Indoor photography advice

[BeenHereB4]

Hi all! Sorry to post another advice request. I'm reading, reading and reading these boards daily, but I'm still having issues with my indoor photos. Not sure if it's my lighting, my settings, my gear (or lack thereof )

Anyway, I'm shooting the D80, typically with my 50mm. I have only the flash on the camera and my tripod doesn't arrive until tomorrow. I also have an 18-135mm lens.

The pictures I want to take are typically when family comes over, my kids doing silly stuff, the poor dog who is so often the victim of my incessant practicing. I usually shoot Aperture priority and keep it wide open, but I still get grainy pictures or, of course, the shutter speed slows and I'm only doing hand held, so....

Should I be investing in a speed flash, or just be working on my skills? Any advice would be great. Hopefully I gave enough info here as to what I'm using.

Thanks in advance from a newb who's desperately trying!

 

[sdshutterbug]

What is the issue specifically - are the shots too dark or do they have motion blur? When I can, I like to use my flash indoors (it's a very basic Canon hot-shoe flash) which I bounce off the ceiling. Nikon makes a similar model to my Canon that has bounce capabilities which I believe runs for under $200. There is also a product called the LightScoop which is about $30 which goes on your hotshoe and bounces your pop-up flash. I've never used it but I was thinking of getting one before I got the flash. Tripod won't be useful if your subjects are moving, so if you don't plan on using a flash, my suggestion would be to raise the ISO as much as you can without degrading image quality.

 

[wenrob]

Hi all! Sorry to post another advice request. I'm reading, reading and reading these boards daily, but I'm still having issues with my indoor photos. Not sure if it's my lighting, my settings, my gear (or lack thereof )

Anyway, I'm shooting the D80, typically with my 50mm. I have only the flash on the camera and my tripod doesn't arrive until tomorrow. I also have an 18-135mm lens.

The pictures I want to take are typically when family comes over, my kids doing silly stuff, the poor dog who is so often the victim of my incessant practicing. I usually shoot Aperture priority and keep it wide open, but I still get grainy pictures or, of course, the shutter speed slows and I'm only doing hand held, so....

Should I be investing in a speed flash, or just be working on my skills? Any advice would be great. Hopefully I gave enough info here as to what I'm using.

Thanks in advance from a newb who's desperately trying!

When you say you're using wide open are you upping your ISO? Even with the wider apps you still have to crank your ISO to get enough light.

If you are you using the 18-135, especially if you are zooming your onboard flash will not be enough. If indoors of the kids is typical then a speed flash will be the right thing to get. You have to learn it of course but once you do, you'll be able to mix light like a pro.

Post some pics with your EXIF and we may be able to further "diagnose" for you.

 

[mabas9395]

Not sure about Nikons, but Av mode is for fill flash only on Canons. Put it in manual and you should see better results.

 

[BeenHereB4]

Ah crap! My ISO! I always forget to check that. It's been on 300 since who knows when.

Thank you for the advice. I'll give it another try and I do think I'll get the speedlight. I've been eyeing it for months but haven't bitten.

I'll post my results. Thank you!!

And about manual. I've been doing ok with that outdoors as well, but I really am a newbie and I don't trust myself to get all the settings right in manual mode yet.

 

[ukcatfan]

Ah crap! My ISO! I always forget to check that. It's been on 300 since who knows when.

A 300 ISO should not be noisy on your camera. It could be on a p&s, but not on a DSLR. I would believe something in the 3000 range would be noisy though.

 

[DizzyV6P]

Or throw it into P and be done with it

 

[alstonfered]

For indoor lower light colour shooting I like Konica VX400 and for B&W I like Ilford HP5+ (400 asa). The VX has good latitude and works well with mixed lighting. Don't use a filter but use a hood.

 

[ukcatfan]

For indoor lower light colour shooting I like Konica VX400 and for B&W I like Ilford HP5+ (400 asa). The VX has good latitude and works well with mixed lighting. Don't use a filter but use a hood.

The OP has a digital camera.

 

[wenrob]

Not sure about Nikons, but Av mode is for fill flash only on Canons. Put it in manual and you should see better results.

I tend to agree, it's the best way to utilize the flash and control the ambient light.

A 300 ISO should not be noisy on your camera. It could be on a p&s, but not on a DSLR. I would believe something in the 3000 range would be noisy though.

Any ISO will be grainy if she's under exposing though which it sounds like it might be the problem. If I remember correctly D80s are fairly noisy cameras to begin with.

Or throw it into P and be done with it

While I don't have an issue with someone choosing to shoot in P I think you do yourself (general you) a disservice if it's chosen in lieu of learning why the camera does what it does. Knowledge is power. As mentioned above when it comes to flash P or any auto or semi auto modes aren't going to cut it. You have to manipulate things to your advantage otherwise you're going to end up with shots no better then a point and shoot in auto. Again not a slam against semi auto modes, flash is just a different beast.

 

[BeenHereB4]

Thanks everyone. A sick child has foiled my plans of practicing again last night and today, but I will get to it. I def don't want to use any of the automatic modes - my DH spent big $$ on this camera for me because he knew I wanted to learn - so I will learn if it kills me (or takes 20 years)!

It does appear that I am underexposing the pictures even with my camera's flash (and our older home has limited lighting to begin with). I'm not getting noise, it's just more of a dark photo, clear, but dark - like even darker than it appears in person. I'll work some different combos of ISO vs. aperture, etc.

 

[wenrob]

Thanks everyone. A sick child has foiled my plans of practicing again last night and today, but I will get to it. I def don't want to use any of the automatic modes - my DH spent big $$ on this camera for me because he knew I wanted to learn - so I will learn if it kills me (or takes 20 years)!

There's nothing wrong with using the semi auto modes as long as you get why they choose the settings they choose, kwim?
If you choose to get a speed light or use flash frequently I suggest reading up on how to manipulate it to your advantage. Actually I suggest to read, read, read on all aspects when it comes to a DSLR and then practice, practice, practice.

 

[dmccarty]

Your in camera flash likely is set to shoot at 1/60 of a second. Check the manual to see if you can boost the flash synch speed.

You mention a 50mm lens so I assume you have a lens that has maximum aperture of 1.4 or 1.8. Using the lens at those aperture setting will give a very short depth of field(DOF).

Shooting with the flash at 1/60 AND the 50mm should be good enough for hand holding the camera. If your photos are blurred it could be your hand holding but it is more likely that your subject has moved. AND/OR your DOF is so shallow that your subject is blurred. You should be able to view your photo and see where the parts of the image are in focus which might help you figure out what is happening.

The Nikon View NX software can show you the point of focus in an image. I think View NX came with your camera but it can be downloaded from Nikon as well.

Shooting with a shutter speed of 1/60 is pretty slow if the subject is moving around. If you were trying to take kids shooting basketball they will be blurred at 1/60.

If you are shooting JPGs instead of RAW the photos can look dark. Shooting RAW and learning how to use photo editing software can make a huge difference in the quality of your photos. Using the photo editors is going to take time though. No way around it but one of the huge advantages of digital photography is that YOU get to process YOUR photos they way YOU want them. In the film days you had to have your own darkroom to do this and that was not possible for most people so you had to depend on the lab.

If you want to learn about how to use the Nikon flash, get this DVD, Nikon School presents A Hands-on Guide to Creative Lighting. The DVD shows what the Nikon CLS flash system can do.

Later,
Dan

 

[BeenHereB4]

Thanks Wenrob. I do so want to use the full features of my camera. My hope is to soon be shooting manual RAW and to know precisely what ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed I need when I look at a scene. LOL - I know, big hopes here.

So much info out there though. I've got a few good books/vids that were suggested here a while ago and I'm slowly getting through them. And, of course, reading here and on a few other sites as well.

Dan, I will check out that Nikon vid too. My main problem is that the pics are too dark for indoor shooting so I think this will be great. Thanks!

 

[sdshutterbug]

I have to echo what wenrob said about using semi-auto modes. I used to think you were only a good photographer if you used full M but even the pros use semi auto modes depending on their needs. I almost always use Av mode these days. M is good for finicky shots or special situations (like having more control over your flash) but there's nothing wrong with letting the camera figure things out for you; that's why it has a built-in light meter!

 

[seashoreCM]

If your indoor pictures are too dark, you need at least one of these:

1. A more powerful flash.
2. A bigger aperture and, in most cases, accurate focusing,
3. A slower shutter speed which may require a tripod and will require that everyone remain motionless,
4. A higher ISO.

If your pictures are too dark and you know that the aperture is not as wide as it could go, then try (correction made) plussing the Exposure Compensation.

 

[wenrob]

If your indoor pictures are too dark, you need at least one of these:

1. A more powerful flash.
2. A bigger aperture and, in most cases, accurate focusing,
3. A slower shutter speed which may require a tripod and will require that everyone remain motionless,
4. A higher ISO.

If your pictures are too dark and you know that the aperture is not as wide as it could go, then try minusing the Exposure Compensation.

A small correction, if a more powerful flash is used there is no need for a slow shutter speed if you use manual and learn to mix your light. You can pretty much your ignore your meter and tweak things your way. TTL on the flash will follow your direction and compensate.

 

[DisneySuiteFreak]

Set your flash to rear curtain; it will allow more ambient light in before firing the flash. I also recommend you get yourself a copy of the book The Hot Shoe Diaries by Joe McNally. Good luck!

 

[pjacobi]

Ever go to a wedding? What does the professional photographer use is a dark church?

A fast lens? High ISO?

Nope!

He does have a monster of a flash unit and knows hows to use it!


-Paul

 

[GrillMouster]

Ever go to a wedding? What does the professional photographer use is a dark church?

A fast lens? High ISO?

Nope!

He does have a monster of a flash unit and knows hows to use it!


-Paul

Actually, most reputable professional photographers don't pop flashes in the church during the ceremony. While the couple walks down the aisle and as they leave? Yes. During in-church formals? Yes. During the ceremony itself? No. The ceremony is all about the couple; flash is distracting and ruins the moment. We rely on a fast lens, high ISO, and slow shutter speed. During the ceremony there isn't a lot of fast action, so you can get away with a slower shutter speed.

When it comes to flash, more power is not always better. There are moments when you only use flash for the purpose of exposure (increase light level). Don't forget that the most potent use of flash is to create mood, model and flatter the subject, reduce distractions, and call attention to the important parts of the image. In other words, don't alway use flash as a "light grenade". Pay attention to color, direction, and quality of light.