HDR (high dynamic range)

The dynamic range of most dSLR sensors is about 7 stops. By going +/-1 we extend it to 9 stops, by going +/-2 we (theoretically) get about 11 stops.
I figure the "nominal" image covers about +/- 3.5 stops so I go for +/-2 figuring the nominal image easily covers the gap between that and +/-2 stops.

I wish Canon had a feature for more than 3 bracketed images.
 
The dynamic range of most dSLR sensors is about 7 stops. By going +/-1 we extend it to 9 stops, by going +/-2 we (theoretically) get about 11 stops.
I figure the "nominal" image covers about +/- 3.5 stops so I go for +/-2 figuring the nominal image easily covers the gap between that and +/-2 stops.

I wish Canon had a feature for more than 3 bracketed images.

They do. I usually leave mine set to 5, but I've set it to 3 and 7 as well.

I usually do a 5 shot spread in 1 stop increments. I often add exp comp.

Also, I changed mine to - 0 + instead of 0 - +. That is, it shoots in lowest to highest exp order instead of shooting the "correct" exposure first.
 
They do. I usually leave mine set to 5, but I've set it to 3 and 7 as well.

I usually do a 5 shot spread in 1 stop increments. I often add exp comp.

Also, I changed mine to - 0 + instead of 0 - +. That is, it shoots in lowest to highest exp order instead of shooting the "correct" exposure first.

Let me rephrase that: the Canon dSLRs that most of us can afford (Rebels and xxD) only do three bracketed shots in AEB. ;) Maybe this is a reason for me to step up to a "1" series! :)

I prefer the -,0,+ arrangement also.
 
Let me rephrase that: the Canon dSLRs that most of us can afford (Rebels and xxD) only do three bracketed shots in AEB. ;) Maybe this is a reason for me to step up to a "1" series! :)
I prefer the -,0,+ arrangement also.

This may be one feature where a Canon P&S beats the dSLR!
my Canon S5 (with the CHDK program) can do at least 10 exposure brackets but it takes time to set that up so I usually go with the automated three stops
 

So, here's a question that begs an answer. If you shoot RAW, import the photo into, say, Lightroom, save it three times in JPG format, one with no changes, one set to an exposure of +1 and one set to an exposure of -1, can you still get a decent HDR?
 
So, here's a question that begs an answer. If you shoot RAW, import the photo into, say, Lightroom, save it three times in JPG format, one with no changes, one set to an exposure of +1 and one set to an exposure of -1, can you still get a decent HDR?

Some say yes. Some say no. I think it depends on your RAW processing software. If your RAW processor is good, it should be able to handle the entire range in the original RAW file, so you'd see no benefit to going the triple JPG route. It may be, however, that the HDR software makes it easier for you to control the dynamic range compression required to reduce the original RAW file down to something presentable with a JPG file.
 
I have only PSE 5, which doesn't handle raw capture. So I need a program that will process raw as well as give me HDR capability?
Will Nikon Capture DX do the trick on both counts? Or will I have to add another program like Photomatix? (CS3 is a little too pricey at the moment).
Any other suggestions on software to consider?
Thanks, as ever.
Laura
 
I have only PSE 5, which doesn't handle raw capture. So I need a program that will process raw as well as give me HDR capability?
Will Nikon Capture DX do the trick on both counts? Or will I have to add another program like Photomatix? (CS3 is a little too pricey at the moment).
Any other suggestions on software to consider?
Thanks, as ever.
Laura


I use photomatix not so much for the HDR look but that it's better in some light situations,

this is a before/after jpg pic with three bracket exposures



before:






after:

2672677294_c991ab9455.jpg



.
 
I really like some of the HDR images some of our group have posted, mostly using Photomatix. Unfortunately the software at $99 is a little pricey to just play with so I bought a lower priced product. Well, you get what you pay for (if you are lucky) and the software, though not bad, is very difficult to use for me anyway.

So back to Photomatix, but wait, they offer a 60% discount for students! Yours truly is an official "starving" student, working on a degree in web development (and imaging). If there are any students out there that want to try HDR the Photomatix software is a *great* deal at $40!
 
Ok, so here's my first full fledged attempt at HDR using Photoshop CS3. Yes, there are people in it so I worked on elminating the "ghosts".

The seagulls were freaky looking so I kept them in. LOL

It's not Disney but the Santa Monica Pier (we were in DL later that day.)

santamonica-hdr-lowres.jpg
 
Ok, so I'm reviving an older thread because recent posts on other threads have me intrigued. :confused: I grasp the whole concept of bracketing/taking 3-5 shots and changing the exposure via shutter speed. What I DON'T grasp is, what software do you use to combine the three?? Is photomatix (www.hdrsoft.com) the only program that you can use? Let me rephrase that; is photomatix the only one you can use without purchasing CS3? I have Elements 5.0 and my Pentax CD that came with my camera, but what other software do I need?? :confused3 THANKS!!!!
 
Does HDR mode take all three or all five bracketed shots in succession automatically?

If I have to adjust the camera myself to change the exposure and push the shutter button again to get the next bracketed shot, (the camera is jostled and) the view won't be the same even if I did use a tripod. Then software in a computer will have to do a lot of hunting to align the uploaded images for merging.
 
To answer seashoreCM: a lot of SLRs (and maybe some P&S cameras) have a function that will automagically take 3-5 shots with different exposures. In Canon-speak it is AEB (auto exposure bracket).

To answer RBennett: Photomatix is not the only software that does HDR. Photoshop CS3 (maybe CS2 ?) will do HDR and Dynamic-Photo HDR will also. I have had the most success with Photomatix, and their generous student discount didn't hurt either.
 
Ok, so I'm reviving an older thread because recent posts on other threads have me intrigued. :confused: I grasp the whole concept of bracketing/taking 3-5 shots and changing the exposure via shutter speed. What I DON'T grasp is, what software do you use to combine the three?? Is photomatix (www.hdrsoft.com) the only program that you can use? Let me rephrase that; is photomatix the only one you can use without purchasing CS3? I have Elements 5.0 and my Pentax CD that came with my camera, but what other software do I need?? :confused3 THANKS!!!!
I think there's several apps that do HDR, Photomatrix seems to be the one of choice for people going for the unrealistic (or hyperrealistic) look. I don't know about Elements but the software that came with your camera doesn't do anything.

Does HDR mode take all three or all five bracketed shots in succession automatically?

If I have to adjust the camera myself to change the exposure and push the shutter button again to get the next bracketed shot, (the camera is jostled and) the view won't be the same even if I did use a tripod. Then software in a computer will have to do a lot of hunting to align the uploaded images for merging.
If you're using a tripod, you should be able to adjust the settings without changing the camera's angle... especially if using a quick-release plate, where you can pop the camera off, fiddle with the settings, and pop it back on and have it exactly where it was before.

For the mode, it depends on the camera I believe. Only one or two cameras have what could be called HDR modes specifically set up... on mine (which is one of those), there's an external bracketing button. Press it and spin the dials to select off, 3, or 5 exposures, and how much bracketing to do to each one. (Very quick and easy - I just started playing with it a little last weekend, around the time I hit 10,000 photos on the camera. :) ) It only takes the shots as long as you hold down the shutter, so you can leave it in this mode and just take single shots if you want. When you hold it down, it then takes the bracketed shots as configured - normal, then dark, then light IIRC.
 
Looks a lot like the effect I get from using Shadow/Highlight in Photoshop.
Similar, yes -- except that using Shadow & Highlight will usually result in a good bit of noise in the lightened shadows. HDR will avoid that pitfall. And that's only one way to go with HDR; they can have that illustrative look, or they can look quite realistic.

On probably the majority of subjects, three to five exposures will suffice for HDR. To get the most out of it, though, you want to make enough exposures that the entire dynamic range of the scene is captured. On the darkest overall exposure, the image's histogram should show no data at the extreme right end of the scale (indicating that the highlights on that exposure are all within the range of the sensor. For the brightest exposure, the histogram should not extend all the way to the left, indicating that all the shadows are within the gamut of the sensor. The exception is with the darkest exposure -- if the sun or some other bright light source is in the frame, it is pretty well expected to have some blown-out pixels from that, which would show a spike at the right end of the histogram.

Of course, that's the textbook, ideal example. In reality, you may get results you like without quite capturing the entire dynamic range of the scene. I've seen HDR images made from seven, nine or even 11 source images. But usually, three to five should work well.

Ideally, you want to use the right number of images for HDR -- too few will cause obvious problems, but too many can also present difficulties -- beyond simply increasing the processing time. How can you tell? The only answer there is practice. It is better to shoot too many and then select what you need through trial and error than to come home with too few images in the first place.

SSB
 
Ok, so I'm reviving an older thread because recent posts on other threads have me intrigued. :confused: I grasp the whole concept of bracketing/taking 3-5 shots and changing the exposure via shutter speed. What I DON'T grasp is, what software do you use to combine the three?? Is photomatix (www.hdrsoft.com) the only program that you can use? Let me rephrase that; is photomatix the only one you can use without purchasing CS3? I have Elements 5.0 and my Pentax CD that came with my camera, but what other software do I need?? :confused3 THANKS!!!!

While Photomatix and CS2/CS3 have features for automatically handling HDR, you can get by without them. In the old days (before the term HDR was popular), we used to manually do it using older versions of Photoshop. You just coping the pieces you wanted from various photos, feathered the selections, and pasted them together. It was laborious, but it worked. Actually, if it was as simple as replacing a sky, it wasn't even that laborious.

I think there's several apps that do HDR, Photomatrix seems to be the one of choice for people going for the unrealistic (or hyperrealistic) look. I don't know about Elements but the software that came with your camera doesn't do anything.

I use Photomatix. It is easy to get unrealistic shots with it, but it is also the easiest to get realistic shots with. It's a great product. Don't judge it too negatively because people use it in ways you don't care for.

If you're using a tripod, you should be able to adjust the settings without changing the camera's angle... especially if using a quick-release plate, where you can pop the camera off, fiddle with the settings, and pop it back on and have it exactly where it was before.
I would strongly suggest not take the camera off between shots. You are bound to move something a bit and throw off the images.

For the mode, it depends on the camera I believe. Only one or two cameras have what could be called HDR modes specifically set up... on mine (which is one of those), there's an external bracketing button. Press it and spin the dials to select off, 3, or 5 exposures, and how much bracketing to do to each one. (Very quick and easy - I just started playing with it a little last weekend, around the time I hit 10,000 photos on the camera. :) ) It only takes the shots as long as you hold down the shutter, so you can leave it in this mode and just take single shots if you want. When you hold it down, it then takes the bracketed shots as configured - normal, then dark, then light IIRC.

Does it do HDR or does it just bracket? Every DSLR I've ever had makes it easy to bracket.

With my camera, you can control whether you want 3, 5, 7, or 9 shots for bracketing. I almost always use 5. I hold the bracketting button (actually a pair of buttons you press together) and rotate the main dial to adjust the spread of the bracket shots (from 1/3 stop gaps to larger gaps). I also use the second dial to adjust exposure compensation (whether I want the bracketed shots centered on the metered exposure or not).

In high speed shutter mode, the camera will fire a burst of shots covering the bracket range and then stop. That's great for hand-held or braced shooting as it can fire off a 7 shot spread in less than a second.

You can also set it to fire all of the shots with a single button press, which is great for tripod shooting.

You can also adjust the sequence. I like it to shoot lowest exposure to highest, but you can reverse that or you can put normal first and then run through the range. I find going from lowest to highest makes the most sense to me, particularly when I'm looking at the shots in LR later.
 
For the mode, it depends on the camera I believe. Only one or two cameras have what could be called HDR modes specifically set up... on mine (which is one of those), there's an external bracketing button. Press it and spin the dials to select off, 3, or 5 exposures, and how much bracketing to do to each one.

It may not be called HDR mode but many Canon models ( A & S series) have unlimited exposure bracketing with the CHDK program
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_in_Brief
 















Receive up to $1,000 in Onboard Credit and a Gift Basket!
That’s right — when you book your Disney Cruise with Dreams Unlimited Travel, you’ll receive incredible shipboard credits to spend during your vacation!
CLICK HERE













DIS Facebook DIS youtube DIS Instagram DIS Pinterest DIS Tiktok DIS Twitter DIS Bluesky

Back
Top