Point and ahoot advice

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

Recommendations for a new point and shoot to take to parks for around 200$? Thanks!

 

[hakepb]

Recommendations for a new point and shoot to take to parks for around 200$? Thanks!

Personally, I would go for the Canon SX280..its image quality is about as good as you can get with a small sensor, that is available in most stores.


But, I'd also keep my eyes open for a photographic upgrade to an enthusiast compact with a faster lens (lower f/ ) and/or a larger sensor...(like the Canon s120 /g15, Panasonic LX7, Oly ZX2, Nikon p7700)

Adorama has a nice kit for $219 on the Fuji XF1. Its a really nice photographers camera with the faster f/1.8 lens and larger than average 2/3" sensor. The a Fuji has a manual zoom ring, which is generally a love it (fast and precise response) or hate it (2 handed operation) feature.
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/fujifilm-xf1

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

Personally, I would go for the Canon SX280..its image quality is about as good as you can get with a small sensor, that is available in most stores.

But, I'd also keep my eyes open for a photographic upgrade to an enthusiast compact with a faster lens (lower f/ ) and/or a larger sensor...(like the Canon s120 /g15, Panasonic LX7, Oly ZX2, Nikon p7700)

Adorama has a nice kit for $219 on the Fuji XF1. Its a really nice photographers camera with the faster f/1.8 lens and larger than average 2/3" sensor. The a Fuji has a manual zoom ring, which is generally a love it (fast and precise response) or hate it (2 handed operation) feature.
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/fujifilm-xf1

What about canon elph 330?

 

[hakepb]

Personally, I wouldn't want a camera without Tv, Av, and M modes because you sometimes know the scene better than the cameras Auto mode can guess.

But it has the same 12MP CMOS sensor with DIGIC 5 processing as the SX280, so when Auto guesses right, the pictures will be decent for a point and shoot when you have good lighting.

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

Personally, I wouldn't want a camera without Tv, Av, and M modes because you sometimes know the scene better than the cameras Auto mode can guess.

But it has the same 12MP CMOS sensor with DIGIC 5 processing as the SX280, so when Auto guesses right, the pictures will be decent for a point and shoot when you have good lighting.

What are tv av and M?

 

[wiigirl]

Personally, I would go for the Canon SX280..its image quality is about as good as you can get with a small sensor, that is available in most stores.


But, I'd also keep my eyes open for a photographic upgrade to an enthusiast compact with a faster lens (lower f/ ) and/or a larger sensor...(like the Canon s120 /g15, Panasonic LX7, Oly ZX2, Nikon p7700)

Adorama has a nice kit for $219 on the Fuji XF1. Its a really nice photographers camera with the faster f/1.8 lens and larger than average 2/3" sensor. The a Fuji has a manual zoom ring, which is generally a love it (fast and precise response) or hate it (2 handed operation) feature.
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/fujifilm-xf1

x2

 

[Skywise]

What are tv av and M?

Tv = Shutter priority/speed mode (Shutter TIME - How long to keep the shutter open when taking the picture)
Av = Aperature priority mode (how wide to open the iris of the camera)
M = Manual (Figureitoutyourself!)

If you're planning on working your way up to be a hobbyist/pro, having these modes will help when you get an idea of how the camera works and you can make a better judgement call on a picture than the built in computer can.

As it is, the Canon Elph's provide "scene modes" where you can guide the camera's computer into what it is you're trying to do - Like "Night scene", "Portrait" or "Fireworks".

(Note I'm biased towards Canon Elphs )
The 330 looks good but I'd also take a look at the 110 -
The 110 has more pixel resolution (takes "larger" pictures) and its lens has better low light capabilities but the 330's lens is more wide angle (you can fit more scenery into the photo) and the camera sensor has a higher ISO (which allows you to take lower light pictures which might offset the lens in the 110).

I don't think you could go wrong with either.

 

[hakepb]

Photography is the blend of 3 factors, Shutter speed, Aperature and ISO. Increasing one factor will decrease the others.

In a very basic sense, you want the lowest ISO you can get away with..without motion blur.

Tv is shutter priority. If you took a blurry action shot with a 1/100 (fraction of a second) shutter speed and ISO 100, TV mode would let you set a faster shutter speed like 1/400 and the camera would choose ISO 400. The higher ISO would be more grainy with a bit less color depth, but it is still much better than a blurry photo.

Av is aperature priority, how much light the camera lets in. Aperature is measured with f/ and its a little confusing. A small f/1.8 number is twice as bright as a f/2.8. Brighter means you can use a faster shutter speed and/or lower ISO. (Good things for pictures ). This is why a camera with a fast lens is better.
Sometimes you purposely want a dark aperature like an f/8 or f/11 when you photograph something bright like sunsets or fireworks.
There's also the creative depth of field (fuzzy backgrounds) but its not as big of a deal with a small sensor PnS

M is Manual control where you can manually choose the 3 variables. Generally the other 2 options can handle most scenarios, but its nice to have options.

P Mode is Program Auto, it lets you set ISO, (while the camera guesses Aperature and Shutter) so its a little better than Auto..

Some manufacturers call the 4 modes PASM instead of P,Av,Tv,M

 

[hakepb]

Tv = Shutter priority/speed mode (Shutter TIME - How long to keep the shutter open when taking the picture)
Av = Aperature priority mode (how wide to open the iris of the camera)
M = Manual (Figureitoutyourself!)

If you're planning on working your way up to be a hobbyist/pro, having these modes will help when you get an idea of how the camera works and you can make a better judgement call on a picture than the built in computer can.

As it is, the Canon Elph's provide "scene modes" where you can guide the camera's computer into what it is you're trying to do - Like "Night scene", "Portrait" or "Fireworks".

(Note I'm biased towards Canon Elphs )
The 330 looks good but I'd also take a look at the 110 -
The 110 has more pixel resolution (takes "larger" pictures) and its lens has better low light capabilities but the 330's lens is more wide angle (you can fit more scenery into the photo) and the camera sensor has a higher ISO (which allows you to take lower light pictures which might offset the lens in the 110).

I don't think you could go wrong with either.

FWiW, I'd prefer the 12mp sensor to the 16mp sensor. Smaller pixels capture less light so they don't do as well in challenging situations. Generally cramming more pixels on a sensor means you have to make them smaller.
Canons most expensive SX cameras have the 12mp sensor because it results in better pictures.

 

[photo_chick]

Personally, I wouldn't want a camera without Tv, Av, and M modes because you sometimes know the scene better than the cameras Auto mode can guess.

But it has the same 12MP CMOS sensor with DIGIC 5 processing as the SX280, so when Auto guesses right, the pictures will be decent for a point and shoot when you have good lighting.

While I mostly agree with this, you can also leverage scene modes to your advantage if you don't have Tv, Av or M. Scene modes give priority to certain settings and knowing which ones will favor shutter speed or aperture can help an auto camera give you better than auto results.

And don't forget the 4th variable, light. It determines your exposure value. That is where manual mode and exposure compensation come in. Many issues with exposure are a result of how the camera meters the scene. Having all the manual modes in the world does no good if you're still basing the shot solely off the exposure value the meter gives you. Tv and Av without exposure comp may as well be auto modes.

What are tv av and M?

Given that you're asking this I'm thinking you probably just want a solid camera you can pick up and shoot on auto or with scene modes (please correct me if I'm wrong here). There's a number of them in your price range. Decide what factors are important.... amount of zoom, battery type, size, video, etc.. and start narrowing down from there.

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

While I mostly agree with this, you can also leverage scene modes to your advantage if you don't have Tv, Av or M. Scene modes give priority to certain settings and knowing which ones will favor shutter speed or aperture can help an auto camera give you better than auto results.

And don't forget the 4th variable, light. It determines your exposure value. That is where manual mode and exposure compensation come in. Many issues with exposure are a result of how the camera meters the scene. Having all the manual modes in the world does no good if you're still basing the shot solely off the exposure value the meter gives you. Tv and Av without exposure comp may as well be auto modes.

Given that you're asking this I'm thinking you probably just want a solid camera you can pick up and shoot on auto or with scene modes (please correct me if I'm wrong here). There's a number of them in your price range. Decide what factors are important.... amount of zoom, battery type, size, video, etc.. and start narrowing down from there.

Yes looking for something easy but good pix. Looking at canon elph 330

 

[hakepb]

The Elph 330 looks to be an OK basic camera. I would rank many cameras you see in big box stores below that Elph.

I think you could do a bit better, but you mày get more value out of an extra battery and/or a bigger memory card (then buying a more expensive camera)

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

The Elph 330 looks to be an OK basic camera. I would rank many cameras you see in big box stores below that Elph.

I think you could do a bit better, but you mày get more value out of an extra battery and/or a bigger memory card (then buying a more expensive camera)

What do you recommend?

 

[havoc315]

What do you recommend?

You're in a tight price range where quality can start to jump much higher with just a little more spent. For example, I've been very impressed with the Panasonix LX7 which goes for around $300.

Amazon has the Nikon P330 for $230. It has a much faster lens and bigger sensor (for improved image quality).

I haven't used it first hand, but I've read good things about the Samsung EX2f, which now goes for about $300.

If you want a superzoom, the Canon SX260/280 are decent choices.

The best image quality camera I see for under $200, is probably the Fuji XF1.

For your typical budget compact camera... like the Elph line, I don't think you are getting image quality better than a *good* smart phone camera. But you do get the addition of some optical zoom.

 

[hakepb]

^thats a good list.
Although I think the SX280 seems 2 stops better than most smart phones (other than the Nokia Lumia 1020 with its huge 1" sensor) in terms of getting a marginal picture of a basketball game vs a blur....because the SX280 has full control and optical stabilization while a smartphone is mostly Auto.

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

^thats a good list.
Although I think the SX280 seems 2 stops better than most smart phones (other than the Nokia Lumia 1020 with its huge 1" sensor) in terms of getting a marginal picture of a basketball game vs a blur....because the SX280 has full control and optical stabilization while a smartphone is mostly Auto.

So no sx280?

 

[Tinkerbellsmomma]

What about Sony cypershot dscwx80?

 

[hakepb]

So no sx280?

The SX280 is a good travel zoom camera. I was trying to say the Sx280 is better than most phone's cameras. Sorry I confused you.

FWiW, the "prototypical Disney camera" is one with a faster lens (like f/1.8) for low light rides/situations. But a good travel zoom like the SX280 can manage to get a few OK (good enough for Facebook posting, but not for printing a great 8x10) shots in low light. It just depends on your everyday need for zo be low light at home.

Personally, I went with a travel zoom camera, because I wanted the zoom at home.

 

[hakepb]

What about Sony cypershot dscwx80?

I think I'd prefer the Elph 330, but overall they are about the same.
FWIW, This review prefers the Elph, too
http://mobile.pcmag.com/?origref=ht...349093e8e480350178b1-sony-cyber-shot-dsc-wx80

(Although I never just look at one review, its best to read a few.)

 

[havoc315]

The SX280 is a good travel zoom camera. I was trying to say the Sx280 is better than most phone's cameras. Sorry I confused you.

FWiW, the "prototypical Disney camera" is one with a faster lens (like f/1.8) for low light rides/situations. But a good travel zoom like the SX280 can manage to get a few OK (good enough for Facebook posting, but not for printing a great 8x10) shots in low light. It just depends on your everyday need for zo be low light at home.

Personally, I went with a travel zoom camera, because I wanted the zoom at home.

I haven't ever used the newest Elph or the newest SX, but I have tried earlier versions of each. It was always my perception that the SX was better than the Elph overall. Maybe things have changed. But it was always my impression that the SX was slightly better overall. While the Elph was more akin to good smartphone + optical zoom.

The thing to remember, especially with advances in technology -- in good light, with still subjects, a good photographer can get really really good images with ANY camera.

So the Elph, etc--- they are all capable of very good images. (Just as a good smart phone is capable of very good images.)

But there is a pretty big step up in image quality between those bargain $150 cameras, and some of the cameras that can now be found between $200 and $300. Particularly, if you ever want to shoot in more challenging light.

When you can spend $50 more, and get a 1.8 lens and larger sensor... it's harder to recommend the bargain camera.