Steppes In Africa; A Disney-inspired Safari-D is for Dreadful History and a Final Departure- THE END (12/21)

[Steppesister]

Why was there a tray of cloves there?

I think just a statement to remind folks that this is the original Spice Island.

Zanzibar is called the "Spice Island" because its fertile soil and strategic Indian Ocean location made it a global hub for spice cultivation and trade for centuries, growing and exporting valuable spices like cloves (once dominating world production), nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, and pepper, which shaped its economy, culture, and history. Visitors can still tour spice farms, experiencing the sights, smells, and tastes of this rich agricultural heritage, though its history is also tied to colonialism and the slave trade.

And I thought you were safe when they weren't on your diving trip.

I had a short reprieve. I guess it's just going to be everywhere you go now. Blech.

That is really blue!

I've never seen a restaurant on a rock before. It looks like a nice place to eat.

Certainly unique to be sure! Very picture worthy!

 

[Steppesister]

The way into her parlour is up a winding stair

In case you weren't aware, I am directly quoting the poem these last two posts.

Okay, I don't think I know this one. I'll have to look it up.

Pass. I'll be happy to go out of my way a bit for genuine local crafts.
HOWEVER! I won't buy genuine either if it's a. Not appealing or b. Poorly made.

Agreed. Gotta be a bit discerning with local handcrafts.

Did not know that. Do know that if that first aid isn't swift... well... you're gonna die.

That I'll certainly give you. Mind you, I saw it, took a quick peek and swam way with haste.

So bananas a personal fave?

 

[Steppesister]

What a beautiful day...sans beach porno. I love the pictures of the night sky especially. Even if they weren't exactly what you were hoping for, they're stunning!

Thanks, Jackie! It was such a beautiful night and the sky was so pretty!

 

[Steppesister]

I don't generally think 'pretty' when I think of monkeys, but have to agree!

I think some are more handsome than others. Like the Blues are "pretty" to me, but the Colobus are more... cute or comical looking.

I've never heard of it... is it a common term in the US?

That's what made it so hilarious. It's NOT common here, and I'm not even sure how many people would even know what it refers to. Here's some history:

"Bunga bunga" refers to alleged sexually explicit parties hosted by former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, stemming from testimony by dancer Karima El Mahroug (Ruby the Heartstealer) in 2010-2011, becoming a global scandal symbolizing corruption, political decay, and a debased culture, originating from old racist jokes or nicknames. The phrase, meaning a supposed ritual of stripping and sex, also appears in pop culture, like in the James Bond film No Time to Die and songs.

Origin & Scandal

• Karima El Mahroug: The term gained fame from Moroccan dancer Ruby, who claimed to have attended "bunga bunga" parties at Berlusconi's villa in Milan, involving young women and sexual acts, leading to a major legal case.
• Symbolism: It became synonymous with Berlusconi's lavish lifestyle, alleged immorality, and Italy's political decline, sparking protests and international ridicule.
• Roots: While popularized by Ruby, the phrase itself comes from older racist jokes or nicknames, including one from a 1910 British hoax involving dressing as an African prince, says NPR.

Usage & Legacy

• Political Slang: "Bunga Bunga" entered the political lexicon to describe the perceived moral rot and commodification in Italian society under Berlusconi's influence, notes The Atlantic and Reuters.
• Cultural References: The term appears in media, such as the Bond film No Time to Die (2021) and songs by bands like The Smile, as shown on Wikipedia.

What made it so funny, was this random guy in Africa knows the term and uses it correctly probably without any of the origins backstory. It came out of nowhere and in such a random place!

Glad you got the chance for a lovely introspective experience before the obnoxious lot turned up. I think it's fascinating that they still have the white, just with the red kind of over the top.

Absolutely. Wiki goes into some great detail about how they are different with diet and their calls as well. Fascinating stuff.

Totally agree. People suck.

Yes, for sure.

So about on par with a WDW deluxe hotel then

Yes, price-wise, but even the Flo couldn't hold a candle to the luxury or elegance of this place.

Ooh, padded seating! How cushy! Love the floral pattern on the roof too.

See?!

I'm afraid none of your snorkelling excursions have made me want to jump in the water... I'll be quite happy to stick to land! I would have quite happily spent all day in that forest.

Well, unfortunately, you can't. You HAVE to have a guide with you all the time and your fee only pays for about 2 hours.
So you'd have to sort of stick to the parking lot or your car.

How cool is that!

VERY!

Yeah, I don't get it either. I understand wanting to get a selfie, and I even understanding wanting it to be a flattering selfie that you're not going to be too ashamed to put up on social media. But the ever increasingly obscene full photo shoots... just why?

That's just it. I know it's shocking, but like, Lady, you're not the center of the universe.

Maybe I'm being judgy, but I wouldn't expect anyone who had just done a full half hour photo shoot to be friendly, polite and down to earth. I'd much rather have your experience of a nice quiet table on the rail.

No, not judgy, just observant. Her behavior spoke for itself.

It does sound like it's mostly about the novelty factor and insta opportunities. But cool nonetheless. I definitely would have been tempted!

I agree. The food was pretty good and I think part of the draw is that it's SUPER tough to get into during high season as well. But as you say, pretty novel- I don't know of too many other restaurants you have to take a boat to get to.

Sad that your trip is coming to an end. But definitely looking forward to the next one!

Lots and LOTS of planning to get done before May! :yes: (And need to replenish the cash after my car purchase splurge.)

 

[zanzibar138]

Colobus are more... cute or comical looking.

Yes, that is more my general feeling towards monkeys

That's what made it so hilarious. It's NOT common here, and I'm not even sure how many people would even know what it refers to. Here's some history:

Oh, that explains it then. Thanks for the additional context.

Yes, price-wise, but even the Flo couldn't hold a candle to the luxury or elegance of this place.

Yeah, as much as I enjoyed the Poly, I've definitely stayed in more luxurious accommodations for far less!

Well, unfortunately, you can't. You HAVE to have a guide with you all the time and your fee only pays for about 2 hours.

Oh, well that's disappointing. Nonetheless, I would have sought out something else land-based to fill my time

Lady, you're not the center of the universe.

I feel these days there are many centres of the universe At least in their own eyes. That one we had at our KL Tower lunch was a doozy too!

Lots and LOTS of planning to get done before May! :yes: (And need to replenish the cash after my car purchase splurge.)

I feel your pain. I would have liked at least another year to recover from the wedding/honeymoon planning and spend before going on another big trip, but with Grandma coming along and her being 90 now, it just couldn't wait.

 

[Paulaparm]

Nice choice for your last dinner!!

 

[pkondz]

We’ve come to the last full day of this amazing, exotic trip to Tanzania.

Already?
We want more!

I’d made memories to last a lifetime and, yes, this goes on the list of places I would more than love to return to.

(See how dense this forest area is?!)

I wouldn't call it dense. Maybe a little slow, but everyone has their strengths.

The Jozani National Forest is home to the Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkey – the rarest monkeys of all of Africa.

Really! Huh!

I made a wrong turn when I got close as the signage sucks there, but this ended up being a happy little accident. As I was making a U-turn some movement caught my eye so I pulled the car over. Sure enough a couple of Colobus were hopping around in the trees looking for breakfast.

Happy little accident.

paid the nominal fee of about $8,

Not bad!

“BCJ”- he laughed and said that stands for “Big Chief of Jozani”.

So... my Swahili is nowhere (non-existent) near as good as their English... but "Mangoose" caught my eye.

that the little gecko reminded me SO much of the frogs in silhouette on top of the leaves in the Navi ride.

Yes!

(He also kinda reminds me of Randall in Monsters, Inc)

Hadn't thought of that, but...

Pretty close. And when I quoted that... I had no idea how close you were going to get to the other monkeys!

“There is no bunga-bunga between the monkeys.”

Whoa! Great shot! Just how close were you? Telephoto?

Such an exhilarating experience! …until a group of incredibly obnoxious tourists showed up talking loudly, obviously disturbing and bothering the monkeys. What is WRONG with people!!!?

I can only conclude they are simply stupid- you go all that way to see nature and then do your very best to scare it away.

Yeah... that's kinda dumb.
"We didn't see a single animal! No idea why not!"

I pulled up to the Baraza Resort, which absolutely blew. my. mind. I mean, I know there are luxury resorts, but this was like nothing I had ever seen anything close to in my life.

Fancy schmancy!

the cheapest I could find was $762/night.

So... Disney prices.

(That is a HUGE tray of CLOVES- like this is 2 1/2 feet diameter!)

Huh! You can make a lot of ham with that.

we all rode the dala-dala together to our launch point.

The what-what?

The walk down to the boat was very steep with quite a few stairs and I thought, hmm, this ain’t gonna be fun going back up after snorkeling for a while.

Wow that's a pretty shot.

soon enough I was under the water enjoying some of the best snorkeling on the planet.

High praise!

First I paddled out in a seemingly neutral current and then started to turn the other way and backtrack WITH the current.

Okay... sounds good........

(I did NOT want a repeat of Australia!)

erm... No.

Nice shot!

No sooner had I climbed back aboard that the skies opened up with a driving rain that kept me soaked and cold.

Ugh. Oh well... I guess you were already wet...

As I drove out, I saw a nice specimen of Baobab tree and snapped a pic just for Kelly.

took a really nice walk through the village waving to folks as I went.

Is that not samosas?

Like that shot. And... so different!

But I did find a young boy with his homemade sailboat enjoying simple things and making me wish more kids around here would be able to create and play simply without their faces in their phones.

Awww.

Like this shot too.

(The better, more popular, REAL Rock Restaurant)

As opposed to the lesser, less popular FAKE Rock Restaurant.

So pretty!

While I waited, another disgusting Instagrammer had a literal 30-minute selfie session with absolutely obscene poses in front of God and everyone.

I will never understand this craze... obsession.

I left to find other things to see and found a ghost crab:

Much better photo subject.

Nice shot.

The vanity show boarded the boat

she was rude and self-centered as expected and instead of being polite and letting the older folks go first nearly shoved her way off and made her way to the outside patio for yet another 50,000 photos.

Not okay. I've seen a few posts about "influencers" who demand free perks, etc. Love it when they're told "No" and throw a fit.

I did however, notice that a wedding party had also stopped there for drinks and she tried to mix in with them, (like was she hoping to score a freebie?) but after about 15 minutes of her nonsense, they completely ignored her and she ended up sitting all by herself on a chair for the next half hour. The whole scene was absolutely bizarre.

It certainly sounded unique so I chose the Blue Spirulina Ravioli: Ravioli filled with blue spirulina, cassava, parmesan cheese and served with crab ragu: $27

That looks really... well... weird. But I'd definitely try it.

I’m really not a fan of tiramisu but this sounded intriguing and admittedly did make a lovely picture.

That looks nothing like tiramisu! Huh!

 

[pkondz]

Okay, I don't think I know this one. I'll have to look it up.

Huh. I thought most people had heard "'Will you walk into my parlour?' said the Spider to the Fly." or a variation thereof. My mom has quoted this to me since I was a little kid.

Mind you, I saw it, took a quick peek and swam way with haste.

"It then chased me all the way to the boat. I climbed into the boat and it followed me on board! I managed to dodge it until we made landfall, whereupon I sprinted up the beach, jumped into the hotel shuttle and raced off. I glanced behind me and it was still following me! Slithering rapidly down the road in our wake. Soon we arrived at the hotel and I sprinted to my room and locked the door. For the next 3 hours, it kept knocking on the door, trying to get in, before it finally gave up and disappeared. Imagine my surprise when I boarded my flight a few days later and it had booked the seat next to me!"

 

[missjackiemcg]

Love the monkeys!! especially the baby with Mama. How irritating to be disturbed by idiot tourists. and idiot instagrammers for that matter.

What a gorgeous setting at the restaurant on the water! A perfect place to have a meal on your last night of the adventure.

 

[Steppesister]

C is for: City of Stone and Ancient Craftsmanship​

My last morning on Zanzibar, an island with a long history and unique culture, started off slowly with a bountiful buffet breakfast. I’d attempted to get a video of the buffet on my first day there, but hadn’t actually pushed the “record” button. Today, I was very careful to actually make sure I was capturing this luscious spread. It was nice to have had the chance to sleep in a bit and find some more rest before the last bit of sightseeing and inevitable stress.

​

I’d packed up for the most part the night before and was ready to roll after throwing in the last few things after breakfast. I was not looking forward to the drive back to Stone Town, nor to finding parking; I was pretty worried about the car being broken into and my luggage being taken too. I got a bit of advice from the hotel owner and she was certain I’d not have any problems so started on my way by 10:30. I would have been on the road 30 minutes sooner but check-out took forever. They had lost their internet connection and had to try multiple other ways to process my final payment.

The drive back to Stone Town took a full 2 hours and I arrived at 12:30. I was really full from my large feast earlier and didn’t have any plans to eat until dinner really. My flight wasn’t until almost 11PM so I knew I’d have to find something to snack on or find something at the airport. It also meant I’d have to kill a lot of time between the time I got to Stone Town and my flight.

A few snaps along the route from Kigomani Village to Stone Town:

​

Right off the hop I had something happen that really p!$$ed me right on off. Stone Town is an absolute nightmare to drive in and I made a wrong turn into a parking lot to simply turn around. I had to drive a little bit back to find a small area I could actually get turned around and was approached by a woman who told me I had to pay a fine for an illegal entry into this area. I told her I was only trying to get out to go the other way but she was absolutely insistent. Another man came to my widow and explained that they were sorry but those are the rules. I argued for probably too long and got a bit hot under the collar. The lady says at some point, “Well, this is Africa.” To which I spat back, “Well, Africa needs to do better!” (Sorry, I can get a bit sassy now and then.) I tossed the equivalent of $20 at her and left completely hacked off at myself for basically caving to a graft game. As I left, I looked back for a “NO ENTRY” sign and, sure enough, VERY cleverly hidden behind some bushy plants was a TINY little sign.

After a bit more hunting, I finally found an area to park in that did have a parking lot attendant. It seemed fairly watched over and safe, so gathered the things I dared not leave in the car, made sure it was totally locked up, took photos of the car, the lot itself, and set out. I got about 5 feet when I was obnoxiously pounced on by a “Tour Guide”. For $20 he would give me a personally guided tour of Stone Town to which I politely, but firmly, declined. I just wanted to wander and “get lost” in the narrow alleys and take my time with photography. Let me tell ya, these folks are absolutely relentless. Probably 4 or 5 more walked alongside me trying to broker a tour deal and each one assured me it’d be “unique”. I think after the 5th one or so, they all got the message that I simply was not interested.

I really didn’t have an agenda for my afternoon in Stone Town except for the East African Slave Museum and Church and to photograph some of the magnificent carved doors that Stone Town is so famous for. There are about 150 remaining historical carved doors left.

I’d wanted to wrap this TR up in one chapter, but I think the Slave Exhibit deserves a bit more commentary and, as the material is of such a sensitive, heavy nature, I think I’ll save that for last and give it the reverence it deserves. So let’s instead wander the ancient alleyways, nooks, and crannies of Old Stone Town, Zanzibar.

While a giant tourists’ trap, one of the sites I did come across (and knew about) was the childhood home of Freddie Mercury who was born in Stone Town. Here’s the basic Google info in case you’re a fan like me:

"Freddie Mercury" was born Farrokh Bulsara in Stone Town, Zanzibar (now Tanzania) in 1946, to Parsi parents with roots in India, and spent his childhood partly in India before his family moved to England in 1964, making him a British citizen later on. While he became a British icon with the band Queen, his origin lies in the East African island and Indian subcontinent.
Birthplace: Stone Town, Zanzibar (then a British protectorate).
Parents' Origin: Parsi, from India.
Childhood: Lived in Zanzibar and attended school in India.
Moved to England: Fled the Zanzibar Revolution in 1964 and settled in Middlesex, England.
Nationality: Became a British citizen, making him a British artist.

I was not too terribly eager to make this a must-see on my walk but did come across it and gave a passing nod to his music as I snapped a photo and moved on. Most blogs say that the museum itself if a total waste of time and not worth the price of going in.

​

Like I said, with no agenda there is not much to really tell you except that the tourist stores that are full of absolute crap are run by men even more annoying than the “tour guides”. They will get right up in your face and beg you to come into their tiny shops and tell you that their stuff is the best in Stone Town. I found each to be at least as junky as every single other shop, full of Chinese-made plastic magnets, T-shirts, and other trinkets. A firm “No thank you” with zero eye-contact usually worked to keep them from approaching too aggressively.

​

One shopkeeper was rather hilarious when he said, "There is a shortcut over there right through my shop... just this way...!"

Every now and then I’d stop at a particularly nice door and tried to discern the era and style it was crafted in. Believe it or not, there is quite a lot of history hidden among the carvings of the doors and this is what I learned:

https://www.artamine.com/blogs/arta...dk6Qzx5CtsGuryeuvvd-t5xH1UTh8ysUBU8Q06sYuGd3D

https://www.worldofinteriors.com/story/zanzibar-door-carvings

https://www.siyabona.com/stone-town-architecture.html


Trust me, take some time to read them at least a little; I think you’ll find it pretty fascinating. Crazy how the styles of carving communicated who lived there and what they valued.

(Zoom in...)





(The spikes are purely decorative and symbolize wealth; their origins are derived from India, where they were actually functional in deterring charging elephants (Gujarati style). )
​

Some of the hardware:

​

This random plaque below took me on a fun rabbit trail. Did you know that the Girl Guides are still active in over 150 countries?! Here’s the small bit I found:

“While specific detailed records for Stone Town are scarce in general searches, Girl Guiding in Zanzibar began under British influence, evolving as part of the mainland Tanganyika's movement (founded 1928) and eventually the national Tanzania Girl Guides Association, focusing on empowering girls with skills like swimming, challenging norms, and promoting self-reliance within Zanzibar's unique cultural context, particularly impacting local communities through projects like the Panje Project.”

​

A few more of the keepers from my walk through Old Stone Town:

(Quite the story and a famous figure from Zanzibar history)


(Salme's last house)


​

Eventually I ended up at the Old Fort. A short synopsis (because I’m kind of lazy and this is already written, Thanks AI!

“Zanzibar's Old Fort (Ngome Kongwe) is a historic 17th-century Omani structure in Stone Town, built to defend against the Portuguese, now a vibrant cultural center with craft markets, performance spaces (like the amphitheater for Sauti Za Busara), shops, and restaurants, offering a glimpse into the island's rich Swahili-Arab-Indian heritage, adjacent to the House of Wonders and Forodhani Gardens.”

(Something doesn't add up here... ^ )


​

Honestly, there really isn’t a lot to really see here. Yes, you can wander the grounds inside, but mostly it’s a few souvenir shops, a couple of small restaurants that mainly only have snacks and cocktails, beer, etc… and the tour is non-existent. By then, I really needed to find a bathroom and the only way you would be afforded the privilege would be to buy a drink from one of the kiosks. I was ready for a rest and was thirsty anyway, so this all worked out perfectly. I put in my order and asked where the toilet was. The server handed me a key, pointed to some vague place around the corner and off I trotted. It was predictably filthy but, in these cases, beggars dare not be too choosey.

Relieved, I sat at a table and enjoyed my super yummy, refreshing drink of hibiscus juice and ginger beer. While I sipped, I listened to a man, who introduced himself as a teacher of traditional music at a local music school, playing on a stringed instrument. I didn’t want to video him directly, but here is a sample of his music to enjoy briefly.

​

And with that, I mapped my way to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit to spend the remainder of my last few hours in Stone Town. Stay tuned for the final chapter and wrap up of this amazing trip to Tanzania.

 

[Steppesister]

Replies from the previous chapter coming. Ugh…. The busy-ness of life encroaches….

 

[Steppesister]

Yeah, as much as I enjoyed the Poly, I've definitely stayed in more luxurious accommodations for far less!

Exactly!!! The upcharge (at least for me) is getting to those luxurious places overseas. Airfare ain't cheap!

Oh, well that's disappointing. Nonetheless, I would have sought out something else land-based to fill my time

The good thing is that there is plenty to do there that would fit all tastes and tempos.

I feel these days there are many centres of the universe At least in their own eyes. That one we had at our KL Tower lunch was a doozy too!

I will never understand this phenomenon. Ever.

I feel your pain. I would have liked at least another year to recover from the wedding/honeymoon planning and spend before going on another big trip, but with Grandma coming along and her being 90 now, it just couldn't wait.

I feel like the older I get, the harder it is. I'm not as old as your grandmother, but you just never know when life's circumstances including health will change the ability to travel. I have the means and health now, so best get 'er done!

 

[Steppesister]

Nice choice for your last dinner!!

Unique for sure.

 

[Steppesister]

Already?
We want more!

Ok, one more chapter after the one I just posted then. But only one.

I wouldn't call it dense. Maybe a little slow, but everyone has their strengths.

Happy little accident.

Sometimes those are the best kind.

So... my Swahili is nowhere (non-existent) near as good as their English... but "Mangoose" caught my eye.

LOL!!! I didn't notice that! Good catch!

Pretty close. And when I quoted that... I had no idea how close you were going to get to the other monkeys!

This one was higher up but still close enough to get a nice view of.

Whoa! Great shot! Just how close were you? Telephoto?

LOL!!! I could have reached out and touched it should I place very little value on my fingers. It was maybe 3 feet away?

Yeah... that's kinda dumb.
"We didn't see a single animal! No idea why not!"

I've seen this so many times. Remember the platypus pond in Australia I wrote about? Stood there for 30 minutes in silence and then these 2 YAYHOOS walk up doing their best to wreck any chances at all of seeing one.

Huh! You can make a lot of ham with that.

Or clove oil for cigs or teething babies.

The what-what?

That's what they call the covered trucks for local transportation. Like the "Songthaew" in Thailand.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songthaew

Done that once.

Escalator.

Ohio.

About 6 or 7 years old.

Wow that's a pretty shot.

Thanks. I feel like I may want to pump up the green a tad more.

Nice shot!

Thanks! I didn't ID the fish, but it was one of the more pretty ones down there.

Ugh. Oh well... I guess you were already wet...

Yes, but now I was COLD and wet.

Is that not samosas?

I don't think so? I can't remember if there was actually any filling in them at all. I just remember them being very greasy and kind of bland.

Like that shot. And... so different!

Very!!!

.....where the shopping comes to you. Like low-tech Amazon!!

As opposed to the lesser, less popular FAKE Rock Restaurant.

But the one with better food. Just not as pretty of a setting.

I will never understand this craze... obsession.

Nor will I.

Not okay. I've seen a few posts about "influencers" who demand free perks, etc. Love it when they're told "No" and throw a fit.

Love those. Entitlement is something that will never sit well with me and I'll call it out every time.

That looks really... well... weird. But I'd definitely try it.

It was pretty good. But in hindsight, I'm not sure that I didn't love the fish from the "Other Rock" the night before better.

That looks nothing like tiramisu! Huh!

But sure made for a pretty photo.

Huh. I thought most people had heard "'Will you walk into my parlour?' said the Spider to the Fly." or a variation thereof. My mom has quoted this to me since I was a little kid.

I like it, just never heard it!

Imagine my surprise when I boarded my flight a few days later and it had booked the seat next to me!"

I'm NOT sharing my pizza pocket with him.

 

[Steppesister]

Love the monkeys!! especially the baby with Mama. How irritating to be disturbed by idiot tourists. and idiot instagrammers for that matter.

What a gorgeous setting at the restaurant on the water! A perfect place to have a meal on your last night of the adventure.

Why do people have to be so rude and suck so hard? Look... I like most people and am SO willing to give the benefit of the doubt but you know what... stereotypes, as they say now, are earned. No one cares if your hair is perfectly "blown" in the wind.

I'm glad I went. Sometimes the hype actually does live up to its name. But for the most part, I'm going to still try to get off the beaten tourist paths and shoot for the lesser-known. I think my trip to the Balkans in May is shaping up to be a trip full of rural places mixed with the bigger cities like Prague, Belgrade, Bran-Romania, etc...

 

[zanzibar138]

My last morning on Zanzibar, an island with a long history and unique culture, started off slowly with a bountiful buffet breakfast.

The perfect way to start a final holiday day. We seem to usually be rushing off to our flight home

The drive back to Stone Town took a full 2 hours and I arrived at 12:30.

Hopefully it wasn't quite as stressful driving back in the daylight?

Right off the hop I had something happen that really p!$$ed me right on off.

This is exactly the type of thing that would stop me from driving in a place like that.

I think after the 5th one or so, they all got the message that I simply was not interested.

Ugh. This too.

While a giant tourists’ trap, one of the sites I did come across (and knew about) was the childhood home of Freddie Mercury who was born in Stone Town.

I'm sure I must have read this somewhere along the line, but must have been one of those facts that goes in one ear and out the other. There is also a Freddie Mercury statue that's a bit of a tourist attraction in Montreux, Switzerland, where he lived for a while and apparently recorded a few albums. Like you, we didn't really seek it out, but just happened to walk past and it was fun to see.

Like I said, with no agenda there is not much to really tell you except that the tourist stores that are full of absolute crap are run by men even more annoying than the “tour guides”.

Hmm... maybe I don't want to go to Zanzibar after all lol!

Crazy how the styles of carving communicated who lived there and what they valued.

Pretty cool. It's nice to see that there are still so many remaining.

Relieved, I sat at a table and enjoyed my super yummy, refreshing drink of hibiscus juice and ginger beer.

Sounds delish and very refreshing!

Exactly!!! The upcharge (at least for me) is getting to those luxurious places overseas. Airfare ain't cheap!

Haha for me, Orlando is just about the most expensive place to get to as well

I feel like the older I get, the harder it is. I'm not as old as your grandmother, but you just never know when life's circumstances including health will change the ability to travel. I have the means and health now, so best get 'er done!

Definitely! But then there's also the house to pay off and renovations that need doing... First world problems!

 

[pkondz]

a bountiful buffet breakfast

Lots of interesting items there; but I did laugh at the donuts.
On the other hand, I audibly went "Yumm" at the unsliced fresh bread and tropical juice.

I’d attempted to get a video of the buffet on my first day there, but hadn’t actually pushed the “record” button.

That's why the guy at the omelet station didn't smile. He was like: "Again?!?!?"

They had lost their internet connection and had to try multiple other ways to process my final payment.

I wonder how often that happens.

All hand woven, I bet.

Don't know if that's the name of a town or a river or something else, but... Fun name!

was approached by a woman who told me I had to pay a fine for an illegal entry into this area.

Oh, no...

The lady says at some point, “Well, this is Africa.” To which I spat back, “Well, Africa needs to do better!”

(Sorry, I can get a bit sassy now and then.)

You don't say!

As I left, I looked back for a “NO ENTRY” sign and, sure enough, VERY cleverly hidden behind some bushy plants was a TINY little sign.

Huh.
I think here, if it was hidden, you could argue (to a judge) that you shouldn't be fined.
Thinking it's the opposite there.

Probably 4 or 5 more walked alongside me trying to broker a tour deal and each one assured me it’d be “unique”.

Ugh. GO. AWAY.

the childhood home of Freddie Mercury who was born in Stone Town.

Huh! Thought he was born in India.

Most blogs say that the museum itself if a total waste of time and not worth the price of going in.

Ah. Was curious what was in there.
But... yeah, if he was just there for a tiny bit... probably not much.
I wonder if it's even the same place.

the tourist stores that are full of absolute crap are run by men even more annoying than the “tour guides”.

They will get right up in your face and beg you to come into their tiny shops and tell you that their stuff is the best in Stone Town.

Are you sure it's not? Did you look?

One shopkeeper was rather hilarious when he said, "There is a shortcut over there right through my shop... just this way...!"

Indian door.

I read the article! (okay not all of them)

Holy ornate!

Did you know that the Girl Guides are still active in over 150 countries?!

Did not know that!

Like the beams on the... ceiling?

(Something doesn't add up here... ^ )

Actually... I think what's missing is punctuation. Try it this way:
"Erected by the Omani Arabs about 1700 from materials of a Portuguese chapel and stone residence nearby.
Besieged during civil disturbances 1753 & 1784. Later used as barracks and a prison..."

By then, I really needed to find a bathroom and the only way you would be afforded the privilege would be to buy a drink from one of the kiosks.

Hence the cycle continues. Want the bathroom, buy a drink. Had a drink? Now need the bathroom. Want the bathroom, buy a drink. ad infinitum

Relieved, I sat at a table

 

[pkondz]

Sometimes those are the best kind.

LOL!!! I could have reached out and touched it should I place very little value on my fingers. It was maybe 3 feet away?

Holy smokes!!!

I've seen this so many times. Remember the platypus pond in Australia I wrote about? Stood there for 30 minutes in silence and then these 2 YAYHOOS walk up doing their best to wreck any chances at all of seeing one.

I remember that.

That's what they call the covered trucks for local transportation. Like the "Songthaew" in Thailand.

ohhh...
(Never heard of songthaew either)

Done that once.

Escalator.

Ohio.

About 6 or 7 years old.

Ouch.
Then again, falling down stairs (or escalators) at that age... you just bounce right back.

Yes, but now I was COLD and wet.

Picky, picky, picky...

.....where the shopping comes to you. Like low-tech Amazon!!

Entitlement is something that will never sit well with me and I'll call it out every time.

Yeah... just not okay.

I like it, just never heard it!

Now you have.

I'm NOT sharing my pizza pocket with him.

 

[Wood Nymph]

The doors are very interesting. I can see the reason for the spikes on the doors in India, where there are charging elephants. But I assume that Zanzibar doesn't have them. In fact, does Zanzibar have any of the large mammals that are found on the mainland?

I hope you aren't foreshadowing a car break-in and robbery.

 

[Steppesister]

D is for Dreadful History and a Final Departure- THE END​

And this brings us to the final chapter of this most glorious trip of a lifetime. There are few places I would consider returning to before I scratched off a few more destinations from my Lifetime Bucket List, but in addition to Bali and Tuscany, I would put this at the top of that definitely someday list. Africa is a magical place full of friendly people and incredible nature and wildlife. Sure, it has it’s downsides too, just as any place where people are does, but there’s just something different and special about sub-Saharan Africa.

My last destination of the trip was to the East African Slave Trade Exhibit and Christ Church Cathedral. While I hoped my visit would be interesting and worth the time, I did not expect it to be as sobering and thought-provoking as it was.

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You approach the complex, which not only houses the church and museum, but also a small school for the blind, a café, bathrooms, and a small art store that sells local art made by students and find a gate. This gate stands at the entrance to the grounds and around it are standing dozens of tour guides waiting for their next group to be assigned to them. The price was very reasonable at around $5/pp and includes a rather lengthy history of the cathedral, a view of the slaves’ holding dungeon, and a rudimentary, but explicit, museum on the history of slavery in East Africa of which Zanzibar was the hub. Using the last bit of my cash (aside from the small amount I brought home as a souvenir) I paid and got my little receipt at about 2:30. At first I was a bit bummed that I’d have to be accompanied by a guide, but not only was it required, it turned out to be the best thing ever! I learned a ton I never would have had I toured alone.

The cathedral itself was completed in 1879 and is built on the site of the Old Stone Town Slave Market. When the church opened, it symbolically marked the official end of slavery in Zanzibar of which David Livingston and the British government played a huge part.

(I like big butt-resses, and I won't lie.) ​

My guide started the tour by having me sit inside the cathedral on one of the wooden pews. It was hot and stuffy inside, but the scattered fans did manage to keep it bearable. He gave me a very lengthy, in-depth,20-minute lecture on the history of the slave trade in East Africa which extended hundreds of years (about 1300 to be exact) and was mostly conducted by Islamic traders who needed labor in Asia and the Middle East. The English and other Western empires did not use Zanzibar as a slave trade hub but rather were instrumental in advocating for its abolition with people like Wilberforce, who my guide also mentioned in his lecture. The slaves mostly came from the interior by means of betrayal of their own or neighboring enemy tribes and marched overland to the port on Zanzibar.

Slavery officially ended on Zanzibar in 1876, but continued on the black market until 1906. I can’t remember some of the history, but know my heart grew heavy at the scope and depth of human suffering that took place on the ground I was on.

Here is a synopsis of the history should you be interested in it:

The English didn't use the Zanzibar slave trade directly as much as they pressured its abolition, but their involvement was complex: they were major players in the Atlantic trade, aware of the Indian Ocean trade, and eventually established a protectorate in 1890, using force to close the main slave market in 1873 under pressure from abolitionists, though slavery itself persisted for decades. While the Arab-Swahili networks dominated the East African trade, British treaties and naval power significantly curbed the large-scale export of enslaved people from Zanzibar to the Middle East by the late 19th century, ending it officially in 1876, but slavery continued on the island until 1909.

British Involvement & Pressure:

• Early Abolition Efforts: The British signed treaties with the Sultans of Zanzibar starting in 1822 to curb the slave trade, but these were often ignored.
• The 1873 Decree:
• Under intense British pressure, Sultan Barghash bin Said outlawed the import of slaves from the mainland, closing the main slave market in Zanzibar City, though internal slavery continued.
• Protectorate (1890): Britain established a protectorate, reducing the Sultan to a figurehead and increasing efforts to end slavery, with strong lobbying from London abolitionists.
• Enforcement: British officials like Consul General Arthur Henry Hardinge initially resisted rapid change to protect plantation owners, but the slave trade was officially abolished in 1876, with slavery finally ending in 1906
• The Zanzibar Slave Trade (Pre-British Dominance):
• 
  
• Scale: Zanzibar was the hub for the East African slave trade, with tens of thousands of slaves passing through annually in the mid-19th century, mainly from the mainland via routes like the one from Lake Tanganyika.
• Traders: The trade was dominated by Arab and Swahili traders, like the notorious Tippu Tip, who used enslaved people to carry ivory and work large plantations.
• Demographics: At its peak, enslaved people made up a massive portion of Zanzibar's population, possibly two-thirds.

In essence, the English role shifted from participating in global slave systems (like the Atlantic trade) to being the primary force dismantling the Indian Ocean slave trade centered in Zanzibar, though their actions were often slow and conflicted with local economic interests.

After my guide gave the overview of the slave trade itself, he shifted to the construction and meaning of the cathedral. As I said, it was built to celebrate and symbolize the end of slavery (officially anyway). He shared that the black tiled lines are the exact lines that the slaves would stand along in order to be inspected prior to purchase. The slaves would be lined up by sex, age, health, etc… They were looked over like animals and the women were subjected to intrusive exams as well. Physical fitness and ability to endure harsh conditions was frequently evaluated by forcing a slave to whipping while tied to a post where the altar of the cathedral is now located. This was intentional and while it could never undo the abhorrent treatment of fellow humans it does stand as a remembrance and reminder.

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The guide gave me a few minutes to wander in the church to admire the architecture and stained glass. A beautifully carved crucifix stands inside which is made from the wood of the tree that David Livingstone’s heart is buried under in a village in Zambia. His body is in Canterbury Cathedral.

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One one occasion, the main builder who was overseeing the project decided to go on safari for a few weeks and left the crew to carry on the project themselves. When he returned he was shocked to find that they had installed the columns at the entrance upside down!!! In the end, he decided to leave them as is and they remain a quirky misstep in the cathedral's construction.

(Compare these to those by the altar, which are right side up)​

From the cathedral’s interior, the guide led me to the museum building. This is where the horrific conditions and suffering of the slaves hit home. Two of the holding areas were left intact to highlight the conditions they had to endure. The space was small, maybe 30 feet long, 5 feet tall, and wide enough for 2 concrete ledges with a middle sunken section to fit. The ledges were where the people would be laid down side by side, all chained together; he made me try to guess how many each chamber would hold at a time. I said 20….

The answer was a shocking 50-60. The center recessed area, he explained, was for human waste, and once a day, the tide would wash up the drainage system “canals” and flush out the sewage. On top of the suffocating heat with only tiny ventilation holes, 50+ bodies stuffed in there, the stench of human waste and vomit and likely death, it’s literally unimaginable. I was moved. Deeply.

​

After this, he escorted me upstairs to the walk-through exhibits for me to go through at my own pace. It was a lot of verbiage and old photographs and to be honest, I didn’t stop to read every single one. A lot of it also focused on the history of Zanzibar, so I tried to focus on those that were of human stories and testimonials and those of the history of slavery in East Africa in general.

​

I would encourage you to consider the following when looking at slavery trends and numbers. By posting this I am IN NO WAY condoning or excusing either empire or system; it is simply to compare, as I myself had no idea the immense scope and magnitude of the Islamic slave trade being a bit more educated/familiar with the British/American slave trade industry. To say the least I was shocked. Skip if you are not interested- it is for further enlightenment in case you are wondering.

Comparing the scale of the East African/Indian Ocean slave trade by Muslim traders and the British Empire's transatlantic slave trade reveals differences in duration and total volume:

• Duration: The East African/Indian Ocean slave trade by Arab and Swahili traders spanned approximately 13 centuries (from the 7th to the 20th century), while the British Empire's primary involvement in the transatlantic trade lasted for roughly three centuries (peaking between the 17th and early 19th centuries before Britain abolished the trade in 1807).
• Total Volume (Estimated): Historians estimate that between 10 and 18 million Africans were trafficked in the trans-Saharan and Indian Ocean trades to the Arab world over its long duration. In comparison, British ships transported about 3.4 million Africans across the Atlantic between 1640 and 1807, out of a total of approximately 12.5 million Africans shipped by all European powers to the Americas.
• Annual Volume (Peak): During the late 18th century, the peak of the transatlantic trade, the annual rate of enslaved people crossing the Atlantic was estimated at 44,000. In contrast, in the first half of the 19th century, the annual figure for enslaved people leaving East Africa for Arab lands was estimated to exceed 3,000.

Key Differences in Demographics and Mortality

• Gender Demographics: The British transatlantic trade primarily enslaved men (two out of every three slaves) for labor-intensive plantation work. The East African/Indian Ocean trade reversed this proportion, enslaving roughly two women for every man, with roles including domestic servants and concubines.
• Mortality Rates: Mortality rates during the Middle Passage across the Atlantic were high, at around 10%. However, the percentage of slaves dying in transit in the trans-Saharan and East African trade routes was significantly higher, estimated to be between 80% and 90% due to the harsh overland journeys.
• Integration and Descendants: In the Americas, enslaved populations grew naturally, leading to significant African diaspora communities. In the Muslim world, high male castration rates (leading to high mortality) and the nature of slavery often meant that descendants were less likely to form large, visible communities today.

One fact that struck me as incredibly interesting was the fact that male slaves under the Islamic slave trade were often castrated therefore creating a perpetual and never-ending market for new slave labor. That did not happen in the Western/Atlantic Trade therefore, more slave communities and populations grew organically in the Americas and British Empires. Of note, the mortality rates were like night and day as well- 10% for the trans-Atlantic crossing as opposed to up to 80-90% for the African overland journey for those being traded out of Zanzibar. Again, not excusing ANY system whatsoever, but the differences in both gender trafficking, mortality, duration of the industry, and sheer scope were vastly different comparing the two.

Here are a few examples of the exhibits I stopped to read:

​

On the way out, I stopped at the Slave Monument. 5 large statues of slaves chained together stand as a testament to the lives of those lost over the centuries. I couldn’t help but to think to myself… “If only humankind would have the decency to end it altogether as the modern-day slave trade is alive and well, even under our own noses every day. More can and should be done.”

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In all, I spent about an hour and a half on my tour. It was very, very well worth it, and while definitely not “fun” I am glad I took the time to do this. I am grateful for my life and the many blessings I enjoy.

From there, I went to fetch my car and worked my way back to the airport. I was hours and HOURS early, but had to turn the car in by 5:00. Yes, I was still temped to drain the gas before I gave it back. Sigh… I didn’t, but sure had that mean thought.

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My flight wasn’t until 10:20P, so I had a LONG time to kill. I sat in the entrance area by the one and only café and scrolled on my phone, caught up on my trip notes, and finally bought a sandwich, pastry, and latte to enjoy while waiting. Finally, at 8:30 they let us get our boarding passes (by then there were quite a few folks waiting to get checked in) and check our luggage. I followed the crowd to the immigration check and onto the gate. By the time I was all boarded I was actually ready to go back home. I felt I’d had such a wonderful adventure but I was tired and ready to be in one place again for a while.

The flight was uneventful (you never know these days if there’s gonna be a cuckoo-whack job onboard) and I think I actually slept some of the 6 hours enroute to Doha.

​

My layover wasn’t long if I recall, but I amused myself with the opulence and muchliness of the Doha Airport. Ooh-la-la! Seriously, this is an over-the-top hoo-rah with gardens, fountains, creeks, art of all kinds, live music, high-end shops, nice restaurants, you name it! It made laying-over easy.

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Qatar Air took me the rest of the way home, well at least to JFK, and a short hopper finished the job onto Nashtown.

(not one but two meals; and they weren't bad either!)​

And that friends ends this trip to Tanzania.

Final thoughts:

• Disney actually does an okay job at re-creating a safari experience. The trucks are huge, but do accurately resemble the open-air concept you’d find on the African savannahs.
• The Disney movie The Lion King is shockingly also very good at depicting life on the savannah in terms of animal behavior and landscape.
• If you ever get a chance to book a safari in Tanzania, DO IT!!! There is nothing scary or “roughing it” about it. The lodges are clean, safe, and very comfortable. You will see so, SO many animals every time you go out on a game drive. Honestly, it’s all very surreal.
• Yes, it can be very expensive; you get what you pay for.
• Zanzibar was really a one and done for me. If you want the tropical, beautiful, all-inclusive experience, you’ll pay far too much there. There are cheaper, and more beautiful places to go.

Okay, with that, I’ll finish by letting you know my next big adventure is a 2 ½ week road trip through Central Europe and the Balkans in May. Highlights include: Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, Belgrade, Montenegro, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Salzberg and back to Prague with dozens of stops along the way. It’ll be an almost constant on-the-go, but there’s a lot to see in that area. I’m deep in planning mode and almost done with reserving hotels. Then onto walking tour routes, finding meal options, things to see and do, pre-buying tour tickets, etc…

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I will likely start a Pre-TR sometime in April, so until then, join me on my Fall Disney Trip thread:

The ABC's of a FALL Trip with Friends, Food, Wine, and a Conference​

Thanks to those of you who stuck with me. I know I am a very slow reporter and take forever to finish my TR’s. But I want to be thorough and entertaining and trip reporting takes time for sure. I write because I want get my story to "paper" and my photos edited properly. Again, thank you for reading along and especially to those who dropped a comment along the way; that makes the writing far more fun. I’ve made some wonderful friends along the way on the DIS.