DVC Ask vs Bid. I'm the boss, need the info...

Roveer

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Can anyone share some info on Ask vs Bid on DVC resales. Based on some of the listings I see on TTS what is reasonable to bid? 1 dollar less than the listing, 2 dollars less? I know if the bid is to low than ROFR will kick in, but I don't want to overpay. I hate haggling, but you know what. It's a new economy and I don't have a $$$ to spare. Would be interested in any insight here. Looks like we will buy BCV or BWV resale so I'm interested in getting some good numbers for my spreadsheet. Gotta figure out how much stuff I have to sell so we can see the mouse!!! :smickey:
 
Can anyone share some info on Ask vs Bid on DVC resales. Based on some of the listings I see on TTS what is reasonable to bid? 1 dollar less than the listing, 2 dollars less? I know if the bid is to low than ROFR will kick in, but I don't want to overpay. I hate haggling, but you know what. It's a new economy and I don't have a $$$ to spare. Would be interested in any insight here. Looks like we will buy BCV or BWV resale so I'm interested in getting some good numbers for my spreadsheet. Gotta figure out how much stuff I have to sell so we can see the mouse!!! :smickey:

The two resale experiences I have are with Jaki from **********.com and TTS, one of the board sponsers. With both companies I believe you can ask them something like, "I'd like to offer $2 less per point than what the seller is asking. Do you think that will pass ROFR." I have found both companies to be very forthright, and willing to give a straight answer. Also, check the ROFR thread on these boards to see what the recent trends with Disney's ROFR have been. You can see there the facts for times Disney has waived ROFR and times that they have used it. This will give you an idea of where your offer stands.
 
That's difficult to say. First and foremost since you don't want ROFR to kick in you should look at prices that are passing and also talk to the agent who will be able to give you feedback on what they have seen recently.

From there - it's all up to you on how much you want that particular contract. I'd do an offer that was just above the ROFR levels if I wanted less risk of ROFR. The seller does not have to accept and that will depend on their situation - ie, are they selling b/c they have to, or are they looking to get more and are needing to sell.

You may not like haggling, but are you willing to risk not getting the contract? If so, offer lower and see if the seller accepts and if Disney lets it pass and try and save some money!
 
Take a look at Pass / Didn't Pass ROFR thread by Donald is #1; here is the link
last updated on 7/30


http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1960185


It will give you an idea of what bids have made it through ROFR ( or not ) by resort. When you're looking over resale contract prices this info may be of help for you to decide if you want to offer less than asking price, etc.

Best wishes to you & sending pixie dust your way that you'll
find the contact that is just right for you pixiedust:
 

If you're not in an immediate hurry to purchase, try bidding at less than asking price with the realization that your bid might be rejected, or ROFR'd. Each seller has different motivations for selling. There are bargains to be had but it may take a few cycles to sniff them out.

Good luck!
 
When I first started looking at DVC I had the impression that points were points. At first I really didn't understand that their are nuances. Points amounts, Use Year, Banked, Borrowed, Resort all make each sale very unique and that coupled with the motivation of the seller all determine what the selling price (or ROFR point) will be.

I am having a hard time determining what a good deal is for me. The only part I have a handle on is Resort. We will decide that during our upcoming visit. I don't have a good handle on use year as right now. All I can see is that having it before we would typically visit WDW is important. I can see most of our visists being in April and then summer months. So haveing a use year in July probably not be good. Having one in September-February would be better. Anyone want to add to this:

Also I don't have a good handle on buying a contract that already has banked or available points, other than the fact that they are available right away. I'm guessing that this means that I'd be paying maintenance fees right away (unless it was negotiated in the sale). Let's say I didn't need the points until April 2010 (which I'd probably have a hard time booking based on 11 month advance, then I wouldn't need the points until after the first of the year so in order to avoide 09 maint fees it might make sense to buy a contract with a UY after Jan 1? Is this a valid strategdy or is there more to it than that? Since we will be in WDW in 15 days we won't be going back until after the first of the year. Of course having 08 points means I could bank them and then have more days for upcoming trips. So many ways to look at it. Guess this comes down to how much you can afford.

Share with me some stratedgies to consider. I obscess over this now so when I'm staring at a contract I'm not filled with a million questions and end up with the dull stare:confused:. I want to concentrate on the cost and have all these issues throught through. Thanks for your help.
 
You have the general idea about UY. If your travel will be in April or the summer months then a Feb, Mar or April UY will be the most ideal in allowing rescheduling or banking should you ever need to cancel a trip. Even a Dec. UY requires banking by July 31st so that may not be the best if you are thinking about trips in August. Ideally you would like a UY that allows banking after your preferred vacation times. Feb has a Sept banking deadline, Mar has an Oct. and April has a Nov.

Maintenance fees can also be part of the negotiation and vary from seller to seller. On both our resale contracts we received banked previous year points for "free" and then payed the prorated dues on the current year points. I say for "free" b/c many times the price per point has been adjusted depending on the amount of points that are available. Others have negotiated for no dues on current year points, and of course if the contract is stripped then you wouldn't agree to pay dues even though the seller may still owe something.

My suggestion is to 1) decide where you want to buy. 2) decide what UY's will work for you. 3) decide how many points you want to purchase 4) decide what your top price is you are willing to pay for that contract. I say it that way b/c usually the smaller contracts will sell for more per point and larger contracts will have a few dollars discount due to a smaller demand. 5) Start watching the resales and see what becomes available that fits your criteria. When there's something close then you can make an offer that works for you and see if it works for the seller as well.
 
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When you are looking at the resale contract, knowing when you will next travel can be important.

If you find a contract that has current UY points and you know you won't need them until next year, you can always ask the seller, as part of your negotiations to bank those points for you (so you can be assured that they will be there for your use--just in case your close to the deadline).

Everything in an offer is negotiable. I have both bought and sold contracts. When I bought, I did it in January and paid the yearly MF's. When I sold, it wasn't until August (and I had not many current UY points left) so I covered the MF's for the that year.

As suggested, the best plan is to pick what you want and then watch for a contract that fits your needs. You can contact the resale brokers and get on their email lists so you have up to date information on what is available.

Good luck!
 
I'm just going to add some detail to Use Year subject, since other posters here have covered other points well so no point in me reiterating those things :)

There isn't January, May, July or November Use Years.

~Ideally what you are trying to do when deciding on UY is to pick one where you will not travel during the last 4 months of that Use Year.

~You would want to be in a situation where you could bank CURRENT UY points providing you've cancelled 31 days or more to checkin OR

~where you'd be able to have the most time until the end of UY to re-utilize banked or borrowed points used in your ressie (because these points are never rebankable or returnable to UY they're originally from) and
if your cancellation happened from 30 days thru 1 day before checkin then
you'd have CURRENT UY points to use before end of UY as well because they'd then be unbankable also.

You mention April and summer months for travel; these UYs would do the following for you :

-------BANK CURRENT PTS-----------------------USE BANKED,BORROWED,Non-Bankable CURRENT--------

FEB..................9/30 ..........................1/31
MAR ................10/31 ........................ 2/28-29
APR..................11/30 ....................... 3/31
JUN .................1/31......................... 5/31
AUG..................3/31..........................7/31
SEPT................4/30..........................8/31
OCT..................5/31.........................9/30
DEC...................7/31........................11/30

Having April UY covers you well for travel during April & summer months, leaves you until Nov. 30 to bank & following March 31st to re-use points that were banked &/or borrowed in your original ressie and if any current UY points were rendered unbankable if you cancelled less than 31 days to checkin - so if for example

4/1/2009 you received your 2009 UY allotment of points to be used in 8/31/2009 reservation & also borrowed points from 2010 UY are used in reservation but you cancelled on 7/31/2009 ( 31 days before checkin ).....

then CURRENT UY points ( from 2009 allotment ) can be banked by 11/30/2009
OR re-used in a new reservation with a checkout no later than 4/1/10

AND borrowed points ( from 2010 allotment ) would need to be re-used in
a new reservation with a checkout no later than 4/1/10 - -
(same would apply if banked points from 2008 UY allotment are in this reservation)

APRIL UY gives you over 6 months to re-use points that you could
not otherwise bank on a cancelled late summer reservation.

August UY could work too but not as well as April because if you cancelled an April ressie less than 31 days or if the ressie has banked &/or borrowed you only have about 4 months before reaching end of UY to reuse those points.
 
We recently bought resale through TSS. I had wanted to pay $70/pt for my contract at SS and a listing came through at $74. I discussed with my salesperson and made an offer for $70. The seller responded that he was going to lose money on the deal if he lowered his price. My salesperson talked to me about it and suggested that he call back and offer to split the difference. Seller took $72! So, with about 10 minutes of additional work I saved $280 on my contract.
 
Good to know. I'll be sure to consider this when/if we deal with TTS.
 
Can anyone share some info on Ask vs Bid on DVC resales. Based on some of the listings I see on TTS what is reasonable to bid? 1 dollar less than the listing, 2 dollars less? I know if the bid is to low than ROFR will kick in, but I don't want to overpay. I hate haggling, but you know what. It's a new economy and I don't have a $$$ to spare. Would be interested in any insight here. Looks like we will buy BCV or BWV resale so I'm interested in getting some good numbers for my spreadsheet. Gotta figure out how much stuff I have to sell so we can see the mouse!!! :smickey:


Tough questions as there are so many variables involved. Be advised that small point listings (25 to 75 points) typically sell at a premium price as so many buyers looking to add on while a 300 point listing at the same resort might sell for much less. Also those listings with banked points from previous years typically sell for more then listings that don't have any points coming until the next year. If you decide to work with The Timeshare Store, Inc.® the associates will be happy to go over what has sold recently and what has made it through ROFR and what was bought back.

Good luck in your search.

Jason
 















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