Las Vegas & Beyond Part4

keith&carol

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We wake to see the sun shining warmly over the waters of Lake Powell.We want to explore but first we have to find a laundry. The Hotel doesn't have one but we finally track one down in the Trailer Park at the top of the hill and sit on a bench outside to bask in the sun while it does the necessary.
The Lake covers a huge area but we are at it's bottom end near the Dam which created it and it's an all day boat trip to see even part of it.There is a massive cluster of Houseboats moored, both private and for hire (expensive!) and also a Paddlesteamer and some Trip boats but the Lake level looks very low and the boat trip to Rainbow Bridge which we were planning has been postponed for the time being because of low water so we decide to visit the Glen Canyon Dam Visitor Centre to find out what's been going on.
This Dam is much smaller than the Hoover and was built as a back-up supply, controversially swamping much of the lovely red sandstone formations. Security here is tighter than anywhere else we've been for some reason. No bags of any kind even small handbags and fanny packs, cameras only if inspected, and we pass thru an airport type scanner which keeps going off until every bit of metal is identified and still have to be frisked! What on earth do they think we can do to it?
Inside there is a great view of the Lake and some interesting displays. A guide tells us that they are in their 3rd year of drought and the lake level is 95ft below normal. The longest drought lasted 30 years and they think that is when the Native Americans finally gave up on the area.
The small Town of Page nearby was created in the 50's when the Dam was built and just about survives still on passing Tourists. We find a tiny Pizza Hut for some lunch and a small Walmart for fresh supplies but most of the other shops etc are shut for some reason and it looks a bit like the scene in old Westerns when the prairie grass rolls down the only road and there is no sign of life. There is a loop road round the Town with at least 14 Churches all in a row. They must average about 10 members each judging by the size of the place.
We end the day with a stroll in the hot sun round the edge of the Lake and have dinner in the Hotel Bar to the sound of "live" Cowboy songs and a guitar.
Today we are heading East towards Monument Valley. The road looks good but we soon find it's made of concrete blocks like the pavements in Las Vegas and my poor hips take a bashing. Even Keith isn't too happy with it but this is the only way. The scenery is red desert, hilly and scattered with scrubby bushes and trees with the occasional sign of habitation and a few animals. We finally leave the bad road with a sharp left turn towards Kayenta where we'll stay tonight. Along the way we pick up a single track railway which ends at a coal mine, a bizarre sight in the middle of nowhere. The only homes are wooden huts built in the shape of a Teepee and very small. Just occasionally there is a more substantial building but still with a "hut" in the yard. The area gives an impression of real poverty but there are smart pick-up trucks outside and where there are animals they are in beautiful condition especially the horses. We pass thru Kayenta which is a very small Navaho Town and we are in the heart of the Reservation. A short drive further brings us to the Valley. There is a modest $5 entrance fee and a Visitor Centre with some facilities. Only cars are allowed to take the self-drive tour so everyone else has to pay to ride a jeep. The road is rough packed red dust but our 4 wheeler comes into its own now. The valley is bone dry with little or no vegetation and a 17 mile loop road winds round the buttes and mesas which all have names. The scenery is breathtaking and despite the slowly crawling cars the silence is amazing. In a couple of places there are Navaho craft stalls selling silver jewellery and pottery and at one rocky outcrop an old Indian Man stands with a horse. You can mount the horse for a "John Wayne" style photo for just $1 and Keith is pressed into doing this but the poor horse will never be the same again and went off for a long lunch as soon as he dismounted!!!!
We have brought a picnic and take several hours slowly winding round the rocks and taking lots of snaps. When we finally return to the V.C. there are 2 young Navaho Men playing tom toms and singing. The sound carries miles in the still air and makes the hair stand up on the back of your neck. Pity the poor Settlers when they first heard it.
We have to visit a car wash before checking into our Hotel . The red dust gets everywhere and our trainers are coated too. The Reservation does not allow alcohol so our Evening Meal is washed down by water for me and fizz for Keith but who cares-it was a wonderful day.
Tomorrow we move on to Bryce Canyon, another very long drive. See you then.
Carol
 
Wow:D What an amazing trip you're both having - some fantastic experiences to treasure for a lifetime:D
 

Wasn't sure I'd be too bothered about this part, Carol, but your descriptions , as usual, make it so atmospheric.

Dave
 














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