Canon 550D (Rebel T2i, Kiss X4)

[zackiedawg]

Mainly the areas that will work out best for that type of shooting would be a good, fast frame rate, and decent high ISO capability (hockey rinks have decent lighting usually, but if you're sticking only with more basic kit lenses then you'll need more ISO to shoot faster shutter speeds with slower lenses).

The Nikon D90 is a solid choice, as it is good at both high ISO, and shoots at a decent 4.5fps continuous mode.

The Nikon D5000 also might work for you, as it is just about as good at high ISO, and just a wee bit slower.

The Pentax KX is worth a look, at 4.7fps continuous shooting and very good high ISO performance, and it's one of the bargains price-wise.

The Sony A500 and A550 are worth a look, again with very good high ISO performance, and 5 frames per second continuous shooting mode...and in the case of the A550, a special 7fps continuous mode.

Canon's 550D is a wee bit slow on the continuous shooting compared to these others, but is as good with high ISO...the 7D is plenty fast and capable, but outside your price target.

So in this case, I'd probably narrow your look down to the Nikon D90, Pentax KX, and Sony A500 & 550. The Pentax and Sony both might have one extra little perk that can help you with regards to the basic kit lenses or combo lenses you pick up, since both have their stabilization in-body - meaning even the kit lenses and cheap lenses have the benefit of stabilization.

The next most important step would be to handle these three, and see how they feel...they are all different sizes, grip styles, weights, etc. - and everyone has different likes and needs. You may find one of these cameras just feels better to you...and since they're all very capable for far more than your current needs, they'd all be great choices with plenty of room to grow.

 

[disneyboy2003]

In case you were considering Canon, zackiedawg's right in that the Canon 7D would be great at 8 frames-per-second, but the price of the Canon 7D body itself (without a lens) is $1699.

The other Canon dSLR to consider would be the Canon 50D, which can shoot at 6.3 frames-per-second. The Canon 50D would be the camera that is comparable to the Nikon D90. The Canon 50D (body only) is about $975.

For ice hockey, you'll need a camera & lens combination that can help with fast-paced, low-light situations. For fast-paced, your camera should have a high frames-per-second (fps), probably around 3-5 fps.

For low-light, there are 2 things you'll need: (1) increase the ISO, which, in simple terms, makes your camera's sensor more sensitive to light, and (2) buy a lens that lets in a lot of light (ie. a lens with a large aperture). All cameras allow you to change the ISO, so there's nothing unique about this feature. Choosing a lens, however, can be a little more complicated.

I'm not sure if you're familiar with photography terms, so if you are, then please skip this paragraph. A large aperture lets more light into your camera. Aperture is measured in f-stops. It may seem confusing at first, but a small f-number indicates a large aperture size. Conversely, a large f-number indicates a small aperture size.

In your case, you're looking for a lens with a large aperture (small f-number). Ideally, you should look for lenses with apertures that are at least f/2.8 or larger (ie. f-number 2.8 or smaller). If you had all the money in the world, then a lens such as the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens would be great for ice hockey because of the large f/2.8 aperture. Nikon's version of this lens costs $2200.

Perhaps a more affordable lens option would be to consider prime lenses that also have large apertures. Prime lenses are fixed-focal length lenses, meaning that they don't zoom. Prime lenses also tend to have larger apertures than zoom lenses, too, so they'll let more light into your camera.

Here are some examples of Canon's prime lenses with large apertures (I'm sure Nikon has equivalent prime lenses, too):

• Canon 50mm f/1.8, $100 - your best value! (link to B&H)
• Canon 50mm f/1.4, $370 (link to B&H)
• Canon 85mm f/1.8, $379 (link to B&H)
• Canon 100mm f/2, $435 (link to B&H)

Note the larger apertures (smaller f-numbers) of these lenses. All these apertures are larger than f/2.8 (ie. all the f-numbers are smaller than f/2.8). That's what you're looking for.

Anyway, that's what you should be looking for in a camera / lens combination: a camera body with high frames-per-second and a lens with a large aperture.

Hope that helps!

 

[zackiedawg]

The other Canon dSLR to consider would be the Canon 50D, which can shoot at 6.3 frames-per-second. The Canon 50D would be the camera that is comparable to the Nikon D90. The Canon 50D (body only) is about $975.

Oops...forgot about that one fitting into the price range! Didn't mean to leave Canon out of the final mix.

For low-light, there are 2 things you'll need: (1) increase the ISO, which, in simple terms, makes your camera's sensor more sensitive to light, and (2) buy a lens that lets in a lot of light (ie. a lens with a large aperture). All cameras allow you to change the ISO, so there's nothing unique about this feature.

Agreed - the extra info will hopefully be very helpful to the OP. It did sound based on the post that there wasn't really much intention at this point to be looking at good fast glass, which would be pretty pricey...that's why I was sticking to cameras that can handle high ISOs...I figure the likelihood was that the OP will be looking for a basic 70-200mm type package lens, not likely to be much better than F6.3 or so on the tele end...so with the lens that slow, having a camera that can shoot pretty clean at ISO800-1600 is going to be needed!

The nicer lens is something to grow into for sure, and will definitely help...when the budget allows for some lens acquisition syndrome to kick in!

 

[MELISAZACK]

Wow! thanks for all the information.. Price is a factor, I wish it wasn't but...
thanks for the information - Like I said not camera savay so all this is really helping!

 

[MELISAZACK]

Ok you all have been very helpful.. One more question.
What are your thoughs on the Pentax KX - I have looked at a few places who sell it and the price is soooo much better. I just want to makes sure the pics will be good though and it can capture the speed of a hockey game.

What do you all think!

 

[AlbertZeroK]

I just sold my d90 and currently have both a canon 50d and canon t2i.

I would suggest highly the canon t2i which unlike the 50d, does video. Unfortunately, the t2i comes with a crappy kit lens (18-55). I'd see about picking up the 28-135 lens that comes with cameras like the 50d and 7d, they can be had for about $300 or less on ebay or used.

Remember too, that with a better camera, you'll need better memory cards. Budget $100 for memory cards whatever camera you buy!

 

[VVFF]

I just sold my d90 and currently have both a canon 50d and canon t2i.

I would suggest highly the canon t2i which unlike the 50d, does video. Unfortunately, the t2i comes with a crappy kit lens (18-55). I'd see about picking up the 28-135 lens that comes with cameras like the 50d and 7d, they can be had for about $300 or less on ebay or used.

Remember too, that with a better camera, you'll need better memory cards. Budget $100 for memory cards whatever camera you buy!

I don't think I would call the 18-55mm IS crappy. It has great image stabilization, is a very sharp lens and is nice and compact. It's entry level sure so you can't expect USM or it to not rotate during focusing but its definitely not crappy.

 

[zackiedawg]

Ok you all have been very helpful.. One more question.
What are your thoughs on the Pentax KX - I have looked at a few places who sell it and the price is soooo much better. I just want to makes sure the pics will be good though and it can capture the speed of a hockey game.

What do you all think!

The KX speed-wise would have no problem with something like Hockey. The lens choice will be key for you - find one better than the kit lens with some more telephoto range...but if you're not going to be a serious photography enthusiast, don't worry too much about having to buy an expensive 'fast' lens despite much advice otherwise. While all that advice is true - they will be better lenses, and the bigger apertures will help in low light situations...the Kx is capable enough at high ISOs to make it easy to shoot at ISO1600 or 3200 and still retain good detail and low noise...so you can still get by with a cheaper telephoto lens.

At 4.5fps the burst mode is fine on the Kx, and the focus speed is fast and seems to be very accurate...it is well reviewed. There are no indicators in the viewfinder for focus confirmation, but you still have an audible focus confirmation beep, so this should suffice for most people. The in-body stabilization won't make players stand still, but it will help counter any shake or movement from you, again helping you buy a cheaper lens since you don't need the stabilization in the body. And with the right batteries (don't use normal AA batteries in the Kx - use good rechargeables or Lithiums like Eneloops) the battery life is excellent on the Kx, with around 1,000 shots rating.

The live view system isn't really usable for those situations on the Kx, so as long as you don't want or need live view, you should be just fine. It has a slow live view more usable for still shots on tripods, helping get better focus - it can't shoot casually. Most DSLR users use the viewfinder anyway, as the stance and stability are better. Live view is only usable for sports and movement in Sony, so ignore mention of it in any other DSLR.

Overall, the Kx is a highly rated camera, excellent reviews, well featured for the money, and fast...plus has very good high ISO performance. If you like the way it feels in your hand, and like the price, it should be a fine choice.

 

[ukcatfan]

I just sold my d90 and currently have both a canon 50d and canon t2i.

I would suggest highly the canon t2i which unlike the 50d, does video. Unfortunately, the t2i comes with a crappy kit lens (18-55). I'd see about picking up the 28-135 lens that comes with cameras like the 50d and 7d, they can be had for about $300 or less on ebay or used.

Remember too, that with a better camera, you'll need better memory cards. Budget $100 for memory cards whatever camera you buy!

I don't think I would call the 18-55mm IS crappy. It has great image stabilization, is a very sharp lens and is nice and compact. It's entry level sure so you can't expect USM or it to not rotate during focusing but its definitely not crappy.

I would not call it crappy because the optics are just fine. It is not very well built though. Even handling it in a store, it feels like it just will not last. You can expect more out of a kit lens though. The Pentax kit is much better built and does not have a rotating front element. The one on the K-x does not come with a hood like it used to on older models, but that is about my only complaint. I stole the hood off the kit lens from my K100d, so all is good

I would not believe that a whole $100 is needed for memory. I have 20GB total devoted to my K-x and feel like I have more than enough. I only have about $55 invested in it. Check Newegg and Buy.com for good deals. I really like Kingston for the brand.

 

[photo_chick]

I would suggest highly the canon t2i which unlike the 50d, does video. Unfortunately, the t2i comes with a crappy kit lens (18-55).

It's not a bad lens, it's just an entry level lens. It can produce really great images in the right hands.

 

[VVFF]

I would not call it crappy because the optics are just fine. It is not very well built though. Even handling it in a store, it feels like it just will not last.

While I suppose it doesn't feel the best, I've never heard of one breaking. Better than "fine" sharpness as well!

 

[bob100]

I just sold my d90 and currently have both a canon 50d and canon t2i.

I would suggest highly the canon t2i which unlike the 50d, does video. Unfortunately, the t2i comes with a crappy kit lens (18-55). I'd see about picking up the 28-135 lens that comes with cameras like the 50d and 7d, they can be had for about $300 or less on ebay or used.

Remember too, that with a better camera, you'll need better memory cards. Budget $100 for memory cards whatever camera you buy!

Canon 50D and T2i (550D) - you are covered for both sports and high def video. But that "crappy kit lens 18-55IS) - it actually gets good reviews and is significantly sharper than the 28-135 (on a crop model)
www.photozone.de
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/...IComp=0&APIComp=0&LensComp=116&CameraComp=474

 

[ukcatfan]

I would not call it crappy because the optics are just fine. It is not very well built though. Even handling it in a store, it feels like it just will not last.

While I suppose it doesn't feel the best, I've never heard of one breaking. Better than "fine" sharpness as well!

I do not think it will break through normal usage. I think it has less than average durability in the case of an accident. This is no dig at Canon because they did that on purpose. They make a lot of their money on lens sales so they make the kit lens less desirable over time. They and Nikon have that luxury as the market leaders. Companies like Pentax and Olympus do not so they offer a kit that you really can use for a long time. Sony is somewhere in the middle I guess because I have heard people saying that their kit a bit better than C&N, but not as nice as it could be.

As for the optics, you misinterpreted my use of the word fine. I meant that there are no problems with the optics. I was not assigning a grade level to them (i.e. poor, decent, fine, excellent, etc.).

 

[jkluttrell]

Here is a sight where you can compare cameras you are thinking: http://snapsort.com/compare

And while I have not purchased a DSLR yet, I have found this website helpful in helping me make a decision.

 

[Geoff_M]

In your case, you're looking for a lens with a large aperture (small f-number). Ideally, you should look for lenses with apertures that are at least f/2.8 or larger (ie. f-number 2.8 or smaller). If you had all the money in the world, then a lens such as the 70-200mm f/2.8 lens would be great for ice hockey because of the large f/2.8 aperture. Nikon's version of this lens costs $2200.

I have one son playing travel and one playing high school hockey. In order to effectively take ice hockey photos without using strobes the arena, you will need a camera with good performance at 1600 ISO and a lens with a maximum aperture of f2.8. In most of the barns that you will play in with ISO 1600 at f2.8 will get you a shutter speed of around 1/500 sec. This is about the minimum speed you can use for ice hockey. Slower than that and the motion blur get real bad fast. Image stabilization won't help you. IS will only get you blurry players on crisp ice. My 80-200 f2.8 is my "bread-n-butter" lens for hockey. This lens "only" runs around $1,200. Also, don't get too hung up on frame-rates. I usually "single punch" frames for peak action instead of just laying on the shutter release even though my body will do 8 fps. I don't go much for the "spray and pray" method.

I use a Nikon D300 and absolutely love it for hockey. Here's an example gallery.

 

[MELISAZACK]

Well I bought the Nikon d5000 this weekend and got the extra 70-200mm lens.
no slave flash yet though. Tried it yesterday at the tournament and it did well. Was able to get the shots some blurry and some crisp. I think it was more of me as the handler then anything..
I need to learn how to be quick and zoom in and out and all that faster than I did. Maybe I will get better with time. I also think the extra flash will help since under the constant shutter mode you can't use the camera flash.
I would love to share a photo but I only have it saved on my file drive here and can't get it over onto the post to show you one..

 

[DizzyV6P]

Did you get the Nikon 70-200 F/2.8? Just curious since that lens costs more than the D5000 itself.

You might also consider putting the drive mode into AI Servo to help with focusing on your shots. Consider putting the focus point to center only. If the D5000 can quickly switch focus points, you can switch to the top one when holding it vertically to ensure you focus on the face.

The flash will be good for portraits and other general shots, but is useless for hockey. You'll just end up getting a reflection off the pexiglass. Put your ISO at 800 or 1600 depending on your lens and lighting conditions.

Don't forget to over-expose by one or two stops depending on how bright the arena is, otherwise the ice will look grey instead of white.

Enjoy shooting hockey. It's HARD. I shoot my daughter's figure skating practices still find it challenging. The only way to get better at panning and catching the action is to practice, practice, practice. Good luck!

 

[DisFam95]

My friend is looking for a new DSLR. She has an old Rebel so needs to stick w/ the Canon's due to lenses.

I looked at the canon site but the only big difference I saw was all the MP sizes. The fps were slight, and of course the price. Their new site gave very limited details in their "compare" function in fact they all loked the same except the items mentioned already.

So between the

XS

XSi

T1i

T2i

Any big differences??

Thanks!

 

[rtphokie]

The biggest difference is max resolution and ISO capabilities (all support at least 1600, some higher), each will handle SD cards, some handle others and the LCD screens are slightly different on each (size and resolution)

You can compare the specs on these pages:

XS aka 1000D

XSi aka 450D

T1i aka 500D

T2i aka 550D

It's also handy to compare them side by side here

 

[VVFF]

My friend is looking for a new DSLR. She has an old Rebel so needs to stick w/ the Canon's due to lenses.

I looked at the canon site but the only big difference I saw was all the MP sizes. The fps were slight, and of course the price. Their new site gave very limited details in their "compare" function in fact they all loked the same except the items mentioned already.

So between the

XS

XSi

T1i

T2i

Any big differences??

Thanks!

The PP links are great for all the differences, I'll try to give a quick summary of the bigger differences:

XS - Baseline

XSi - Bigger screen, Live view, 12MP sensor vs. 10MP in XS

T1i - Higher resolution screen, 15MP sensor vs. 12MP in XSi, 1080p/720p video(1080p only 20fps), higher ISO ability(3200-12800)

T2i - 3:2 aspect ratio screen means a bigger display of your images on the back and during live view. 18MP Sensor vs. 15MP is T1i. Better high ISO ability, better video capabilities(usuable 1080p), better metering.