What can you tell me about rabbits as pets?

[traces7]

My 11 year old DD wants to get a rabbit. I'm not sure that I'm excited about the idea, but thought I'd ask here, since we have no idea what having a rabbit involves.

Do they need yearly (or more often) vaccinations and/or vet checkups? How about nail and teeth trimming, do you do it yourself or take it to the vet?

Would you have one inside your house? My DD wants to have it in her room, but we were also considering the basement. We were looking at some bigger cages on wheels. Also do they smell? (we never had a problem with the hamster smelling.)

How much do you spend on them per month approximately? What kind of food and bedding?

We had a hamster a few years ago and DD did good with that (as far as taking care of it). We also have a dog, how would that go? I know we'd have to keep the dog away from the rabbit, I think her instinct would be to chase it!

Where would be the best place to get a rabbit? Not many pet shops around here have them. We've seen a lot at the animal shelters, just looking online.

Can you tell me anything else about them, good and bad? Or any other advice? Thanks so much! I'm still up in the air about the whole thing!

 

[The Mystery Machine]

A rabbit is not like a hamster. More like a cat. My brother's GF has a rabbit. Her rabbit hops around the room. His bed is in the living room & she has a "set-up". She got her rabbit from rescue.

I know there are rabbit owners here on the boards to help.

If you have to keep the dog away from the rabbit it is probably not a good pet for you to get for your dd. That would be too stressful.

 

[kirbsam]

dont let me see that rabbit near my house...ahhh, hossenfeffer...

 

[LuvOrlando]

My DF's kids had them and like all rodents, they don't hold 'it' so they 'go' all day every day wherever they are. My DF couldn't take the mess so they ended up building their bunnies a cute little setup in the backyard complete with a fenced in portion of the yard, a dog house & plenty of veggies to munch on. They even had leashes so they could be tied up in other spots to hang out and enjoy a new view. They were taken in when it got particularly nasty out but enjoyed a life outdoors most of the time. Well this went well for a few years except last year all 3 were picked up one by one by a neighborhood fox. Before the fox incident I would say the bunnies had the best life ever.

Don't get me wrong, I love animals. But certain animals, including rodents, are really high maintainence so make sure you realize what you are getting into and are prepared for the mess before you make the leap. I wish someone had warned me about the mess before I got my kids hamsters so I'm just doing what i wish someone had done for me. In my case it was just too much.

 

[PrincessSuzanne]

They are expensive pets and not good for children to care for alone.

They don't require vaccination, but do require yearly vet check ups with a vet that specializes in rabbits, not just any vet will do. We have to drive 2.5 hours to take our rabbit to the vet. If they get sick, their care isn't cheap. My 2 babies got some kind of infection in their feet and after it was all said and done, I spent well over $1,000 and still had to have both put to sleep. We adopted another rabbit since, but we don't have children.

I trim my rabbits nails myself, but you need to be properly trained. You should never trim their teeth, they should never need that to be done, especially if they have proper care (unlimited hay, a good high fiber, timothy hay based pellet, and wood chew toys).

I use Timothy complete from Kaytee and it is $10 for 5lbs, hay, which can be expensive and we don't have access to the fresh stuff. Toys, fresh veggies and limited fruit (find a list for those that are rabbit safe, lettuce is deadly). Mine is litter trained and has a huge cage in our den, they aren't safe outside, besides being very vunerable to heat and cold weather. My baby has a baby blanket and a small carpet, along with her hay burrow box (a huge cat litter pan full of hay) and a small regular litter box.

My baby doesn't smell, but you do need to change the litter regularly. Please don't put one outside, as I stated above they are very vulnerable to the weather as well as prey. And they shouldn't be in a pen. We built a cage ourselves for approx $100 that is 2.5ft by 6ft, because they need alot of room. She is also let out to have run around time, even though she is closed in our kitchen because it is the safest room in our house, because they chew.

Check out the House Rabbits Society website before you make a decision and if you choose a rabbit for a pet, please choose adoption, there are so many displaced rabbits in shelters and rabbit adoption homes.

If you have anymore questions, I would be happy to help, we have been rabbit parents for more than 10 years now.

Suzanne

 

[PrincessSuzanne]

My DF's kids had them and like all rodents, they don't hold 'it' so they 'go' all day every day wherever they are. My DF couldn't take the mess so they ended up building their bunnies a cute little setup in the backyard complete with a fenced in portion of the yard, a dog house & plenty of veggies to munch on. They even had leashes so they could be tied up in other spots to hang out and enjoy a new view. They were taken in when it got particularly nasty out but enjoyed a life outdoors most of the time. Well this went well for a few years except last year all 3 were picked up one by one by a neighborhood fox. Before the fox incident I would say the bunnies had the best life ever.

Don't get me wrong, I love animals. But certain animals, including rodents, are really high maintainence so make sure you realize what you are getting into and are prepared for the mess before you make the leap. I wish someone had warned me about the mess before I got my kids hamsters so I'm just doing what i wish someone had done for me. In my case it was just too much.

Rabbits are NOT rodents and should never be treated as such.

Suzanne

 

[Joyciemc]

PrincessSuzanne about summed up what I was going to say!

I second the House Rabbit Society's website- great info on there! www.rabbit.org

I buy my hay at a feed/grain store by the bale. One bale costs about $7 and lasts me a few months for my two buns. As long as you keep it dry, it will keep for a long time.

Their cages are large dog crates and that is where they are when I am not home or not able to supervise them. They interact very well with my cats and dog (if your dog has a high prey drive, this might not be true for you!)

And just to clarify, rabbits are not rodents, they are lagamorphs. They can 'hold' it and take to using a litter pan pretty well, though do tend to drop fecal pellets to mark territory especially if they are not spayed or neutered.

I work at an animal shelter and we always have several rabbits up for adoption. Many of them come to us because a child lost interest. Please consider the adult's commitment to a new pet before adding one to the family!

 

[Luv Bunnies]

Rabbits are NOT rodents and should never be treated as such.

Suzanne

Very true! Rabbits are not rodents. They are classified as lagomorphs which means their teeth grow constantly whereas rodent's teeth do not (interesting bit of bunny trivia).

I've had rabbits off and on for over 35 years. Right now I have 4 rescued bunnies that I adopted from a no-kill rabbit shelter. Here's what I can tell you about keeping them as pets.

They must be kept indoors. It used to be the norm to keep them outside in hutches but the rabbit community knows now to keep them indoors. They are fragile and are very sensitive to hot and cold weather. They can also be killed by predators and stress. Even a curious dog can cause a rabbit to have a sudden heart attack. They can also catch deadly diseases from insects such as mosquitos. Rabbits should be kept in a cage or pen that is at least 6 times their size so they have room to move around. They can be easily litterbox trained and are neat and clean animals who prefer to go in one spot. Just observe which corner they use and put the box there. Only use pelleted litter designed for small animals (Critter Country is my favorite brand). Do not use cat litters, especially the clay type. They really prefer to do their business in the litterbox so one should always be available to them. If they are out playing, you should keep a litterbox outside of their cage or keep their cage door open so they can hop in and out. I think I've only been peed on twice by a rabbit in all the years I've had them!

Nail trims aren't that difficult if you learn how to do them. Keep some QuikStop stiptic power (available at pet stores) nearby in case you cut too low. This will stop the bleeding immediately. Teeth only need to be trimmed if the rabbit has a condition called malocclusion where the teeth don't grow evenly. The shelter should have already checked for this condition before you adopt a rabbit so you'll know going in if you'll need a monthly vet visit for teeth trimming. It's not that common so don't worry about it but do ask before adopting.

Rabbits up to 6 months old should have alfalfa pellets and hay. After 6 months, they should be switched to Timothy pellets and hay since alfalfa has too much calcium and can cause kidney stones in adult rabbits. The best brand of pellets is Oxbox. Be sure the bag says Timothy pellets. I also buy Oxbox or Kaytee Timothy hay. Pellets should be limited to 1/4 - 1/2 a cup a day, depending on the rabbit's size. Hay should be unlimited and plentiful. Certain veggies can be fed daily including romaine lettuce (no iceberg), parsley and cilantro. Carrots are considered a treat because of their high sugar content. Some fruits are OK as treats. The House Rabbit Society website has a list of approved veggies and fruits.

Rabbits do not need vaccinations but, for their health and behavior, it is imperative that you have them spayed or neutered. An unspayed female has an 85% chance of getting reproductive cancer by age 5 and it is almost always deadly. Neutering males will not only improve their health but will erase many undesirable behaviors that they develop as teenagers (about 4-6 months). We fostered some baby males last year and when they hit puberty, they started spraying urine everywhere, digging, biting and chasing the female in their pen (we removed her right away). They were some stinky little bunnies and I was constantly cleaning their pen. We sent them back to the shelter to be neutered and they returned a week later as perfect gentlemen! It takes up to a month for the hormones to leave their system completely but they were well on their way after a week. They were so clean and polite that we decided to adopt them when we originally intended just to foster them!

There are so many bunnies in shelters needing homes that I never advocate buying from a pet store. Pet store bunnies are usually the product of over-bred females who produce litter after litter. The babies are not generally checked by a vet before being sold so you don't know what you're getting. A shelter bunny will have clean bill of health from a vet and will usually be evaluated for behavior by a knowledgeable bunny person. The shelter I adopt from has a write-up on each bunny explaining their personality, likes and dislikes and whether bunny will be suitable for kids. Speaking of kids, a child should never be the primary caretaker of a bunny. They're fragile animals and if kids handle or play with them, they should always be supervised by an adult. If a bunny doesn't feel secure when picked up, he may thrash around, scratch the holder and jump or be dropped. They can very easily break their back, leg or hip. Also, bunnies don't tend to be as responsive as cats or dogs. Some will come when called, but it can take a bunny up to a year to completely warm up to a new environment or new caretaker. My sister just adopted 2 males in February. One is friendly and easy-going and will allow himself to be picked up. The other is very timid and runs away from people. He's getting better but I think it will take him many more months before he lets his defenses down. My sister is willing to wait him out and let him be himself. Most children won't be that patient and will quickly lose interest in a cowardly bunny. That's why so many end up at shelters.

As you can see, I have a wealth of bunny knowledge! Feel free to ask questions or PM me if you need more info!

 

[kacaju]

we have a house rabbit. Your local 4-H small animal club would be a good place to look for a bunny, your dd could even join the club and learn a lot aobut taking care of her new pet.

 

[cntrygal]

Its one of the few pets you can eat when your child gets tired of caring for it.





Of course this is coming from the person that was only allow to pet that were usefull. Meaning i could have cows, pigs, chicken, turkeys, geese, ducks, because they could be eaten and a cat that sort of found use, because he was a good mouser and kept the mouse population in the barn down.



And that may explain why i havent eaten meat in 20 years. But i still make a mean rabbit stew.

 

[r&kmommy]

We had a rabbit for 3 years and was so much fun! He lived in a large dog crate as a pp uses for her bunnies. He was older when we adopted him (his owner died, the shelter guessed he was 10 years old) ... he died overnite, we don't know what happened to him. He was eating and "playing" just before we went to bed. Vet said probably just old age since he was healthy and eating/playing/drinking normally before he died.

eta - he was a chewer, as most rabbits are, so he was not allowed free reign of the house or even any rooms. He was out of the cage a few hours per day running around, and he'd sit on our laps while we watched tv.

Anyway, I am not sure I agree with the "no bunnies outside" people. My aunt had 3 bunnies who lived in a hutch out back for a LONG time... 15 years or so (they were adopted littermates approx 1 year old) And this was in New England! They had covered hutch, tons of hay filled 2x day, 2 enclosed parts that shielded them from the weather, and had a solid floor except for one small section that was tiny holed chicken wire which they "potty trained" and learned that's where they had to do potty. (not sure how she got that to work? LOL!) They got veggies/fruit treats every day and also fresh water (obviously)

Anyway, they make great pets as long as you know what to expect. Definitely too much for a kid to care for themselves, but easy to give little jobs to have them help out kwim?

 

[traces7]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. It's a lot to think about. I know rabbits aren't like hamsters and need more care, etc. My DD has been reading about them, she checked a bunch of books out from the library. We know someone that has a rabbit, we'll probably go talk to her about it. Not sure we'll get one or not! I'll check out the website and if I have more questions I'll let you know. Thanks again!

 

[PrincessSuzanne]

Very true! Rabbits are not rodents. They are classified as lagomorphs which means their teeth grow constantly whereas rodent's teeth do not (interesting bit of bunny trivia).

I've had rabbits off and on for over 35 years. Right now I have 4 rescued bunnies that I adopted from a no-kill rabbit shelter. Here's what I can tell you about keeping them as pets.

They must be kept indoors. It used to be the norm to keep them outside in hutches but the rabbit community knows now to keep them indoors. They are fragile and are very sensitive to hot and cold weather. They can also be killed by predators and stress. Even a curious dog can cause a rabbit to have a sudden heart attack. They can also catch deadly diseases from insects such as mosquitos. Rabbits should be kept in a cage or pen that is at least 6 times their size so they have room to move around. They can be easily litterbox trained and are neat and clean animals who prefer to go in one spot. Just observe which corner they use and put the box there. Only use pelleted litter designed for small animals (Critter Country is my favorite brand). Do not use cat litters, especially the clay type. They really prefer to do their business in the litterbox so one should always be available to them. If they are out playing, you should keep a litterbox outside of their cage or keep their cage door open so they can hop in and out. I think I've only been peed on twice by a rabbit in all the years I've had them!

Nail trims aren't that difficult if you learn how to do them. Keep some QuikStop stiptic power (available at pet stores) nearby in case you cut too low. This will stop the bleeding immediately. Teeth only need to be trimmed if the rabbit has a condition called malocclusion where the teeth don't grow evenly. The shelter should have already checked for this condition before you adopt a rabbit so you'll know going in if you'll need a monthly vet visit for teeth trimming. It's not that common so don't worry about it but do ask before adopting.

Rabbits up to 6 months old should have alfalfa pellets and hay. After 6 months, they should be switched to Timothy pellets and hay since alfalfa has too much calcium and can cause kidney stones in adult rabbits. The best brand of pellets is Oxbox. Be sure the bag says Timothy pellets. I also buy Oxbox or Kaytee Timothy hay. Pellets should be limited to 1/4 - 1/2 a cup a day, depending on the rabbit's size. Hay should be unlimited and plentiful. Certain veggies can be fed daily including romaine lettuce (no iceberg), parsley and cilantro. Carrots are considered a treat because of their high sugar content. Some fruits are OK as treats. The House Rabbit Society website has a list of approved veggies and fruits.

Rabbits do not need vaccinations but, for their health and behavior, it is imperative that you have them spayed or neutered. An unspayed female has an 85% chance of getting reproductive cancer by age 5 and it is almost always deadly. Neutering males will not only improve their health but will erase many undesirable behaviors that they develop as teenagers (about 4-6 months). We fostered some baby males last year and when they hit puberty, they started spraying urine everywhere, digging, biting and chasing the female in their pen (we removed her right away). They were some stinky little bunnies and I was constantly cleaning their pen. We sent them back to the shelter to be neutered and they returned a week later as perfect gentlemen! It takes up to a month for the hormones to leave their system completely but they were well on their way after a week. They were so clean and polite that we decided to adopt them when we originally intended just to foster them!

There are so many bunnies in shelters needing homes that I never advocate buying from a pet store. Pet store bunnies are usually the product of over-bred females who produce litter after litter. The babies are not generally checked by a vet before being sold so you don't know what you're getting. A shelter bunny will have clean bill of health from a vet and will usually be evaluated for behavior by a knowledgeable bunny person. The shelter I adopt from has a write-up on each bunny explaining their personality, likes and dislikes and whether bunny will be suitable for kids. Speaking of kids, a child should never be the primary caretaker of a bunny. They're fragile animals and if kids handle or play with them, they should always be supervised by an adult. If a bunny doesn't feel secure when picked up, he may thrash around, scratch the holder and jump or be dropped. They can very easily break their back, leg or hip. Also, bunnies don't tend to be as responsive as cats or dogs. Some will come when called, but it can take a bunny up to a year to completely warm up to a new environment or new caretaker. My sister just adopted 2 males in February. One is friendly and easy-going and will allow himself to be picked up. The other is very timid and runs away from people. He's getting better but I think it will take him many more months before he lets his defenses down. My sister is willing to wait him out and let him be himself. Most children won't be that patient and will quickly lose interest in a cowardly bunny. That's why so many end up at shelters.

As you can see, I have a wealth of bunny knowledge! Feel free to ask questions or PM me if you need more info!

You know I was taught a great trick (by the lady we adopted her from at the House Rabbit chapter in N. Ga) to prevent cutting too close, well it works for Mable because her nails are white. Shine a small flash light next to the nail and you can see the quick better and not trim too closely. Her nails seem to stay prety short though, I guess because of the surface she is on, but I do check them regularly. DH holds her while I do this.

The house rabbit society has been able to finally get Petco to stop selling rabbits, now if Petland would just follow suit.

Suzanne

 

[HM]

My 11 year old DD wants to get a rabbit. I'm not sure that I'm excited about the idea, but thought I'd ask here, since we have no idea what having a rabbit involves.

Do they need yearly (or more often) vaccinations and/or vet checkups? How about nail and teeth trimming, do you do it yourself or take it to the vet?

We got our rabbit about two years ago. We've only been to the vet once with her. We trim her nails ourselves.

Would you have one inside your house? My DD wants to have it in her room, but we were also considering the basement. We were looking at some bigger cages on wheels. Also do they smell? (we never had a problem with the hamster smelling.)

We keep ours in our Bonus Room near a window. She can see the family come and go and gets attention when we're in the room. We got the largest size pet cage available and keep in on a coffee table at the window. I would not put it in the basement. Rabbits like attention, and unless you guys spend a lot of time down there, it's not ideal. Yes, the cage does smell after a while. We clean about every 5 days, but the plastic in the cage has started to take on the urine smell. She pees in the same corner of the cage each time.

How much do you spend on them per month approximately? What kind of food and bedding?

We spend about $40 a month. We buy Timothy Hay, Deluxe rabbit food, pelletlike bedding, salt licks, and treats each month. The cost of a cage is about $70 and you'll need a water bottle. We also bought a plastic igloo that was flat on top and turned it over and put a soft blanket in it for her bed.

We had a hamster a few years ago and DD did good with that (as far as taking care of it). We also have a dog, how would that go? I know we'd have to keep the dog away from the rabbit, I think her instinct would be to chase it!

Where would be the best place to get a rabbit? Not many pet shops around here have them. We've seen a lot at the animal shelters, just looking online.

I'd try a shelter first. We bought ours at a pet store though. She's a dwarf mix that looks like a wild rabbit with some white spots. I'd go for a dwarf rabbit if you can, others get pretty big (ours is midsized but not small).

Can you tell me anything else about them, good and bad? Or any other advice? Thanks so much! I'm still up in the air about the whole thing!

Rabbits live over 10 years, so you're looking at a big commitment compared to gerbils (which we've had before and loved having). They do like to get out of the cage and run around and should (for the most part) be able to do so without soiling your floors. They love to play with you. We try to let ours out to play with us each day. We close off the room so that she doesn't get in other rooms because she'll hide behind and under furniture and is hard to catch if that happens.
[/QUOTE]

 

[HM]

Just wanted to add. When I was growing up we had rabbits. We had a dog run in the back of our house that they lived in. So lots of space to run around and easy to clean. The only problem was long bouts of cold weather, when the water would freeze over and it was hard to keep them warm enough.

 

[bettymae1121]

Make sure no one in your family is allergic first. We didn't find out my brother was highly allergic to bunnies until a friend of his got one and he went over to play. He's not allergic to anything else, just bunnies! So if anyone in your family has never been around one, make a trip to a pet store or find someone that has a pet bunny and make sure no one starts to sneeze!

 

[PrincessSuzanne]

My 11 year old DD wants to get a rabbit. I'm not sure that I'm excited about the idea, but thought I'd ask here, since we have no idea what having a rabbit involves.

Do they need yearly (or more often) vaccinations and/or vet checkups? How about nail and teeth trimming, do you do it yourself or take it to the vet?

We got our rabbit about two years ago. We've only been to the vet once with her. We trim her nails ourselves.

Would you have one inside your house? My DD wants to have it in her room, but we were also considering the basement. We were looking at some bigger cages on wheels. Also do they smell? (we never had a problem with the hamster smelling.)

We keep ours in our Bonus Room near a window. She can see the family come and go and gets attention when we're in the room. We got the largest size pet cage available and keep in on a coffee table at the window. I would not put it in the basement. Rabbits like attention, and unless you guys spend a lot of time down there, it's not ideal. Yes, the cage does smell after a while. We clean about every 5 days, but the plastic in the cage has started to take on the urine smell. She pees in the same corner of the cage each time.

How much do you spend on them per month approximately? What kind of food and bedding?

We spend about $40 a month. We buy Timothy Hay, Deluxe rabbit food, pelletlike bedding, salt licks, and treats each month. The cost of a cage is about $70 and you'll need a water bottle. We also bought a plastic igloo that was flat on top and turned it over and put a soft blanket in it for her bed.

We had a hamster a few years ago and DD did good with that (as far as taking care of it). We also have a dog, how would that go? I know we'd have to keep the dog away from the rabbit, I think her instinct would be to chase it!

Where would be the best place to get a rabbit? Not many pet shops around here have them. We've seen a lot at the animal shelters, just looking online.

I'd try a shelter first. We bought ours at a pet store though. She's a dwarf mix that looks like a wild rabbit with some white spots. I'd go for a dwarf rabbit if you can, others get pretty big (ours is midsized but not small).

Can you tell me anything else about them, good and bad? Or any other advice? Thanks so much! I'm still up in the air about the whole thing!

Rabbits live over 10 years, so you're looking at a big commitment compared to gerbils (which we've had before and loved having). They do like to get out of the cage and run around and should (for the most part) be able to do so without soiling your floors. They love to play with you. We try to let ours out to play with us each day. We close off the room so that she doesn't get in other rooms because she'll hide behind and under furniture and is hard to catch if that happens.

[/QUOTE]


I hope you aren't keeping your bunny on a wire floor, that is so very dangerous and can lead to very expensive vet bills. I know I have been there and lost 2 bunnies to complications from the aftermath. Needless to say I have become a big advocate against wire floored rabbit pens. Don't use a small pen, those aren't large enough for a rabbit to be comfortable in.

You also shouldn't give them salt licks and those store bought treats, because the ingrediants are very bad for rabbits. Water bottles are also not the best option, they do better with a heavy ceramic bowl.

Suzanne

 

[DaisyD]

We have a pet rabbit. We had her in a cage in the house and bought her this adorable two story bunny chalet for outside. My plan was to let her stay outside for a few hours a day in nice weather. Well, it has been too hot for her so we put the hutch in our guest bedroom and leave the cage door open. She has run of that bedroom all day. We close her in her hutch at night. She is litter trained. We have a pan in her cage and in the bedroom for her and she uses both all the time. She is just like a cat and very easy to take care of.

 

[Simba22]

I agree with the previous posters....I've been volunteering for a rabbit rescue for 5 years and I have 7 rabbits of my own. This is a list of things I always tell people at work who ask me about getting a rabbit.

1) They are high maintanence and more similar to horses and elephants as far as digestion and breathing. They require a constant supply of hay, which a lot of people are allergic too, and it's also very messy. It gets all over the place and you will find hay in your clothes and shoes. They also require fresh green lettuce (most rescues will tell you twice a day), and PLAIN rabbit pellets. Rabbits should never be fed seeds, corn, or dairy (i.e, none of those yogurt covered treats) and can develop gut stasis by eating things they shouldn't (essentially, a blockage is formed in the gut and nothing goes in or comes out). Most rabbits who die of stasis do so within 48 hours after a blockage is developed so it's imperative that you know your rabbit's behavior and can tell when something is wrong.

2) They must be spayed/neutered. 95% of unaltered rabbits will die from reproductive cancer before they turn 4 years old. Altered, indoor, rabbits can live on average, 8-12 years. Unaltered rabbits are also difficult to take care of. Females become cage agressive and will lunge, grunt, and bite. Males will pee everywhere - including on you. They will use a litterbox, but not very well unless they're altered. If you adopt from a rescue, you will most likely pay around $75 however the rabbit will come already altered. Spaying a female (here in CT) costs around $230 and neutering a male is around $150. As someone mentioned previously, you must use a rabbit-savvy veterinarian...a general dog/cat vet will not know how to appropriately treat a rabbit.

3) It is not recommended that house rabbits "live" outside. Keep in mind that domestic house rabbits are NOT the same as wild rabbits. Domestic rabbits can not survive on their own. Even in a hutch, the mortality rate of an outdoor rabbit is significantly higher than that of an indoor rabbit. Out of sight, out of mind. I can't tell you how many times we have seen outdoor rabbits that died of starvation, dehydration, heat exhaustion, or freezing to death. Not to mention that they can literally be scared to death. If a fox, coyote, dog, cat, racoon, etc tries to get into the hutch, it's very likely the rabbit will have a heart attack and die before the attacker can even get in. You can certainly bring them outside to enjoy the fresh air, but they should never be left alone.

4) Most of them do not like to be held. They have very strong leg muscles and can break their own backs if they kick the wrong way or if they are dropped. Once a rabbit's back is broken, it marks the beginning of the end.

5) They are diggers and chewers. Carpet, table and chair legs, wood molding, wall corners, blankets, wires, couches, etc, are easy targets. Some bunnies are really good about not chewing/digging....some are horrible and destroy everything in their path.

6) Like most creatures, they are happiest in pairs. However you can't just pick any two rabbits and put them together. Rabbits (like humans ) need to date and make sure they actually like each other. Sometimes, it's love at first sight, sometimes they will immediately attack each other. Despite their adorableness, they can kill each other in a matter of minutes. By adopting from a rescue, you will have the opportunity to adopt an already bonded pair, or pick two separate rabbits and see if the rescue will bond them for you.

All of this being said, if you have the time, energy, and patience to devote to owning a rabbit, they make wonderful pets. As I said, I have 7 and they are all different. They have their own personalities, their own likes and dislikes, their own mannerisms. They are a lot of fun to play with and snuggle with, but like most children (human or of the 4-legged variety) they require work.

ETA: I forgot to mention cages. Wire bottoms are a no-no! Rabbits have no padding on their feet and can develop bad cuts and infections from wire bottom cages. Dog crates are what we use at the shelter (lined with newspaper), but my rabbits all have x-pens (puppy exercise pens) with cheap carpet from Walmart on the floor.

 

[LipglossAndLetdown]

I've had rabbits for about 20 years... I don't currently but love them to bits and pieces.

There is alot of conflicting info so always do a lot of research on your own. For example, all of our rabbits were kept on wire floors. Proper wire floors are much more sanitary, and it's lack of sanitation that in the largest cause of sore hocks. NOT wire floors. I had several different breeds, including ones that weighed only 2 pounds all the way up to 18 lbs, and never had sore hock problems. We did provide all our rabbits with wooden sitting boards or the rubber type ones that are sold now as a place for the them to sit on if they preferred that instead of the wire.

All our buns were kept outside in a shed. Heat is the largest problem for out door buns. We kept our shed ventilated with fans and also provided frozen 2-liter pop bottles filled with water to help keep them cool in the summer heat. Rabbits do quite well in the winter (remember they have fur coats ). Any hutches outside must be protected from the wind/snow/rain. Alot of people like to also build half of a hutch with solid wood with an opening into the hutch and a door you can open. That way you can have access to the bun when he's in his "house." Fresh water is always important, whether it's summer or in the winter. When water dishes freeze solid, they must be replaced several times each day.


Getting several good books (I liked the ARBA Guidebook and Rabbit Production, but it's a bit advanced) and research, Lots of research.

My main tip. DO NOT buy from a pet store. Not your rabbit or it's food. If you can't find a rescue bun, do research and find a reputable breeder in your area. Talk to several of the breed you prefer if you decide to go down that road. Reputable breeders can be a wealth of information. Many will even provide care kits with info on care and some of the food they are using so you can gradually switch over to whatever brand you will be using.

As someone else mentioned, they have digestive systems similar to horses, and they can be quite sensitive in the gut department. Never switch food brands all at once... always do it gradually. A grass hay is very important for providing fiber and roughage to help keep the gut moving. They will clean themselves by licking like a cat does, but unlike a cat can not vomit hairballs. Fiber will help scrub the gut out and prevent hair block.

I do agree with neutering/spaying your bun, though