legalsea, I am really enjoying your reports. As you may know, I am a second generation Chinese-American. My parents were born, raised, and went to school through college in Shanghai. After the Communist revolution, they fled to Hong Kong, then a British colony, and got their exit visas through the British government. They came to the US, where they married and I and my sister were born. They speak the Shanghai dialect at home, so I still understand it and can speak some.
In 2000, I, DH, and our 2 children, then 8 and 4, went to Shanghai. I convinced my parents to come with us. They had not been back to their hometown for 50 years. It was truly a trip of a lifetime. We were fortunate to find their old homes still standing, although it was quite a feat. Not only had the landscape changed so dramatically, but all the street names had been changed, so it was very difficult for them to describe to our driver where they wanted to go. We also met many of our relatives that we had never seen before.
The most moving part of our trip was when we hired a van and a driver and went to Suzhou. There we located, again with some difficulty, the gravesites of my maternal grandparents. It was very emotional, especially for my mom, as both her parents were still alive when she left Shanghai 50 years before. My father's best friend is my mom's brother, so he was also very close to my mother's parents. Once we found the grave, we laid flowers and paid homage in the traditional Chinese way of bowing three times, slowly and deeply.
I went back with my parents 2 years later, and we went to Shanghai and Beijing. My parents had never travelled to Bejing when they lived in China, so they were seeing it for the first time as well. It was quite different from Shanghai - much more steeped in Chinese history and culture.
My parents went back one more time after that, but now they are not in good health and so I don't know if they will make it back again. I have to admit, it is certainly helpful to go with someone who speaks and reads the language, however, it was a bit of a struggle even for my mother, as many of the characters have been altered and "simplified". I would LOVE to visit Xi'an, Nanking, Hangzhou, and Hong Kong.
Some other observations about China:
The sheer mass of humanity there is astonding. There are more people there, in a smaller area, than anywhere I have ever seen - and I have been to some pretty big cities. My father always said that after he retired, he was going to move back to China, where he could afford to buy a big house and hire people, since the dollar buys a lot more there than here. But after his first visit back, he quickly decided against that idea. They have gotten so Americanized, that they appreciate being able to drive over to go shopping, buy groceries, etc., which they could not do in China. And my dad is a huge sports fan, and was sorely missing the NCAA March Madness - he could not believe that no station in China was carrying US sports!
Car horn honking is an art form. Honking is ubiquitous. But, unlike the US, honking is more of a friendly reminder - like, 'hey, not so close, I'm back here'

. Not like the US, where honking is more like, "You #*%^@! Get your *+$@ out of my &*$#%^ way!!!"
Other things we had to adjust to were not drinking the water from the tap. Not even to brush your teeth. ONLY drink boiled water or bottled water.
Squatting toilets. Remember to build up your quad muscles. Also, bring your own toilet paper to the public restrooms.
Finally be prepared for lots of curious stares. Especially for our kids, since they have rather exotic (and beautiful, I think

)Eurasian features - they always attracted a lot of attention. Also my 6' 1" blue-eyed husband

.
If you ever go back, legalsea, I would encourage you to hire a private tour. Even though my parents speak and read Chinese, we did this and it was worth it. The price is so reasonable - not much more than what you paid for the group tour - and they provide transportation to and from the airport, and includes a customized tour, a translator/tour guide, van, and driver.
I will disagree about the food though. It was horrendous. I am a supremely picky eater and MANY MANY of our athletes have texture or sensory issues.
I would suggest that anyone who is NOT an "adventurous" eater really think hard about visiting China.
The cuisine is such an integral part of any China visit, that maybe "picky eaters" should not go.