Making offer on resale

[adventure_woman]

Can someone tell me what is usually an appropriate offer to make (and not offensive to be ignored?).

I have looked at the ROFR, so I can get an idea of the price per point that is average.

For the maintenance fees - what is typical? If there are still points to use in the UY, I would think it is typical for the buyer to pay that - is that a correct assumption?

Closing costs - does the buyer usually pay for all of that? How about administrative fees if any?

Any other resale costs that I should be aware of?

 

[disneynutz]

What does your broker say, they are suppose to be the experts?

Bill

 

[chukdotcom]

Can someone tell me what is usually an appropriate offer to make (and not offensive to be ignored?).

I have looked at the ROFR, so I can get an idea of the price per point that is average.

For the maintenance fees - what is typical? If there are still points to use in the UY, I would think it is typical for the buyer to pay that - is that a correct assumption?

Closing costs - does the buyer usually pay for all of that? How about administrative fees if any?

Any other resale costs that I should be aware of?

1) Look at the ROFR post
2) What resort?

 

[adventure_woman]

I haven't contacted one yet - I am currently just researching and trying to understand everything. I have looked at the different resale sites recommended/mentioned here on the DISBoards. If there are others someone recommends, please let me know/PM me! =)

 

[adventure_woman]

We are interested in AKV, around 200 points.

 

[Msmithmd]

It really depends on whether you want a quick and easy deal or the cheapest deal.

If you want a quick deal, pick one with points and UY that matches your needs and offer full asking price or maybe a couple dollars less.

If you want the cheapest deal, review the ROFR thread and offer the running average of what people are reporting passing there, or even less.

Many sellers will say no. Some will counter. One eventually will say yes. Then DVC might say no and take it back.

Thus, the cheapest deal isn't for the faint of heart or for the buyer in a hurry, and you should expect to work for it.

Personally I found an excellent, attractively priced resale contract, and I paid full asking price. It passed ROFR, and the rest is history.

So maybe I could have "saved" $5 a point more if I had wanted to work harder. For me, it was simply wanting the DVC product, and not being comfortable paying the direct prices.

You can save a ton of money without putting in a lot of effort, if you're willing to accept that "great can be the enemy of good" in pricing offers. Or you can try to set a new annual low on the ROFR thread. I know which I would choose; you must decide which strategy is right for you.

 

[finchy3]

It really depends on whether you want a quick and easy deal or the cheapest deal. If you want a quick deal, pick one with points and UY that matches your needs and offer full asking price or maybe a couple dollars less. If you want the cheapest deal, review the ROFR thread and offer the running average of what people are reporting passing there, or even less. Many sellers will say no. Some will counter. One eventually will say yes. Then DVC might say no and take it back. Thus, the cheapest deal isn't for the faint of heart or for the buyer in a hurry, and you should expect to work for it. Personally I found an excellent, attractively priced resale contract, and I paid full asking price. It passed ROFR, and the rest is history. So maybe I could have "saved" $5 a point more if I had wanted to work harder. For me, it was simply wanting the DVC product, and not being comfortable paying the direct prices. You can save a ton of money without putting in a lot of effort, if you're willing to accept that "great can be the enemy of good" in pricing offers. Or you can try to set a new annual low on the ROFR thread. I know which I would choose; you must decide which strategy is right for you.

Sound advice!
Thank you.

 

[Dean]

Can someone tell me what is usually an appropriate offer to make (and not offensive to be ignored?).

I have looked at the ROFR, so I can get an idea of the price per point that is average.

For the maintenance fees - what is typical? If there are still points to use in the UY, I would think it is typical for the buyer to pay that - is that a correct assumption?

Closing costs - does the buyer usually pay for all of that? How about administrative fees if any?

Any other resale costs that I should be aware of?

Unless it's a smaller and very loaded contract, you should be able to get a decent contract for under $70 a point and I expect that price to come down over the next year or 2 far faster than simply due to erosion of the RTU remaining, esp for around 200. Getting a fully loaded contract where you can actually use the points may be your best bet in most situation even if you get a slightly smaller contract. But I agree it may not be worth putting a LOT more effort into for some to get the best deal.

What does your broker say, they are suppose to be the experts?

Bill

given that all the brokers I know of get it wrong, that would give you a skewed view of what one is getting and not getting. The neutral position is to pay the rest of the calendar year OR from the start of the UY for the rest of the year (lessor of the 2) assuming this calendar years points are available. All the brokers that specialize in DVC take the incorrect stance that you pay the dues, you get the points. Now I realize that if you're going to deal with them that puts you in an uphill situation so it's likely best to just realize you're going to overpay on fees in many situations and roll those extra costs into one's thinking elsewhere looking at the overall package. Maybe putting the effort into getting a slightly better deal on the purchase price.

 

[Nabas]

Median resale price at AKV has been about $76/point.

There are numerous factors that can affect the price, most commonly how many points are available in the current year, size of contract, who's paying current year's Maintenance Fee, and who's paying closing cost. However, the $76/point should give you a ballpark idea.

 

[HokieGCC]

If it is a 25 or 50 point contract in BC, BWV, BLT, or Wilderness you have to pretty much be the first in line to take what is being offered. These go fast and for the most part are gone before they are advertised.

Once you get to the really big contracts I think you can find one that can be negotiated. You can imagine if you are holding 300 points that you don't want anymore that is $20K in cash with $2K/year fees that would be worth negotiating just to get out from under it.

 

[kenspidey]

If it is a 25 or 50 point contract in BC, BWV, BLT, or Wilderness you have to pretty much be the first in line to take what is being offered. These go fast and for the most part are gone before they are advertised. Once you get to the really big contracts I think you can find one that can be negotiated. You can imagine if you are holding 300 points that you don't want anymore that is $20K in cash with $2K/year fees that would be worth negotiating just to get out from under it.

That's why I love small contracts. I own 350 points in 4 contracts. All different resorts and same use year. If I want to dump one or two or all it will be pretty easy.

 

[Dean]

That's why I love small contracts. I own 350 points in 4 contracts. All different resorts and same use year. If I want to dump one or two or all it will be pretty easy.

Unless one bought as a combined package or retail add ons in the past, getting to the point of small contracts currently is MUCH more expensive and rarely a reasonable option buying in. You've either got to pay a lot more pp resale AND multiple closings or you've got to pay more buying retail. Basically one would be paying for sales insurance and it's a very expensive insurance, given that it's unreasonable to buy in planning to sell later, I doubt it's worth it as a buy in option for anyone. Rarely you can find someone selling multiple contracts that are listed together but this is hit or miss at best. Certainly if one is going to buy retail, it's an option though I think for VGF and for Aulani, the fixed week option has more real value than the smaller contract option for most people.