I did our wedding book through Shutterfly and am very pleased with it.
For the Disney trip we just finished, I actually pre-purchased their photobook at the same time that I pre-purchased the CD. Well, after trying to start to put a book together, I just e-mailed them to get a refund for the book. Their site has the Disney backgrounds but overall is much less customizable than Shutterfly's.
I like to include a lot of text/journaling in my books...basically like a trip report with pictures...but all of Disney's "text" pages still included stock images that took up like half the page! They were going to limit me to 790 characters (about 120 words on average) on an all-text page! As you can see, I'm way too wordy for that!