How do you find a clunker??

SandrA9810

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Jul 24, 2005
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Looking at spending a 1,000$ or just under. Cause there's all the fees for tags/title, smog testing, insurance, and what-ever else that comes with buying a car.

I'm not afraid of older cars, I'm not afraid of under the hood either. But I don't want to pay some one a 1,000$ to then go to the part store and spend another few hundred to get it in working order.

And it also needs to be big enough for some one that's 6'7".
 
you aren't going to have much left after tags/title/insurance to buy the car.. I have no idea how much smog testing is we dont need that in my county. I know it tags/title added about 200+$ after the used van price we bought, dont forget about tax you dont pay on the actual price of the car in PA you pay on what its worth. Maybe craigslist? how about the free things at the supermarket? Good Luck I hope you find something suitable and safe!
 
Ohh I know it's probably going to be a few hundred for all the extras, as to why I don't want to go to the max of 1,500$. So 1,000-1,200 on the car.

I've been watching craigslist for a few months, and there's really not that much there.
 

But I don't want to pay some one a 1,000$ to then go to the part store and spend another few hundred to get it in working order.

:confused: :confused: :confused: I don't understand this part. The whole reason something is a clunker, for that price, is that it is expected you will have to fix it yourself. That may require going to the part store and spend another few hundred dollars. If the original owner was willing to do it, the price would be more.

That being said, Have you tried looking in The Recycler? It's a newspaper that is put out every Thurs, in CA, and can be found in 7/11 stores. Get one local to your area. Also try the local Pennysaver. I think there is also a little newspaper just for used autos. It sound be by both newspapers in 7/11.
 
Ohh I know it's probably going to be a few hundred for all the extras, as to why I don't want to go to the max of 1,500$. So 1,000-1,200 on the car.

I've been watching craigslist for a few months, and there's really not that much there.

well if you know there is going to be extras why not just up your looking price so you dont have to buy the extras? Maybe you'd have luck then.. we got a great deal on our van.. I searched and searched and finally a great deal fell into our lap was it over the price I wanted to pay? yes but we talked the guy down into a price I wanted to pay :woohoo: There is nothing wrong with it.. wait there is.. we broke off a clip from the door and we have to replace that.. it was .78 ;)
 
You, my friend, are a classic example of the people victimized by Cash for Clunkers. All those sub $4,500 cars got traded in under Cash for Clunkers, and per the programs requirements, were destroyed.
And with fewer new cars being sold over the last 4 years, it will be a while before any appreciable number of sub $4,500 cars hit the market again.
 
Anything you find for under $1000 is going to need some sort of work. That's why it costs under $1000.
 
You are in luck with stating in your location in the avatar that you are 15 minutes away from the Castle. That means one of 2 things, you are in Florida or you are in California.

You'd be hard pressed to find a $1000 car up here in the north that wasn't a rusted out ready for the junkyard car. I just sold my Honda Civic with 187,000 miles on it for $300. I just put a new head gasket in it and it ran fantastic. But it was ready for some more extensive bodywork for the 2nd time. There comes a point where it's not worth fixing the rust anymore and it begins to happen at 150,000 miles and surely happens when you reach up to 180,000 +.

Rust free Honda Civics with close to 150-200,000 miles should be easily in your price range. They run forever, it's the rust that's usually the problem up here in the salty winters. Even if you need to fix stuff, parts are cheap if you do the work yourself. My $900 quote from the shop replacing the head gasket and timing belt turned out to $29 for the head gasket and $19 for the timing belt parts and I did it myself over a weekend (could have been just 1 day but it was too HOT and humid out for me.) Saved myself over $800.

If you can still find them, late 80's and early 90's Toyota 4x4 4 cylinders are another bullet proof vehicle. They also will run forever. The only reason I got rid of mine was 1 was totaled and the other rusted out. Again, it's the salted roads in the winter problem. In fact, my 88 4Runner was totaled twice and I put it back together with junkyard parts both times from accidents with deer. I didn't have insurance on that vehicle itself (the 89 truck was totaled in an road accident and was insured.) Ran the 88 up to 189,000 miles before I got tired of fixing the winter corrosion every year on the rear fenders.

In fact, aside from regular wear items such as brakes and exhaust, in the near 500,000 miles I had on 4 Toyota trucks and 4Runners, I had only ever rebuilt a clutch slave cyclinder on my 88 4Runner. That was the only repair ever done on any of them. And believe me, I did NOT baby those vehicles. They were driven HARD both on the street and off-road.

One thing about the old Toyota trucks, regular maintenance items are done like clockwork. Front brake pads replace at 50k miles. Rear drum pads replace at 150k. Clutch needs done at 150k. They are very easy to work on and you can nearly set a clock to the maintenance intervals.

Just as a comparison to maintenance between an American manufacturer and a Japanese manufacturer, Both my Ford and my Nissan needed new rotors. My Nissan sat there at 165,000 miles on the original rotors and I figured I would finally replace them. The Ford sat next to it in the driveway with 36,000 miles and it needed rotors replaced because it failed inspection. I did the 165k Nissan because I figured I should, it still would have passed inspection and the Ford failed on all 4 rotors at 36k. If you want something you don't need to constantly put money into, look for a Japanese vehicle. It makes a big difference. I have more money wrapped up in my Ford that now has 60,000 miles than I had combined in my previous 5 Japanese vehicles with a combined total of 657,000 miles. I was stupid and bought a brand new Ford instead of a used Japanese vehicle for the wife.
 
I sold our clunker on Craiglist. It was a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier with 100,000 miles and I sold it for $900, but it needed work, both mechanical and body, for it to pass inspection. We decided to buy a new car and didn't want to bother with it. The first person that looked at it bought it. He said it was the best thing he'd seen under $1000.
 
You are in luck with stating in your location in the avatar that you are 15 minutes away from the Castle. That means one of 2 things, you are in Florida or you are in California.

You'd be hard pressed to find a $1000 car up here in the north that wasn't a rusted out ready for the junkyard car. I just sold my Honda Civic with 187,000 miles on it for $300. I just put a new head gasket in it and it ran fantastic. But it was ready for some more extensive bodywork for the 2nd time. There comes a point where it's not worth fixing the rust anymore and it begins to happen at 150,000 miles and surely happens when you reach up to 180,000 +.

Rust free Honda Civics with close to 150-200,000 miles should be easily in your price range. They run forever, it's the rust that's usually the problem up here in the salty winters. Even if you need to fix stuff, parts are cheap if you do the work yourself. My $900 quote from the shop replacing the head gasket and timing belt turned out to $29 for the head gasket and $19 for the timing belt parts and I did it myself over a weekend (could have been just 1 day but it was too HOT and humid out for me.) Saved myself over $800.

If you can still find them, late 80's and early 90's Toyota 4x4 4 cylinders are another bullet proof vehicle. They also will run forever. The only reason I got rid of mine was 1 was totaled and the other rusted out. Again, it's the salted roads in the winter problem. In fact, my 88 4Runner was totaled twice and I put it back together with junkyard parts both times from accidents with deer. I didn't have insurance on that vehicle itself (the 89 truck was totaled in an road accident and was insured.) Ran the 88 up to 189,000 miles before I got tired of fixing the winter corrosion every year on the rear fenders.

In fact, aside from regular wear items such as brakes and exhaust, in the near 500,000 miles I had on 4 Toyota trucks and 4Runners, I had only ever rebuilt a clutch slave cyclinder on my 88 4Runner. That was the only repair ever done on any of them. And believe me, I did NOT baby those vehicles. They were driven HARD both on the street and off-road.

One thing about the old Toyota trucks, regular maintenance items are done like clockwork. Front brake pads replace at 50k miles. Rear drum pads replace at 150k. Clutch needs done at 150k. They are very easy to work on and you can nearly set a clock to the maintenance intervals.

Just as a comparison to maintenance between an American manufacturer and a Japanese manufacturer, Both my Ford and my Nissan needed new rotors. My Nissan sat there at 165,000 miles on the original rotors and I figured I would finally replace them. The Ford sat next to it in the driveway with 36,000 miles and it needed rotors replaced because it failed inspection. I did the 165k Nissan because I figured I should, it still would have passed inspection and the Ford failed on all 4 rotors at 36k. If you want something you don't need to constantly put money into, look for a Japanese vehicle. It makes a big difference. I have more money wrapped up in my Ford that now has 60,000 miles than I had combined in my previous 5 Japanese vehicles with a combined total of 657,000 miles. I was stupid and bought a brand new Ford instead of a used Japanese vehicle for the wife.

What he said!:thumbsup2
 
You, my friend, are a classic example of the people victimized by Cash for Clunkers. All those sub $4,500 cars got traded in under Cash for Clunkers, and per the programs requirements, were destroyed.
And with fewer new cars being sold over the last 4 years, it will be a while before any appreciable number of sub $4,500 cars hit the market again.

You got it! The low price used car market is empty right now thanks to that stupid program.
Believe me we have been looking (and a bunch of other people for us) and there is nothing out there. My DH just started back to work after being out a long time so we need a 2nd car and we had hoped not to have to borrow much at this point till we get at least a few checks in the bank but next to nothing on the market. Thank goodness we have a great credit score because we are going to have to move way up in the market to find anything.
 
... I know it tags/title added about 200+$ after the used van price we bought, dont forget about tax you dont pay on the actual price of the car in PA you pay on what its worth.
How does that work? I mean, how can they say that what you paid for a car isn't what it is worth? The very basis of the free market is that things sell for what they are worth. Heck, the definition of 'worth' is the price at which a seller will sell and a buyer will buy.
 
How does that work? I mean, how can they say that what you paid for a car isn't what it is worth? The very basis of the free market is that things sell for what they are worth. Heck, the definition of 'worth' is the price at which a seller will sell and a buyer will buy.

I dunno its on the DOT website like that.. maybe kbb value? :confused3
 
I dunno its on the DOT website like that.. maybe kbb value? :confused3

Our state uses either the KBB or something similar too. You could sell a car to a relative for $50 and if it just went by the price you paid they would be out a lot of revenue. Our tabs are based on the value of the car according to whatever valuation table they use.

I agree that finding a car for under $1000 is very difficult. Do you have a local paper where you can run a free ad saying "car wanted" and put in what you are looking for? Also, do you have a good mechanic that will look at the car before you buy it. I have to agree with others that you are not going to find a $1000 or less car that doesn't need work.
 
For 1000 you are looking at repairs, unless you get lucky. Look in the newspaper, thrifty nickel, look at Autotrader http://www.autotrader.com/research/used-cars/index.jsp

You need to expand your search. Craigslist is probably not the place to look for clunkers.

I would wait and save up another grand and buy a 2000 car.

OK, on Autotrader you can lower the price. I found plenty of cars under a grand for my area. You are just looking in the wrong place.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searc...se&systime=&sownerid=553748&rdm=1283346703416
 
Ask people you know.

We just bought DD16 a car for $1700- '93 Mercury Topaz with only 56,000 miles. It needed an oil change and that was it. We got it from a coworker. It belonged to her grandmother who passed away in Dec.

The taxes on that car was $15. On my car '07 Solara Convertible the taxes are close to $400. In SC they base it on the value of the vehicle. The lowest they go do around $12 for taxes.
 
How hard is it to learn stick shift?? I know manuals are generally cheaper, and usually get better mileage. I'm not afraid of learning to drive stick, I just don't want to burn out the transmission.

Yes, I'm in California, just a couple hrs outside of Sacramento. I haven't changed my info yet, because FL still feels like home to me. And well being 3,000 miles away isn't as cool as 15 miles away. But I didn't realize that the specific State I was in, determined how to find a car.

I'm not afraid of fixing stuff. The two cars that I drove before were a '95 Mercury Villager and a '00 Ford Ranger. Money was sunk into those constantly. And I learned how to do a lot of the repair work myself, because paying 80$ an hr for the mechanic was out of the question for 15 minutes worth of work. But they were both Kari's cars and she wanted them both.

At first we were looking into buying his friend's Honda Accord '96 for like 1500$ or maybe less. At first it was just a couple of things, catalytic converter and a pressure check on the radiator because it could overheat a bit if it stayed still too long. That wasn't a big deal, and then in another conversation his friend said something about steering or the tie rods and that's when I said... no. Because that would've had to be done by a mechanic and I don't know any one out here or want to pay for it.

The second option, is his uncle's old Beetle. It runs, but needs new tires and a new windshield. The tags also haven't been updated since '05, but because of how old it is, it doesn't need a smog test. Plus it's a little cramped for a tall person, and it's a manual. He also very apprehensive about learning to drive, and I don't think it would be a good car to learn in (especially if you're not comfortable sitting behind the wheel).

I also don't want to be behind the wheel of a car that was previously totaled. I don't think any one else in their right mind would want to either.

I can deal with spending a little (100-150) on some parts to take home and replace myself. And I'm sure a tune up will probably be needed with an oil change. I just don't want drastic transmission or engine kind of problems.
 
You can work part time to get more money to save up for a better car. Anything you buy that costs $1000 is probably going to need endless repairs and cost more in the long run.
 
How hard is it to learn stick shift?? I know manuals are generally cheaper, and usually get better mileage. I'm not afraid of learning to drive stick, I just don't want to burn out the transmission.

Yes, I'm in California, just a couple hrs outside of Sacramento. I haven't changed my info yet, because FL still feels like home to me. And well being 3,000 miles away isn't as cool as 15 miles away. But I didn't realize that the specific State I was in, determined how to find a car.

I'm not afraid of fixing stuff. The two cars that I drove before were a '95 Mercury Villager and a '00 Ford Ranger. Money was sunk into those constantly. And I learned how to do a lot of the repair work myself, because paying 80$ an hr for the mechanic was out of the question for 15 minutes worth of work. But they were both Kari's cars and she wanted them both.

At first we were looking into buying his friend's Honda Accord '96 for like 1500$ or maybe less. At first it was just a couple of things, catalytic converter and a pressure check on the radiator because it could overheat a bit if it stayed still too long. That wasn't a big deal, and then in another conversation his friend said something about steering or the tie rods and that's when I said... no. Because that would've had to be done by a mechanic and I don't know any one out here or want to pay for it.

The second option, is his uncle's old Beetle. It runs, but needs new tires and a new windshield. The tags also haven't been updated since '05, but because of how old it is, it doesn't need a smog test. Plus it's a little cramped for a tall person, and it's a manual. He also very apprehensive about learning to drive, and I don't think it would be a good car to learn in (especially if you're not comfortable sitting behind the wheel).

I also don't want to be behind the wheel of a car that was previously totaled. I don't think any one else in their right mind would want to either.

I can deal with spending a little (100-150) on some parts to take home and replace myself. And I'm sure a tune up will probably be needed with an oil change. I just don't want drastic transmission or engine kind of problems.

What year is the beetle? Depending on the year, I'm thinking parts may be hard to come by. I'd think of some of the common things the beetle would need and then call around and see how available and how pricey they are.
Actually, I would do that with any car, especially from the mid 90's down.
 


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