UKDEB
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OK, OK! I know I haven't finished last year's trip report, but as our return visit is just a little over three weeks away, I thought I should say a few words about what we've got planned. Sticking with the song titles theme, this report owes its name to the Bob Wills Western Swing number. Although a native of Texas, Bob is inextricably linked with Tulsa and the city's historic Cain's Ballroom, so it's doubly appropriate. I already have a third title lined up - the Don Williams Country classic, Livin' On Tulsa Time. 
We're flying with BA from Heathrow again, but this time into Dallas. Those who've been paying attention will remember that we had to fly into Houston last time because the cost of flights to Dallas had risen to exorbitant levels by the time we were able to book. That worked well from the point of view that we got to spend the first night at the fabulous lifestyle district of The Woodlands, but it doubled the driving distance each way (Dallas is midway between Houston and Tulsa). This time we'll be spending the first night at the Gaylord Texan in Grapevine (around 10 minutes from Dallas/Fort Worth airport) which is where we spent our final two nights last year. The following morning we shall be on the road early for the 290 mile/4.5 hour drive.
Less. Frenetic. Pace. Those are the watchwords for this trip. We wouldn't change a single thing about last year's visit, but this time we're looking forward to taking things a little more slowly. I say that with tongue firmly in cheek because the itinerary is already looking pretty packed. The first day will see us heading for the Will Rogers Museum out on Route 66 at Claremore. I'll forgive you if you've forgotten that we arrived there too late last year and had to satisfy ourselves with touring the grounds. We'll probably have a quiet evening because the following day we'll be making the journey to Norman for the Sooners College Football game. Friends we made last year, Shelly and Mark (who you met in the Amish Dinner instalment), are Sooners' season ticket holders and we'll be going with them. Shelly's brother and his family have the seats next to theirs, but can't always attend the games as their own son now plays football himself. Last month, we learned that Sally (Susan's sister) has paid for the tickets for us and we're all set for the game against Texas Tech on 22nd October. Oklahoma are entering the season at the top of the coaches' pre-season poll and haven't lost a home game in around 6 years. Their home games have been a sellout (82,000) since 1999. Texas Tech aren't too shoddy, either, so we should be in for a cracking day out. The icing on the cake? We're going tailgating! Yay! The excitement level in the Churchill household is running on overdrive, right now.
We're very much looking forward to spending time with all the friends we made last year. A barbecue is planned at the home of Susan's neighbours; Michelle and Doug, and their daughters Clarice and Gwen. We're also going to go out on the lake in Doug's boat. How very American! Sister Sally will be joining us in as many of our adventures as possible, as will Shelly, Mark and their daughter, Gabi. Sally's friend, Conny is taking us to a dive bar out by Lake Keystone. We didn't get to meet Conny last time, but I can guarantee that anyone who takes us to beer will become a firm friend. Our trip coincides with Halloween, so we'll get the authentic "Trick or Treat" experience.
There are a few places which we didn't get around to last time because we simply ran out of time. They've become priorities for this trip. Historic Guthrie was originally the state capital, but was quickly eclipsed in economic influence by Oklahoma City and a case was successfully made to move the administration there. The resultant loss of its economic base meant that Guthrie's population dwindled and it soon lost its status as Oklahoma's second largest city; first to Muskogee and then to Tulsa. That early loss of prominence, though, saved its Victorian architecture from the destruction seen in the growth towns. Today it's designated a National Historic Landmark and is incredibly well-preserved; film-set pretty, even. It has some fascinating buildings including a time capsule frontier drugstore and apothecary garden; and the Temple of the Scottish Rite of Freemasonry, the largest Masonic edifice in the world and a triumph of architectural and interior design.
The Tallgrass Prairie Preserve is protected as the largest tract of remaining tallgrass prairie in the world. The preserve is located at the southern end of the Flint Hills, a rocky, rolling prairie that stretches from northern Kansas into Oklahoma. Exposed limestone formations and those close to the surface have made cultivation difficult and thus the Flint Hills have survived much as they were when they were an Indian hunting ground for tribes such as the Wichita, Osage, and Kaw. The region is called The Osage by Oklahomans, referring to the name of the county and the Indian tribe to which the land belonged. The Osage Indians retained sub-surface mineral rights on all their former lands and the petroleum on their reservation made them the richest people per capita in the world in the 1930s. There are still more than 100 producing oil wells on the preserve. Bison graze unhindered among the oil wells and are the most prominent attraction of the preserve. The herd numbers more than 2,500 and grazes 21,000 acres of mostly open range. The preserve supports 755 plant species, many unique to the tallgrass prairie, and more than 300 bird species. Forest trees include several species of oak, cottonwoods, ash, red cedar, elm, sycamore, and others. The tallgrass prairie owes its existence to fire, whether caused by lightening or manmade. Without fire, the prairie quickly becomes brushland. The Indians were aware of this and burned the prairie regularly to nurture new growth of succulent grasses and to kill intrusive trees and shrubs. The Nature Conservancy has continued this practice with a process called patch burning in which about one-third of the prairie is burned each year. This process has proven beneficial not only for bison and cattle, but also for the threatened Greater Prairie Chickens which also inhabit the preserve in small numbers. (I hadn't intended this to turn into a geography lesson, but this stuff fascinates me.) We'll also take the opportunity to visit Pawhuska, the nearest large town and the capital of the Osage Nation; as well as the Pawnee Bill Ranch, home of Wild West Show entertainer, Gordon W. "Pawnee Bill" Lillie. Pawnee Bill believed strongly in the importance of the bison to the history of the American West and to the Plains Indian culture. He wished to perpetuate and develop the bison and lobbied congress to pass legislation to protect the animal. This was the beginning of the ranch's time as a bison preservation. The ranch is an active member of the Oklahoma Bison Association today.
This is just a selection of what we've got planned. We have a whole host of other ideas. Remember the breathtakingly pretty Honor Heights Park in Muskogee? We're going to spend some time there. We'll have a picnic out at Lake Skiatook, and maybe a sally to the new Chickasaw Cultural Center in Sulphur. You won't be surprised to learn that there are more restaurants and bars on our wishlist than we have time for. We'll be squeezing in some shopping somewhere, too. There are at least 20 more possibilities that I haven't mentioned: some that can be slotted in around other activities, others which are bigger undertakings.
Finally, we'll be spending two nights at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas. It's home to Fearing's, the restaurant of Dean Fearing, "Father of Southwestern Cuisine". Already a fabled chef in Dallas, in 2007 he was given the opportunity of creating his dream dining and gathering place at the R-C. The result is seven distinct settings, every one of them nothing less than spectacular. There's an upscale, fine dining room; a bustling display kitchen; a conservatory-like room with glass walls; an outdoor patio where you can dine amongst water features and trees; a wine cellar for private dining; the chef's table; a sumptuous traditional bar; and an outside bar with a live oak. During our time in Dallas last year, we were too exhausted to visit any attractions. This time we'll be staying in the heart of the city and our priority is to visit the Grassy Knoll and the Sixth Floor Depository.
Bring it on!
We're flying with BA from Heathrow again, but this time into Dallas. Those who've been paying attention will remember that we had to fly into Houston last time because the cost of flights to Dallas had risen to exorbitant levels by the time we were able to book. That worked well from the point of view that we got to spend the first night at the fabulous lifestyle district of The Woodlands, but it doubled the driving distance each way (Dallas is midway between Houston and Tulsa). This time we'll be spending the first night at the Gaylord Texan in Grapevine (around 10 minutes from Dallas/Fort Worth airport) which is where we spent our final two nights last year. The following morning we shall be on the road early for the 290 mile/4.5 hour drive.
Less. Frenetic. Pace. Those are the watchwords for this trip. We wouldn't change a single thing about last year's visit, but this time we're looking forward to taking things a little more slowly. I say that with tongue firmly in cheek because the itinerary is already looking pretty packed. The first day will see us heading for the Will Rogers Museum out on Route 66 at Claremore. I'll forgive you if you've forgotten that we arrived there too late last year and had to satisfy ourselves with touring the grounds. We'll probably have a quiet evening because the following day we'll be making the journey to Norman for the Sooners College Football game. Friends we made last year, Shelly and Mark (who you met in the Amish Dinner instalment), are Sooners' season ticket holders and we'll be going with them. Shelly's brother and his family have the seats next to theirs, but can't always attend the games as their own son now plays football himself. Last month, we learned that Sally (Susan's sister) has paid for the tickets for us and we're all set for the game against Texas Tech on 22nd October. Oklahoma are entering the season at the top of the coaches' pre-season poll and haven't lost a home game in around 6 years. Their home games have been a sellout (82,000) since 1999. Texas Tech aren't too shoddy, either, so we should be in for a cracking day out. The icing on the cake? We're going tailgating! Yay! The excitement level in the Churchill household is running on overdrive, right now.
We're very much looking forward to spending time with all the friends we made last year. A barbecue is planned at the home of Susan's neighbours; Michelle and Doug, and their daughters Clarice and Gwen. We're also going to go out on the lake in Doug's boat. How very American! Sister Sally will be joining us in as many of our adventures as possible, as will Shelly, Mark and their daughter, Gabi. Sally's friend, Conny is taking us to a dive bar out by Lake Keystone. We didn't get to meet Conny last time, but I can guarantee that anyone who takes us to beer will become a firm friend. Our trip coincides with Halloween, so we'll get the authentic "Trick or Treat" experience.
There are a few places which we didn't get around to last time because we simply ran out of time. They've become priorities for this trip. Historic Guthrie was originally the state capital, but was quickly eclipsed in economic influence by Oklahoma City and a case was successfully made to move the administration there. The resultant loss of its economic base meant that Guthrie's population dwindled and it soon lost its status as Oklahoma's second largest city; first to Muskogee and then to Tulsa. That early loss of prominence, though, saved its Victorian architecture from the destruction seen in the growth towns. Today it's designated a National Historic Landmark and is incredibly well-preserved; film-set pretty, even. It has some fascinating buildings including a time capsule frontier drugstore and apothecary garden; and the Temple of the Scottish Rite of Freemasonry, the largest Masonic edifice in the world and a triumph of architectural and interior design.
The Tallgrass Prairie Preserve is protected as the largest tract of remaining tallgrass prairie in the world. The preserve is located at the southern end of the Flint Hills, a rocky, rolling prairie that stretches from northern Kansas into Oklahoma. Exposed limestone formations and those close to the surface have made cultivation difficult and thus the Flint Hills have survived much as they were when they were an Indian hunting ground for tribes such as the Wichita, Osage, and Kaw. The region is called The Osage by Oklahomans, referring to the name of the county and the Indian tribe to which the land belonged. The Osage Indians retained sub-surface mineral rights on all their former lands and the petroleum on their reservation made them the richest people per capita in the world in the 1930s. There are still more than 100 producing oil wells on the preserve. Bison graze unhindered among the oil wells and are the most prominent attraction of the preserve. The herd numbers more than 2,500 and grazes 21,000 acres of mostly open range. The preserve supports 755 plant species, many unique to the tallgrass prairie, and more than 300 bird species. Forest trees include several species of oak, cottonwoods, ash, red cedar, elm, sycamore, and others. The tallgrass prairie owes its existence to fire, whether caused by lightening or manmade. Without fire, the prairie quickly becomes brushland. The Indians were aware of this and burned the prairie regularly to nurture new growth of succulent grasses and to kill intrusive trees and shrubs. The Nature Conservancy has continued this practice with a process called patch burning in which about one-third of the prairie is burned each year. This process has proven beneficial not only for bison and cattle, but also for the threatened Greater Prairie Chickens which also inhabit the preserve in small numbers. (I hadn't intended this to turn into a geography lesson, but this stuff fascinates me.) We'll also take the opportunity to visit Pawhuska, the nearest large town and the capital of the Osage Nation; as well as the Pawnee Bill Ranch, home of Wild West Show entertainer, Gordon W. "Pawnee Bill" Lillie. Pawnee Bill believed strongly in the importance of the bison to the history of the American West and to the Plains Indian culture. He wished to perpetuate and develop the bison and lobbied congress to pass legislation to protect the animal. This was the beginning of the ranch's time as a bison preservation. The ranch is an active member of the Oklahoma Bison Association today.
This is just a selection of what we've got planned. We have a whole host of other ideas. Remember the breathtakingly pretty Honor Heights Park in Muskogee? We're going to spend some time there. We'll have a picnic out at Lake Skiatook, and maybe a sally to the new Chickasaw Cultural Center in Sulphur. You won't be surprised to learn that there are more restaurants and bars on our wishlist than we have time for. We'll be squeezing in some shopping somewhere, too. There are at least 20 more possibilities that I haven't mentioned: some that can be slotted in around other activities, others which are bigger undertakings.
Finally, we'll be spending two nights at the Ritz-Carlton in Dallas. It's home to Fearing's, the restaurant of Dean Fearing, "Father of Southwestern Cuisine". Already a fabled chef in Dallas, in 2007 he was given the opportunity of creating his dream dining and gathering place at the R-C. The result is seven distinct settings, every one of them nothing less than spectacular. There's an upscale, fine dining room; a bustling display kitchen; a conservatory-like room with glass walls; an outdoor patio where you can dine amongst water features and trees; a wine cellar for private dining; the chef's table; a sumptuous traditional bar; and an outside bar with a live oak. During our time in Dallas last year, we were too exhausted to visit any attractions. This time we'll be staying in the heart of the city and our priority is to visit the Grassy Knoll and the Sixth Floor Depository.
Bring it on!
