A/C advice

[dvczerfs]

Carrier is a good unit BTW but in the end most brands use the same compressor but may offer lesser of a warranty. The other difference between brands is a 4 ton unit by brand A may go as high as 50,000 BTU and by brand B may go up the rated 48,000 BTU and brand C a little under 48,000 BTU. Does that matter in the end.. maybe not. Another question you must ask is how cool do you want your house.. If you keep it 68 bigger is better and you need to pay for any modifications they may need to be done... If you keep it 75 well in your area 4 tons may be to big... Sometimes a unit will be undersized or oversized to meet needs... oversized for colder undersized if you keep you house warmer so it will run longer to get the humidity out....
A lot of people in the northeast will get for example a 3 ton compressor with a 3.5 ton blower as a humid 80 degree day the unit will run for 10 minutes unless you like it 70 or lower in your house. This is done to undersize the compressor so it runs longer to get the humidity out but the house really requires a 3.5 ton unit to move the air properly.

I had a class in college that the text book we used was the ASHRAE Handbook. I kind of wish I would have gone that direction for a career.

My house would be more comfortable if it had two systems instead of one system for both floors.

Where is your duct system located?

If it's accessible a damper zoning system could allow you to have a separate zone up & down with 1 piece of equipment.

Zoning with units vs zone dampers is the difference between the designers ability to do math and apply industry standards and not. 2 systems is very common but it's such a waste of resources and $$$$$$.

Contact zone first or Arzel directly and they can recommend a contractor in your area.

I've spent some time in Co. It's a rather arid climate, so humidity control is no so important. You could also be at elevation if someone wants to use rules of thumb, they are not who you want working on your stuff. You need to move a lot more air to move heat at elevation, so make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing.

Zoning with units vs zone dampers is the difference between the designers ability to do math and apply industry standards and not. 2 systems is very common but it's such a waste of resources and $$$$$$.

way to sell your product, very professional.

 

[Ed J]

Zoning with units vs zone dampers is the difference between the designers ability to do math and apply industry standards and not. 2 systems is very common but it's such a waste of resources and $$$$$$.

way to sell your product, very professional.

I have nothing to do with the product or sales, the only thing I sell is proper design and conservation of resources.

 

[wendow]

Where is your duct system located?

If it's accessible a damper zoning system could allow you to have a separate zone up & down with 1 piece of equipment.

Zoning with units vs zone dampers is the difference between the designers ability to do math and apply industry standards and not. 2 systems is very common but it's such a waste of resources and $$$$$$.

Contact zone first or Arzel directly and they can recommend a contractor in your area.

I've spent some time in Co. It's a rather arid climate, so humidity control is no so important. You could also be at elevation if someone wants to use rules of thumb, they are not who you want working on your stuff. You need to move a lot more air to move heat at elevation, so make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing.

Our furnace is in the basement. Duct work is all in place already. Heat moves fine in the winter. Yeah, humidity is not a tremendous issue here. We live just outside of Denver so our elevation is about 5400 or so.

 

[manning]

About 4 years ago I installed a high efficiency furnace and central air. I think either 13 or 14 seer. Don't remember which.

Money wasn't the object and the contractor knew it.

I was looking at a seer somewhere around 17 seer or above. Again don't remember the exact number.

I live in the Chicago area.

The contractor suggested to go with the lower seer. He said you have to look at the payback. If I lived in the south he would have recommended the higher seers.

My electric bills are very reasonable. Don't know exactly, I would have to look it up. I would say low $100 at most. Some under.

Things are way different than years ago. I built our house in 1984, a new development. Everyone ran their air conditioners until they started to get the electric bills. Some where around $300 dollars. It got quiet real quick.

I think the minimum seer now is 13/14. Back then I believe it was a single digit number.

Also size it right. Too big and you will feel clammy. Too small and it will never shut off.