Mickey light post directions

[njcamper95]

you might find one in homedepo or lowes other wise you may have to build something yourself good luck
if you decide to build it yourself yo maybe able to use a piece of pvc pipe maybe around 1" then use either a rubber ball or wood ball for the ends just a tought as i said good luck

 

[Shan-man]

Well, I am 95% done with the most complicated Mickey lamp post ever devised! I just painted the pole tonight and finished the last bit of wiring. What makes it so complicated you ask? I decided I wanted three bulbs: one 100w in the head, and one 40w in each ear. To get the bulbs in the ears I needed a flexible shaft to mount the bulb sockets to, so they could be bent into the ears. I used a couple of microphone goosenecks. With them bent into proper position they won't fit through the neck of the globe, so I needed a way to swivel the goosenecks 90 degrees to the rear so their bends compliment and they fit in, and then a way to swivel them back once inside. It was quite a bit of engineering and woodworking (yes, woodworking for a Mickey lamp!) but it is working! I love the uniform glow from the three bulbs. Tomorrow, once the paint is dry, I will mount the base into a flower pot and call it done. I will post finished photos soon. I also finished up my Mickey rope-light hoop thingy, whatchamacallit! I'll post pics of it too.

 

[DznyRulz]

This I gotta see. I can't wait.

 

[njcamper95]

sounds great but we need pics

 

[Shan-man]

Unfortunately, I am no further along than last post regarding the Mickey Lamp Post. I promise to post as soon as it is ready for prime time. I did however get a pic of my finished Mickey Rope Light thingy.

This was made using one 9' piece of 3/4" PEX, 2 4.5' pieces of 3/4" PEX, three couplers to join the PEX into loops, one 18' rope light (candy cane colors from Wal*Mart), two pipe clamps to hold the ears on, and about a thousand cable zip ties to hold the rope to the PEX armatures. I would only use this method if you already have a PEX crimp tool, but I think it turned out nice. The ears even have a slightly oblong shape like a real Mickey.

 

[2goofycampers]

OOOOOOOOH AAAAAAAAH.

 

[DznyRulz]

That looks great. I love it.

 

[LarryJ]

Well, I am 95% done with the most complicated Mickey lamp post ever devised! I just painted the pole tonight and finished the last bit of wiring. What makes it so complicated you ask? I decided I wanted three bulbs: one 100w in the head, and one 40w in each ear. To get the bulbs in the ears I needed a flexible shaft to mount the bulb sockets to, so they could be bent into the ears. I used a couple of microphone goosenecks. With them bent into proper position they won't fit through the neck of the globe, so I needed a way to swivel the goosenecks 90 degrees to the rear so their bends compliment and they fit in, and then a way to swivel them back once inside. It was quite a bit of engineering and woodworking (yes, woodworking for a Mickey lamp!) but it is working! I love the uniform glow from the three bulbs. Tomorrow, once the paint is dry, I will mount the base into a flower pot and call it done. I will post finished photos soon. I also finished up my Mickey rope-light hoop thingy, whatchamacallit! I'll post pics of it too.

Like you I would want three bulbs and while I haven't started, I'm thinking of a 12" with a lip and two 6" with a threaded bottom to screw into the head. That way I could easily change the bulbs in each ear. HERE is a place that sells the threaded globes and with a large O-ring around the base of each ear it should make the ears somewhat water resistant. I'll have to be real careful cutting the holes in the head so the ears will screw into the head, but I think it's doable and if I mess up I can always use what I have and go the more traditional way.

I'm still planning and trying to decide how I want to make mine. I like the X-mas stand for a base and since it's that time of year I will be on the look out for one that is hopefully black.


Larry

 

[Shan-man]

Ok, I still haven't gotten around to putting my flowerpot base on yet, but here are some pics of my current state. First, here is what the lamp looks like with three bulbs lighted. That is a 100w (comparable) CFL in the middle and two 45w (comparable) CFLs in the ears. I like the uniformity of illumination.

​

The post is a 3" PVC pipe, prepped with acetone and painted with Fusion metallic texture paint. The globes are a 12" and two 6" acrylic globes. The 12"er is neckless, which I do not recommend unless you are using a commercially made post that accepts it. The XRay view will make clearer why neckless is a problem, so here it is:

See that disc at the base of the globe? It has tapered edges and was meticulously fitted to wedge tightly into the opening in the globe, like a cork in a wine bottle. Then there is the problem of how to attach that disc to the top of a PVC pipe. How about another disc that will center the first on the pipe and help prevent tipping? That works, to an extent, but the head can still tip too much, so how about a little threaded lamp tubing and a second disc further down into the pipe? Yes, that is nice and sturdy!

To get light in the ears I needed arms to hold the sockets in the right location, so I thought goosenecks would be ideal. I bought a couple of microphone goosenecks (available at Marrs for $4 ea) and quickly realized that trying to insert the arms into the globe and then reaching inside to bend the arms was nearly impossible. So I needed some way to pre-bend the arms and still get them inside the globe... which I could do if the arms swiveled:

​

This image shows the two positions of the arms. With them swiveled to the rear (opaque image) the bulbs will fit through the neck of the large globe. With them swiveled to the side (ghosted) they fit up into the ears. As you can see in the XRay view above, the goosenecks are mounted to thick dowels which extend through the top discs and seat in the lower disc. This way, even with the globe nearly seated (i.e. no way to reach inside) I can still adjust the bulb orientation by manipulating the dowels.

There is a 1-1/2" hole near the base of the post to admit an extension cord. A Fernco coupler (rubber sleeve and pipe clamps) joins the post to a toilet flange, and the flange in turn allows the lamp to be screwed down to a larger base (in my case, a flowerpot).

So, that is why I lay claim to having the "most complicated Mickey Lamp ever conceived"! I am flirting with making things even more complicated by adding a photo sensor and a site sign. But that is for later. I will post more pics once I get the lamp "potted" and get some poinsettias to fill the top of the pot.

 

[2goofycampers]

Great job Shan. The talent of you and others on this board in all areas never ceases to amaze me.

 

[DznyRulz]

I'm stumped. How did you get that xray view? That's a neat picture.

 

[Shan-man]

I'm stumped. How did you get that xray view? That's a neat picture.

Take a look at my tag, Photoshop-it-eer! It is multiple shots combined to create the transparency and a little channel-mixing to make it look like an XRay. In other words, I was bored and played a bit! LOL

 

[RvUsa]

Shan, that is without a doubt the most awesome and confusing mickey lamp post I have ever seen. LOL

Shan you never cease to amaze me brother. You probably spent more time on the "xray" than I did on my lamp.

On another note, I have this idea on how I can convert my golf cart to run on mouse dropping while emitting otter bait, think you could whip me up some plans?


LOL, just busting on ya man, that thing is cool, I thought I was cool using a fernco, but you are the new king of cool....

 

[bgula]

That thing has got to be bright! When I did mine, I used a Y-adapter so that each bulb is basically just sitting at the entrance of the ears. It gives it a very uniform light thruout. Probably cost about $1.50 at HD. Used 2 100W equivalent CFL's, but I nearly blinded the neighbourhood, so I backed off to 2 60W. It's still bright, but no complaints from the neighbours yet.

As for the base, I just used a toilet flange screwed onto a patio stone. My 3-inch pole fits snugly into it and I put 1 bolt thru it so it's not going to move. The patio stone itself probably weighs 30 pounds, so it's not going to move or tip.

 

[Shan-man]

It doesn't seem too bright, not enough to elicit complaints... I don't think. Though I haven't yet seen it in a pitch black campground either. The CFLs don't really put out a lot of light. Oh, one thing I failed to mention is that I was careful to get all three bulbs with the same color temperature: these are "daylight" bulbs, 6500K. Sure didn't want a cool head and warm ears!

I'm curious how you get the CFLs and Y adapter through the neck of the globe. That was my main difficulty, since the ears are much further apart than the width of the neck.

I have discovered an easier way to get light in the ears, but I had already invested in the goosenecks and was going to make them work or bust!

 

[bgula]

Wasn't too bad. Screw 1 bulb in, leave the other out, then once the assembly was thru the hole, maneuver the other bulb and my hand into the hole and screw the other bulb in.

The only problem with my light is that there is no neck on the large globe, so I had to silicone it onto the PVC pipe holder, so if I need to change a light or lights, then I have to cut it off and then re-silicone. I bought a couple of the LED color changer lights which I'd love to try, but can't be bothered right now to play around with re-siliconing.

 

[clkelley]

and with a large O-ring around the base
Larry

Where would one look for a large O-ring. Mine could probably use one where the base of the head and the light fixture meets.

Thanks!

 

[disbugsmomma]

Try a plumbing supply store for O-rings.

 

[Shan-man]

Ok, I promised a pic of the finished lamp...

I like the rustic look of the old feed bucket full of poinsettias. I was just going to bolt the base to the bucket, but I wasn't satisfied with the stability, so I cut a larger plywood base and set the bottomless bucket on top of it. I will paint the ply disc black. One nice thing about using the fernco coupler at the base of the pole is you can correct for unlevel ground. I am still working on the sign that will go on the post, so once I get that done and the base painted I will post a final final pic. I better get busy... time is short!

 

[VACAMPER]

very cool, good job Shan!