Falling in love with the Caribbean one week at a time- So much to learn, read and watch! (March 2022 Sailing)

lunarsongbird

Disney Magic is a Must
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
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415 Days. By the time we cruise, it will have been four years since we have vacationed of any kind. Six years since our first and only Disney cruise. And let me tell you... those years really flew by, so I'm hopeful that this year that stands between this spring break and next year will also sail by. Cruising in 2022 gives us a little more security that the ships will be sailing and we will likely know what kind of changes to expect.

This also gives me ample time for one of my very very favorite pastimes. Researching. Diving headfirst into google and books to gobble up as much as I can about our trip and our destinations. There are so many things I want to learn about. In fact, I have a topic that I want to spend a bit of time with every week until we leave. Let me give you a glimpse:

February
  • Caribbean Birds- Did you know that the British Virgin Islands and US Virgin Islands have different official birds? Have you seen them on your past trips? (Or will you get a chance for the first time?)
  • Tortola History (Where did the neighborhood names come from?)
  • What food is most authentic to the islands?
  • What music originated in the Virgin Islands?
March
  • What reptiles and amphibians might we see?
  • What is the history of St. Thomas?
  • Are there specialty drinks that can't be missed?
  • Famous Virgin Islands Poets and Poetry
April
  • Mammals of the Islands
  • History and Backstory of Castaway Cay
  • Folk Tales of the Caribbean
  • Secrets on the Disney Fantasy
May
  • Common fish of the Virgin Islands
  • Famous Caribbean Art
  • Architecture of the Islands
  • Other people's experience of the islands. What does it smell like?
  • Research what souvenirs are most authentic and genuine

I also have a book and a movie that I would like to enjoy every month. First up:
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I know that the Disney Cruise book will be outdated by the time we cruise... and I haven't seen a 2021... I might buy the 2022 when it comes out, because it will likely give in great detail all the covid changes. You also have to love a little old school travel book, a history book and a personal memoir from an expat. As the year progresses, I have researched some contemporary Caribbean authors and some that are deemed to be classics. Oh- and some various different nature books. It sounds very fun.... and... a bit nerdy.

I've also researched some movies filmed in the Virgin Islands that I figured we would watch on the 19th of every month and maybe even have an island inspired dinner, because... why not? Covid is still sucking the joy out of life... we must inject some joy back in. Join me!
 
My word. It's been nearly a month and I'm terribly behind on my research schedule. ;) There has been so much to celebrate in February, from Chinese New Years, Valentine's Day and Mardi Gras and tomorrow is my Birthday! We are also preparing to get new flooring installed this week, so we have been a bit busy with juggling small children and trying to get all of our stuff off the floor and into the garage. But yet- we are now less then 400 days from sailing. Huzzah.

So onto my first research topic. Caribbean birds.
By no means am I even something that comes close to resembling a birder. However, like many... when the world was quieter during the height of covid, I began to notice the world around me a bit more, especially outside of our windows, since we were at home so much. My husband even got me binoculars for Mother's Day.

So I thought it would enhance our trip to be able to say:
"Look! A bananaquit! The official bird of the US Virgin Islands. In the islands, it is affectionately known as the sugar bird, because locals will set out a shallow dish of granulated sugar and the bird will help itself"
The bananaquit has a prominent place on the US Virgin Islands seal:
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The Forest Service of the Virgin Islands has a lovely birding guide that you can print out and trifold to fit in your back pocket: https://www.nps.gov/viis/learn/nature/upload/virginislandsbirdlist.pdf

I used it compile some pictures for myself, so I believe we have a good chance of seeing these birds in Tortola and St. Thomas.

These are birds that you won't really have to go looking for. Allegedly they are just abundantly part of the landscape:
(Those birds with a green border you are likely not to see in the US, they primarily live in the Caribbean and South America or Mexico. Those with a yellow border only have a range map of the Caribbean. So I would love to see some of these. Of the 564 Caribbean bird species, 148 (26%) are endemic–they exist nowhere else in the world. In fact, there are over 100 bird species in the Caribbean that only live on one island.)
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The turtle dove is the official bird of the British Virgin Islands. Local tradition claims that Christopher Columbus named Tortola after the Spanish word for turtle dove, but apparently he actually named it Santa Ana. (The local lore is so much sweeter). The turtle dove is featured on the official BVI territorial print, which depicts unique aspects of their culture: The turtle dove, oleander, hibiscus, soursop, sugar apple and the Virgin Islands sloop.

Although I'm not too sure that you will be seeing too many people wearing the dress. It doesn't seem terribly popular.
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But nonetheless, you will see the dove on the territorial print and also among the Virgin Islands.
  • The Booby is strong and agile flyer. It usually flies at speed of 24 miles per hour. However, due to clumsy appearance on the solid ground, the booby was labeled as "stupid" by the first European settlers. Its name is derived from Spanish word "bobo" which means "stupid". It often catches fish by plunging into the water from the height of 80 feet, at the speed of 60 miles per hour.
  • When fishing, pelicans scoop up both three gallons of seawater and many fish. Then you will notice they drain out the water and toss their head back swallowing only the fish. Pelicans were once on the endangered species list, but they have recently been removed because most populations have recovered. The oldest pelican fossil on record is a 30-million-year-old skull.
  • Able to soar for weeks on wind currents, frigatebirds spend most of the day in flight hunting for food. Christopher Columbus encountered frigatebirds when passing the Cape Verde Islands on his first voyage across the Atlantic in 1492. In his journal entry for 29 September he used the word rabiforçado, modern Spanish rabihorcado or forktail. Frigatebirds can stay aloft for up to two months without touching down on land or water. More importantly, while out at sea, they couldn't even take a break even if they wanted to; unlike most other seabirds, frigatebirds can't swim, becoming waterlogged and eventually drowning if they do encounter water. It's this inability to stop and get some rest while floating that has caused scientists to learn that the birds can sleep while flying- in 10 second intervals, which can amount to 45 minutes a day. Once on land, the bird can sleep for 12 hours at a time. In the Caribbean frigatebirds were called Man-of-War birds by English mariners. This name was used by the English explorer William Dampier in his book An Account of a New Voyage Around the World published in 1697:
    • The Man-of-War (as it is called by the English) is about the bigness of a Kite, and in shape like it, but black; and the neck is red. It lives on Fish yet never lights on the water, but soars aloft like a Kite, and when it sees its prey, it flys down head foremost to the Waters edge, very swiftly takes its prey out of the Sea with his Bill, and immediately mounts again as swiftly; never touching the Water with his Bill. His Wings are very long; his feet are like other Land-fowl, and he builds on Trees, where he finds any; but where they are wanting on the ground.
  • Folklore from Scotland says "Seagull, seagull, sit on the sand; it's a sign of rain when you are at hand." Birds will roost in times of low pressure, which is often indicative of an oncoming storm. The laughing gull's call sounds like "Ha, Ha, Ha," which is how it got it's name. As much as gulls are often terrible nuisances and I've heard they try hard to keep them from ravaging Castaway Cay... I do miss them. I delighted in seeing them on our first cruise. We don't have too many gulls in Colorado Springs, but when I lived in California as a girl, they were plentiful.
  • They gray kingbird sounds very much like its Spanish name “Pitirre”. It starts singing before dawn. The scientific name Tyrannus means “tyrant, despot, or king,” referring to the aggression kingbirds exhibit with each other and with other species. When defending their nests they will attack much larger predators.
  • The thrasher is extremely bold and threatens other species entering their nesting area, including National Park Service workers. These mockingbird relatives are prolific breeders. They are very vocal and can be heard singing throughout the night during a full moon. On St. John, they are often also called thrusie.
Here are our common seabirds and shore birds:
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And our common forest birds:
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This is a funny blog post about the blackfaced grassquit, considering some might believe it is the most boring looking bird in the Caribbean- https://abacobirds.com/2020/10/01/black-faced-grassquits-on-abaco-bahamas/

Look how fun this Caribbean bird bingo is: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uvqmh7x6...0&preview=Bird-Spy-Bingo-Lesson-1-English.pdf
It's from the BirdSleuth Caribbean program, where teachers in the Caribbean are learning to involve young people in the natural world and build their science skills. The overall goal is to develop a strong conservation ethic in young people and promote commitment to environmental stewardship by increasing their knowledge and interest in birds, nature and science.

There really isn't too much information I have been able to find about the birds that might be awaiting us in Castaway Cay. In fact, some people on Disboards have mentioned that Disney goes out of it's way to make sure that birds don't become pests on the beaches. So I turned to the closest island to Castaway Cay to see what birds were local neighbors. I was surprised to see how many more birds were listed as living on the Abaco island than the Virgin Islands.
https://abacobirds.com/about/

I also thought that the bird population would pretty much be the same, but I was mistaken. I suppose that makes sense. The Virgin Islands are about 925 miles away from the Bahamas, which is about the distance from Orlando to Philadelphia.

These are permanent breeding residents of Abaco. Since we will be visiting at the end of March, we will probably be missing both the winter residents and the summer residents.
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However, according to some ebirders that have visited CC, we will most likely just see a bunch of terns:
https://ebird.org/hotspot/L1913607?yr=all&m=&rank=hc
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For less than a large coffee at Dutch Brothers, I ordered this used birding book. I tiptoed through seven inches of snow this morning to pull it out of the mailbox.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0691024243/
 
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I've taken liberties in editing and flourishing Disney Cruise Line's description of Tortola, our first port of call:

Discover the largest and most populous of the British Virgin Islands, named after Saint Ursula and her 11,000 British Virgins by Christopher Columbus. (Indeed, there are not 11,000 islands, nor were there probably 11,000 martyred maidens. One theory is that there was only one martyr, named Undecimilla, which was incorrectly translated as undicimila, or 11,000, in Latin) There are 90 virgin Islands, 60 being under British jurisdiction.

A Brief History Lesson
This modern hotspot for vacationers was first settled by the Arawak and Carib peoples, who were attracted to the island’s potential for sailing. In 1493, Christopher Columbus spotted the island and—it is believed—dubbed it the "Land of the Turtle Dove." In 1555 the Holy Roman emperor Charles V sent a Spanish invasion force to claim the islands, and by 1596 most of the Caribs had fled or been killed.
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In the 16th century, the English, who had successfully taken control of the area from the Dutch, established a permanent plantation colony on Tortola and the surrounding islands. The sugar cane industry, dependent on the slave labor of Africans transported from the continent, dominated Tortola history over the next 180 years. It diminished in the mid-19th century after the abolition of slavery.
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https://vilifeandstyle.com/behind-the-ridge-road-mural-with-artist-ruben-vanterpool/

Local Culture and Flavor
Only 13.5 miles long (a bit over a half marathon) and 3 miles wide (a quick 5K race), Tortola is home to the capital city of Road Town, affectionally deemed “The Small Town with a Big Heart.” The name derives from the nautical term “the roads,” a place less sheltered than a harbor but in which ships may lie at anchor. You'll discover a relaxed lifestyle and peaceful island culture here in the British Virgin Islands. You can also take part in time-honored traditions.

Road Town is home to the beautiful J.R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens which features close to three acres of indigenous and exotic plants, trees and herbs.

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The capital is also filled with restaurants, shops, and is the site for the hospital, government administration offices and official Governor's House with its historical museum. Just behind Waterfront Drive is Main Street, a peep into the BVI's architectural past, which still has many historic buildings and churches, charming cafes, and curio shops as well as the Virgin Islands Folk Museum. (Closed until further notice, it apparently was damaged during Irma, which is really too bad, because it allegedly showcased some pretty neat archeological finds.)

At the site of the Mount Healthy Windmill—the last of its kind—you can get a feel for Tortola's pastoral legacy.
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Cane Garden Bay, treat yourself to a fun history lesson as you discover the age-old art of rum production at Callwood Rum Distillery, which was founded in the mid-1700s. Explore the factory's stone ruins and sample local rums.
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I think it's quite interesting that the description still speaks of Callwood Distillery and Mounty Healthy Windmill, since it doesn't seem that any port adventures visit those spots any more. The additional information about Road Town being home to the botanical gardens, ect. came from the BVI government webpage. It's interesting to see what they feel like is really noteworthy.

It will also be quite interesting to see what port adventures will be offered next year, because who knows what impact COVID will have on these businesses, which is one of the reasons that it feels pretty imperative that we get past the port shops and farther into town to support some smaller local businesses.

Last year I watched a PBS special of "Samantha Brown's Places to Love" when she visits the British Islands. This was many many months before we even considered taking a Caribbean cruise, so when I found out that we would be going to Tortola, I knew that I wanted to visit the Soggy Dollar bar on Jost Van Dyke Island's White Bay Beach. White Bay Beach claims that it is consistently ranked in the top 25 beaches in the world (which I totally believe, but who would be the expert on all worldwide beaches to create a list?)
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As legend has it in 1615 the Dutch pirate Joost Van Dyk settled on the British Virgin Island of Tortola where he began trading with Spanish settlers in Puerto Rico. In 1625 Van Dyk participated in a Dutch led attack on a Spanish treasure fleet spurring a full Spanish assault of Tortola. Captain Joost Van Dyk himself escaped to the island that would later bear his name, using its harbour’s as refuge and shelter from the Spanish ships passing by.

The Soggy Dollar bar that I want to visit is appropriately named because when built there was neither road nor dock. (There is now a road from Belle Vue, but still no dock). To reach the beach where the bar is located, it is a common practice for boaters to anchor off the beach, swim to shore, and pay for their drinks with wet money. It's home to the original Painkiller, which they claim is "the essence of Caribbean imbibing." World Class Beach with Epitome of Caribbean Cocktails... seems like a good cruise experience to me. (They are currently open at 10 AM, but I'm sure they adjust their hours to cruise ship passenger schedules.)
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The Jost Van Dyke Beach Transfer has historically left really early and arrived back to the ship by 12 PM. I think this would work really well for us. It would give us the opportunity to explore Tortola more or let the boys rest back onboard. There is also a local bakery that opens quite early (7 AM) to cater to ferry passengers called Sugar and Spice. Super authentic patties made by Joan. I read about her in an article that was discussing how the locals were recovering from Hurricane Irma. They will often deliver breakfast to yachts by boat. I do want to reach out to her to see which way is the best way to find her with two little boys in tow, but I did read that the walk over to her is one of the most scenic in the BVI. (As a note, if we end up doing the longer beach day, we will definitely be skipping the lunch and making our way to Corsairs or Sydney's Peace and Love, because it looks like they both have lobster on the menu.)

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I certainly wouldn't be sad drinking and eating my way through Jost Van Dyke all day, but there are a few other things I wouldn't mind seeing on Tortola, such as the aforementioned botanical gardens, which is within an easy easy walking distance from the ship. If we have time, I sure would like to go to Callwood Distillery for a moment, because it sure does capture the essence of the history of the Caribbean. I've read that safari taxis are plentiful at the port.
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I would hope that we would pass the Ridge Road Mural, which is 300 feet of 23 panels (one panel shown above), which was meant to be an outdoor museum so that everyone would have access to it and learn about the culture of Tortola. The visitors would be able to come and see what life was like and what the country is all about.

There is also the North Shore Seashell "Museum," but I don't think we will have time to get there, but we will see how the day goes, we want to play it by ear and take it easy.
 
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Not surprisingly, about 83% of food is imported to the Caribbean islands. The Bahamas also imports the majority of their food. According to last available data, Bahamas’ food imports were valued at $1.1 billion. I discovered this information when researching local dishes (and then subsequently how it seemed a bit challenging to actually find a lot of places serving these dishes.) I suppose I point this out to say.... although good food can definitely be found on the islands, these destinations are not likely to be culinary meccas. But that won't stop us from trying to go out of our way to experience some local flavor.

Food is our favorite way to experience the culture of a place.

“Food for us comes from our relatives, whether they have wings or fins or roots. That is how we consider food. Food has a culture. It has a history. It has a story. It has relationships.” - Wionona LaDuke
 
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