Photos ON the rides at WDW?

I heard if you use flash photography during the rides that they take you off to disney jail where you will be forced to go to condo selling meetings for the rest of your trip. :rotfl2:
 
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Now, you are not allowed to use flash in the Haunted Mansion but, thanks to a kind CM who let me be the last guest on the attraction for the evening, I was able to ride by myself and get these photos:


Just a friendly note: If you use flash during normal operating hours, you will be noticed and spoken to by a CM. Also, your riders around you will really be upset.

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well i dont want to annoy anyone so i'll turn the flash off i know how to do that but anyone have any idea what setting i could put it on instead to get some decent pics?

I'm also a scrapbooker... and i love to photograph EVERYTHING hehe :lmao:
 

A SLR camera refers to a Single Lens Reflex camera. Most "good" non-digital cameras fall into this category (as opposed to many of the cheaper, throw away / bargain cameras). Basically a SLR camera is one which lets you look directly through the lens and take a picture of what you see, as opposed to some of the older cameras that used a different viewer from the actual lens. In other words a SLR camera gives you much more accurate pictures than the older alternate lens cameras.
As another poster mentioned, on many SLR's you are giving the option of changing the shutter speed (how fast the shutter opens and closes while taking the picture) and aperature size (the aperature is basically the size of the opening that exposes the film to the light) thus being able to manually manipulate how much light is needed for a shot. For example, if you use a very fast shutter speed, much more light is needed in that short time to fully expose the shot, whereas a slower shutter speed gives the light more time to expose the shot. BUT, the problem is the slower the shutter speed the more blurrier your picture could be (not only are you getting more light, you are getting even the smallest movements that can cause blurriness.) Pretty much any shutter speed slower than 1/30 of a second will very likely cause blurriness, unless you use a tripod or other flat non-moving surface to stabalize your camera). Aperature setting can also increase / decrease the amount of light needed. A large aperature setting (like 1.7 or 4) opens the aperature much more thus letting in more light. BUT, a large aperature setting also decreases the focal point (distance) of your picture. (at 1.7 the ideal picture is one that is a lot closer to you).
Another thing is of course the ISO (speed) of the film. A higher film speed requires less light, BUT it also reduces picture quality. If you wanted to take a portrait of somebody under good lighting conditions a low film speed is much better. If you want better action pictures or lower light pictures than a higher film speed is better. Typically in most stores you can find up to 400 speed film. BUT if you really want to concentrate on lower light pictures on your trip you might go to a camera shop and pick up some 1000 speed film (although the picture quality is a lot lower, the difference for capturing low light shots is tremendous).
If you have a SLR camera you might want to try and get all of your lower light shots in one day, and use high speed film, slower shutter speeds and larger aperatures, and then use slower film (100 or 200 speed) for the rest of your shots. Most cameras don't allow you to change film once you have inserted it (although there are some that do).
 
Oh, one more thing I should have mentioned. Most SLR cameras now-a-days are considered point and shoot. Basically all you have to do is point the camera at the object, and push the button. All of the shutter speeds and aperature setting are done for you automatically. So if my last post seemed a little complicated, don't worry about it, the camera does it all for you.
But, if you want to get a little creative with your shots, many of these cameras do let you overide the automatic feature and make your own settings.
Also, if you are looking into buying a SLR, and you think you might be interested in using some very high speed film (anything over 400) be sure to check that the camera can actually handle it. Because it is not a very common film speed, many of the new cameras won't accept that speed film (or they will set themselves at 400 speed instead of the higher speed)
 
I love to take pictures on rides. I don't use my flash on any of the dark rides (where it'll ruin it for others) and also, if I think it'll be a distraction, I change for LCD display to viewfinder so the light isn't visible. I usually set the camera for "sports mode" which helps with the movement. Now that I have a digital, I take alot of pictures. Many of them don't come out, but alot do! And with a program like Adobe Photoshop, you can correct some of the images too. Here's one I took of the Yeti on EE. I had to lighten it alot, but I still think it looks good!


Yeti Swooping down! I barely got him in the picture!



DD on EE-she's sitting next to me.


View from the top of EE


Going up EE

The main thing to remember is to hold on tight to your camera! You don't want it to go flying off!
 
As long as you don't use your flash, I could careless what you take a picture of. To me, it's extrememly annoying when your riding with a total strnager and they keep taking flash pictures.
 
I did ACCIDENTALLY take a flash photo of Jack Sparrow on POTC last month. YES, it truly was an accident...I borrowed a really great camera for the trip so a could experiment with flashless photography, night shots, etc. I honestly thought I had the flash turned off when I took the photo but it wasn't. Other than my DD8 getting mad at me (and complete shame for disturbing those around me), nobody said anything to me over a speaker! (and no, the photo didn't turn out).

I did manage to get some neat flashless shots on the trip. Here is one of my favorites. Cheesy but kinda neat...

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Here is a flashless photo taken from our table in CRT...

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TheGoofster said:
Oh, one more thing I should have mentioned. Most SLR cameras now-a-days are considered point and shoot. Basically all you have to do is point the camera at the object, and push the button. All of the shutter speeds and aperature setting are done for you automatically. So if my last post seemed a little complicated, don't worry about it, the camera does it all for you.
But, if you want to get a little creative with your shots, many of these cameras do let you overide the automatic feature and make your own settings.
Also, if you are looking into buying a SLR, and you think you might be interested in using some very high speed film (anything over 400) be sure to check that the camera can actually handle it. Because it is not a very common film speed, many of the new cameras won't accept that speed film (or they will set themselves at 400 speed instead of the higher speed)


this is true, however, this all depends on the camera the user has. Unfortunately, in low light settings, on full auto mode, Digial SLR's will not set true settings for the perfect photo. It generally will compensate for the low light with a slow shutter speed, essentially ruining the photo with blur.

Unfortunately most "point and shoots" can't capture low light in the way the user would want, without a flash. The higher end cameras can but, it will require some user knowledge and manual manipulation to get the photo correct.

I use a Nikon D200 and to get shots in low light I will adjust the ISO to around 300 (each camera differs in how high well it handles a high ISO) and get a shutter speed no slower than 1/250.

However, the camera itself is not all that matters. It's the lense as well. For outdoor rides, a typical point and shoot camera is great. It's when you're in darker areas that the higher end cameras excel. I won't go too much into lenses but I will say that the Nikkor 18-200 VR is a great lense and allows you to take low light photos while moving.
 
>"However, the camera itself is not all that matters. It's the lense as well."<

Oh, without a doubt, but what I've found is that most (not all) but most of the people who get into extra lenses already have a good (or at least a working) understanding of cameras. I figured that I was already getting too wordy, and so left it at that.

Also, as to digital cameras, I will leave that alone. I have a very basic digital camera, but I don't know enough about them and their differences with non-digital SLR's to offer any opinions.
Let me also encourage anybody who might have more than just a passing interest in photography to take at least a basic course. Even though today's cameras are designed for ease of use, when you start learning about the different settings and features of your camera, you will find that there is so much more that you can actually do.
 
i just have to mention that i LOVE the other photos of EE that were posted. It's my FAVORITE ride, and im just bummin that i didnt think to take those pictures! I only got where the track ends. NEXT TIME THOUGH!!!
 
TheGoofster said:
>"However, the camera itself is not all that matters. It's the lense as well."<

Oh, without a doubt, but what I've found is that most (not all) but most of the people who get into extra lenses already have a good (or at least a working) understanding of cameras. I figured that I was already getting too wordy, and so left it at that.

Also, as to digital cameras, I will leave that alone. I have a very basic digital camera, but I don't know enough about them and their differences with non-digital SLR's to offer any opinions.
Let me also encourage anybody who might have more than just a passing interest in photography to take at least a basic course. Even though today's cameras are designed for ease of use, when you start learning about the different settings and features of your camera, you will find that there is so much more that you can actually do.

Absolutely!

The main differences between the standard point and shoots (non DSLR) and Digital SLR cameras are many. The main difference is the lenses and the photo sensor size.

Obviously this is not in the interest of all but, many of you photo takers may be interested in this information:

Let's compare the new Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2 (point and shoot costing around $460) vs. the Nikon D200 (Digital SLR costing around $1,800 with kit lense and upwards of $3,000 with higher end lenses):

Both of these cameras are at the higher ends of their respective categories. Both take INCREDIBLE photos. The Panasonic has the same photo resolution as the Nikon (believe it or not!). They BOTH have 10 mega pixels (believe it or not!).

however, here's a big difference. The Panasonic has a sensor size of 1/1.65" while the D200 has a sensor size of 23.6 x 15.8 mm. The larger sensor will allow for more overall size of the photo (so even though they have the same resolution, the D200 will create a more intensive image).

Of course, the D200 is much faster 1/8000 compared to Panasonic's 1/2000. However, most will never use that speed. The main difference in the lense. The interchangeable lenses will allow for better sharpness, color, and contrast, and focus.

I would suggest though (as a camera lover) that if you are someone wanting great shots, even fast shots, in low light great shots, yet don't want to spend nearly $2,000 on camera equipment or get in the photography business, get the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX2. It is the pinacle of point and shoots and you will be astounded by the clarity and quality.

Of course, if you want to get into the interchangable lenses, get more serious and not spend $2,000 but still get a GREAT camera, get the Nikon D70S. Many of you on here know Safetymom. She uses the Nikon D70s, great camera at a great price.

Here is a great review of each camera if you are interested:


Panasonic Limux DMC-LX2

Nikon D70

Nikon D200
 
civileng68 said:
this is true, however, this all depends on the camera the user has. Unfortunately, in low light settings, on full auto mode, Digial SLR's will not set true settings for the perfect photo. It generally will compensate for the low light with a slow shutter speed, essentially ruining the photo with blur.

Unfortunately most "point and shoots" can't capture low light in the way the user would want, without a flash. The higher end cameras can but, it will require some user knowledge and manual manipulation to get the photo correct.

I use a Nikon D200 and to get shots in low light I will adjust the ISO to around 300 (each camera differs in how high well it handles a high ISO) and get a shutter speed no slower than 1/250.

However, the camera itself is not all that matters. It's the lense as well. For outdoor rides, a typical point and shoot camera is great. It's when you're in darker areas that the higher end cameras excel. I won't go too much into lenses but I will say that the Nikkor 18-200 VR is a great lense and allows you to take low light photos while moving.

Wow! Between you and the Goofster, I think I just figured out my problem! Thanks!! Honestly, you do realize that these are some of our families fondest memories, and I'm messing up all the pictures!! So this helps a great deal!
I have an Olympus Stylus 710. It's a great little digital camera for a beginner like me. But the "fireworks" setting works 1 out of 30 times. ha ha, yes, that's an accurate count. And now I know it is the movement that blurs it because the slower shutter speed captures it, but I need to keep the camera steady somehow. I can't imagine using a tripod during Wishes, but I bet if I get a good spot where I can set it down somewhere, that will help. Keep the pointers coming. I can use all I can get.
 
Hey TracieD, here's something else to think about. If you were to use a tripod (perhaps store it in a locker until you need it at night) to shoot some of the fireworks, there is another trick you could try.
If your camera allows it, you can set the shutter speed on 10 seconds or more (many cameras even allow an infinity shutter speed which opens when you start shooting the picture, and stays open until you close it) then you can actually get multiple firework explosions on one picture. Now, you do have to make sure that the camera and tripod are very steady (any movement at that shutter speed will totally blur the picture), also, if the fireworks explode in the same place they will overlap each other. But if you can get different explosions in different areas of the sky, the final picture will be breathtaking. (you may have seen pictures of multiple lightining strikes, this is how they do it). If you are interested in trying this, I would recommend practing at home a little, to make sure you are ready for the big event itself. (One of the BEST things about digital cameras is the ability to take as many shots as you want without waisting film).
In fact, if you want a neat way to practice, try this. set your camera up in a room that you can get completely dark. Now turn off all the lights so it is pitch black. Start the picture (open the lens with the setting on infinity), now use a flashlight and light up your face somewhere in the frame of the picture. Turn off the flashlight, and move to another place in the frame and do it again. Do this four of five times in different spots. Now close the shutter. When you look at your picture (if you have done it correctly) you should clearly see your face in different spots. If you can do this, than you are ready to tackle multiple firework shots.
 
TheGoofster said:
Hey TracieD, here's something else to think about. If you were to use a tripod (perhaps store it in a locker until you need it at night) to shoot some of the fireworks, there is another trick you could try.
If your camera allows it, you can set the shutter speed on 10 seconds or more (many cameras even allow an infinity shutter speed which opens when you start shooting the picture, and stays open until you close it) then you can actually get multiple firework explosions on one picture. Now, you do have to make sure that the camera and tripod are very steady (any movement at that shutter speed will totally blur the picture), also, if the fireworks explode in the same place they will overlap each other. But if you can get different explosions in different areas of the sky, the final picture will be breathtaking. (you may have seen pictures of multiple lightining strikes, this is how they do it). If you are interested in trying this, I would recommend practing at home a little, to make sure you are ready for the big event itself. (One of the BEST things about digital cameras is the ability to take as many shots as you want without waisting film).
In fact, if you want a neat way to practice, try this. set your camera up in a room that you can get completely dark. Now turn off all the lights so it is pitch black. Start the picture (open the lens with the setting on infinity), now use a flashlight and light up your face somewhere in the frame of the picture. Turn off the flashlight, and move to another place in the frame and do it again. Do this four of five times in different spots. Now close the shutter. When you look at your picture (if you have done it correctly) you should clearly see your face in different spots. If you can do this, than you are ready to tackle multiple firework shots.

OH I'm going to try it. My camera does have that setting. I wondered why anyone would want to do that!! And yes, that is the exact reason why my DH got a digital camera for me. I do a lot of graphics for web pages, and I love to scrapbook. He also got a memory card. When we were at WDW two weeks this summer, we took almost 1200 pics :blush: Out of the 30 we took during wishes, here is the ONE that turned out (but with your coaching, I can't wait to show you the ones I get after our December trip :thumbsup2 )
This pic is still a little dark, but I guess it should be that way?
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OH and I forgot to mention, that one little place is not a fingerprint or smudge on the lens, it's the smoke from the previous fireworks.
 
Wow, nice shot, looks like your well on your way to being a great photographer :thumbsup2
One other thing I forgot to mention before. If you do decide to use a tripod, make sure you start scouting out a spot well before the fireworks begin. Find a place that will give you the best unobstructed view of a large area, with the castle as the main focal point. Also, make sure that you get set up before others start milling around you, so you can politely (if need be) ask others not to block your shot. (when using a tripod you don't have as much mobility as you would while holding your camera).
I hope you get some wonderful pictures on your next trip. I would also suggest (if time allows) going on-line to find more tips and advice on your specific camera. Once you start realizing just how much more than simple snap shots a camera can do you will be simply amazed.
 
POTC - Pirates of the Caribbean.
Apparently it's some kind of ride or movie or something. :rolleyes1
 

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