How do you determine your offer?

[jodiey]

Or those of you that purchased resale, how did you. One up with an offer that was lower than the asking price?

 

[CMOORE185]

Or those of you that purchased resale, how did you. One up with an offer that was lower than the asking price?

I determined a price I thought was a great deal for me then started to make offers on contracts I liked one at a time. If they turned it down or counter offered I said no thank you and moved on to the next contract until someone was willing to sell to me at my price. I would not have bought unless I got my price.

 

[jnamadison]

I think your offer probably depends on your situation.

If you want SSR right now, you probably need to go a little bit higher than bottom dollar since most of the ROFR is taking place there.

If you are trying to make sure the seller accepts quicker, you might go a little bit closer to asking.

If you're not on any timetable or not married to a certain contract, you can easily do what CMoore did.

We were looking to get a contract to use next year vs renting points, so we were willing to pay a little more per point for the loaded contract.

Generally, I'd say go with what you're comfortable with. Too big a purchase to start off uneasy.

 

[dundey]

Basically I looked at current listing prices and contracts that were accepted that closely matched the number of points and resort we were considering for a resale.

We have purchased 3 resales in the last couple years, and just agreed on a deal for our forth, so I'm getting better at it!

We usually only look for loaded contracts, which effectively lowers the sales price if you want to rent those points, which we have done.

As for the offer it has always been less that the list price, by how much was determined by the comps. I have a few offers refused, and we've negotiated on 2 of the ones we bought. Our last deal the seller accepted our initial offer which was for $4 less per pt than asking price.

So it really does depend and like all deals depends greatly on the motivation of both buyer and seller!

 

[CMOORE185]

I think your offer probably depends on your situation.

If you want SSR right now, you probably need to go a little bit higher than bottom dollar since most of the ROFR is taking place there.

If you are trying to make sure the seller accepts quicker, you might go a little bit closer to asking.

If you're not on any timetable or not married to a certain contract, you can easily do what CMoore did.

We were looking to get a contract to use next year vs renting points, so we were willing to pay a little more per point for the loaded contract.

Generally, I'd say go with what you're comfortable with. Too big a purchase to start off uneasy.

You make great points and when I was offering they were ROFRing nothing, so I was not worried about losing it.

People were generally asking the same price for the point contract we were looking at and I offered $7 to $8 dollars less per point then they were asking.

In hindsight I probably could have got it for less because there are some really wanting out of there contracts, and I saw some sold for a lot less on the ROFR thread at the time.

 

[bookem]

When I was making offers for SSR, I would start by finding a contract that would suit my needs. Then I filtered out the dreamers, people asking way more than average pp. Then I typically offered $5/p less. My 1st 2 offers were accepted right away, but didn't pass ROFR. The 3rd contract went back and forth a few times before accepting at $2 more than the other contracts, but it did pass ROFR. My conundrum was if I offered too low so they could counter offer and they accepted it may not pass ROFR. But if I offered at the top of my budget and they countered, I wouldn't have the same room in the negotiation process. It really is all perception. If you feel you got a good deal, than you did!

 

[MountainMouse]

Depends on circumstances and preferences. Strictly dollar speaking, it's best to continually lowball until the stars line up, the owner accepts, and DVD waives ROFR. Check the ROFR a board and see what's reasonable lowball, what's a fair price, and what's an overpay. Then evaluate your circumstances and preferences to make the appropriate offer. In our case, we wanted to book a trip at an important 11 month window with the new points and couldn't afford time lost if DVD took the contract through ROFR. We found the contract we wanted, offered on the low end of a fair price, the seller counted right in the middle of what we considered fair and we accepted. I've since seen other contracts pass for higher and some lower. I'm jealous of the lower ones, but glad I got a fair priced contract that I could use for the trip I wanted.

 

[bellablue2]

i look at what's passing rofr and make a comparable offer on a contract with as many free points as possible. i always calculate my net price after renting the free points. and i'm prepared to accept a "no." i usually will not up my initial offer. i generally pay closing as sellers and disney seem to like that. just made it through rofr on a 220 okw contract with 440 points on now, 220 coming on 12/1/15, i pay closing, $66.

 

[dsnydaddy]

I looked at all the various resellers to get a good feel for what going price was. I actually took and overall average of all the contracts that were on the market at the time. For SSR that number is about $74. I figured that any price I got below that was a deal. I didn't worry much about ROFR because if my contract got taken, I'd simply try for another.

 

[com_op_2000]

My one resale deal, I paid within one dollar of my two direct contracts. This is what I was looking to do and it worked out for both sides.

 

[MountainMouse]

My one resale deal, I paid within one dollar of my two direct contracts. This is what I was looking to do and it worked out for both sides.

I'm assuming direct pricing had gone up quite a bit since you had purchased and the resale contract was still a large discount over what existing direct would have cost you?

 

[newfangled]

Like others I used the great ROFR list here on the boards to determine what
"market value" is.

We tried to give some credit to loaded contracts and laughed at the stripped ones. In the end we offered $10 less than asking, and paid on the high end of market value for a nicely loaded contract....I think it will work out for all parties involved (should close within the next 30 days or so).

BTW...I'm not saying that there isn't a reason to buy a stripped contract - but some of the asking prices for them were laughable. We could see ourselves considering an add-on at a second resort if the price is right.

 

[com_op_2000]

I'm assuming direct pricing had gone up quite a bit since you had purchased and the resale contract was still a large discount over what existing direct would have cost you?

Bought original contract in '93, bought 2nd direct contract in '97, and purchased resale in '11. Yes direct pricing had gone up considerable since the original purchase.

 

[lovin'fl]

I look at the waiting for ROFR thread on here ( http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=3297614 ) and only will consider contracts that are priced within what is being reported as current selling prices. I offer about $5-8 less per point. I don't mess with asking for closing costs or annual dues (unless it's stripped, then I won't pay annual dues).

 

[squirrel4569]

I looked at what is passing plus asked the brokers what is passing. I offered an amount that was less than what they were offering but within what should pass. It also worked out to be a nice round number when the points were added up. They countered halfway and I accepted that. I wasn't stuck so much on the initial price because it wasn't a huge amount of points, but I just wanted to make some kind of deal. The difference was $480, so that doesn't make or break anything.

 

[DVCjuggernaut]

I looked at what is passing plus asked the brokers what is passing. I offered an amount that was less than what they were offering but within what should pass. It also worked out to be a nice round number when the points were added up. They countered halfway and I accepted that. I wasn't stuck so much on the initial price because it wasn't a huge amount of points, but I just wanted to make some kind of deal. The difference was $480, so that doesn't make or break anything.

In my experience the resale agent definitely helped, but she was quite firm in stating that ROFR can be a bit unpredictable. That being said, she seemed confident and it turned out to not be a problem at all. I think you're okay as long as the offer isn't way below the general market prices.