Subscribing!!!! I loved your last trip report and can't wait to read this one. Of course - reading yours scares me from ever writing one because I don't think I could ever be as witty and funny as you are - and English is my first language!!!!!!!! Now maybe if I wrote in french everyone would laugh (well the people who speak french would laugh because my high school french is limited to my telling you my name and referring to my "privates" as chat ....... think about it - you'll get it eventually)