External flashes

[disneyboy2003]

I looked into your camera and the external flash (the Canon HF-DC1). I'm not sure that your camera is able to use any other external flash.

Usually when we think of "external flash", folks with DSLRs refer to a flash unit that attaches directly to the camera. This "external flash" communicates directly with the camera and usually sits on a specific "hot shoe" on top of the DSLR camera.

The Canon HF-DC1 doesn't attach to your camera (except by a screw-on bracket) and doesn't communicate directly with your camera. The only way the Canon HF-DC1 knows to fire a flash is if it detects your own camera's flash first.

There are a couple disadvantages to this. First, if someone else's camera flash goes off, so will your HF-DC1 flash. Because the HF-DC1 flash is not directly communicating with your camera, it has no way of knowing whose camera actually fired a flash. It will fire a flash at the same time that another flash is detected.

Second, because the HF-DC1 flash has nothing to do with your camera, it also will not affect the time required for your camera's flash to recharge. You'll still go through the frustrating wait times for your flash to recharge.

Unfortunately, the long flash recharge times are very typical of many / all point-and-shoot cameras.

However, if/when you decide to go with a DSLR and buy an external flash for the DSLR, you'll be able to fire multiple bursts of flash while taking a burst of photos. That's what paparazzi do all the time!

 

[LizAgna]

Thank you!! It doesn't sound like the external flash will solve my problem then.

What about batteries? Are there some batteries that are better than others as far as charging the flash faster?

I love my camera...it takes great pictures but the charging time is very annoying. For example when we are at the character meals I like to take at least 2 pics just to make sure I get a good one but with this flash recharge I felt like we were taking too much time!!

 

[BVC4us]

I have a SB600 but it doesn't work well. What settings should I have it on? What am I doing wrong? The flash goes but the picture is dark unless I direct it right on the subject & that defeats the purpose. Thanks

 

[mabas9395]

Can you post a sample?

 

[wenrob]

Are you trying to fire off a bunch of shots at once? Did you somehow knock the exposure compensation down? Put it on minimum power? What are your camera settings? Your lighting conditions? We're going to need more info in order to help out.

I can vouch that SB600 is an awesome flash and I've never had to point at anyone directly ever (well, not on purpose...) except when using as fill outside.

 

[BVC4us]

Thanks for the answers so far. I used it today and got a few nice pics. I guess I will have to "play" with it in different situations to see what works best.

 

[Experiment_626]

With the SB 600, in most cases you want the mode to be "TTL BL." What camera body are you using?

I also use an SB 600, and have been quite happy with it.

 

[handicap18]

We'd have to see some sample shots and what the EXIF data is with it. I've had my SB-600 for about 3 1/2 years now and have never had a problem with it.

I mostly use a diffuser with it. My most common settings are to have the flash in the TTL-BL mode (camera must be in Center Point or Matrix Metering to get this mode) and my settings on the camera are ISO400, f/5.6, 1/60th. Again this is my most common setting. It will change based on setting/lighting, but this will do you well a lot of times. My diffuser is the Gary Fong Lightsphere II Inverted Dome diffuser and have typically have it on with the flash pointed straight up.

 

[Brad M]

Congratulations on the SB600. I have 2 of them and have never had any trouble (that was the flash's fault anyway). They are very versitile and using Nikon's CLS system (only certain camera bodies) can easily be used off-camera which can greatly enhance your results. I use them up close for portraits shot through an umbrella and also have great results lighting half a gym (although CLS won't work for this, camera too far from flash...requires radio triggers). Glad to hear you figured out the issue you were having. I expect you'll be happy as you learn the SB600's capabilities.

If you're interested in learning about CLS, here's a short video on how to set it up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omWEVXGi4g4

 

[BVC4us]

Thanks again for posting all your answers. My sister in law posted this question under my name when we got together for Christmas. I told her how awesome these Disney boards are and how she will get a response almost immediately. I will pass this on to her...maybe she will join this wonderful board.

 

[dansamy]

Since we have some Pentax shooters, I'll ask ya'll too. I presently have the kit lenses. The 18-55mm and the 55-300mm sold with the Pentax K-x. I would like a few decent (I'm not terribly picky, soft still counts as decent to me) pictures with no flash inside the dark rides. Would I be better off looking for a "faster" lens? Or can I trust the high ISO (6400-12800) capabilities of the camera to capture a fair shot in the darker rides, even with my slower lenses?

 

[ukcatfan]

I recently bought the K-x myself. I believe that at 12800 you might get decent shots with the kit. I do have to say that the FA 50mm f/1.4 is a pretty nice lens for less than $200. There are tons of used manual focus 50mm lenses out there as well for around $100 or less. Manual focus is often needed in dark rides anyway.

 

[disneyboy2003]

I'm not a Pentax shooter, so I'll defer to ukcatfan's & Groucho's wisdom & experience with Pentax cameras.

However, in general, I'd recommend faster lenses (ie. lenses with large apertures / small f-numbers) over the super-high ISOs. With those super-high ISOs, you run the risk of very grainy, poor quality photos.

With fast lenses, you can then shoot at more-usable ISOs, like ISO 1600. I don't know the details about the new Pentax K-x, but I'm sure you can probably & safely push the ISO to 3200 and still get decent quality photos. Despite most manufacturers' marketing claims, I'd hesitate to go any higher than ISO 3200 with today's DSLRs, unless you've got a full-frame camera.

(Then again, I've got a Canon 40D, so I can't shoot any higher than ISO 1600. So take my advice with a huge grain of salt.)

 

[PhotographyDR]

I would also side on the faster lens. While the high ISO will get you the shot. You will have some grain in it. Unless you are on the high pro Cameras like the Nikon D3S. Besides a basic prime (i.e. 50 mm f1.8 or 1.4) should be not that expensive and will bring a lot more light into that camera.. Then you have so much more with the camera itself. I have a f1.8 and still needed to push my Nikon D300 to ISO 3200 or 6400 all the time. These rides are dark and in order to get the correct shutter speed to not get blur I needed ever amount of light I could. Hope it helps.

 

[zackiedawg]

Both answers above are basically right - first off, YES, with the KX you can shoot at ISO6400 and still get surprisingly great results, and even at 12800 you can push it and get something usable. The sensor in the KX (also shared in the Sony A500, and a similar sensor design in the Sony A550 that I use currently) is very capable at high ISO and will give you the ability even with the kit lens to shoot on some of the medium dark rides with nice results.

However, even with that excellent sensor, you may still want to consider a cheap low light lens, as it will make a world of difference. First off, you'll be able to shoot on the VERY dark rides, which often require apertures of F1.4-1.7 AND ISO6400. Second, with the bigger aperture, you'll get better exposed shots at ISO3200 and 6400 which will result in much better image quality and lower noise (underexposure is what creates the worst noise, and makes the camera use noise reduction to compensate...so even with a camera that shoots very well at ISO6400, you'll see better results with a properly-exposed ISO6400 than an underexposed ISO6400). And third, you may be able to use ISO1600 or 3200 with that bigger aperture, which will give you even better results with the KX than forcing the higher ISOs, as good as they are (ISO6400 may be excellent with the KX, but ISO1600 is even better!).

I shot a ton with my A550 on dark rides last month at ISO3200 and 6400, using a Sigma 30mm F1.4 - the results were way beyond expectation and everything I'd hoped for...though I can use ISO12800 if I really needed to, it was nice to not have to - and at ISO6400 and F1.7 or so, I could shoot dark scenes I've never been able to get before and still see great detail and very low noise, since the shots were not underexposed and pushed up in post processing.

So I too would recommend grabbing a low light lens to go along with your excellent high ISO capability.

 

[Golf4food]

www.cameralensrentals.com rents Pentax lenses banana for very reasonable prices so why not just rent a nice fast lens to take with you just for those dark rides? There is no substitute for good glass - bumping ISO is no replacement for a f/1.4 lens of good calibre.

For instance, they will rent you the Pentax 50mm f/1.4 smcP-FA for ten days for only $28.

The Pentax 55mm f/1.4 DA SDM for ten days for $70.

If you are a first time renter from them use the code CLR and get 10% off your first order.

I used them in September to play with the Pentax 35mm f/2.8 smcP-DA Macro and loved it. Great service.

 

[dansamy]

www.cameralensrentals.com rents Pentax lenses banana for very reasonable prices so why not just rent a nice fast lens to take with you just for those dark rides? There is no substitute for good glass - bumping ISO is no replacement for a f/1.4 lens of good calibre.

For instance, they will rent you the Pentax 50mm f/1.4 smcP-FA for ten days for only $28.

The Pentax 55mm f/1.4 DA SDM for ten days for $70.

If you are a first time renter from them use the code CLR and get 10% off your first order.

I used them in September to play with the Pentax 35mm f/2.8 smcP-DA Macro and loved it. Great service.

What a wonderful suggestion! I NEVER considered being able to rent a lens!! Happy dance:

We are only going for 4 days. So a 7-day rental would cover it, which is even less expensive.

 

[ukcatfan]

I would say to go for the FA 50mm f/1.4 for $28 if you rent. I just do not think that the cost of the SDM lens is worth it.

I would seriously consider a used 50mm though. I originally bought a SMC-A 50mm f/2 for around $50 and it was definitely worth it. Sure, it is not as good as the 50mm I have now and is MF, but for the price it is good. I even held on to it, so now I have a 50mm to throw in the kit for my old K100D. It is going to be the kids "learning" camera. Our middle DD seems very interested in photography.

Note: For MF lenses, the SMC-A will allow you to use the aperture control on the camera. Some of the other mount versions will need you to set the aperture on the lens and will require you to stop the lens down to meter, which makes an extra step and takes longer. That is not to say that there are not some incredible lenses in that lineup though.

 

[dansamy]

I don't know that I can see well enough to focus accurately manually. My vision, uncorrected, is in the -5's. I've not tried to manually focus anything yet. I might have to try.

 

[ukcatfan]

I don't know that I can see well enough to focus accurately manually. My vision, uncorrected, is in the -5's. I've not tried to manually focus anything yet. I might have to try.

On some of the really dark rides, I get the best results resorting to MF even with my AF lens. Rides like HM and POTC are really dark and the AF system often just cannot react fast enough. I have not tried with my K-x yet though. It is an upgraded AF system compared to my K100D. It is best if you can find a way to do MF b/c there is going to be some situations where you will need it.