Help please

[barrie]

Help - I have a question. Why is it that my skies are always blown out? Here's an example.



You can tell by the reflection in the water that the sky was actually quite blue. How do I avoid this in the future? I don't recall for sure, but I think I took this on automatic. I have a Nikon D50. I don't think I've had this problem with my other cameras. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Master Mason]

Barrie,

Take a look here
http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1501266

 

[ukcatfan]

It looks like the entire image is a little overexposed. You can see some more blown out spots on the boat and architecture. Try setting your exposure on the sky and then recomposing to the correct composition. Using exposure lock or manual mode is best for this, so you do not also have to lock the focus.

For a more complicated (but better) solution, you can use a graduated ND filter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graduated_ND_filter

Kevin

 

[tinksdad]

Help - I have a question. Why is it that my skies are always blown out? Here's an example.



You can tell by the reflection in the water that the sky was actually quite blue. How do I avoid this in the future? I don't recall for sure, but I think I took this on automatic. I have a Nikon D50. I don't think I've had this problem with my other cameras. What am I doing wrong?

I think I would have metered off the statuary at the middle/left of the frame. That looks like about the middle ground for the dynamic range in this shot. A circular polarizer would have help a bit as well.

ucatfan's suggestion of the graduated ND filter is a great one!! But then again, in the parks that's just more equipment to carry. I recently got a Cokin P filter holder with some GND filters and it's SOO much better than the screw on one I bought a year or so ago. A LOT more ability to change and modify the filter to get that shot you want!! Highly recommended for those high dynamic range shots!!

Heck, just go back and shoot it again!!!!

 

[barrie]

Heck, just go back and shoot it again!!!!

Best advice yet!

Seriously, thanks for the info. I had missed that other thread. I did get a circular polarizer a couple of weeks ago and that did help a lot.

I hate to sound dense but I have read lots of things where it says to "meter off" on one thing or another but I'm not getting how that is done. I understand what it is but it seems like it is something the camera does on it's own. On my camera I have the choice of 3 settings: Matrix (default), Center-weighted and Spot. Beyond choosing one of those settings, what else do I need to do? Are there specific steps to "metering off"?

 

[TomPokNY]

Hi Barrie,

This recent thread in the photography-on-the.net forums might help explain some what is going on, lots of good discussion and examples: Understanding your camera's built-in metering system .

(Sorry, I just noticed that you have to register and log in to see the example photos.)

 

[ukcatfan]

Best advice yet!

Seriously, thanks for the info. I had missed that other thread. I did get a circular polarizer a couple of weeks ago and that did help a lot.

I hate to sound dense but I have read lots of things where it says to "meter off" on one thing or another but I'm not getting how that is done. I understand what it is but it seems like it is something the camera does on it's own. On my camera I have the choice of 3 settings: Matrix (default), Center-weighted and Spot. Beyond choosing one of those settings, what else do I need to do? Are there specific steps to "metering off"?

What metering mode you are in does make a difference, and what you do in each mode will differ. In theory, matrix will evaluate everything and properly set the exposure. It works well most of the time, but I think situations like this confuse it. I personally prefer center for most situations, but would probably go with spot for that one. You then point the center spot of the frame to the sky and press your exposure lock button. Then frame your shot how you want it and shoot. You can also use manual exposure mode to set the exposure first.

Understanding Exposure has a great section on what he calls the Sky Brothers and Mr. Green Jeans.

Kevin

 

[tinksdad]

Best advice yet!

Seriously, thanks for the info. I had missed that other thread. I did get a circular polarizer a couple of weeks ago and that did help a lot.

I hate to sound dense but I have read lots of things where it says to "meter off" on one thing or another but I'm not getting how that is done. I understand what it is but it seems like it is something the camera does on it's own. On my camera I have the choice of 3 settings: Matrix (default), Center-weighted and Spot. Beyond choosing one of those settings, what else do I need to do? Are there specific steps to "metering off"?

Thought you'd like that!!

If you set the metering on spot and then use the multi-selector to position the metering bracket [ ] to the spot you want to meter on, set the AE-L button or depress the shutter release halfway and then recompose the shot and take the shot.

If you're using matrix the camera will try to balance the levels within the entire frame. Center weighted meters the entire frame but assigns greatest weight to the center.
Spot is just that, a spot!!

Try several shots outside in an area of shadows and highlights using all three modes and see what the shots look like to you. In manual mode, or Aperture priority meter off different points of the scene and you can tell from the change what the camera is "seeing". Does that make sense?

And that was the Kevin squared answer........

 

[barrie]

Yes, this is very helpful - thanks so much! One more question though. If I point to the sky and press the shutter halfway down, won't that set my focus on the sky?

If I'm understanding right, I should point to the sky (for example), then press the AE-L (which of course, I should set to just lock on exposure, not exposure and focus both), then recompose the photo and use the shutter release to lock the focus before snapping the shot. Do I have that right?

 

[ukcatfan]

And that was the Kevin squared answer........

Yes, this is very helpful - thanks so much! One more question though. If I point to the sky and press the shutter halfway down, won't that set my focus on the sky?

If I'm understanding right, I should point to the sky (for example), then press the AE-L (which of course, I should set to just lock on exposure, not exposure and focus both), then recompose the photo and use the shutter release to lock the focus before snapping the shot. Do I have that right?

That sounds right to me.

Kevin

 

[barrie]

Cool! You all are great.

Thanks so much for your help.

 

[tinksdad]

Yes, this is very helpful - thanks so much! One more question though. If I point to the sky and press the shutter halfway down, won't that set my focus on the sky?

If I'm understanding right, I should point to the sky (for example), then press the AE-L (which of course, I should set to just lock on exposure, not exposure and focus both), then recompose the photo and use the shutter release to lock the focus before snapping the shot. Do I have that right?

Correct!! If your sky is much different focal length from you main subject (like your example pic) then you the AE-L button and then shutter release for the shot.

 

[Furgus]

Correct!! If your sky is much different focal length from you main subject (like your example pic) then you the AE-L button and then shutter release for the shot.

Or you can just get the reading then switch to manual mode, that is usually what I do.

BTW I know someone has mentioned it before, and I am sure you have read it, but re-read Understanding Exposure. The section about the sky brothers is great. I have had my D50 for a little over a year now, and I am re-reading this whole book, as now I am not as lost as I was the first time I read it

 

[tinksdad]

Or you can just get the reading then switch to manual mode, that is usually what I do.

BTW I know someone has mentioned it before, and I am sure you have read it, but re-read Understanding Exposure. The section about the sky brothers is great. I have had my D50 for a little over a year now, and I am re-reading this whole book, as now I am not as lost as I was the first time I read it

Why do you switch? All of it can be done in manual? Just curious......

 

[Furgus]

Why do you switch? All of it can be done in manual? Just curious......

Cause the AE button on the D50 placement sucks
That is the only reason.

 

[handicap18]

Barrie, what are your settings for this pic, especially the f/stop?

 

[barrie]

f/4

You have a D50 too - do you find this happening on your auto setting?

 

[tinksdad]

Cause the AE button on the D50 placement sucks
That is the only reason.

You're right about that!! The D200 is better ergonomic (at least for my hands) My wife has the D50 and I got it out to check the settings prior to making my comments and found the same thing........

 

[handicap18]

f/4

You have a D50 too - do you find this happening on your auto setting?

I don't know how accurate this is, but I've noticed on wider apertures I get more of a blown out sky. If I use a narrow aperture like f/11 and smaller I normally don't get the blown out sky. I say normally. Not every time. Also the location of the sun will make a difference. Now that I look through more of my pictures, where the sun is in relation to where you are and your subject is probably makes more of a difference.

Like I said, I don't know how accurate I am with this one. I haven't tested it out. Something to think about. Take another trip down to Disney and take the same picture at 4 or 5 different times of day and each time at different apertures like f/4, f/8, f/16 & f/22. Report back here your findings.


As for the location of the AE/AF lock button, I too agree that it isn't in the best of spots on the D50. It would be better about an inch down. Its to high up and to close to the viewfinder. I probably would use it more if it were located better. Sometimes I'll do what Furgus does and meter in one mode then switch to manual and put in the settings myself. I usually use the AE/AF lock button for AF, only occassionally for AE.

 

[Groucho]

The problem with metering off the sky is that the sky is blown out for a reason - it's too bright. If you meter off the sky, it may be nice and blue, while the rest of your photo is very dark and gloomy-looking.

I've found that Lightroom can help to a point (and I think Photoshop can do the same, with the latest Camera Raw), you can bring the exposure down to make sure that it did properly gather some color there, then bring up the fill light to brighten up the dark sections. You may need to increase the blacks also to keep things from looking too pale, and bump up the vibrance a bit.

Best solutions are probably a CP or doing an HDR shot after the fact. Or, do a manual HDR by processing the file once very dark and pulling the blue sky from that, and another with the ground and other stuff exposed properly, and open both in Photoshop. Put the dark one in the background, bright one in the foreground, and erase away the sky from the bright one. Or use cutout filters to do the same.