How to Shoot: SpectroMagic

TigerLaw

DIS Veteran
Joined
Mar 17, 2000
Messages
1,633
I just bought the new panasonic dmc-tzi and I love it. My concern however is moving nightitme shots like for spectromagic. I am not the greatest in the photo-lingo, but I think the starting info you will ask is it has:

1. an auto ISO setting,
2. a manual ISO set up to 800
3. and a high sensitivity scene mode in which the camera automatically sets the ISO value betw. 800 and 1600 (the instructions go on to say that the pics will only be good at 4 by 6 and the 120x optical zoom can't be used).

the guid also recommends that I set the pic quality to its softer level (natural) to address noise.

having said all of that, what else do I need to do to increase my odds of great spectro pics?

thanks in advance for the help!
 
It's quite a toss up because Panasonic's ISO 800 and 1600 is unnaturally soft.

Here's the comparison of Canon's ISO 800 vs Canon's ISO 800 cleaned with a freeware vs Panasonic ISO 800 out of camera (ISO 1600 is worse but I do not have example)

67a2098a.jpg
ab443ecd.jpg
748358dd.jpg
 
I do not have any tips for your specific camera.
I can only add:
Expect to spend an hour reserving a good spot.
Check the background. In the immediate areas Disney dims the lights but bright background lights can be distracting. Or not! hhehehee depending on the shot composition.
Where possible fill the frame with the parade lights to help quicken the shuter speed

Mikeeee
 
I like mine too tigerlaw. My only problem so far is I have not been able to put it thru it's paces.

Dpreview hasn't done a review on it yet but have it on their site with comments from users. They vary from like it alot to one maybe two taking it back. Which is normal. I was amused at one comment by one user he said:

And a Canon dSLR user I met while bird-shooting asked me to send him some images, which I did. He commented: "Such sharp shots from such a tiny little
camera - Amazing!"
 

This is from panasonic site:
http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wc...rogram=11002&cachePartner=7000000000000005702

That's why we added a High Sensitivity mode (4) that allows you to shoot at up to ISO 1600 by using the pixel-mixed readout method, effectively raising the shutter speed. It not only minimizes motion blur, it also lets you take clearer, sharper shots in dim lighting without using a flash. The picture quality is good enough for printing at the ordinary 4" x 6" (10 x 15 cm) size

but then it says...
(4) When using High Sensitivity mode, resolution significantly decreases.

So I would suggest staying away from that mode.

Mikeeee
 
If your camera provides for auto bracketing, you might try that; you can always delete the two "rejects" at a later time.

~YEKCIM
 
looks like anything after ISO 400 is basically worthless. What about using the night scenery mode how will that work w. moving objects (floats, characters, etc)?
 
don't use that. any of the night modes prolonged the shutter opening (slower shutter speed), you'll end up with streaks of lights.
 
Spectro is tough. I took a few pics over the weekend. I bumped my ISO up to 1600 and even at the widest aperture (f/3.5) my shutter speed was below 1/30. I took a few and they were just a little to blury for me. So I just kept the ISO and 1600 and used the flash. I tried to take the pics when the floats were most colorful just to add the color to the pic as opposed to when the lights are white. Just my take.
 
Basically, from what I can gather, shots won't be usable past an ISO 800 setting, so I guess that's what I will go with. (I know, I know, you trade some features to get others!) and besides, its not like I was going to be blowing up spectro pics to 8 by 10 anyway.

one last question is the flash issue - I thought I should be trying to get the pics w/o it - won't the flash defeat the purpose of the magical lighting of spectro?

BTW, thanks again everyone for the help!
 
ummm, not if you get Canon S3, there is no trade in feature for anything. Better featured, better high ISO, plus flip-over LCD screen. Don't know about price differences, though. Panasonic in Canada is virtually nonexistent. (I mean camera stores don't carry Panasonic, only Staples-type general stores carry Panasonic cameras)
 
you are correct about the flash. It should be OFF. Turn it ON and you will see the 'skeleton' / structure of each float.
 
How do you do this and have them turn out good? Flash or no flash? We just bought the Pentax ist*DL (thanks to the board for helping us pick that one!) I'm big into wanting pictures of the parades and fireworks and stuff. I read the fabulous advice on how to take fireworks pictures (which we'll be practicing on the 4th of July). I was just wondering if it was possible to get the night parade, too. I have some from my parents' point and shoot digital that we took last year, but they looked not great with the flash and without the flash, you couldn't see anything.

Anybody have any pictures from this parade?

Thanks!
 
I'll give you the benfit of what little experience I have, since most of my Spectro photography is video. First off, the flash range of the popup or built in flash on a dslr or P&S is going to be very limited, so anything beyond just a few feet (6-8 feet) is not going to be within the flash's range. With the *ist, you have the option of either getting an accessory flash, which will have more range and/or bumping your ISO to a higher speed. You can go to ISO 3200 with the *ist DL, but I'm guessing the noise will be pretty bad. I'll bet, though, using 800 or 1600, you might get some decent shots. A dslr, having a larger sensor, will allow you to shoot at higher ISO while minimizing (but probably not eliminating) noise.

Good luck!

~YEKCIM
 
SpectroMagic is tough because it's moving and it's in the dark. You'll need to have a decent shutter speed to eliminate blur from camera shake and the movement of the floats.

I don't know if fill flash would help. I might try it next time using my Nikon SB800 (it's got a much better range than the built in).

Depending on how close I am to the parade, I may actually have to pan with the parade during the exposure.

I've taken many pictures of it with only a few "keepers". And even those aren't that great.

I'd like to see some good pictures of it myself.
 
Flash is not allowed during the parade. It was announced beforehand.

You need a fast shutter which starts with *fast glass* like the canon f/1.8. Then help the glass even more by raising the ISO setting as much as possible before getting too much noise.

62440880-L.jpg

Model: Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XT
Aperture: f/1.8
ISO: 1600
Focal Length: 50mm
Exposure Time: (1/4000)

62440883-L.jpg


62440908-L.jpg


I am sure others have better pics for examples....

Mikeeee
 
Does the faster ISO speed negate the use of the flash? (Sorry, I'm new to the camera world and still learning the lingo) :) Should we be taking pictures only when they are lit with the colored lights, or will the white ones turn out ok too? Any chance of getting the characters on the floats with no flash?

Lovely pictures, by the way!
 
JR6ooo4 said:
Flash is not allowed during the parade. It was announced beforehand. Mikeeee

Never heard that one before, but I havent' been to Spectro since 12/04, so could be something new. I'll bet they have a hard time enforcing the flash ban, though, and would guess that most people ignore the ban.

In any event, most of the flashes would be the vastly inferior (for this purpose, anyway) built-in or popup sort, and would have little or no effect anyway. I'd recommend shooting at highest ISO you can use w/o objectionable noise, and fastest shutter you can get with that ISO. DOF is not going to be a real concern, IMO.

~YEKCIM
 
Should the camera be in manual mode or is there an automatic setting that will work for no-flash and moving lighted objects?

Will a noise reduction software program be enough to compensate for the extra noise at the higher ISO setting given the dark conditions, etc. or will the noise be more than the software can clean up?
 
I used to work spectro, flash and video lighting is a no no. The float drivers can hardley see in the daytime so and night with tons of flashes it is bad and video lighting makes it nearly impossible. That is why you should never cross in front of a float, and why CMs get so bent out of shape when people do.

If you notice during specto there are people walking with those red parking wands. That is what the driver is looking for.

Now photos. I've always had the best results with no flash anyway. My best are with a 35mm SLR using it's kit lens. (it is an old Rebel) I think bumping your ISO to 1600 and using a lens like the 50mm 1.8 should be good for usable photos.

The professional ones Disney takes aren't done during the normal runs so it is easier for them to get fab shots when the float isn't moving and there are no people around.
 


Disney Vacation Planning. Free. Done for You.
Our Authorized Disney Vacation Planners are here to provide personalized, expert advice, answer every question, and uncover the best discounts. Let Dreams Unlimited Travel take care of all the details, so you can sit back, relax, and enjoy a stress-free vacation.
Start Your Disney Vacation
Disney EarMarked Producer






DIS Facebook DIS youtube DIS Instagram DIS Pinterest DIS Tiktok DIS Twitter

Add as a preferred source on Google

Back
Top Bottom