*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*

[rideswithchrist]

Holding a lower gear (resulting in higher RPM) is how the Tow/Haul mode works. Instead of the transmission constantly shift back and forth between gears, it just holds the lower gear. The constant shifting up and down is what generates the heat in an automatic transmission and the heat is what kills them. The higher rpm also keeps the engine in a range it makes more power to be able to pull the extra weight. The rpm (and more power) don't help fuel mileage, but that is one of the trade offs.

I know the higher rpm is loud and annoying, but if that is what the transmission is doing in tow/haul mode, it is doing its job.

j

thanks! We were wondering aboutvthat, because it only happens in T/H but we wanted to see if that was the normal higher rpm. the popup did not weigh enough to have an effect really.
so- knowing it is normal for it to hold the gear is good news.
Nothing like hauling a new camper to make you feel like a 15 year old learning to drive all over again.

 

[tiggerdad]

It also utilizes downshifting to help with braking as well. Downshifting earlier to utilizes the engining braking.

 

[love__goofy]

Hi all!
Previously we owned a class C and Class A. We just purchased a Montana 377FL 5th wheel. It looks like we would need a 250 or 350 truck. Does anyone know what would be best? Short or long bed? At this point, we will just be towing basically on 95 from NC to SC beaches and FL.

Thoughts and suggestions would very much appreciated!

 

[Teamubr]

The Keystone web site says the "shipping weight" is 12,985. That is definitely F350 territory and I would definitely go with a dually. My 5er weighs about the same and I wouldn't consider towing without a dually F350 or higher.

As for long or shortbed, I'd go with the long bed. The hitch will be placed far enough away from the cab that you don't have to worry about tight turns.

j

 

[tiggerdad]

The pin weight is 2500#, considering the other weight in the vehicle including fuel and people you'll likely need the duel wheels for the safest feel. The 350 single wheel has extra helper spring and taller block. Instead of adding the helper spring to my F250 I put Firestone Airbags so I could keep the smoother ride when I was not towing. My camping pin weight is 2000#, so not as heavy as yours and my rig is 9700# dry, so you are certainly heavier than I am. With this considered, I agree with Jim about going with duel wheel rear end.

 

[Teamubr]

The pin weight is 2500#

I saw the pin weight and initially thought it was wrong, but for a dry (delivered) weight, I guess it is about right. 5ers generally have about 20% of the weight on the pin. Once you put 2,000 pounds (or more up to the 3,475 carrying capacity) of your "stuff" in the trailer, you are over 3,000 pin weight.

j

 

[tripleb]

Hi all!
Previously we owned a class C and Class A. We just purchased a Montana 377FL 5th wheel. It looks like we would need a 250 or 350 truck. Does anyone know what would be best? Short or long bed? At this point, we will just be towing basically on 95 from NC to SC beaches and FL.

Thoughts and suggestions would very much appreciated!

You are in 350/3500 territory … leave the 250/2500 on the lot. And, you will be better off with a dually and a long bed. Oh, and one other very important suggestion … make sure your truck is a diesel. That Montana is a lotta weight for a gas engine to handle especially if you travel in the mountains or even foothill areas.

 

[PaHunter]

We had pulled a Sandpiper 379FLOK, which is very similar to your Montana. We used a Chevy Crew cab dually to pull it. Diesel is the only way to go. We had that setup at the Fort in 2017, and it felt pretty stable. You may want to consider a used one to save some money, but be ready to jump on them. When I bought ours, I chased trucks for nearly 3 months. One dealer sold the truck from under me while I was on the way there to see it.

 

[jbrostek]

I agree with @PaHunter that you are in DRW range for capacity and really diesel is the way to go for something that big. Finding a good used one can be just as frustrating though still possible. The reason I bring up the DRW is your pin weight starts at 2465LBS and goes up from there. So you have to look at what your loaded weight will end up being on the truck.

 

[tiggerdad]

Courtesy of @SouthAlabama5er on his daily travels. The trailer is attached to the tube where the crapper hose belongs.

 

[Teamubr]

Sounds safe...

 

[tripleb]

What could possibly go wrong ? Some of the FW's come with a 2" receiver hitch designed to be used as a towing hitch ( Our old Jayco and new Montana has one ). However, they are only designed for 300 pounds of tongue weight and 3000 pound load. That car trailer certainly exceeds that rating.

 

[WeLovePluto]

I like that one wheel is teal and the other isn’t.

 

[Part-Time Paradise]

What could possibly go wrong ? Some of the FW's come with a 2" receiver hitch designed to be used as a towing hitch ( Our old Jayco and new Montana has one ). However, they are only designed for 300 pounds of tongue weight and 3000 pound load. That car trailer certainly exceeds that rating.

I have one on my Montana and I'm paranoid the bike rack I have on it is too much. Evidently I should be pulling a second car with a bike rack on it.

 

[tiggerdad]

I like that one wheel is teal and the other isn’t.

Poor turn signal on trailer lost its life long ago. Nothing left but an empty carcass.

One wire hanging down...

 

[Part-Time Paradise]

Poor turn signal on trailer lost its life long ago. Nothing left but an empty carcass.

One wire hanging down...

Should be fine...

 

[bama_ed]

That guy @SouthAlabama5er (Randy) must live on the wild side with all those outlaws on the road.

Stay safe, Randy.

Ed

 

[jbrostek]

Ok, I have done a golfcart but I built the hitch and it connected to the actual frame of the 5th wheel. This is a whole lot of *** going on there. That just looks like a bad idea. And it looks like a drift car, so I wonder if ill see that around at some point working an event.

PS: Anyone else notice the AC unit looks like a few too many low bridges?

 

[Mome Rath]

Question; Hi all, we have a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD Ext Cab SLT (5.3L V8) right now and I'm having a hard time determining towing capacity due to the fact I don't know what our Axle Ratio is. I've entered the VIN into a decoder, but it's not telling me which we have, and the towing capacity is a 2,800 lb difference depending on which it is (meaning if it is a 3.08 axle ratio the Max trailer weight is 6,800 lbs, and a 3.42 ratio is 9,600 lbs). Will our dealer/mechanic (they are one and the same) be able to tell me which it is, or is there a different way to get an estimate of the towing capacity without that?

 

[Teamubr]

The dealer should be able to tell you. There should be a tag at the rear differential, usually on one of the bolts for the dif cover. It may also be on the door tag where your tire pressures are located. That same tag should also tell you what your weight ratings are, although it may not say "tow rating". It will likely give you axle weight ratings, a GVWR (the max the truck can weigh with all the stuff in it, including the tongue weight, and the GCWR (max EVERYTHING can weigh, truck, trailer, you and all your stuff).

This is what one looks like on a Ford. It also has the axle code, but you have to look it up. The "3J" in the pic below is a 3.55 limited slip in a Ford truck.



Here's one for a GM I found on the web that shows trailer weights. Looks like it is next to the door tag (typically driver's door B-pillar) with tire and axle ratings.



j