What Would You Bring To The Mad Tea Party???

SrisonS

... and that's 'ess-ryzun-ess' (play on my name)
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Jun 9, 2007
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....as in what technique would you use to shoot this....


(Clicking pic takes you to larger version on Flickr, as well as suggestions for capturing this)

I just used 3 exposures (-1, 0, +1) for HDR. I've had someone support the HDR idea, a few suggestions of using the flash, as well as trying a different technique for exposure and composition. Just wondering how everyone would approach this subject!?!?! :confused3
 
being in the shade like that I would use flash or take several pics and blend the exposures in Photoshop
 
Since you are doing HDR why not try to increase your bracketing to over expose the sky and get the topiaries correctly exposed. I hate flash and use it only when I am in a pinch, granted I do not have a speedlight.
 
If you have a decent flash, I would try a fill flash to eliminate the shadows. If your camera has the ability, you can use EV compensation to attempt to eliminate the shadows and blend the photos.
 

I'm for bracketing to overexpose topiaries.
 
For me, it would be HDR for sure -- at least for the scene as shown here. If I had my family in the same shot, I'd probably try fill-flash.
 
I'd use HDR here also, but would try either 5 exposures or 3 bracketed at -2, 0 and +2.

Another thing that might work is going back later in the afternoon. When we were there in December, the sun was setting in a way that I managed to get a shot with even lighting over the whole display. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to make sure all of the topiaries were visible, so it got scrapped, but if you paid attention to your composition I'm sure you could make it work.

Lastly, you could cheat. I love the sky in this one, so you could take two shots---one metering to get a nice blue sky and the other one maybe use spot metering to get a better exposure of the topiaries. If you have Photoshop, layer the two exposures and use the eraser to get the sky to show through to the layer with the nicely exposed topiaries. That could be considered cheating, but I call it creative. :)
 
I'd switch my A550 to HDR mode with a +2, and press the shutter button. Voila! HDR, no post processing! ;)

Even if I didn't have built-in HDR, I'd surrport the HDR blending idea, as I don't really like fill flash too much in outdoor situations.
 
For some really wide range scenes I have found that 5 exposures at 2 stop increments can show some improvement over the normal 0, +2, -2. With full shadow and clear sky this may be a good candidate for more range.
 
For some really wide range scenes I have found that 5 exposures at 2 stop increments can show some improvement over the normal 0, +2, -2. With full shadow and clear sky this may be a good candidate for more range.
How do you like to tackle nighttime scenes with lots of lights in the frame -- say, looking into Tomorrowland after dark on the bridge leading from the hub? Scenes like that see to be trickier to me, especially since the camera won't automatically bracket a longer exposure than 30 seconds. I find I often need a shot or two that is longer than half a minute ... and that I seem to need more exposures at night, in general, than at other times.
 
As I recall from being there, my answer is probably no..... but does there happen to be a time of day when the sun peeks through the trees to provide some natural light on the topiaries???? Maybe late afternoon since they face west??
 
How do you like to tackle nighttime scenes with lots of lights in the frame -- say, looking into Tomorrowland after dark on the bridge leading from the hub? Scenes like that see to be trickier to me, especially since the camera won't automatically bracket a longer exposure than 30 seconds. I find I often need a shot or two that is longer than half a minute ... and that I seem to need more exposures at night, in general, than at other times.

I wanted to get home and check my exifs before answering this, to make sure I wasn't completely in error. I checked the Wega2 for my Feb 2009 WDW trip, where I took a *lot* of HDR sets. In practice I have found very few scenes where 30 seconds is not enough, only eight exposures were at 30 seconds and only two of those needed more (but not much more). In no case was the exposure obviously too dark.

***Update*** I checked my exposures and shutter speeds from WDW Sep 2009 and only 4 (of over 500) were 30 seconds, again these shutter speeds were only slightly less than expected and none appear to be underexposed.
Finally, I checked shutter speeds from a time when I recall there were some *really* long exposures, bingo! The base exposure was 20 seconds, -2 was 6 seconds, + 2 was (of course) 30 seconds and was clearly not as bright as expected. The scene was pretty dark, a waterway at night with hardly any illumination. I was already at f/4.5 and ISO 200, ISO 400 would have helped.

Still, if 30 seconds won't do it we are pretty much stuck with only a few choices: wider aperture; higher ISO; bulb shutter mode. It is easy to tell if we are about to go beyond 30 seconds: if our base exposure is going to be more than 8 seconds then our standard 0, -2, +2 series will result in too long a shutter speed for the brightest exposure. If it is close I don't worry about it, if it is way beyond 30 seconds then I have to try one of the fixes. Exposures longer than 30 seconds are usually more than my patience level can deal with so I haven't tried Bulb yet. ;)

Night scenes with light sources have a *very* wide range of brightnesses, especially if we don't want the light sources to wash out or "bloom". As with all my HDRs I look at the histograms to see if the +/- exposures have no black pixels/no white pixels.
Three exposures usually works ok but more exposures could help a lot sometimes. My camera can take 5 exposures without much trouble, more gets to be a pain so I haven't tried 7 or 9 yet. Canon really needs to offer this option in their consumer cameras, they are currently limited to three exposures and +/- 2 stops max. Of course in Manual we can take as many exposures and as wide a range as we want but what a lot of trouble!
 
Another thing that might work is going back later in the afternoon. When we were there in December, the sun was setting in a way that I managed to get a shot with even lighting over the whole display. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to make sure all of the topiaries were visible, so it got scrapped, but if you paid attention to your composition I'm sure you could make it work.
+1. I would definitely check a different time of the day, or even night!

This shot was taken at 6:19pm:

WDW2009-422.jpg
 


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