Wednesday, May 13th - Five Bistro Novelty Hill Wine Dinner, St. Louis, MO
I must admit that this was not my first choice of available specialty dinners this month ... I really wanted to attend the Guest Chef dinner being held the following week at Oceano Bistro because that one sounded like it was right up both our alleys. Unfortunately Jay's schedule got a last minute re-arrange (I guess I should be thankful that he remembered to tell me -

) and instead of working late on the 20th he's working late on the 21st ... the same night as the chef's dinner we'd already reserved.
So, I chose this dinner instead because it was being held in a small bistro waaaay down in the city of St. Louis that we'd talked about trying; only problem is that it's about a 70-mile roundtrip to get there and back from our humble homestead on the less stinky fringes of outer Stinktown. Five Bistro is actually moving from its current location to a new, more spacious location on the Hill; for those of you not familiar with Stinktown (and that may be all of you, bless your hearts) the Hill is an enclave of very good Italian restuarants scattered around the Hampton / I-44 areas of the city of St. Louis. It's an even longer way for us to drive so I reasoned that if we were ever going to give this place a try, now would be the time to do it.
So we did, because Jay is nothing if not easy-going. "Gotta eat," is his response every time I ask about giving one of these wine dinners a whirl. What more could a food geek ask for in a lovey hubby?
We were the last to arrive that evening, which was warm and sultry ... a hair-raising batch of severe spring weather was marching across the state but luckily held off hitting our area until we'd made it safely back home around 10:30PM. Jay and I were seated at our own table, which was kind of nice - it looked like there were about 20 guests all total and all parties were seated with themselves so no one had to worry about awkward stranger chats, which I know from experience are often much less uncomfortable after three or four glasses of wine.
The first thing that I noticed was that there was one guy - presumably the sommelier - wandering from table to table with a bottle of wine. He stopped to talk with each table individually rather than addressing the group as a whole. While this made for a nice personalized approach to the evening, it was really annoying to wait ten minutes for that first glass of wine while he was monopolized by someone who already had
their booze. The other thing that I noticed was that no one from the restaurant came out to discuss the menu / wine selections in advance of the first course, or in fact, during any course. I'm probably just being picky, but I like to know how the chef and sommelier choose the pairings and why. I missed having that during this dinner.
Also, it was a little discouraging not to have a winery representative in attendance to tell us all more about Novelty Hill wines. I guess if I cared more I would google them and give you all kinds of interesting information, but I wasn't all that bowled over by their wines. Quite frankly we've had better wines from Washington State and while these were OK, none of them had that "WOW!" factor that I was hoping for.
I guess I should just give up the idea that anyone in St. Louis is going to use Fro-Zin, huh?
Upon delivery of the first course, Jay and I found ourselves in what we like to call "Food Network Judge Mode" and the evening was off to a critical and hilarious start. Our appetizer was a
Saffron Risotto with Rissi Farm Grilled Asparagus, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Thyme paired with a 2007 Noveltu Hill Viognier.
There were chunks of 'goose worked into the risotto along with the parmesan cheese, and overall the dish was pretty tasty. However, the 'goose was grilled to the point of being charred, so oftentimes I tasted the grill rather than the vegetable. And while I do like risotto, when this much cheese is worked into the dish I find that it becomes gacky and congealed unless eaten quickly, which is not something that I typically like to do. I will say that it tasted wonderful with the wine, which was a little funky by itself but opened up tremendously with food. As for presentation, Jay and I both agreed that there was too much "negative space" on the plate - this should have been served in a smaller dish, maybe even a small pot or bowl that could have held the heat a little longer.
The Appetizer
Our second course of the evening was a salad, more specifically,
Field Greens with Boiled Eggs, Olives, Radishes, and Citrus Vinaigrette served with a 2006 Novelty Hill Chardonnay.
As many of you may remember, I don't like olives. So as soon as this dish was placed before me I began digging through it to find the offending olives so that I could offload them to Jay's plate. I can't say that I was disappointed to only find
one olive in my salad but it was pretty darn funny to compare it to Jay's salad which had ten ... yes,
ten, olives. And none of the olives were pitted, so that made for a rather indelicate search and rescue mission each time that Jay ate one. As for the radishes, my salad was chock full of them while there were precious few in Jay's. In our best Food Network voices Jay and I stated that the preparation was decidedly uneven and rushed. I also chimed in with the comment that the vinaigrette was far too citrus-ey and needed to be tempered with something, probably a little garlic, to counter the sourness. I will go on record as saying that the Chardonnay seved with this course was excellent, probably the best wine of the evening in my humble and uninformed opinion.
The Salad
And now comes the platter of meaty goodness. The third course was the one I thought would be the most interesting, and it did not disappoint. The menu listed this as follows:
Housemade Charcuterie including Pate, Sausages, Head Cheese, Proscuitto, and Coppa with Poached Cherries and Grain Mustard, served with a 2005 Novelty Hill Merlot.
The Platter o' Meats
From left to right in the picture above you will see proscuitto, coppa, pate, sausages, and head cheese. I'm going to assume you can all tell the difference between the mustard and the cherries.
Where oh where do I start? The proscuitto was good but very, very salty and there was nothing sweet to offset that. You might be thinking, "hey, you dolt - try the cherries if you need something sweet," and I did actually do just that ... sadly, the cherries (which look like boiled bugs in that picture) had been sitting too close to the head cheese and tasted like salty meat rather than soft sweet-tart fruit. BLECH! What I wouldn't have given for some fresh, sweet cantaloupe instead of that mess of cherries. The coppa was tasty, although it had an almost musty after-taste and the sausage was excellent, especially with the mustard. I didn't care for the pate ... if it ain't seared and served over fruit with some fancy-schmancy sauce then I'm not interested. And the head cheese ... ICK ICK ICK!!! I tried it, because that's the rule, but the taste was overpowering and not even a Merlot Mouthwash could completely eradicate the flavor.
And I would like to lodge a formal complaint right now ... there is nothing approaching cheese in head cheese and I suggest that the makers of it find a new name because it's incredibly misleading. Although I will grant that the "head" part of the name is at least accurate.
And hey ... didja see my cute little Coach bag on the table in that picture?
The fourth course of the evening, also known as the entree' was
Grilled Prairie Grass Farm Leg of Lamb, Roasted Baby Potatoes, Ozark Forest Mushrooms, and Lehr Farm Spinach paired with a 2006 Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon.
Lamb is not my meat of choice but I try to be open about trying it because I know so many people who just lurve lurve lurve it. The presentation was actually quite nice and the serving size was generous but all I could taste of this dish was salt. I don't know if it was the sauce or if someone in the kitchen over-treated the meat, but I could only eat a few bites of it before handing my plate over to Jay, who thought the course was delightful. I really think that my tastebuds were just "off" this evening because everything I tried seemed to have very strong flavors, even the wine. After a while it was almost overpowering and I had a difficult time enjoying the meal.
The salting of the lambs
The dessert course was a
Walnut Spice Cake with Vanilla Cream and Blackberry Ice Cream paired with a 2005 Novelty Hill Syrah. I wish they'd chosen an ice wine or a port with this instead of Syrah ... oh well, at least Jay liked it. Jay really ended up with about 8 glasses of wine during the course of the evening because too much red wine gives Bendy a baaaaad headache. Let me think ... what can I tell you about the dessert? Well, again the presentation was definitely lacking - there's a whole lotta negative space on that plate. And the Vanilla Cream was the best part of the entire dish if you ask me ... it was feather light with a delicate vanilla flavor ... the cake was a bit dry and chock full of walnuts which I don't like for many reasons and the blackberry ice cream tasted like coffee. Yes, I said coffee. Now, had this been coffee ice cream I wouldn't complain, but this was supposed to be fruity ice cream and mine did not taste like fruit at all ... I couldn't help but wonder if someone had scorched the blackberries while preparing the ice cream base. I was not impressed which is really too bad because I usually adore dessert.
Dessert
Overall impressions?
It wasn't bad and if Jay were writing this he would tell you that it was quite good. So I should qualify my statement by saying that the food was good but certainly not to my personal taste. However, I do think it's fair to say that the presentation of many of these dishes was uninspired and the assembly of the individual portions was uneven at best. I also think, based on my specific tastings, that the cooking was uneven as well. As for the wines, they were "meh", and no refills were offered or provided.
I'm glad that we tried this restaurant and this pairing but neither one of us are chomping at the bit to pay them another visit any time soon. Personally I'm looking forward to the wine dinner we've booked for May 27th - that one is primarily seafood and I think both Jay and I will be much happier with that menu than with this one.
Thanks for reading and for letting me share!
