Our dog bit DS...what do we do now?

[Vacation Lover]

DS10 was eating toast this morning and Baxter (our dog) took it right out of his hands. (We never feed him at the table and he had food in his dish, but he has been becoming more and more brave about taking food off the table, etc. lately) Anyway, DS ran after Baxter yelling "NO!" and Baxter growled and bit him right on the face. It didn't break the skin, but there's a mark.

Now what do we do with Baxter? He's generally a good dog--very sweet (although large and hyper) around the kids. But after this incident, I feel it would be irresponsible to keep him with so many kids coming over to our house. I should add that he did something similar to me a couple of months ago. Didn't bite me, but he snapped at me after I reprimanded him for taking food off the table.

I don't even know how to go about finding a new home for him, if it were to come to that. I'm worried that if we gave him back to the Humane Society, they'd have to euthanize him, either because of the biting incident or because they couldn't find a home for him. I've lived with dogs all my life and he's like a member of the family, but I'd feel awful if he bit someone else. Help!

 

[mommy-on-the-move]

It might sound slightly "out there" but have you thought about trying a canine therapist/dog whisperer type thing? My sister resorted to this with her two dogs when they experienced alpha dog issues after a house move (I know- sounds so hippy but it did work)

I think it might be worth consulting your vet first to ask an opinion.

I am really sorry you're having to deal with this situation.

 

[SLK1]

Have you had him checked by the vet? A friend's dog became very food aggressive as he got older and I think - not sure though - they gave him some kind of mood enhancer (???), or at least the dog equivalent of that.

Another friend's dog was very food-aggressive, even as a puppy so they could not keep the dog - too many kids and too much liability.

Good luck!

 

[Tiffa]

I dont mean to sound mean but it sounds like you did not take the steps to correct the dog the first time this happened, you must maintain the pack leader role, he should have been put on his back and made to stay there until he submits (yes I watch Ceaser) but I also work with dogs, now it kinda sounds like you are a little afraid of him, he will play off of you. You are in charge and you have the power to fix this. Hitting the dog or smacking his nose will not help, if you get a chance watch the Dog Whisperer.

 

[SLK1]

I dont mean to sound mean but it sounds like you did not take the steps to correct the dog the first time this happened, you must maintain the pack leader role, he should have been put on his back and made to stay there until he submits (yes I watch Ceaser) but I also work with dogs, now it kinda sounds like you are a little afraid of him, he will play off of you. You are in charge and you have the power to fix this. Hitting the dog or smacking his nose will not help, if you get a chance watch the Dog Whisperer.

This worked for us recently - our female, spayed dog (a small, 12 lb. cockapoo - cute as can be!) started humping our 1 yo. I was ready to get rid of the dog!!! It was very unsettling, but then I realized it wasn't aggression; it was dominance, so I had to reestablish her as the bottom of the pack. I honestly don't know if I could do it to a bigger, biting dog!

 

[nilseks]

I just typed out a big reply to this and it flew out into cyber space somewhere and didn't post, so I'll do this one quickly...I'm not judging just being matter of fact and I don't have a lot of time to retype...

First off a shelter probably will not even take Baxter, they will tell you to take him to a vet and have him euthanized. Shelters are run on shoe-string budgets and they can't take on the liability of taking in a known biter. Also it would not be responsible for you to re-home him, again that is a liability, you would need to disclose that he has bitten.

Honestly it sounds like you have a very simple food aggression issue. By simple, I mean the solution is simple--Baxter is not allowed to be out with the family when people are eating. He should be put in a crate or in another room. I work with dogs for a living and my dogs are not allowed to be out when my children eat, even though they are wonderful dogs. Why? Because in this house, we are alpha. Simple as that. He should also be 'put away' when your children's friends come over. This is to protect him as much as the children. You never know when a child will poke a dog, pull their ear, or otherwise provoke a bad situation that would 'invite' the dog to bite.

Your post didn't give a lot of details but my guess is you're not dealing with a truly aggressive dog, you're dealing with a food aggression issue that can be remedied by adjusting the way you deal with Baxter. A few private sessions in your home with a good trainer and your situation should not be a problem.

If you have any questions, PM me.

 

[chloe770]

Please have the dog checked by a vet before you make any decisions. I had a dog who was getting older who bit me out of the blue for no good reason. It was such a strange situation that we decided to take him to the vet and have him evaluated. It turned out the dog was having thyriod problems. the vet gave us meds to balance him out and he was back to the old dog we loved in no time. our pets are an extention of our family. I agree with you about not wanting to take the chance with an agressive dog around children, but please give the dog a chance with a vet check and maybe some behavior training. A shelter wont adopt out an agressive dog. He will most liking be killed.

Best of luck . I know the decision is a tuff one.

 

[Vacation Lover]

Great responses--thank you! I was expecting most replies to be, "He bit a child. Put him down. Period."

Previous posters are right...we recently moved and never had these problems before the move. The aggression is only about food; otherwise he is playful. On the previous occasion, I did make him submit by lying on his back, but we still have some alpha dog issues with him. He is a 90 pound Lab/Austrailian Shepard mix and my husband is pretty much the only one in the family who is clearly dominant to him. He usually listens to me, but not always...

I'm going to call the vet and see what he has to say. Thanks everyone for not being judgemental. I knew I could come here for some sound advice.

 

[puffkin]

I am sorry, but I think it is terrible that one incident like this would make you want to get rid of what sounds like a very nice dog! Animals are NOT DISPOSABLE creatures. A shelter would not adopt out a dog in this situation so you would basically be giving him a death sentence.

First of all, if a dog takes food from a child, the child should NEVER go after the dog. And a child should be taught from DAY 1 that you NEVER take food/toys from a dogs mouth.

Second, it seems like the dog is starting to forget that he is the bottom of the pack. You have to constantly stay on them about this type of thing or they start to get "brave" and do things like snatch food. It is a discipline issue that you, the parent should be on top of.

I would suggest that when you are eating that you lock up the dog. After a while you can let the dog out, but then set boundaries of how close he can come to you when you have food. Also teach your children to be careful with their food and not make it too tempting for the dog. Maybe limit eating to the kitchen area or something so the dog will learn his boundaries. With proper training it should be an easily corrected problem.

Finally, our Beagle started getting food aggressive (very atypical of the breed) about a year ago. Along with some other health issues (ear infections, allergies, weight gain, lethargy) we had him checked out and it turned out he had a thyroid condition. Now that he is on medication, he has been much better with food. Not to say he won't go for it if it is laying out unprotected (like when my son leaves snacks laying on the sofa or something) but he won't snatch it from your hands or anything like that. So it may be a medical issue too.

I am not trying to be judgemental, but I know so many people who will get rid of an animal for very minor reasons. I just feel that there are very few situations that it is warranted and it really upsets me when most of the time proper training could easily solve the problem.

 

[StitchandPooh'sMom]

I agree with the other posters. We have a lab, and he would do just about anything for food. Labs are not known for being "mean" or "aggressive" in general, but they definitely respond to food. I don't know much about Australian shepherds except that they show herding behaviors.

Just to reiterate some very good points:

If your dog snatches food, your kids should NEVER chase him down. It doesn't matter how friendly your dog is - once he is in possession of that food, it is his in his mind and he will defend his right to have it. You can work on the snatching part by leaving food out, leashing him and walking him by it, telling him to "leave it", then rewarding him when he does. That doesn't handle the aggression part, though, and I recommend a visit to the vet and some visits with a reputable trainer to re-establish who is in charge in your house.

Our lab is still a puppy and weighs 70 pounds. He has never shown any aggression, but he is bouncy and bigger than most of my kids' friends. For that reason, he is kenneled or put outside when their friends are over. It wouldn't take much for him to knock one of them over, even if he was just being playful. They are allowed to play outside with him, but they have snacks inside without our dog around.

Any change in temperament may be the result of a medical issue. Even something as common as an ear infection can make your dog irritable and prone to snap. It sounds more like a behavior/training issue, but I would check any medical issues and ask your vet to recommend a good trainer to deal with the dominance issues.

Forgot to add - if you have recently moved, there may be some stress issues for Baxter. Once when we moved, our dog (another lab) was depressed until he saw his couch coming off the moving truck! Dogs respond to the changes in our lives just as we do.

Good luck! Don't give up on Baxter! It sounds like a very fixable situation!

 

[princessmom29]

I am sorry, but I think it is terrible that one incident like this would make you want to get rid of what sounds like a very nice dog! Animals are NOT DISPOSABLE creatures. A shelter would not adopt out a dog in this situation so you would basically be giving him a death sentence.

First of all, if a dog takes food from a child, the child should NEVER go after the dog. And a child should be taught from DAY 1 that you NEVER take food/toys from a dogs mouth.

Second, it seems like the dog is starting to forget that he is the bottom of the pack. You have to constantly stay on them about this type of thing or they start to get "brave" and do things like snatch food. It is a discipline issue that you, the parent should be on top of.

I would suggest that when you are eating that you lock up the dog. After a while you can let the dog out, but then set boundaries of how close he can come to you when you have food. Also teach your children to be careful with their food and not make it too tempting for the dog. Maybe limit eating to the kitchen area or something so the dog will learn his boundaries. With proper training it should be an easily corrected problem.

Finally, our Beagle started getting food aggressive (very atypical of the breed) about a year ago. Along with some other health issues (ear infections, allergies, weight gain, lethargy) we had him checked out and it turned out he had a thyroid condition. Now that he is on medication, he has been much better with food. Not to say he won't go for it if it is laying out unprotected (like when my son leaves snacks laying on the sofa or something) but he won't snatch it from your hands or anything like that. So it may be a medical issue too.

I am not trying to be judgemental, but I know so many people who will get rid of an animal for very minor reasons. I just feel that there are very few situations that it is warranted and it really upsets me when most of the time proper training could easily solve the problem.

I know where you are coming from with with trying to work with a dog before getting rid of it, but I don't think I could question anyone who got rid of a dog that bit their child. That is not a "minor issue" it is a major safety concern, and even with the best training you can never guarntee that it will not happen agian. I would personally try to work with the dog in this case b/c it was clearly not the dog's intention to hurn the child, but that has to be left up to the parent. A child's safety should be the most important consideration here.

 

[Momma2dakidz]

Wow, how common i see this, Please get in touch with me and i will help you step by step to correct this issue. If you "get rid of him" that will not solve future dog problems, that will possibly teach your child that animals are not worthy of treating with respect.
I am an obedience instructor and i also do dog rescue, and work closely with the local humane agents. Have i put a dog down for biting, yes, did i try other options first most definately. I see both sides and can help you when i have way more specific details, but you also have to commit to helping this dog heal while you and your son heal.
First off all meals come from your hand your food with him. His kibble is actually something you own and share with him. Second you take him in to be checked over head to toe. (i second the thyroid cause) Third you look for an obedience training school and get you and your son into class with the dog. A good instructor can teach a child as young as 3 to "lead" the dog.

In the first step you put the food in a bag and give him 3-4 pieces of kibble from your hand at a time untill his meal is finished, then you progress to putting 3-4 pieces in his dish.

The second part, getting a complete evaluation is critical! He may have a thyroid or allergy condition and both are easily treated with an inexpensive med.

The 3rd step involves household changes. Get a crate and place him there when anyone eats. (you can fade this out in a couple months) You will need to establish leadership and trust. Chasing a dog or smacking or yelling does none of this, it just triggers a prey drive factor.

If you want to talk more indepth please pm me or email me and i will give you my number. I have helped many people keep there dogs when it has seemed impossible.
Best wishes,
Becky

 

[DannysMom]

I see that you've already gotten some great replies this morning, so I'm not sure that I can add anything new, since I only scanned the replies & did not read thoroughly. But like other posters I think your first step shoud be a trip to the vet to rule out any physical reasons for a change in behavior/ temperment. After any medical probelms are addressed you probably should look into some formal remedial training.

Your thoughts that he's been upset or confused by the move are good ones. A good trainer should (hopefully) be able to help you get back on track with your dog. There is a ton of dog training info on the net, here is one link for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers

Just to be ever so slightly positive the fact that the dog bit your child is certainly not good, but the fact that he did *not* break the skin is. It means that your dog has exhibited some measure of "bite control" -- that is, he was not trying to hurt or injure your son, just warn him. There is no stopping a dog that is intending to do damage, and that would be a different situation altogether. Your dog totally sounds "rehabitatable" (if that's a word --LOL) with some work on your part with a decent trainer.

 

[Debbie7452]

It looks like you have gotten some great expert advice. I just wanted to toss in my POV. I was a victim of a dog bite as a child. My Aunt's German Shepherd bit me severely on the face and I ended up with stitches/scars. Even so, I did not want her dog put down. I would have felt the guilt forever!
She offered to do it immediately, but I was adament.

I did not provoke the dog and we could never figure out why it happened, but since she did not have children, he lived a long and happy life and never bit anyone again. I stayed far away from him for sure! I always forget about the scars until someone asks me where I got them.

I'm so glad your son is OK!

 

[rottiemom]

First off, hugs to you OP for dealing with this & trying to do the right thing. I hope your little one is OK.

I know where you are coming from with with trying to work with a dog before getting rid of it, but I don't think I could question anyone who got rid of a dog that bit their child. That is not a "minor issue" it is a major safety concern, and even with the best training you can never guarntee that it will not happen agian. I would personally try to work with the dog in this case b/c it was clearly not the dog's intention to hurn the child, but that has to be left up to the parent. A child's safety should be the most important consideration here.

Agreed, princessmom but in this instance it appears to be food agression & it hasn't been made clear to the dog that this is unacceptable behaviour (as evidenced by the dog snapping at the OP when the OP repimanded the dog for similar beahviour...the dog's response is now escalating). The first time the dog snarled (that would have resulted in a CTJ moment in our house) the second time he bit, not breaking skin. A stop needed to be put to this the first time, it definitely needs to be done now.

Regarding what you said about the best training: With training also comes vigilance. Most people "train" their dogs (6 weeks at Petsmart?) and then do nothing else for the rest of the dog's life. Commands and behaviour need to be reinforced. If a dog is able to get away with something once it will try it again and again. A dog will not respond to "no!" if it doesn't know what "no" means. Training a dog is work & it does not end when class is over. But the results are well worth it.

I think that it's essential that you consult with a behaviourist & get Baxter into obedience training. ALL of you should go to classes with Baxter & he should learn to obey each and every one of you. Positive reinforcement, treats & rewards. The dog will learn that obeying is a good thing. The behaviourist will help you with the food agression, as will the trainer but the training itself will help to make your lives much easier. You have a 90lb dog and even a good natured one with no issues can knock you or your child down & hurt you accidentally. Do not take chances, get the dog into obedience classes now.

In the interim keep Baxter crated while the family has meals, do not give the dog any opportunity to steal food from anyone. Also, keep the dog gated or crated when you have people over. Baxter will appreciate having his own space.

FWIW my current rottie is a rescue & she was completely untrained when we got her at 2years. The change in her after just 2 weeks of basic obedience was amazing. It helped to build her confidence and she couldn't wait to learn her commands because it was all positive. We've kept her training up & have had 6 years of delight. A well trained dog is a true pleasure. We do keep her loose at meals but she knows to stay in the next room, in a down/stay while we're eating. And she obeys everyone in the house, right down to my 4 1/2 year old son (who started by telling her to "sit" before her meals when he was 18 months old).

Please ask your vet if they can reccomend a good behaviourist & trainer. Food agression is workable. Baxted just needs to learn that his behaviour will not be tolerated.

And good luck!

 

[princessmom29]

First off, hugs to you OP for dealing with this & trying to do the right thing. I hope your little one is OK.


Agreed, princessmom but in this instance it appears to be food agression & it hasn't been made clear to the dog that this is unacceptable behaviour (as evidenced by the dog snapping at the OP when the OP repimanded the dog for similar beahviour...the dog's response is now escalating). The first time the dog snarled (that would have resulted in a CTJ moment in our house) the second time he bit, not breaking skin. A stop needed to be put to this the first time, it definitely needs to be done now.

Regarding what you said about the best training: With training also comes vigilance. Most people "train" their dogs (6 weeks at Petsmart?) and then do nothing else for the rest of the dog's life. Commands and behaviour need to be reinforced. If a dog is able to get away with something once it will try it again and again. A dog will not respond to "no!" if it doesn't know what "no" means. Training a dog is work & it does not end when class is over. But the results are well worth it.

I think that it's essential that you consult with a behaviourist & get Baxter into obedience training. ALL of you should go to classes with Baxter & he should learn to obey each and every one of you. Positive reinforcement, treats & rewards. The dog will learn that obeying is a good thing. The behaviourist will help you with the food agression, as will the trainer but the training itself will help to make your lives much easier. You have a 90lb dog and even a good natured one with no issues can knock you or your child down & hurt you accidentally. Do not take chances, get the dog into obedience classes now.

In the interim keep Baxter crated while the family has meals, do not give the dog any opportunity to steal food from anyone. Also, keep the dog gated or crated when you have people over. Baxter will appreciate having his own space.

FWIW my current rottie is a rescue & she was completely untrained when we got her at 2years. The change in her after just 2 weeks of basic obedience was amazing. It helped to build her confidence and she couldn't wait to learn her commands because it was all positive. We've kept her training up & have had 6 years of delight. A well trained dog is a true pleasure. We do keep her loose at meals but she knows to stay in the next room, in a down/stay while we're eating. And she obeys everyone in the house, right down to my 4 1/2 year old son (who started by telling her to "sit" before her meals when he was 18 months old).

Please ask your vet if they can reccomend a good behaviourist & trainer. Food agression is workable. Baxted just needs to learn that his behaviour will not be tolerated.

And good luck!

All I am trying to say is that it has to be that family's decision wether they ar comfortable allowing the dog to remain. They have to decide if they feel that with proper training for both dog and people it can safely remain in the home.

 

[mom2aredhead]

A child's safety should be the most important consideration here.

I agree...
My short answer - bye bye dog. I'm not going to be popular with the dog lovers here, but if it were my son, I wouldn't be comfortable letting the dog remain in the house. Period.
Regardless of the reason the dog bit the child, the steps that could be taken, etc., there are no guarantees that the dog won't do it again, and next time it could be worse than a scratch with no broken skin. You hear so many stories of "good dogs" and owners that "never thought" the dog would bite a child but did. Sorry - once would be enough - I would choose my child over the dog in a heartbeat.

 

[Vacation Lover]

Thanks for keeping the replies coming. Baxter has had pretty extensive obedience training in the past and, as I mentioned, we've had dogs our entire lives and have actually used some of the techniques suggested when he was a puppy. I think using the common sense approaches that have been mentioned will work to put Baxter back in his place in the "pack." I called our vet and they gave me the name of a good dog trainer but, strangely, didn't recommend a check up. He is due for one soon, though, so I'll call back and get it scheduled.

I usually lock him in our sunroom when kids who are nervous around such a big dog come over (using a baby gate so he's not entirely shut off). However, we have an invisible fence so someone could come into contact with him when they enter our yard.

My biggest concern is the WHAT IF... I honestly think we can overcome the issue and my own kids will be fine with him. But what if something happens to a neighbor or something and it comes out that he had a supposed history of aggressiveness? You never know how people will twist things, you know?

 

[Matt'sMom]

Your post didn't give a lot of details but my guess is you're not dealing with a truly aggressive dog, you're dealing with a food aggression issue that can be remedied by adjusting the way you deal with Baxter.

Another dog trainer with 25+ years of experience chiming in. I agree with nilseks and the other trainers who have posted responses. This sounds like a basic food aggression & inappropriate possesiveness issue. The behavior can be modified, but will require guidance from a trainer/behaviorist with experience dealing with these types of issues. And safety must ALWAYS come first--do use the crate consistantly, and avoid taking any risks during the training period. I will say, however, that if you are not comfortable with attempting the rehabilitation of this 'rescue' dog... then there is no shame in turning him over to someone else who is aware of the issues and willing to commit to the challenge.

One thing I noticed in a reply, that I have to address: Please do NOT ever attempt to use an 'alpha roll' as a means of behavioral correction. That can be dangerous, as such an aggressive action could trigger an aggressive response. It is not typical canine behavior to forcibly roll other less dominant canines. Submissive canines actually voluntarily roll over of their own accord, as a means of demonstrating their submission to a more dominant animal. May sound like a fine line, but there is a major difference from the dog's point of view. To physically force your dog to roll over (and then holding him in that position) is not a constructive training tool... and the Monk who originally introduced the whole 'alpha roll' concept has long since retracted that suggestion.

 

[rt2dz]

First, I’m very sorry. I know (from experience) that this can be very horrible. You can’t find a new home for him or take him to a shelter without full disclosure. Most shelters will not take a dog that bites. I’m not sure the full history of the dog (haven’t read any replies so it might be there) or the dog’s age. But all is not necessarily lost. Actually, everything you say in your post screams “needs training” to me and not “hopeless case”. It even seems like this is only food related, but just in case...

What I would do is sit down and call a professional dog trainer. Not the kind that work at Petsmart (although they can be good), but a trainer who works training dogs all day every day. Preferably a trainer who is experienced with aggressive behaviors. If you can’t find one that does work with aggressive dogs (specializes), then another trainer can probably recommend someone to you. Big bonus if you find a trainer (specializing in aggressive behaviors or not) that is experienced with your breed—they’ll send you to the right aggressive behavior specialist.

If you don’t know where to start looking for a trainer, find a breed club for your breed. Or call some reputable breeders (check AKC recommendations). The dog world is very closely entwined, even from far off areas. A breeder across the country could recommend an equally good breeder close to home who’ll know the right trainer to contact. Vets are also a good resource, but I’ve found vets are generalists and you need specific issues.

If you have done professional training in the past (not just group classes), contact the trainer you used previously, if only for a recommendation. Dogs need consistent training. When we need to board our pet for vacations we send to a board-n-train place to keep everything up. Granted that isn’t often since our dog(s) generally go to my parents’ house, but every couple of years or when my parents are also out of town, I send our dog for maintenance. Besides, it’s a better boarding facility than if I just went to a local boarding facility like Best Friends or the vet.

A good dog trainer, especially one that specializes in aggressive breeds, will not lead you wrong. They will give the dog a full evaluation and give you a complete unbiased review so that whatever you do you make an EDUCATED (not emotional) decision.