Rome
Arrived in Rome 3 days early and had booked a private transfer with
Stefano's RomeCabs (cannot recommend them enough!). Because I had a lot of Hilton points to burn, we stayed at the
Waldorf Rome Cavalieri. The downside of this hotel was that it was on a hill north of the Vatican, so you had to take their shuttle or a cab in and out of town. The upside was fantastic rooms (with amazing A/C) and as I am HHonors Gold, we received complimentary breakfast, and the Waldorf has an amazing breakfast. The rooms were also huge which was nice for the 3 of us. I would definitely stay at this hotel again, even with it being a bit outside the center. The first night we met my DW's sorority sister from college that lives outside of Naples and went to dinner at
Mama Eat Lab, the location in Travastere. DW is gluten free and Mama Eat has 2 kitchens, so they can prepare anything on the menu either regular or GF, and it was amazing. The next day, we had a tour booked for the Vatican, but we were so tired from jet lag that we slept through it. We met our friends and had lunch at
Hostaria Romana near the Trevi Fountain. It was amazing. They just kept bringing antipasto plates. It was nice b/c our friends spoke some Italian and knew what to order. We then walked around visiting the Trevi fountain, the Spanish Steps and doing some shopping. At this point, I had mentioned to them that we had missed our Vatican excursion and they said "you know, tomorrow is the last Sunday of the month, it will be free", so we decided to go the next morning before our afternoon tour. I am not sure that I've ever seen a longer line to get in anywhere, but it moved quickly. We visited the Vatican museums (but
@brentm77 , we missed St Peter's because service was going on. I will have to go back!) and afterwards, we headed to our pickup point for our Golf Cart Tour of Rome that we arranged through Viator.com as it was the only one we could get at late notice. We had lunch at the meeting point of the Cafe Peru and were off on a 4-hour Golf Cart Tour of Rome with our Guide, Iames. That was an incredible tour. You can go many places on a golf cart that regular vehicles will have more difficulty with. We went by the Piazza Navona, the first Jesuit Church, the Vittorio Emanuel, the Roman Forum, The Colosseo, the Circus Maximus, the Palazzo del Quirinale, the Basilica de Santa Sabina, and to the famous keyhole view of St Peters from the door of the Order of Malta. It was a really, really good tour. We hit some of these other sites because we had already been to Trevi and the Spanish Steps, so he customized it a bit for us. He also took us to some fantastic gelato places. For those of you that are GF, many gelato places in Rome have GF cones in addition to GF gelato. DW loved that! The next morning we got up and met our arranged Stefano's Rome Cabs transfer to Civitavecchia, which took maybe a bit over an hour.
Civitavecchia
What a mess the port of Civitavecchia is. We arrived a bit early and had to wait outside as Italy "would only allow so many people in the terminal due to COVID restrictions". OK, but by the end of the day, that didn't really seem to matter. So, we finally got in, dropped our bags, and did our testing with Prenetics, who was in charge of the testing at the port. They wrote our testing time on our wristbands they gave us, and my DD and I were tested at 12:03pm (DW didn't have to test because she had COVID a month prior to the trip). So we went upstairs and they said we would get an e-mail when our results were ready. This was problem number one. The wifi at the terminal really didn't work and as most were Americans, many didn't have local data service on their phones. Not only was no one being able to pull up their e-mails, it seemed like the Prenetics folks couldn't get them sent out, so after about 45 minutes, people would get in their line to ask if they had been cleared, only to get the answer "Give it another 5 minutes". Now, these were antigen tests, mind you. Should be 15 minutes. After an hour, still no results. I ask. Give it 5 minutes they say. After about another 15 minutes, I get my e-mail that I am cleared. Wait a bit to see about DD's. Nope, nothing. Back in line. "Give it another 5 minutes". Nope. After 2 hours in the terminal, I ask again. "Give it 5 minutes". I asked because she tested with me and mine was back an hour ago, what happened to hers. "It's fine, I'm sure it's on it's way, give it 5 minutes". So, after another 30 minutes or so, I asked to speak to a supervisor. Granted, she was very nice. I said, we tested at 12:03pm and it's now 2:45pm. Nothing on my DD's test (and from the crowds that were still in the terminal, they weren't getting theirs either - come to find out most were like us, 3 of 4 or 7 of 8 would get results, but one didn't come back, and unless your whole party was clear, no one was let on). She went over, pulled up a few screens on the computer and said, "well, we don't seem to have results for your Daughter". I will say, she then offered to take her down herself for a retest and said she would stay with her until results came back. 15 minutes later (which was 3 hours after we entered the terminal), we were finally cleared to board. Thankfully,
DCL extended the Cabanas lunch hours to 3:30pm, so we were at least finally able to get something to eat. When I was telling the staff that half the ship still probably wasn't on, they all said they wondered where everybody was, so I don't know if it was just our cruise in particular, if it was Prenetics, if it was the Civitavecchia port, or if it was a combination of all of it, but it was the most miserable embarkation for a cruise I've ever done. Fortunately, the cruise itself more than made up for this...
Katakolon
We did the tour through the ship of "Archaeological Museum of Olympia and Winery". The first part of the tour was just what it said. About an hour drive to the Museum at ancient Olympia. I had hoped that we would be able to visit the archeological site, but it was just the museum. We did, however, have a fantastic tour guide who explained everything in detail and seemed to know how to keep us out of the crowds (unlike in Athens). After about an hour at the museum, we headed back near the port of Katakolon to the
Mercouri Winery. When we booked this tour we were more excited for Olympia and just thought the winery would be a fun stop with an expected sales pitch. We were pleasantly surprised, however, that this little place had a history of its own, with former owners working for the White Star line, etc. We got to go into the basement (looking at the place when you get there, you'd never know it had a basement), but while moldy, it was a good 20 degrees cooler down there and much appreciated! After the quick tour of the winery, we went into a nice wooded area and they had tables set up for us to enjoy wine (Red and White, we all thought the White was better), meats, cheeses, bread, olives, and amazing Olive Oil. Yes, they produced olive oil as well, which in a way was even better than the wine. It was a nice afternoon, actually. After that, we headed back to the ship, but for those of us that wanted to, they let us disembark in Katakolon for a bit of shopping. We did that, then walked back to the ship.
Heraklion (Crete)
The next day, we ported in Heraklion in Crete. DW and DD were tired and decided they did not want to go on the excursion that we had planned that day, the "Discover Knossos Archaeological Site with Leisure Time" tour. I, however, was looking forward to this, so I went out on my own. I am so glad that I did. Once again, we had a pretty good tour guide (as an aside, from talking to people in different groups, it is a bit of a crapshoot as to if you get a good guide or not. We did the short drive to Knossos, and when there, our guide, if I read it correctly, took us on the tour route "in reverse". So, while crowded, we actually had a pretty good visit. Got about 2 hours out at Knossos and I would encourage anyone that visits Crete to definitely make the effort to get there. While yes, there are a few "recreations" there, for the most part, this is ancient and it feels like it. One of the best sites on the trip, actually. After that, we were dropped off in central Heraklion for about an hour and a half to have a look around, get something to eat, etc. When the tour guide let us go on our own for awhile, a couple in front of me asked her if there was a good "fast food" place. She said, yes, it's right around the corner. OK. I would never have found this place if she had not taken us there, but it was a small souvlaki stand on the back side of a shopping center called "Chop Chop". I had Chicken Souvlaki (no tomatoes - yuck!) in a pita with french fries. It was 3.3 euros. So cheap and man, so good! I also made the Starbucks here to get the "You are Here" mugs. They had not only the Greece mug, but they also had a few others, including Athens, so I got that one too to save some time the next day. We returned to the ship and as we were near the airport, we watched planes take off and land most of the rest of the afternoon.
Athens
We were very much looking forward to Athens, as how could you not look forward to Athens if you have a taste for history. We had the "Historic Athens Sightseeing, Acropolis and Plaka - Adults Only" booked for the day. Here is where our guide let us down. First of all, for whatever reason, when we left port, we didn't go straight to the Acropolis. No, they wanted to take us around Pireaus first. While I appreciated that, it wasn't what I wanted to see. When we got to the Acropolis, there were already lines at the tours, not only from our ship, but from Odyssey of the Seas and another European cruise that was there as well. That said, it didn't take us long to get to the top because DW had a torn meniscus in her knee and one of the guys at the Acropolis saw her hobbling in line and said, would you like to take the elevator up? OK, so had no idea that they had an elevator, but sure enough, he pulled us out of line, took us through what we found out later was the exit, put us on a golf cart and dropped us at a contraption that functioned as an elevator, but I've not seen anything like it. It went straight up the side of the Acropolis, definitely an experience in itself. At any rate, we got up there and finally found our group when they got up there about 30 minutes later. Our guide was worthless at the Acropolis. It was such chaos up there that it was much more enjoyable just to know that we had to meet back down at the exit in an hour and just to experience it ourselves. We saw a lot of people fall. The top of the acropolis is marble, and I don't mean marble they've put down. It's the real deal. If you got off the concrete pathways and got on the actual marble top, it was extremely slippery. At any rate, we had a good visit up there and met our group down at the bottom (I went back down through the main entrance and let DW and DD go back down the "elevator" as I wasn't brave enough to try that again

Then things got interesting. Our guide couldn't find our bus and come to find out it is because the traffic in Athens was pretty much gridlock. Don't know that I've really seen anything like it. The bus finally shows up and as we start to go, the guide stops the bus and gets off to get "a couple of people that are looking for the tour". After about 30 minutes, she comes back on and says "Sorry, they were from the Odyssey, not your cruise". Now, don't know about you, but I've been on a number of DCL tours and it's not hard to tell the difference between the DCL numbered stickers and what RCCL was using, but this lady couldn't seem to figure it out.
Then we went on an Odyssey of our own. We sat in traffic for what seemed like an hour then she decides to have the bus driver give us a "tour" of the city. Well, the first time around that was OK, but by the 3rd time we passed the French Embassy, we were all asking when we were going to get to get out in Athens. So, she takes us over by Hadrian's Arch, drops us off and says we now have our free time in the Plaka, which is up this street (she pointed up a street). Then she said, and I quote, "Meet back here in 15 minutes". OK, what is the point if you are stopping for 15 minutes? We decided that we wanted to explore the Plaka, so we just told the guide that we'd find a cab back to the ship. I think at least half of our tour did this. It was crazy. So, we did walk through the Plaka, which was nice and ended up somewhere near Monastariki Square, where we got an expensive cab back to the ship. Now that we've been to Athens, and realizing just how close the city is to Pireaus, I think that next time we will just take either the Hop On Hop Off bus, or better yet, just take the Metro into town and avoid traffic all together...
Santorini
We had the "Oia, Winery, Fira Town, and Cable Car" tour booked in Santorini. As mentioned before, if you have a DCL excursion, there is a HUGE benefit of tendering to the Ferry port instead of over to the Cable Car. We boarded our bus and won the guide lottery jackpot with our guide "Dora". She later told us that she had only been doing tours for a little over a month, but ended up being our best tour guide. Our bus took us over to Oia first thing in the morning, which included a very nice ride through the "backcountry" of Santorini that we actually liked just as much, if not more than the cliffside towns. Took us about 20 minutes to decide that Santorini was a place that we were going to have to come back to stay. Absolutely as beautiful as you would think.
We got to Oia and did a short tour to the town square, then she gave us a bit over an hour on our own to explore. She encouraged us to go to the castle (which we didn't make - shopping!) and some other sites (like the main church). Oia is beautiful. We also got lucky because at that point there was only our ship and a smaller NCL ship (Star, maybe?) and it was fun exploring all the nooks and crannies of Oia. Definitely many, many photogenic spots here. On the way back to the bus, there was another Souvlaki stand, so I got Souvlaki again

We then headed back towards the Ferry port to the cliffside Santo Winery. Again, thought this would be a hard sell type place, but this place was beautiful, the wine, cheese, and olives were unlimited and views were amazing. We were there about an hour, then headed to Fira for a short tour. We saw from the Winery that the NCL Getaway was pulling in (it was due in at 1pm). Well, by the time we got up to the cable car area in Fira, it was a mass of humanity as the 4000-5000 people from the Getaway were all coming up the cable car. We decided to head back down, and at that point, the cable car was about a 30 minute wait.
Mykonos
The next day was a Sunday and we docked in Mykonos. We didn't have an excursion planned here and I am so glad that we didn't. We slept in a bit, then got off and there was a free shuttle from the port into Mykonos town. We took the bus in, actually, with a number of the crew, who were all excited to get to go into Mykonos. When we got into town, it didn't disappoint. Oh my word. I cannot describe how beautiful Mykonos town was to walk around. Yes, there are a lot of high end shops there to lighten your wallet, but it really is one of the most picturesque places I think I've ever been in my life. It didn't matter where you were, when you turned a corner, the scenery was just amazing. This is exactly what I had in my mind as to what the Greek Isles would be. I did take a long, arduous hike up a hill to the Starbucks to get the Mykonos mug, then headed back down to meet DW and DD. They had a great time shopping. I had a great time just taking in the town. Just amazing. Then we went over to see the windmills and wander a bit through little Venice. I will also say that it really helped on this day that we were the only ship in port, so it seemed like we had the place to ourselves. I'd go back tomorrow. I think of all the cruise ports I've ever been to, Mykonos is hands down my favorite port ever. We will definitely be visiting here again!
Naples
Well, originally, we were going to meet our friends and go to Pompeii, but they let us know a couple days earlier that their son had tested positive for COVID, so they weren't going to meet us (FYI, we never got sick, so I think he got exposed after they met us in Rome). By this point, we were all so tired that we just decided to walk around town. Mistake. I can't stress enough how hot and miserable our day in Naples was. Mix 98 degrees Fahrenheit with 80 percent humidity with VOG (yep, volcanic fog, the sulfur from Vesuvius mixes with the air as it is still active) and you have a formula for about the most uncomfortable, nasty air you could ever want. That said, we did make it to the Galleria and the main shopping street and had lunch at Zero Zero Grano, another GF restaurant that was really good. By that point, after an hour or so, we had had it and went back to the ship. I wish that it wouldn't have been our last day or we would have taken a ferry to Capri or Sorrento, but it was what it was. We'll get back there...
Flight home
After a miserable time in coach on the flight over, we upgraded our flight home to Delta Comfort +. Best decision of the trip...
Disney Magic
I thought that I ought to take a minute to talk about the ship. We've done the Magic a number of times, including last October, just after the startup. However, in the meantime, we had been on ships like Oasis OTS, Virgin's Scarlet Lady, the Carnival Mardi Gras, and Independence OTS and stepping on the Magic, it was like, wow, this is a good bit smaller, I hope there will be stuff to do. Again, that was just my initial reaction. By the end of the cruise, however, I found myself saying that I think that the Magic just may be my favorite cruise ship. I don't know, it's something about those classic ships. Everything just "feels" right. And there was plenty to do. Always something going on in the D Lounge, or Fathoms, or O'Gill's, and the movie theater was great as always. We thought that the food had taken a definite step in the right direction as well. All our food on the cruise was very good. Service, as always on the Magic, was excellent. Just love this ship. I will say that if I had one complaint it was that DCL didn't have any cruise specific merchandise. No Greek Isles or Mediterranean T-shirt, etc. Add to that the fact that we had a note that Italy had determined that since our cruise did not leave the EU, every purchase was subject to a 22% VAT, I hardly ever saw anyone in the gift shops. It was kind of weird. All in all, a fabulous trip. Probably my favorite cruise ever up there with our DVC Member Cruise to Alaska (that was as much about the fact it was a Member Cruise as the itinerary) and our Norway cruise and my first cruise ever on Dawn Princess (I miss that ship!)...