Two unique (to me) shooting situations--advice needed!

bearlyanne

DIS Veteran
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Apr 3, 2009
Messages
534
Hi everyone!

I am heading down to WDW in two weeks to chEAR on and take pics of my friend during the Princess Half Marathon.

She is also doing the Epcot Scuba Dive, and I will be able to shoot from outside the tank while she is in there.

Do any of you have suggestions on how to achieve the best shots? I am an amateur shooting with a T2i, and I am still nervous about going manual. I am hoping to get enough hints that I will be brave and won't panic and stay on the semi-automatic settings during vacation for fear of losing the shot :(
 
What lenses are you going to shoot with?

Your marathon, since it is outside during daylight, should be the easier event to shoot. You should be able to use the P function on your camera, which is similar to semi-automatic. It will pick the shutter and aperture. You should still be able to adjust iso if you need, but you'd really only need to change settings if it is cloudy outside.

Your scuba session is your more difficult shot since it is inside with a greenish/blue background. People will probably need to know your lens selection if you are going to try manual (and you probably will want to) for that event.
 
As Frantasmic stated if you have good light the marathon will be easy. If you are shooting the action then I would recommend using a shutter priority mode (on my camera it is Tv), ISO at its lowest setting and let the camera choose the aperture. You would choose a fast shutter speed to get the stop action and prevent motion blur, unless that is the effect you're going for. You could also pan which then would entail a slower shutter speed to induce a blurred moving like background. If you are shooting non-action shots then it would depend on what effect you are trying to achieve. A sharp image of your subject with participants blurred in the background could entail a large aperture to reduce the depth of field and just the opposite if you want everything in focus. I think what I'm trying to say, is that when shooting sporting events there really isn't any one setting. I shoot a lot of sporting events and it just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. If you are not going for anything special then you can use the P mode and let the camera do most of the work.

As far as shooting into the tank, I'm afraid my advice would be useless. I shot into the tanks at The Seas, but my settings were all over the place including using flash. I had mixed results, some very good and some very bad. If I remember correctly, I was trying everything and hoping something would turn out.
 

The one thing with shooting any aquarium scene-DO NOT USE FLASH!!! It will just bounce back and you'll get a nice whited out blob in your shot. To cut reflections, use a polarizing filter that fits the lens (you can find the size inside the lens cap, or Google it). Just rotate the filter until you don't see reflections of people, lights, etc anymore. If you have a lens hood, put it on and try putting your lens hood right up to the glass. It might help. If you're not comfortable shooting in manual, you might try setting the camera to P (Program) mode. It's like auto, but you can set the ISO, exposure (under and over accordingly), and white balance. If you can shoot in RAW, use it as you can correct a lot more in Photoshop, etc. This will be very helpful with white balance. Also check your shots often and make adjustments as needed. Finally, if you can, stake out a spot early and take some test shots so that when your friend starts diving, you will be ready!
 
The one thing with shooting any aquarium scene-DO NOT USE FLASH!!! It will just bounce back and you'll get a nice whited out blob in your shot. To cut reflections, use a polarizing filter that fits the lens (you can find the size inside the lens cap, or Google it). Just rotate the filter until you don't see reflections of people, lights, etc anymore. If you have a lens hood, put it on and try putting your lens hood right up to the glass. It might help. If you're not comfortable shooting in manual, you might try setting the camera to P (Program) mode. It's like auto, but you can set the ISO, exposure (under and over accordingly), and white balance. If you can shoot in RAW, use it as you can correct a lot more in Photoshop, etc. This will be very helpful with white balance. Also check your shots often and make adjustments as needed. Finally, if you can, stake out a spot early and take some test shots so that when your friend starts diving, you will be ready!

Not to be argumentative but using a flash with an aquarium can be done. You have to shoot at an angle and not directly straight on. Here is an example ( I have others):


The Seas Spiny Fish by Gianna'sPapa, on Flickr
 
Thank you all for the advice.

I will be taking my stock lens Canon 18-55, my Canon 50mm 1.4

I also have a 75-300 which I could be convinced to bring along if you guys think that I should. I try not to be weighed down when I am there.
 
two more noob questions..

Is there a big difference between a Circular Polarizer and a regular one? I ususally use the circular and the UV filters on all the time. Is that a bad habit?
 
two more noob questions..

Is there a big difference between a Circular Polarizer and a regular one? I ususally use the circular and the UV filters on all the time. Is that a bad habit?

Yes, there is a difference. You should be using a circular and not a linear. The linear can affect your autofocus. Also uv filters, other than for protection, for the most part are not useful in the DSLR. For film it was a different story. Ultraviolet rays do not affect the sensor the way it did film. There is always an argument about the use of the uv filter for protection. I do not use an uv filter on any of my lenses, but instead I never shoot without my lens hoods which is my lens protector. I do not want another piece of glass affecting my image. And in the case of stacking filters, I would not recommend that.
 
Thank you all for the advice.

I will be taking my stock lens Canon 18-55, my Canon 50mm 1.4

I also have a 75-300 which I could be convinced to bring along if you guys think that I should. I try not to be weighed down when I am there.

I would bring it because, in my experience, the one lens I need is the one I didn't bring!!:rotfl2: Besides it is only 5 inches long and weighs only a Lb.
 
I would try to practice a bit under similar conditions, if possible, before you go. Work out some of the bugs before you're in the actual situation.
 
I am excited I can say this.......

I have run the Disney 1/2 before and from a runners perspective I would encourage you to take the longest lens you have.

The reason I say this I do not know where you plan to stake yourself out to take the pictures but you may be a ways away from them. You would not have to lug it around all the time just at the race.

I did the Disney 1/2 not the Princess so I do not know if you run the same track.

I would encourage you to figure out the best place or places for you to be where you will have the most exposure to the runners.

Just my thought!
 
I use my 50mm f/1.8 in aquariums with no flash (Tv mode set at 1/90 or slower if needed). It works well for me.

I'm jealous of the friend going on the Epcot dive. A friend of mine did it last summer and said it was a lot of fun. The video Disney did of the dive was pretty good, so don't fret if your shots aren't just right. As long as your freind has the video she'll have something to remember the dive.

The 75-300... I used mine at Animal Kingdom on my last trip. It might come in handy at the marathon. However, it's a soft, fuzzy elephant of a lens and unless you just really need the reach I'd leave it in the room any other times.

There is nothing wrong with semi-automatic if it gets you the shots. A lot of people consider Tv and Av modes semi-automatic, and that's what I use 99% of the time.
 


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