Asking the experts: Refinancing?

dizcrazy

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Jan 22, 2004
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Like most, I can honestly say that I have saved TONS of money thanks to the experts on these boards!

And yes, most tips helped me save on, save for, and plan my trip to the World (MOUSESAVERS RULES!!!) but I've also benefited from your words of wisdom.

So, can anyone give me some tips about refinancing? Are there a lot of extra fees for closing costs? is anything negotiable? any links that can help me figure out what we should do?

THANKS
 
There are many refinancing calculators available online. I would estimate $2000 for closing costs. Whether or not its worth it depends on how much your interest rate drops and how long you plan on staying in your current home.

Because all credit inquiries within the same category placed within a 30 day period count as one inquiry, there is no harm in shopping around to get the best combination of fees and interest rate. You can and should shop multiple offers against each other.

-DH
 
Have you checked w/your current lender? They can usually offer pretty good deals on closing costs. Have you looked at Lending Tree? They are supposed to send multiple offers from different lenders. We only got 1 offer but it was a pretty good one. Just depends on the participating lenders. Bankrate - maybe bankrate.com? has several calculators & lots of refinance advice.

Good luck! It's a pain to shop around but worth it to save some extra cash.
 

My advice for re-financiing is not to fall into the trap of lowering your payments by stretching out your loan. When people refinance they are often very suprised at how much a small percentage change can lower their payments. One of the reasons for this is that they start a new 30 year mortgage. So let's say that you have been paying your mortgage each month for 5 years and are paying $1000 per month. Now you lower your rate a percentage point or so and can pay $800 per month. Yes, some of this is because of the lower rate, but alot of it is because you are restarting a new 30 year clock. Instead of 25 years that you had left on your loan, you are taking the principle that you have left and spreading it out for 30, thus less per month. If you are having cash flow issues and really need the money this can be a solution but otherwise you are adding to your loan in the long run.
 
We refinanced after 3 yrs and took our 30 year mortgage down to a 15 yr (this was in 89 when interest rates were around 9%) with just a little bit more per month we had our house paid off in half the time. We always tried to add more to the principal as well and we ended up paying it off in 12 yrs.
 
Originally posted by robsmom
My advice for re-financiing is not to fall into the trap of lowering your payments by stretching out your loan. When people refinance they are often very suprised at how much a small percentage change can lower their payments. One of the reasons for this is that they start a new 30 year mortgage. So let's say that you have been paying your mortgage each month for 5 years and are paying $1000 per month. Now you lower your rate a percentage point or so and can pay $800 per month. Yes, some of this is because of the lower rate, but alot of it is because you are restarting a new 30 year clock. Instead of 25 years that you had left on your loan, you are taking the principle that you have left and spreading it out for 30, thus less per month. If you are having cash flow issues and really need the money this can be a solution but otherwise you are adding to your loan in the long run.

This is good advice often overlooked. Keep in mind that 15 and 30 years are not the only choices. We were 4 years into a 30 and refinanced last year with a 25 year mortgage. So not only did we lower our monthly payment, we also cut one year off the loan.

Steve
 
Originally posted by ceecee
We refinanced after 3 yrs and took our 30 year mortgage down to a 15 yr (this was in 89 when interest rates were around 9%) with just a little bit more per month we had our house paid off in half the time. We always tried to add more to the principal as well and we ended up paying it off in 12 yrs.

Congratulations on your discipline and being mortgage free!

Keep in mind that paying your mortgage off early is only a good idea if you have no other debts with higher interest rates (student loans, car loans, credit card debt, etc.) and if you feel you can not earn a higher return on your money elsewhere. For example, it makes no sense to make extra principal payments on a 6% mortgage if you are carrying a balance on a 12% credit card. Always pay the highest interest debt first.

But if you are otherwise debt free and have the cash, absolutely do as ceecee did and pre-pay the mortgage.

Steve
 
We just refinanced a month ago. The only out of pocket money we needed was the $375 application fee. The rest was put in with the new loan. I think our closing costs were around $5,000. We bought our house two years ago. Our rate dropped from 6 3/4% to 5.5%. We went with a 20 year mortgage. Our payment is only $19 more than the original payment. I hoping that, when we get our income tax money, I can make that extra payment every year and cut the 20 years down to 12-10 years!
 
We refinanced last year and brought our interest rate from 8.5% to 5%--woohoo! We had 17 years left on our 30 year mortgage, and also cut our mortage length to 15 years.

My advice would be to check with local mortgage brokers and don't assume you will get a lower rate or lower closing costs through an Internet mortgage broker or bank. We did a lot of calling around and the internet brokers were considerably higher in closing costs and in interest rates than the local broker we finally used..

Carefully read any contract you are considering signing and DO NOT sign anything that says you agree to pay the mortgage broker any money if you do not accept the mortgage they broker for you. The first broker we used had this clause in the contract! He actually tried to get us to sign the contract by saying he never enforced the clause--instead, I crossed out the clause and he, DH, and I all initialled the cross-out.

Also, make sure you get a written good-faith estimate of all closing costs, and compare the estimate to the actual closing documents. We walked out of our first closing after refusing to sign the closing documents, since they stated our monthly payment would be $100 higher than what the broker had written down on the estimate (yes, the same broker who tried to get us to sign the contract saying we would pay him a fee if we didn't accept the mortgage he found for us!)
 
Depending upon how much equity you have, you may want to consider a home equity loan instead of a conventional mortgage.

We moved into a home we built new in the fall of 2001. Since then we have refinanced 4 times lowering our rate from 8 3/4 to 5.74. We also went from a 30 year to a 20 year term.

This past time we went with Citizens Bank and took out a home equity loan with no points and no closing costs! They also didn't have any prepayment penalty! In addition, when the rates dropped again recently, we called them and they adjusted our payment for the rest of our term at the lower rate!!!! All at no cost to us.

We are now in the process of prepaying our prinicipal and plan to own our home free and clear within 5 years! Can't wait for that day to arrive!!

Check out BankRate.com...you can find out rates in your area and compare lenders and costs and options.

Whatever you decide, good luck to you!!!!
Heather C
 
while multiple inquiries within 30 days aren't supposed to affect your credit score, unfortunately often they do. So while I might want to look around a bit at lenders, I'd be careful about "shopping" too much and having everyone pull my credit.

Many, not all online lenders are notorious for not disclosing all fees, making their rates look real good! like someone above mentioned, they wound up walking from the closing table. IF it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!

A human being is always a better option then an internet based if all other things are pretty equal. And local usually works in your favor since the appraiser, title co etc can be handled all at once
 
Originally posted by Sheree

Many, not all online lenders are notorious for not disclosing all fees, making their rates look real good! like someone above mentioned, they wound up walking from the closing table. IF it sounds too good to be true, it probably is!


Just to clarify my post, the closing we walked away from was through a local broker, not an internet broker (we were able to rule out internet brokers via a few phone calls to them!).

The lousy local broker was recommended to us by a real estate appraiser who is a customer of my husband's. DH told him about our experience, and he was totally mortified :) . He recommended a second broker, who was absolutely wonderful, gave us a good deal, and arranged the closing quickly. It all worked out for the best, since mortgage rates dropped a full 1.5% between our first and second attempts at refinancing.
 
The other thing to consider with online lenders is that some of those businesses are like the sweatshops of the mortgage industry. I filled out an inquiry last summer for one of those we'll have lenders in your area call you and let me tell you there was no way I would have worked with any of those people who called me. You could hear a ton of other people in the background talking away and one of them, everytime another phone would ring, it would create feedback on the line that was used to call me.

We ended up going with our original lender. We were in major financial straights and did not have any money to pay closing costs, so we rolled the closing costs (which typically are 3 to 5% of your total loan) into the mortgage balance. We did go with a 30 year which I know restarted the clock so to speak, but it also saved us over $400 a month (2% lower interest rate) and we were contributing about $100 a month to principal and now about $250 a month goes to principle. I did the math at the time (I am too tired now to remember how I did it.) and figured out how long it would take before we were back to where we would have been without refinancing. It wasn't too long at all, but we had only been in our house for 2 years at that point.
 
Also never go with one monthly payment- switch to weekly. This change alone will shave 7 years off a 25 year term.
 
As far as I know, if you are doing a fixed rate mortgage (such as Federal Home Loan Bank or Veterans Administration) you can only apply one payment per month. The payment schedule is amortized, consequently you pay a full 30 days of interest each month on the ending balance from the preceding month. You can however, make ADDITIONAL principal payments on your loan in most cases and shave a ton off your long term costs. Fixed rate mortgages through FHLB can change their rates 8x a day. So get your paperwork done through a lender that handles secondary market loans - you will probably need appraisal, title work, etc. With rates down somewhat again, appraisers are busy!!! There may be a delay in this so don't expect a home loan in a one week period if you want a 15 - 30 year locked rate!! You want to have your stuff ready so when the rate you want is there they can lock you. We refinanced ours at 4.875 near the bottom of the rates but I know that they were about the same a couple of weeks ago again. (15 year term - the longer the term, the higher the rate). I think they told me a 15 year was in the 5.25 ballpark today. Call around to lenders in your area to find out who does the long-term fixed rates and their costs.

I would not choose my Home Equity as my primary source for my home funding as their rates are normally variable. When rates start to go up, so does your payment on those. Around here, most can change their rates as often as monthly. I also would not go with a shorter term loan, even with a low rate for the same reason.

Our closing costs were written into our loan also, so we didn't have to pay anything out of hand. Yes, that added into our loan, but the rate decrease more than offset it.

Example: If you have a 7% loan @ $150,000 and you have 23 years left on it, you will pay $1094.88/mo for a total of $302,186 (Interest of $152,186).

Rewrite that loan into a 5.25% loan @ $153,000 (including closing costs) you will pay $1229.93 for 15 years for a total of $221,387.40 (Interest of $68,387.40 + 3000 cc = you save over $80,000 by doing that $3000 investment & rewriting your loan!)

Rewrite that loan into a 5.75 (guessing) loan @ $153,000 (incl clcosts) you will pay $1074.19/mo for a total of $257,806 (Interest of $104805 + $3000 cc = you save $44,380 over your current first example).

These are all calculations you can do yourself if you have an estimated closing cost amount, a balance on your loan, your current interest rate and a ballpark rate of what you would get now. Check your banks website to see if they have financial calculators available on their loan pages. A lot of them do. If not, do a search on the web and you should find the same info.

We also wrapped in some credit card debt too - yes we are dumping that on our house but the rate difference more than made it worthwhile for us!

It's all out there - just be smart & shop around!!!! (PS - if you are in my west central WI area, come to my bank - our gals are great!!!) I would definitely call a local lender first. They are your hometown people! They may not all provide those longterm loans, but someone will!
 
Originally posted by jgates
I would not choose my Home Equity as my primary source for my home funding as their rates are normally variable. When rates start to go up, so does your payment on those.

Just to clarify - the earlier comment made by HeatherC was about a Home Equity Loan, not a line of credit. The interest rate on a Loan is fixed. The interest rate on a line of credit is variable.

Steve
 
WOW! My DisBoard pals really are the experts!

Thanks a million!

Another question: we plan on staying in our house at least ten years. Does this mean we should consider paying at least one point?
 
Originally posted by dizcrazy
Another question: we plan on staying in our house at least ten years. Does this mean we should consider paying at least one point?

Certainly consider it. Use the online calculators to run the numbers with and without paying points. Pick the deal that works out best overall.

Steve
 


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