from today's Newsday:
If it's Hanukkah, it's latkes & doughnuts
BY BEVERLY LEVITT
Special to Newsday
December 13, 2006
A few Hanukkahs ago, cookbook author Mollie Katzen politely "sautéed" latkes for her family in a desperate attempt to make them lower in fat.
Low-fat latkes? Isn't that an oxymoron?
"They were downright depressing," she lamented recently. "Starchy, soggy and greasy." Katzen said she remembered latkes that were whisper thin and wildly crisp. "I wanted to see pieces of dark golden-brown potato, almost overcooked and I wanted to taste fried potato and onion with a trace of salt. Ummmmmm ..."
Katzen finally had to concede, "There's no way to get a potato pancake perfectly crisp unless you fry it. And, if it's not crisp, what's the point?"
During Hanukkah, this year celebrated Dec. 15-22, Jews eat fried foods to celebrate the Miracle of the Oil, because 2,000 years ago one tiny cask of oil, just enough to burn for one day, magically stayed lit for eight.
So how does Katzen, a healthy food proponent, make this beloved fried dish every year at Hanukkah knowing the fatty hazards of frying?
She just urges moderation.
"We don't eat latkes for their nutritional properties. They're fun to make; they're delicious, but don't try to turn them into something they're not," she says. "Eat them, enjoy them; just don't gorge on them."
To make your latke-fry a bit more healthful, Katzen emphasizes using the proper oil. "Because oils degrade at different temperatures, it's critical to use those that are refined for high heat such as avocado oil, almond oil, safflower oil and sunflower oil.
"The hotter the oil, the more likely the latkes will be light and crisp instead of heavy and soggy," says Katzen.
MOLLIE'S ULTIMATE POTATO LATKES
This recipe is adapted from "Mollie Katzen's Sunlight Café." For a delicious variation, replace up to half the potato with grated sweet potato. Potatoes may be peeled, partially peeled or left intact. The batter lasts for several days if kept in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. Leftover potato pancakes can be reheated in an ungreased, preheated skillet over medium heat.
1 1/2 pounds potatoes (any kind)
1 medium onion
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour or rice flour
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs, beaten
High-oleic safflower oil for frying
Optional toppings:
Sour cream or thick yogurt
Applesauce
Fruit compote
1. Use a hand grater - or the fine grating attachment of a food processor - to grate the potatoes and onion together.
2. Transfer the grated vegetables to a medium-sized bowl, and sprinkle in the flour and salt. Add eggs and stir until thoroughly combined.
3. Place a large, deep skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Add enough oil to make a 1/8-inch-deep pool in the pan. Wait another minute or two to heat the oil. When the oil is hot enough to instantly sizzle a bread crumb, use a quarter-cup measure with a handle or a large spoon to scoop batter into the pan. Go slowly, so you don't splash hot oil. Spread each pancake out so it is very thin.
4. Fry the pancakes on each side for 7 or 8 minutes, or until deep golden and crisp all over.
5. Line a platter with a triple thickness of paper towels. Remove the pancakes from the pan using a slotted metal spatula. Hold each over the pan for a moment to drain off any excess oil. Place pancakes in a single layer on the prepared platter for a few minutes before serving. There should be plenty of oil left in the pan to fry the remaining batter. If the oil smokes, discard it and start over with new oil.
6. Serve hot or warm, with sour cream or thick yogurt, applesauce or fruit compote. Makes 12 to 14 medium-size latkes.
Copyright 2006 Newsday Inc.
VARIATION ON POTATOES
BY BETH J. HARPAZ
THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
December 13, 2006
Here are two variations on fried latkes - ricotta latkes and zucchini latkes - in which the potato no longer has the starring role.
RICOTTA LATKES
This recipe is from Gloria Kaufer Greene's "The New Jewish Holiday Cookbook" (Crown, $29.95).
15- or 16-ounce container part-skim ricotta cheese
4 large eggs (or 1 cup egg substitute)
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 to 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Butter, margarine or canola oil (for frying)
Jam, applesauce, plain or vanilla yogurt, and/or chopped fresh fruit
1. In a food processor fitted with a chopping blade (or in a blender, in batches), combine the ricotta cheese, eggs, sugar and vanilla. Process until just combined. Add the melted butter and process briefly to mix.
2. Add the flour and process, stopping several times to scrape down the sides, until the batter is smooth and resembles thick cream. The batter will be thinner than most pancake batters.
3. Preheat a nonstick griddle or skillet over medium heat. Use the butter, margarine or canola oil to lightly coat the griddle. For each latke, spoon 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of batter onto the griddle. The batter will spread to form a 3-inch round. Space the latkes at least 1/2 inch apart.
4. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until a few bubbles have risen to the surface, the tops are beginning to look dry and the bottoms are golden brown. The latkes will not rise.
5. Use a spatula to carefully flip the latkes. Cook them briefly on the second side until golden brown. Repeat with remaining batter. Makes 30 latkes.
ZUCCHINI LATKES
This recipe is from Nechama Cohen's "Enlitened Kosher Cooking" (Feldheim Publishers, $39.95).
3 large zucchinis, peeled
1 medium potato, peeled
1 egg plus 2 egg whites, beaten
2 tablespoons soy or whole-wheat flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons canola oil, for frying
1. Using a hand grater or food processor, coarsely grate the zucchini and potato. Place the grated vegetables in a colander and squeeze well to drain. Transfer the grated vegetables to the center of a clean dish towel, wrap tightly and squeeze over the sink to remove more water.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the vegetables, eggs, flour, salt and pepper. Mix well.
3. Use your hands to form the batter into 12 patties. Set aside.
4. Coat a large skillet with cooking spray, then add the oil and heat over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot, fry the latkes, a few at a time, until golden brown on the bottoms and slightly firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and fry an additional
2 to 3 minutes, or until browned. Makes 12 servings.
Copyright 2006 Newsday Inc.
I'm a traditionalist (I love potatoes), but the ricotta ones sound intriguing.