Determined! to get better night time pics at WDW (att'd examples)

[MARY-IN-OH]

Hi (again!)
(sorry in advance, I ended up pretty long winded today for some reason).

So, I've been to Disney three times in the past year, and I have taken a "ba-zillion" pics in Disney. I love Disney at night, and try to capture it in my pictures, but the pics that I take just don't do it justice. Some come out "ok" and some are even "good" But, I need "great" !!

If I am using a Cool Pix (Nikon) (model starts with a "5" something) camera, can I get better pictures? I really do love to put my camera in my front pocket and go, would rather not have to spend money on a newer camera, and also, I feel like I'd need to go to school to learn how to use something more advanced (I only understand some of what you guys are talking about in some of these threads!)...

And - do you guys walk around with tripods? I know they would be better in that "scene" mode I use that brings in all that light (flash off) but takes forever plus a perfectly still hand. (I am pretty darn still but just can't quite get it).

The worst of them are the parades and stuff like POC, (movement and lights ) I get a lot of awful swirls of light - - but then, right next to me, I see someone with an ordinary looking P&S digital - and I can see how their picture comes out, and it's fine! Even good !! - - How do they do that and what do they do?!

One more thing, do you think some people just have a "knack" for picture taking and some people should just not try to be "a photographer" - and just how does one know when they can say they ARE a photographer.....
Thanks!
-mary

The Bad

And I'm getting some better ones every now and then (still too orangey and dark though don't you think?):

Oh - and here is a shot I really want!! - - Can you tell what it is, yeah I know - pretty bad!! Yep, the fake waterfall at the beginning of pirates...
thanks again,

 

[YEKCIM]

If you are willing to use a tripod, even a small table top one, you can get some pretty good shots of *stationary* subjects. Moving subjects in dim light are a whole 'nother matter (Alabama-speak). Even with a good dSLR and fast (wide maximum aperture = greater light-gathering capability), it's a challenge, believe me. As has been stated here several times, a point-n-shoot camera, no matter how good it is, is limited by the smaller sensor that they all are blessed/cursed with (blessed = size / cursed = low light performance). They just do not do all that well in low light, particularly with moving subjects, due to the slower shutter speed that is required.

Beyond those suggestions, I would also recommend that you study your manual, particularly the sections on exposure, and try some experiments. Try using your camera on a tripod (or other sturdy support), at night, in conditions that might be judged to be similar to lighting conditions at WDW, and try various different exposures. Practicing at your leisure will, I'm almost certain, pay off when you are in a position to put your research to use on for-keeps subjects. Also, you can use subject blur to your advantage. A picture of Main Street at night, made using a long-ish exposure and a support (tripod, table top, railing, trash can, whatever) could give you a sharp, clear image of the static subjects (store fronts, lights, castle, etc) while the hustle and bustle of people moving would be a blur, which would carry the connotation of...guess what...moving people! I've never tried that actual shot, but think it would be cool...perhaps from the train station platform that overlooks Main Street.

Anyway, I hope that helps. I'm sure some of the more seasoned photog's among us will drop by to add his/her views.

~YEKCIM

Oh, and this is purely a personal view, but you might try turning off the date stamp... I personally find them very distracting.

 

[gokenin]

Anyway, I hope that helps. I'm sure some of the more seasoned photog's among us will drop by to add his/her views.

~YEKCIM

Oh, and this is purely a personal view, but you might try turning off the date stamp... I personally find them very distracting.

yeah because you are not a seasoned photog hopes that some of my pics turn out as good as yours or some of the other regular posters

 

[deletedpenguin]

High ISO, high ISO, high ISO!!! You'll get a faster shutter speed and you can always degrain later. Even alot of the point and shoot cameras have an ISO setting hidden somewhere in the menu. Also, instead of dragging around a big tripod, check out the Gorillapod. It's fantastic, especially for smaller cameras. It gives you alot of versatility, ie. not necessarily needing a flat surface.

 

[ukcatfan]

The worst of them are the parades and stuff like POC, (movement and lights ) I get a lot of awful swirls of light - - but then, right next to me, I see someone with an ordinary looking P&S digital - and I can see how their picture comes out, and it's fine! Even good !! - - How do they do that and what do they do?!

That is because the small screen does not show much detail. When their shot is full size, it is not going to be any good unless they are just plain lucky. I doubt that there is a p&s around that can do POTC , HM, etc. Like it was already said, it is tough even with a DSLR with a wide aperture lens.

Kevin

 

[AndrewWG]

That is because the small screen does not show much detail. When their shot is full size, it is not going to be any good unless they are just plain lucky. I doubt that there is a p&s around that can do POTC , HM, etc. Like it was already said, it is tough even with a DSLR with a wide aperture lens.

Kevin

It is possible that they used flash on those rides! Of course, we all know that that is a no-no. I can't wait to try out the 50mm f1.8 in those rides. I like a good no flash challenge. As far as the p&s cameras, I agree that without flash, they won't do you any good on those rides.

 

[ukcatfan]

It is possible that they used flash on those rides! Of course, we all know that that is a no-no. I can't wait to try out the 50mm f1.8 in those rides. I like a good no flash challenge. As far as the p&s cameras, I agree that without flash, they won't do you any good on those rides.

The OP is considering a K100D Super based on a different thread, so I want to add about that lineup.

The Pentax is a f/1.4, so even a little faster. There are f/1.4 models available for Canon, Nikon, Etc. but those models are typically over $300. The Pentax one is usually around $175, but there is often a $25 rebate. That does make it about $50-75 more than the C&N f/1.8 models, but the camera itself from Pentax is much less than the C&N models.

Kevin

 

[Master Mason]

Your last one on the wish list is a pretty tough shot to get.

Here is my best so far

 

[SharonLowe]

Some hints/tips for night photography in general, no matter the camera. And, I won't repeat what others have said re: tripod, etc.

1 - Best time to shoot is 30 minutes before sunrise/after sunset. That is when you get the nice dark blue sky. And, with a high ISO and wide aperture, it is possible to hand hold those for stationary objects (but not really recommended).

2 - That orange color at night is due to sodium vapor lights and can be offset by setting your white balance to tungsten or fluorescent. If you don't have those settings, you might have an indoor (no flash) setting that would achieve similar results. Of course, many of us shoot raw and adjust with photoshop or other programs. The one that came with your camera might be able to work for you.

3 - Motion can be your friend but you have to really let it flow. Your first parade photo could have been really cool for about 1 second longer or if you had tried to pan.

Good night photography takes lots of practice so try it at home and enjoy!

 

[MARY-IN-OH]

Hi, I am keeping notes with your suggestions. I'll check my manual and camera settings this weekend, and I've got some practice shots in mind (like our halloween pumpkin with a color-changing light that goes in it ).

Yep! The lady on POC gettin' those good shots (probably about 20 pictures) had the (triple/red eye reducin' ) flash-flash-flash going constantly and she was sitting right in front of me, so I had no trouble seeing the shots she got !!

Ya know, in a way I guess that I'm looking forward to the challenge. I think I'll appreciate the great ones even more (when I get them).

As long as you guys aren't telling me to give it up, and buy postcards I'm going to keep clicking - and I'm going to try to work the camera upgrade (maybe the pentax) into the budget!

MasterMason's picture in POC is just an "x" on my work PC, can anyone else see the picture? I'll take a look when I get home later.
-mary

 

[05MM08MM]

Do you have a "night shot" or "night scene" setting on your camera? Not sure if that would help, but you could try it, and you can adjust settings for those selections also.

 

[boBQuincy]

Your last one on the wish list is a pretty tough shot to get.

Here is my best so far

Here's mine.

As you say, it's a really tough shot to get! This was with a 10-22 lens set at 22mm, 0.4s @ f/4.5, ISO 1600, exp comp - 1-1/3

 

[Groucho]

Yep! The lady on POC gettin' those good shots (probably about 20 pictures) had the (triple/red eye reducin' ) flash-flash-flash going constantly and she was sitting right in front of me, so I had no trouble seeing the shots she got !!

The shots may look good from a quick glance on the LCD, but viewed on the PC, you'll see some extremely unflattering photos of the ride, showing details that you're not supposed to see. The ride is designed to be seen in the dark, not under a harsh flash light. Furthermore, the woman was probably annoying everyone else tremendously with her darn red-eye reduction and LCD lighting up all the time. If you're going to take on-ride photos - no flash and please set your camera to not show your photo on the LCD right after taking it.

The Davy Jones head is tough. I only tried it once, in September at Disneyland. This is ISO 1600, F1.8, and 1/30th of a second. Don't feel bad about poor results with a PnS, no PnS can get decent results at ISO 1600 and they can't go as bright as F1.8 - and this is hardly an impressive shot (it didn't make it into my online gallery.)

On the other hand, night photos of static things like architecture should be fairly easy with almost any camera, using a long shutter speed, low ISO, 2-second delay, and some sort of support for the camera, from a tripod to just setting down on something solid.

 

[DisneySuiteFreak]

3 - Motion can be your friend but you have to really let it flow. Your first parade photo could have been really cool for about 1 second longer or if you had tried to pan.

Good night photography takes lots of practice so try it at home and enjoy!

Sharonlowe, how fas do you pan the camera? Exactly what does it mean to pan it. Does it mean to follow the moving target or just an left to right or ???

 

[milliepie]

Not sure if this helps, but I took video of this and then cut stills out from the video. They came out ok I guess. Maybe you can try that?

 

[MARY-IN-OH]

Not sure if this helps, but I took video of this and then cut stills out from the video. They came out ok I guess. Maybe you can try that?

that's awesome! - and, I was just wondering about how camcorder video would turn out!
-mary