Need advice on lens for new Canon T2i

[WDWAtLast]

I am upgrading from my five year old Canon S3 IS to a true DSLR After reading, comparing and comparing some more, I have decided that for the price, the T2i will be the best camera for me right now. I mainly take pics of my kids and vacation shots. The only sport we are involved in is gymnastics - so low lighting is almost more of a concern than fast action shots. I only use my S3 IS as a P&S, even though it has some manual controls. I am reading Understanding Exposure now and understand that the f stops control how much light comes into the camera, but am not sure what the number means on different lenses (like 70-300mm F4-5.6)

There are some rebates available until May 5 - and I am not sure what is the best deal for what I actually need to get started. It was recommended to me (Thanks, Janet!) that I get the T2i with the 18-135 mm lens instead of the standard 18-55 mm lens. With the bundle rebates, I could add a 70-300 lens for $400 more, the 55-250 mm lens for $150 more or the 75-300 mm lens for $100 more. Are any of these "must haves" now for the price, or should I save my money for different or better quality lens? I would rather have 2-3 great lenses than too many "just OK' lenses. Thanks for any input and advice!

 

[Gianna'sPapa]

I'm not a Canon shooter, but I do shoot sports. School gyms are notorious for poor lighting for cameras. You will need what is referred to as a fast lens. That is a lens that has a large aperture (low f number/stop). Now depending on your style that could be a prime lens (non-zoom) or a zoom. If you choose a zoom then the preference is a lens that has the large constant aperture throughout the range of the zoom. That is normally f2.8. Of course, that lens is large, heavy and more expensive than the consumer variable aperture lenses. That is what that 4-5.6 means. The largest available aperture is 4 at 70mm and gets smaller (less light) as you zoom to 300mm where the max aperture is 5.6. Its been my experience that the most used sports lens is the 70-200mm f2.8. The Canon version is pricey, but there are cheaper (?) third party versions like the Sigma and Tamron. You will get mixed comments on the use of third party lenses (I use them). There are some f4 zooms which are cheaper, but you will have to use higher ISO's to get the same exposure which will introduce noise. I don't know what the highest usable ISO is on the T2i.

 

[mom2rtk]

Hey!

If you think you'll want more reach than the 135 (you probably will) then go for the 55-250 lens. It is generally accepted as a much better lens than the 75-300 (resist the temptation to sacrifice quality for that extra 50mm). But trust me, you will greatly prefer having that 18-135 over the 17-55. It will cover 95% of your shooting needs, whereas with the 17-55 you'd be swapping out lenses far more often.

You are right, the numbers on the lens are the maximum aperture that lens can accomplish. The smaller nthe number, the larger the aperture (lens opening). If there's a range of numbers (like 3.5-5.6) that's because it's a zoom. The smaller number (with the largest opening) is at the widest end of the lens (18 on the 18-135) and the larger number is at the telephoto end of the lens (135 on the 18-135 lens).

That "kit" will be a great starting point. Learn your way around your camera, and at some point you'll say "I wish I had a lens that........" Probably it will have something to do with performing better in low light. Those "faster" lenses that do better in low light tend to cost $$$$$, especially the fast zooms. There are some prime lenses (lenses with a fixed focal length) that are fast and relatively cheap, so that's where a lot of people start their lens collection. The best bargain in fast lenses is the Canon 50mm f/1.8 at around $100. But that's about it for the real bargains. I'm not a huge fan of the 50mm length (although others are) so I don't use mine much. I moved on quickly to the popular Sigma 30mm f/1.4 at around $400 (although I think it's more now).

Hope that all helps. Let us know if you have other questions. Good luck and have fun!

 

[blestmom]

Oh wow...I'm so glad you asked this question. I just came here to ask the same thing.

Are you getting a kit lens, or just the body and then adding your own lenses?

 

[bob100]

I am upgrading from my five year old Canon S3 IS to a true DSLR After reading, comparing and comparing some more, I have decided that for the price, the T2i will be the best camera for me right now. I mainly take pics of my kids and vacation shots. The only sport we are involved in is gymnastics - so low lighting is almost more of a concern than fast action shots. I only use my S3 IS as a P&S, even though it has some manual controls. I am reading Understanding Exposure now and understand that the f stops control how much light comes into the camera, but am not sure what the number means on different lenses (like 70-300mm F4-5.6)

There are some rebates available until May 5 - and I am not sure what is the best deal for what I actually need to get started. It was recommended to me (Thanks, Janet!) that I get the T2i with the 18-135 mm lens instead of the standard 18-55 mm lens. With the bundle rebates, I could add a 70-300 lens for $400 more, the 55-250 mm lens for $150 more or the 75-300 mm lens for $100 more. Are any of these "must haves" now for the price, or should I save my money for different or better quality lens? I would rather have 2-3 great lenses than too many "just OK' lenses. Thanks for any input and advice!

unfortunately "great lens" cost $$ !
The T2i and 18-55IS is a good combination but shooting sports indoors in a low light environment usually requires a large aperture telephoto lens which can cost $500 - $2000 depending on the brand and features. On the other hand if you can get close enough I've shot indoor gymnastics with a 50mm 1.8 lens - only $80
The 55-250IS is good for outdoor daylight sports (but whatever you do don't get the 75-300 !)

 

[nbaresejr]

The T2i is a great starter DSLR. I purchased it last July and really enjoy using it and learning all the great stuff DSLR's do. Read and learn as much as you can.

My kit came with the camera, 18-55 and 55-250. Since then i have added a 50 1.8 and a Sigma UWA 10-20. There are times i really wish i had the 18-135 lens but i think that is more for being lazy then anything else. There are rarely situations where i cant just use my feet as the zoom. The 55-250 is a nice lens but i dont think i have used it more then 2 or 3 times (one of which was the safari at the animal kingdom).

I am looking into new lenses right now and the 2 i am looking at are the Sigma 17-70 2.8-4 and the Sigma 17-50 2.8. I am leaning toward the 17-50 because of the constant 2.8.

 

[photo_chick]

My advice, since you're just starting out with a DSLR don't spend a lot on lenses. You don't know what you're going to want to use or what you will need. And no one else can tell you for sure which lenses will fit you. After you've been shooting for a while you'll have a better idea of what you need.

Now, that said, run far far away from the Canon 75-300 f/4.0-5.6. It's old, it's slow, it's muddy, has wicked fringing and in my opinion Canon really needs to drop this lens from thier line. If you really feel like you need a telephoto zoom from the start that's inexpensive and a solid entry level lens I'd go with the 55-250.

Some people say hold out for high end glass. And there's nothing wrong with that. But sometimes we want the focal lengths covered and it's a long wait to save up a grand for a high end lens. You just have to balance what you need with how much you can afford.

 

[SrisonS]

I'd suggest getting the 18-135mm as a starter lens; then like others have said, see where it falls short for you (i.e. speed, range). You'll probably need something else for indoor sports though. But if anything, it's a great walkaround lens if you're out and don't want to swap lenses much. It covers a nice range to where you won't really feel like you're too close or too far from getting some good shots.

I'm also like you, in the sense that I jumped from an S3 IS to my first DSLR (the T1i). And if you used that great zoom for the S3 IS a lot, the 18-55mm will seem like a nightmare. That was my only real option at the time, so I was definitely missing that reach. But I jumped on the 18-135 as soon as it came out (a rush purchase before a cruise), and it's been my main lens since.

Good luck on your choices!!!!!

 

[WDWAtLast]

Oh wow...I'm so glad you asked this question. I just came here to ask the same thing.

Are you getting a kit lens, or just the body and then adding your own lenses?

I will be getting a kit lens - but the 18-135, not the standard 18-55 (it does add about $200 to the price)

Hey!

If you think you'll want more reach than the 135 (you probably will) then go for the 55-250 lens. It is generally accepted as a much better lens than the 75-300 (resist the temptation to sacrifice quality for that extra 50mm). But trust me, you will greatly prefer having that 18-135 over the 17-55. It will cover 95% of your shooting needs, whereas with the 17-55 you'd be swapping out lenses far more often.

You are right, the numbers on the lens are the maximum aperture that lens can accomplish. The smaller nthe number, the larger the aperture (lens opening). If there's a range of numbers (like 3.5-5.6) that's because it's a zoom. The smaller number (with the largest opening) is at the widest end of the lens (18 on the 18-135) and the larger number is at the telephoto end of the lens (135 on the 18-135 lens).

That "kit" will be a great starting point. Learn your way around your camera, and at some point you'll say "I wish I had a lens that........" Probably it will have something to do with performing better in low light. Those "faster" lenses that do better in low light tend to cost $$$$$, especially the fast zooms. There are some prime lenses (lenses with a fixed focal length) that are fast and relatively cheap, so that's where a lot of people start their lens collection. The best bargain in fast lenses is the Canon 50mm f/1.8 at around $100. But that's about it for the real bargains. I'm not a huge fan of the 50mm length (although others are) so I don't use mine much. I moved on quickly to the popular Sigma 30mm f/1.4 at around $400 (although I think it's more now).

Hope that all helps. Let us know if you have other questions. Good luck and have fun!

I am definitely getting the 18-135 lens - but am back and forth on getting the 55-250 zoom right now. I am "only" saving $150 with the rebate - but $150 is a lot, and if lens prices keep going up, then it could be much more than that in 6-8 months. But I also want to get the camera and really learn to shoot manual and be comfortable with it before I buy lenses that I may not even need/want!

I'm not a Canon shooter, but I do shoot sports. School gyms are notorious for poor lighting for cameras. You will need what is referred to as a fast lens. That is a lens that has a large aperture (low f number/stop). Now depending on your style that could be a prime lens (non-zoom) or a zoom. If you choose a zoom then the preference is a lens that has the large constant aperture throughout the range of the zoom. That is normally f2.8. Of course, that lens is large, heavy and more expensive than the consumer variable aperture lenses. That is what that 4-5.6 means. The largest available aperture is 4 at 70mm and gets smaller (less light) as you zoom to 300mm where the max aperture is 5.6. Its been my experience that the most used sports lens is the 70-200mm f2.8. The Canon version is pricey, but there are cheaper (?) third party versions like the Sigma and Tamron. You will get mixed comments on the use of third party lenses (I use them). There are some f4 zooms which are cheaper, but you will have to use higher ISO's to get the same exposure which will introduce noise. I don't know what the highest usable ISO is on the T2i.

Thanks for explaining the aperture on the lens - makes a lot more sense, now! I have looked at several lens that start at $1000 and go up - I hope to have one of those great, fast lens one day, but for now I am going to learn to use the camera and understand how it works. The cheapest thing I will ever buy is the camera - right? (just like buying a horse! )

 

[mom2rtk]

I don't think you'll regret going with the 18-135. I helped "advise" a friend in getting her first DSLR last year. I practically made her get the 18-200 that was available with the Sony she was getting. She has been very glad she didn't go with the 18-55 alternative.

As for the 55-250, I'd suggest getting it if you can swing it. There will be a few occasions you want that more reach. And this will be your cheapset means of doing it. I think you'll kick yourself later if you don't. $150 is pretty cheap for an extra lens, even if you put it back and just dig it out on special occasions.

BTW.....when you get a chance, take a look through Srisons' flickr photostream. He does amazing work with that 18-135.

 

[WDWAtLast]

unfortunately "great lens" cost $$ !
The T2i and 18-55IS is a good combination but shooting sports indoors in a low light environment usually requires a large aperture telephoto lens which can cost $500 - $2000 depending on the brand and features. On the other hand if you can get close enough I've shot indoor gymnastics with a 50mm 1.8 lens - only $80
The 55-250IS is good for outdoor daylight sports (but whatever you do don't get the 75-300 !)

I have looked at a few of those great len$e$ online - do the girls REALLY need to go to college? The girls are not quite to competitive level gymnastics yet - so I have a year or two to save for a nice, fast lens!

The T2i is a great starter DSLR. I purchased it last July and really enjoy using it and learning all the great stuff DSLR's do. Read and learn as much as you can.

My kit came with the camera, 18-55 and 55-250. Since then i have added a 50 1.8 and a Sigma UWA 10-20. There are times i really wish i had the 18-135 lens but i think that is more for being lazy then anything else. There are rarely situations where i cant just use my feet as the zoom. The 55-250 is a nice lens but i dont think i have used it more then 2 or 3 times (one of which was the safari at the animal kingdom).

I am looking into new lenses right now and the 2 i am looking at are the Sigma 17-70 2.8-4 and the Sigma 17-50 2.8. I am leaning toward the 17-50 because of the constant 2.8.

Glad to hear you are happy with the T2i - I can't wait to learn to use it properly! Still on the fence about adding the 55-250 mm lens, may just wait to see if I "need" it or not!

My advice, since you're just starting out with a DSLR don't spend a lot on lenses. You don't know what you're going to want to use or what you will need. And no one else can tell you for sure which lenses will fit you. After you've been shooting for a while you'll have a better idea of what you need.

Now, that said, run far far away from the Canon 75-300 f/4.0-5.6. It's old, it's slow, it's muddy, has wicked fringing and in my opinion Canon really needs to drop this lens from thier line. If you really feel like you need a telephoto zoom from the start that's inexpensive and a solid entry level lens I'd go with the 55-250.

Some people say hold out for high end glass. And there's nothing wrong with that. But sometimes we want the focal lengths covered and it's a long wait to save up a grand for a high end lens. You just have to balance what you need with how much you can afford.

Thanks for the advice! There are so many lenses available and especially for a beginner, it is easy to get overwhelmed in not knowing what you need and that there are many different qualities of lenses - even in a "brand" name.

I'd suggest getting the 18-135mm as a starter lens; then like others have said, see where it falls short for you (i.e. speed, range). You'll probably need something else for indoor sports though. But if anything, it's a great walkaround lens if you're out and don't want to swap lenses much. It covers a nice range to where you won't really feel like you're too close or too far from getting some good shots.

I'm also like you, in the sense that I jumped from an S3 IS to my first DSLR (the T1i). And if you used that great zoom for the S3 IS a lot, the 18-55mm will seem like a nightmare. That was my only real option at the time, so I was definitely missing that reach. But I jumped on the 18-135 as soon as it came out (a rush purchase before a cruise), and it's been my main lens since.

Good luck on your choices!!!!!

I am so glad you posted! I still LOVE my S3 IS - it has been a wonderful camera and I use the zoom all the time - this lets me know that I need to go ahead and go with the 18-135 lens kit! I may or may not add the 55-250 mm at this time - really thinking I need to learn to use the camera before I start adding lenses.

 

[WDWAtLast]

I don't think you'll regret going with the 18-135. I helped "advise" a friend in getting her first DSLR last year. I practically made her get the 18-200 that was available with the Sony she was getting. She has been very glad she didn't go with the 18-55 alternative.

As for the 55-250, I'd suggest getting it if you can swing it. There will be a few occasions you want that more reach. And this will be your cheapset means of doing it. I think you'll kick yourself later if you don't. $150 is pretty cheap for an extra lens, even if you put it back and just dig it out on special occasions.

BTW.....when you get a chance, take a look through Srisons' flickr photostream. He does amazing work with that 18-135.

This is what I keep thinking! And my S3 IS has a 12x zoom - so I have been "spoiled" by having such a great zoom without having to change lenses! I will have to check out the photo stream pics!

 

[blestmom]

I don't think you'll regret going with the 18-135. I helped "advise" a friend in getting her first DSLR last year. I practically made her get the 18-200 that was available with the Sony she was getting. She has been very glad she didn't go with the 18-55 alternative.

As for the 55-250, I'd suggest getting it if you can swing it. There will be a few occasions you want that more reach. And this will be your cheapset means of doing it. I think you'll kick yourself later if you don't. $150 is pretty cheap for an extra lens, even if you put it back and just dig it out on special occasions.

BTW.....when you get a chance, take a look through Srisons' flickr photostream. He does amazing work with that 18-135.

I agree that Srisons' photos are amazing! I was so surprised to learn he used the 18-135 for a lot of them. Quite the talented photographer.

 

[mom2rtk]

This is what I keep thinking! And my S3 IS has a 12x zoom - so I have been "spoiled" by having such a great zoom without having to change lenses! I will have to check out the photo stream pics!

Yeah, I thought Scott's point was right on. If you're used to all that zoom at your fingertips, you're really going to be more sensitive to the limited focal range of the 18-55 lens. Even the 135 might seem a little limiting, but honestly, I think you'll get used to that. Keep in mind too that with the quality of photos you are getting, you can crop them down on your computer later too.

My go-to long lens is a 50-150 2.8 lens. That's not much longer than your 135. Everything done with a zoom in my trip report was done with that lens (so max of 150mm).

 

[WDWAtLast]

So, another question - what do I "need" versus "it would be nice to have one day" with a dslr. Not talking lenses, but extra battery, lens cleaner - things a person who has only had a point and shoot wouldn't think of. Under "nice to have one day" - I have seen some amazing "made for women" camera bag$$$ - boy when I said the camera would be my cheapest purchase, I wasn't kidding!

 

[mom2rtk]

So, another question - what do I "need" versus "it would be nice to have one day" with a dslr. Not talking lenses, but extra battery, lens cleaner - things a person who has only had a point and shoot wouldn't think of. Under "nice to have one day" - I have seen some amazing "made for women" camera bag$$$ - boy when I said the camera would be my cheapest purchase, I wasn't kidding!

Definitely an extra battery. Maybe a nice fast memory card? I'd go at least class 6. Slower cards can "busy" up your camera when you're shooting in a quick series (gymnastics)?

So yes, an expensive fast lens would be tons of fun with gymnastics. But shoot with what you'll have in your kit and do the best you can. It will STILL be far better than anything you got with a point and shoot. Get close, keeping in mind the widest apertures are at the wider end of your lens. Don't be afraid to bump up to 3200 ISO in those challenging indoor settings. You might want to consider Lightroom (version 4 is now available) since it has a great noise reduction feature. I bought my LR from an eductional website a a great savings. After a while, you'll have a better feel for what you want to add in a lens. If your girls have a particularly special meet you can rent the expensive lenses. I rented one for my son's high school graduation and was happy with the results.

At some point you'll want to consider adding a tripod at if you want to shoot really low light scenery or fireworks.

You ever realize how much more fun it is spending other people's money?

 

[SrisonS]

One thing you might want to seriously consider is an external flash. You'll be amazed at how bouncing the flash makes an improvement over straight-on flash pictures.

Also, I have to mention one drawback to the 18-135mm. If you use a lens hood with it (which is also something I'd highly suggest), using the on-camera flash will cause a super harsh shadow at the bottom of some of your photos. And that's because the lens is on the longer side. But it's a nonissue with an external flash.

 

[WDWAtLast]

Definitely an extra battery. Maybe a nice fast memory card? I'd go at least class 6. Slower cards can "busy" up your camera when you're shooting in a quick series (gymnastics)?

So yes, an expensive fast lens would be tons of fun with gymnastics. But shoot with what you'll have in your kit and do the best you can. It will STILL be far better than anything you got with a point and shoot. Get close, keeping in mind the widest apertures are at the wider end of your lens. Don't be afraid to bump up to 3200 ISO in those challenging indoor settings. You might want to consider Lightroom (version 4 is now available) since it has a great noise reduction feature. I bought my LR from an eductional website a a great savings. After a while, you'll have a better feel for what you want to add in a lens. If your girls have a particularly special meet you can rent the expensive lenses. I rented one for my son's high school graduation and was happy with the results.

At some point you'll want to consider adding a tripod at if you want to shoot really low light scenery or fireworks.

You ever realize how much more fun it is spending other people's money?

Yes! I used to be a pretty good enabler for the newest scrapbook products! But I really could scrap for YEARS and not buy anything but adhesive and printing photos - so I don't really even keep up with the latest and greatest scrap products anymore.

Looking into Lightroom and Aperture (we switched to a Mac last year) And I have a tripod on my wish list - along with a fast lens!

One thing you might want to seriously consider is an external flash. You'll be amazed at how bouncing the flash makes an improvement over straight-on flash pictures.

Also, I have to mention one drawback to the 18-135mm. If you use a lens hood with it (which is also something I'd highly suggest), using the on-camera flash will cause a super harsh shadow at the bottom of some of your photos. And that's because the lens is on the longer side. But it's a nonissue with an external flash.

Thanks for the tip! I have the canon 430 EX II on my wish list - a list that keeps getting longer and longer. Your photos are amazing!

 

[reimero]

I also (somewhat) recently got a T2i and am on something of a budget (meaning I'm still using the 18-55 kit lens.) As such, I'm having to distinguish between "wants" and "needs". I've been doing a lot of picture-taking locally and making note of what I wish I had and why, then making that pitch to my wife: if we're going to spend the money, spend it on stuff that will get the use to justify it, you know?

Anyway, for practical, everyday shooting purposes, my "short list" is actually pretty short:
-Circular Polarizing Filter (I just ordered one from Hoya, the HD model. Or, as I call it, the "reimero-proof" model, since it's break-resistant, smudge-resistant and scratch-resistant.)
-Memory cards: If you plan to shoot in burst mode at all, don't goof around with class 4 or 6. Go straight to 10 (unless you're shooting M or S-quality JPEG.) If you're shooting movies, go straight to 10. It really does make a big difference, especially in RAW. Also, as a rule, I stick with Sandisk. I've got a Lexar that's pretty good, but I had to get a warranty replacement for it. Sandisk costs a little bit extra, but in my experience, the reliability is worth it. Also also, many people suggest getting more, smaller cards instead of one larger one, just in case a card goes bad. At least that way, not all your eggs are in one basket. Also also also, from what I've seen right now, the optimal price-per-gigabyte for class 10 cards is right around 16GB. Sometimes, you can catch a sale where 32GB is slightly better, but 16 seems to be the best value.
-Spare battery

In terms of lenses, as I mentioned before, I don't have any glass other than the kit lens. Occasionally, I've wished I had a better zoom. More than occasionally, I've wished I had a faster lens. The f1.8/50 lens is very, very high on my "to-get" list, and the 55-250 lens isn't far behind that. What I've heard about the f1.8/50 lens is that it is hands-down the best lens value for the dollar of all Canon EF (and EF-S) lenses. In fact, I'm hearing it's preferable to the more expensive f1.4 and f1.2 versions. The optics are outstanding (other than the usual issues when you open the aperture all the way) and are a substantial improvement over the kit lens. Not bad for $120.

 

[reimero]

One thing you might want to seriously consider is an external flash. You'll be amazed at how bouncing the flash makes an improvement over straight-on flash pictures.

Also, I have to mention one drawback to the 18-135mm. If you use a lens hood with it (which is also something I'd highly suggest), using the on-camera flash will cause a super harsh shadow at the bottom of some of your photos. And that's because the lens is on the longer side. But it's a nonissue with an external flash.

I've heard that lens hoods are becoming increasingly obsolete and, in fact, somewhat problematic, especially with crop sensors. Your mileage may vary, though.