Sewing Pattern Question

[Duchie]

I've got a question regarding sewing patterns and I'm looking for a variety of opinions. I've been sewing for a LOOOOONG time and I know I should know the answer to this, but it's still something I struggle with every time.

I honestly don't know what size pattern I should make. In the past I've been told both to take your measurements and use the size chart on the back of the envelope AND to ignore the envelope and make the size you normally wear. Right now I'd like to start on my Halloween costume so I've pulled out a few patterns. I took my measurements and compared them to the envelope, and according to that I'd have to use the pattern that is 3 sizes bigger than I normally wear.

I know - it's a really basic thing. But for some reason I get it wrong more often than I get it right. I'm more of a self-taught sewer and I can make anything from a pattern, but not real great at altering patterns on the fly.

So how about it all you experienced seamstresses out there - how do you figure out what size pattern to make?

 

[LindaBabe]

Got an old sheet? I used to make my pattern up in old fabric to try for fit. The pattern companies allow for a certain amount of ease - how much you like is not necessarily the amount they allow for! IMO, you should make the size you know you wear, but Try it out first before cutting up your expensive fabric!

I took my measurements the other day to order something on line and I should be ordering like a size 22. In reality that size was about 40 pounds ago, and what I have in my closet are 16/18s.

 

[JanB]

Your skills and experience sounds a lot like mine. I have a business making custom window treatments, bedding, etc --- but I don't sew clothing for myself very often because of the fitting "issue". I find it easier to "fit" a window than to "fit" a human body.

I did recently make some tunic tops (semi-fitted) for myself. What I learned, and what I would recommend ---

First of all, I totally tried to forget my off-the-rack size.

I carefully took all of my own measurements.

Going by the measurements printed on the pattern envelope, I selected the size based on Bust measurement. I did not necessarily select the largest pattern size (even if hips point you to the larger size) because hip/tummy size is simpler to alter without impacting other parts of the fit. I think the Bust is a bit more complicated (if it is fitted or semi-fitted) because it can also impact the Underarm fit.

Using the altered pattern pieces, make a sample garment using either lining, muslin, or other throw-away fabric. You don't have to complete the entire garment -- just take it far enough to determine fit.

I did find that the pattern allowed more ease than I preferred. So I made adjustments to the sample/practice garment. If you use a long & loose stitch length on your practice garment, then you can take it apart, trim out your adjustments, and then use it for your pattern pieces.

My subsequent garments fit really well.

Also, it isn't unusual that the pattern size you end up with will be 2 or 3 sizes larger than your off-the-rack size. Use measurements as your starting point.