OK, tutorial.
For materials, besides the ruffler, you will need approximately 15 yards of wide (between 6" and 10") strips. This sounds like a lot, but if you take 3 yards of 45" fabric and cut it lengthwise in 9" strips, you will get 15 yards of fabric strips right there. If you have a fabric that is direction specific, it's just a lot more cutting/ripping to make the strips.
You will also need either 4 yards of 1" or 1.5" ribbon or of 3" wide strips of a contrasting color.
I admit, I have not customized my ruffler. My length of 15 yards is what works with my ruffler when I make my dresses. You may need less and you may need more. I will try to check my ruffler to see where I have it set at, ratio-wise. A serger would also be a good thing for the hem, because it is going to be LONG.
MAKING THE DRESS:
1. Take the little girl's chest measurement just under her armpits. Add 2" to this measurement for seams and ease. Your first wide strip will be this length. (for example, my dd is 26" around, I cut my first strip 28" long.) THis will be the bodice.
1a. If you want the bodice lined in the same fabric as the exterior, cut a second strip this length and set it aside.
1b. If you want an embroidery on the bodice, this is the time to do it. Just center it on this first strip.
2. Line the bottom of the bodice strip up right sides together with the long strip, and feed the bodice UNDER the ruffler, and the long strip THROUGH the ruffler.
3. Sew until you reach the end of the bodice. At that point, remove the fabric and cut the fabric straight off at the end of the seam.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, but with the bottom of the skirt where the bodice was.
5. If the dress is not long enough after a second ruffle, add a third ruffle, repating step 4.
6. Now we are going to do the straps and sash: Cut the strips or ribbon into four 1/2 yard lengths and one 2 yard length.
6a. If you used a contrasting fabric in 3" wide strips, sew each strip into a tube, closing one end of each of the 18" strips and both ends of the 2 yard long strip. (does this make sense?)
7. If you want to add piping, pin the piping, matching raw edges and right sides to the top of the bodice.
Measure the little girl to see how far from the center you want your straps to be. Fold the bodice in half and set your straps (the 18" strips) That distance from the center seam. in the "back" at the raw seam, set your straps that distance plus .5" (for seams) from the raw edge.
8. On top of this "strap and piping" sandwich, place the lining bodice piece, right sides together, and sew along the top seam.
9. Open the bodice and lining. You should have what looks like a big long rectangle with an open skirt attached to it.
9a. At this point, if you haven't yet, you may want to finish your seams. I tend NOT to finish the seam between the bodice and lining, because I like to have some extra strap length inside the dress, as I feel like it adds to the sturdiness of the straps.
10.place the raw edges going up the back right sides together, lining up the seams going down the dress. Sew everything together and finish the back seam.
11. Finish the raw edge of the bodice lining.
12. Turn the dress right side out, and tuck the bodice into the dress. Top stitch along the top of the dress.
13. Line the sash so its bottom runs along the seam between the bodice and the skirt, and so that it is centered on the center front of the bodice. carefully, while trying to catch the bodice lining in your stitches on the inside of your dress, sew the sash to the dress around to the point that would be under the arms, leaving the tails of the bodice loos, so you can tie them in the back.
14. Hem the bottom of your dress. I like to use a rolled edge on the serger, as it is a lot quicker, and there will be a LOT of fabric on the bottom of the dress. The hem usually takes me the longest amout of time.
15. Your dress is done!!
I hope this makes sense.