now terribly off topic and all I indeed to point out was that for $1000 I would go with the SLR for the longer term investment, and invest in it seriously so that it gives you the highest return possible.

 

[Ronda93]

Ooooh, let's talk about white balance. Someone asked:

Can someone please explain white balance? Does this have something to do with the flash?

Difference sources create different light. Sunlight and flash are really kind of bluish. The lamp in the living room makes a yellow glow. Our brains compensate for this, but film and sensors cannot.

If you're inside in the evening and don't want to use the flash you choose tungsten (it's the material the a lightbulb's filament is made from). The colors will look "balanced". If they look really yellow it's because the camera is set to day/sunlight. On the flip side, set the camera to tungsten and take an outdoor shot - everything will look blue.

There's often a fluorescent choice, too.

Most of the time people leave it on daylight. This works until the flash is turned off inside and the orangy-yellow shows up.

As with all settings, play with it. See how it affects your photos and use it to your advantage.

 

[mickeysaver]

We are looking to purchase a digital before we go to WDW, at least that is what I hope that we can do. I have learned a lot from this thread. Thanks! Maggie

 

[purplern]

I have a question!

The black and white and sepia mode-when would you use it? What type of pictures look best in them?

Thanks

 

[crow11ad]

I have a question!

The black and white and sepia mode-when would you use it? What type of pictures look best in them?

Thanks

I have used the b/w when taken pictures of the haunted mansion. Same with the sepia mode. The tomb stones look cool with that mode...

 

[mello]

Thanks for the info on MyPublisher - I think we may have to try it out after our upcoming trip!

I'll add my .02 on digital cameras. I agree that digital zooms are basically a useless marketing device - don't base your camera buying decision on how big a digital zoom it has; look at the optical zoom instead. I would also say that for most people who will be printing up to 5x7 pics or using them on their computers, there is no real need to go beyond about 5 megapixels. More mp's are nice, but not necessary for normal size pictures. But, I think the difference between 3 mps and 5 mps is noticeable in average 4x6 pictures.

Also, once you've taken your pictures, have fun playing around with them! You can make any color picture into a sepia or b&w by lowering the saturation (taking out the color). You can get some really neat effects doing that and playing around with contrast, brightness, etc. And you can "digital zoom" your pics by cutting out unwanted things and enlarging whatever it is you want to focus on.

Looking forward to more tips!

 

[WillCAD]

I have a question!

The black and white and sepia mode-when would you use it? What type of pictures look best in them?

Thanks

Truthfully, I never use those special modes in my camera.

I take all of my pics in full color, then use a photo editing program to change them to B/W or sepia or whatever.

Taking pics in color also lets you do cool stuff like turning most of the pic black and white but leaving one thing (a person, a bouquet, whatever) in full color.