Help Please - Need a new Computer

Sometimes the sale price at places like Staples/BestBuy is competitive. I suspect some of the labor day sales will be reasonable.

Some people like shopping in a B&M store.

You just have to avoid the hard sell for service contracts and overpriced accessories.

Be very careful with service contracts. Some (many? most?) salesmen will insist you'll be covered for accidental coverage as long as you claim the unit wasn't dropped. Assume the unit will be checked and no matter what you claim damage which resulted from accidents will only be covered if you paid $$$ for a service contract which specifically covers accidental damage.
Competitive == Loss Leader.

B&M stores make nearly nothing on the sale of a computer. Some of the more reprehensible will NOT sell you JUST a computer. One of Best Buy's favorite tactics is to try to sell you their "Geek Squad Optimization" of a computer. Catch is, they'll conveniently "be completely out" of un-'optimized' computers, and will try to force you to pay for one of the 'optimized' computers. I've even heard tales of Office Max REFUSING to sell you "just" a computer.

Beware!!
 
I assumed that in order to get the number keypad, that I needed a 17" monitor. If that is not the case then I will look into getting a 15" laptop and a larger monitor for home.

A wireless keyboard and mouse combination cost under $50. I don't know if you'd want to type on the laptop keyboard 100% of the time. It can't be positioned at the ideal angle, plus the possibility of getting damaged exists. Keep it safe and out of the way, use a wireless keyboard (or wired one, they cost $8). The receiver for wireless keyboards and mice are miniature, you can leave it plugged in all the time even when traveling.
 
I assumed that in order to get the number keypad, that I needed a 17" monitor. If that is not the case then I will look into getting a 15" laptop and a larger monitor for home.

Actually as I was reading some of the comments I think that was something some people missed... if you absolutely positively must have a numeric keypad on the keyboard then you will have to get a 17inch laptop. I've never seen a 15 inch or smaller with a standalone numeric keypad.

If your current computer isn't a laptop, then I wonder why you want to switch. A 17 inch laptop isn't really that portable. I've a 15 inch and it is pretty darned heavy to lug around.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834127479

above is a Sony that will do all you need for 499.... I know people are pushing the i3 and i5 intels, but the fact is that most people don't run software that requires that heavy duty processing. The only thing that really tends to hit a laptop user is the weak graphics cards that come in them if you decide to play graphic intensive games.

I've used Newegg for lots of purchases from computers to cameras and they are legit to use and when something arrived DOA they were easy to deal with on the return. I would suggest that if you go to a big box store to find the one you like, that you still go online and see if Newegg has it, they generally do and it will usually save you some money.
 
My one year old Dell laptop is a 15" and has a built in numeric key pad. So, they do exist! It has the i3 and Win7Pro. It was $400-500 at Best Buy.
 

My one year old Dell laptop is a 15" and has a built in numeric key pad. So, they do exist! It has the i3 and Win7Pro. It was $400-500 at Best Buy.

You are correct, I just checked the Dell site...

http://www.dell.com/us/p/inspiron-15r-combo-mod/pd?oc=fndar07&model_id=inspiron-15r-combo-mod

for a 15 inch with the numeric keypad for under 500....

I am curious, are the keys standard sized? when I look at my 15 inch laptop I'm not sure how they could fit a numeric keypad on it... it doesn't seem to have much room on the sides of the existing keys.
 
The "pros" here may not like this computer, but it has been great for me. It only has a 15.6 inch screen, but that is plenty big for me. Much bigger and it is really hard to find a good case for one. Walmart has a bundle now for $1 more than just the laptop. I liked that this one had Microsoft Office Starter, which so far has had all the features I need for documents, spreadsheets, etc. The bundle is $299.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Student-Home-Office-Laptop-Bundle-with-Case-4GB-USB-Flash-Drive-and-HP-Multi-Function-Printer/10966053

I would suggest you get a Square Trade warranty including accidental damage insurance. You can always find a code, and you can get 3 years for around $60-$70. My son is rough on laptops and they have replaced two for us with a simple claim form. Well worth the money.

Oh, and you can probably get a reformatting disk to "fix" your desktop for $20-$30. A disk may have even come with the computer if you still have it. I have a 9 year old desktop I still use in a pinch. Internet works fine and it's a great "back-up".
 
Competitive == Loss Leader.

B&M stores make nearly nothing on the sale of a computer. Some of the more reprehensible will NOT sell you JUST a computer. One of Best Buy's favorite tactics is to try to sell you their "Geek Squad Optimization" of a computer. Catch is, they'll conveniently "be completely out" of un-'optimized' computers, and will try to force you to pay for one of the 'optimized' computers. I've even heard tales of Office Max REFUSING to sell you "just" a computer.

Beware!!

B&M stores make almost nothing on many advertised "loss leaders". TV sets. Blu-Ray players. Many of the supermarket "weekly specials"......

Ask for a manager. Ask why you can't buy the advertized merchandise at the advertized price. Mention "bait and switch". Suggest you'll be ordering online with an in store pickup.

You want to be mean and "play a game". Buy the extended warranty, expensive cables etc. Go to the service desk before you leave the store and return the expensive cables and cancel the service contract.
 
The "pros" here may not like this computer, but it has been great for me. It only has a 15.6 inch screen, but that is plenty big for me. Much bigger and it is really hard to find a good case for one. Walmart has a bundle now for $1 more than just the laptop. I liked that this one had Microsoft Office Starter, which so far has had all the features I need for documents, spreadsheets, etc. The bundle is $299.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Student-Home-Office-Laptop-Bundle-with-Case-4GB-USB-Flash-Drive-and-HP-Multi-Function-Printer/10966053

I would suggest you get a Square Trade warranty including accidental damage insurance. You can always find a code, and you can get 3 years for around $60-$70. My son is rough on laptops and they have replaced two for us with a simple claim form. Well worth the money.

Oh, and you can probably get a reformatting disk to "fix" your desktop for $20-$30. A disk may have even come with the computer if you still have it. I have a 9 year old desktop I still use in a pinch. Internet works fine and it's a great "back-up".


Where would I be able to get a reformating disk? We checked though our computer file and don't seem to have it. we hope to fix it, we need to get all our files from it and like you say we can keep it as a backup.
 
It's easy to decline the extended warranty, the geek squad, and whatever else BS they want to throw out at you.

A restore disc can be created from any computer at any time, there's no need to spend $30 for some one else to do it. Each one is a bit different, depending on brand, but just type in "restore" in the start menu, it'll show up.

If you like to use a lot of older PC software, there is a thing called "virtual PC" which allows Windows 7 to run in Windows XP or below format.

On the HP laptop I'm using now, there's actually a numeric pad on the keys. It sorta looks like a qwerty keypad for most phones. You hit a button (works like caps lock) that lets you use those specific keys like a numeric pad. The only thing it's missing is the raised dot on the 5.

As for processors, there's also the AMD line, which is popular in the HP line of laptops. Which every one has their opinion of processors, but AMD does run a bit cooler than an Intel.

This is a 14" screen, and it's still light enough lug around. The 17" (I love the num pad on it too) is really darn heavy. You also have to remember that there is a shelf life for a lithium battery, which starts ticking down the day it is made. With a larger screen, it requires more battery power, and less time off the charger. So if you do like to move it from place to place, you'll have a longer time. As well, the computer runs a lot cooler off the charger, making it easier to leave on a lap.
 
Where would I be able to get a reformating disk? We checked though our computer file and don't seem to have it. we hope to fix it, we need to get all our files from it and like you say we can keep it as a backup.

You can take out the hard drive (on the bottom of the laptop), and place it into an enclosure to transfer the files from one computer to the other.

Then you can reformat the hard drive, and start from scratch. You'll place the OS disc into the computer, and then boot it up. The computer will read from the disc and erase everything from the hard drive, then install the OS.
 
Thanks again for all the great advise.

One question so far. Regarding the operating system. I currently run windows xp, and I do need to use a few old software products. So in order for those to work I will need to buy "Windows 7 Professional"?

If you open up your Private Messages, I can send you the information you're looking for on how to run a virtual PC to run XP programs on Windows 7. There's no difference between Home and Professional Editions, when a software program was not designed to run on 7, but on XP.


Or you can send me an email (there's a link if you click on my screen name).
 
If you open up your Private Messages, I can send you the information you're looking for on how to run a virtual PC to run XP programs on Windows 7. There's no difference between Home and Professional Editions, when a software program was not designed to run on 7, but on XP.

I think what the poster meant was using Windows Pro for the built in XP mode. You could buy Home Premium, install Virtual PC, and obtain a new license for XP and install that... or just use Windows Pro. Pro comes with an XP install ready to go, which is why it is intended for business users who want to idiot proof running your old applications.

9 out of 10 times a program designed for XP will run on 7 by selecting Compatibility Mode as XP SP3.
 
Well Windows 7 Pro is a significant price increase, around a few hundred more, than doing a virtual PC with XP. We sell Microsoft stuff on Ebay, and average about $60 for Home, and a $100 for Pro.

It is one way to save on the budget.
 
You can take out the hard drive (on the bottom of the laptop), and place it into an enclosure to transfer the files from one computer to the other.

Then you can reformat the hard drive, and start from scratch. You'll place the OS disc into the computer, and then boot it up. The computer will read from the disc and erase everything from the hard drive, then install the OS.

This is what I have to transfer files. It comes in really handy when a computer fails(we seem to have a lot of that around here) I can't believe it's so cheap! I paid $30 a few years ago for this exact one.

http://www.amazon.com/USB-2-0-SATA-Converter-Cable/dp/B0018MCGVU

I think the OP has a desktop, which makes it a little harder to get the hard drive out. OP you may need to google--Opening a Dell Desktop computer or something like that if you need to get your info off. Or you can take it to a computer geek and they can do it for you AND reformat it. I think I paid $100 for that last time I had to go that route. If you can do it yourself, and you have a copy of the OS, you can reboot it. If you don't have a copy of the OS, call the manufacturer or search the internet for a reformat disc for your exact model.
 
If you have a microcenter near you, you should go there to buy it. There are 2 in your state. They usually have knoweldagble people, losts of various models for you to comapre all the laptops, you don't get the geek squad upsells, and they offer free in store support for everything they sell.
 
9 out of 10 times a program designed for XP will run on 7 by selecting Compatibility Mode as XP SP3.

This. There are not many mainstream software packages that did run under XP, but absolutely won't under Win7.

At risk of being pedantic, be careful about usage of terms like "XP Compatibility Mode", "Virtual PC", etc. the Virtual machine XP mode available in Win7 pro shouldn't be confused with running Virtual PC on any version, installing your own XP license. To be frank, though, the fact that the OP is coming here to ask about what kind of computer to get isn't suggestive of one who is going to have any desire to bother with either of the above.
 
Well Windows 7 Pro is a significant price increase, around a few hundred more, than doing a virtual PC with XP. We sell Microsoft stuff on Ebay, and average about $60 for Home, and a $100 for Pro.

It is one way to save on the budget.

This seems like it would only be a savings if OP were buying a system that doesn't include an OEM license for the OS, which seems at best unlikely.
 
This seems like it would only be a savings if OP were buying a system that doesn't include an OEM license for the OS, which seems at best unlikely.

Well they'll get a Windows 7 Home key with pretty much any computer, but there will be a significant price increase if they go to Windows 7 Pro.

The other option is to do a dual install of XP and 7, then boot into the mode that they want to. In either option, a copy of XP with the CD key will be needed. Although they could use the existing key on their current computer if they uninstall it. If you have an XP disc (retail version), you can call Microsoft up and get a new key for the disc for about $10-$15. Microsoft will verify the disc by the encryption code on the center ring.

There's a ton of options available for using XP, that won't cost $200-$400 more than the standard Home Edition of Windows 7. This is the budget board after all...
 
Well you have a good start. Since you want a laptop, it will be a bit easier on you to buy, as you won't have to pick every single part individually by brand/capabilities/etc. as you would if you were custom building a desktop.

So what I would suggest first is going to some of the big name manufacturer's websites and looking at their 17" models with num pads. If the num pad is a required feature you MAY find yourself limited to HP notebooks as I don't recall seeing a Dell machine with one included. But anyway, do reconnaissance work on Dell, HP, maybe Lenovo. Then go to your big box electronics store of choice and look up what you can get for $700-800 with your specs there. Most likely the specs are going to be similar, but there will probably be a bit of variation from machine to machine and if you buy one online, depending on the price you might be able to afford to upgrade parts that are important to you.

Now just going over the parts you listed. You want a good idea of what each of these does and what you think is more important than other things when picking and choosing between the different machines:

Processor - How much power your computer has. Currently most computers are running the Intel line of i3, i5, and i7. That is in order from least to most powerful. I do extensive gaming and engineering work on my laptop (A Dell XPS system) and an i5 is more than enough for me. The i7 is known to run very very hot, which can be a problem for laptops. You won't be able to use it in your lap easily and you'd need to buy an external fan to keep your laptop cool. I'm not sure how much high powered stuff you plan on using, but for internet/small business i3 would probably be fine, maybe an i5 if you find a good deal or want to be on the safe side.

Operating System - Windows 7 is fine and 8 isn't out yet anyway. It's not the resource hog that Vista was, though I am sentimental and prefer XP a little. The only advice I have here concerns if you want to use your old software on a new machine. Windows 7 is 64 bit, which basically means it works completely different from the old 32 bit (Windows XP, Windows 98, etc.) systems. If you have old software that you want to still be able to use, though nothing is guaranteed (Google "program name" windows 7 to see how other people are faring with it) then you should splurge for an upgrade to Windows 7 Professional, as it has an XP mode to handle the things the Home edition can't. Usually an operating system upgrade is an option when making your laptop online. If you're buying off the shelf make sure you know what system is coming with it, and inquire if you can upgrade if you find an in-store you're in love with.

Memory - RAM is a measure of how much "stuff" your computer can do at the same time. As a gamer/engineer I usually buy as much as humanly possible. If you don't think you'll be doing too much at a time you can go with a lower number. 4 GB might be good. 2 GB is kind of on the low end right now. Someone who is a more casual user could maybe give more input on this topic.

Hard Drive - Storage is cheap. Most laptops will come with at least 250 GB and I've never even filled up that much. Unless you're planning on illegally downloading all of Hollywood space will likely not be an issue. Just make sure it has a few hundred and don't worry. You can always make backups. BTW you'll see some laptops with "solid state" harddrives. These are smaller harddrives which are supposed to not break as easily. Don't worry about those, the technology is new and in my opinion not worth the premium paid just yet. Just back up your stuff periodically.

Optical Drive - If you are going to be burning a lot of stuff to CD (I'm guessing due to business, etc.) or playing/ripping a lot of music or doing anything with a CD, make sure your laptop has an optical drive built in. A lot of machines are trying to be ultraportable nowadays and manufacturers are leaving out internal optical drives. Which means you have to buy an external and hook it up via USB if you need to use a CD. Which can be really irritating.

Graphics - If you want to do any gaming or graphic work or movie editing at all, make sure the system has what is called "discrete graphics." "Integrated graphics" means the computer renders graphics off of the processor. "Discrete graphics" means it has a separate little chip that works solely for graphics, so you can get better results and more power. If you aren't gaming and just want movie editing or something, I would just suggest any system with discrete graphics. If you want to game, pick up a box in the store and get an idea of a game's recommended system requirements to see about how many GB (I think 2 at the moment but it's been a while since I've bought a machine) people are designing for nowadays.


I hope all that helped and I didn't overwhelm you! If you have any questions just ask. Good luck! :thumbsup2


I just wanted to say thanks again for the great info you provided. I ordered a laptop and have been using it for the last week.

I bought a HP with 5i processor, 6GB ram & 640gb Hard drive (both free upgrades) the windows 7 professional version = total came to $785 right in my budget.

I really do appreciate your help, it made it easy to decide how to spend my money.
 
There are two main factors to laptop price. The processor and screen size. You mentioned 17”, which just happens to be the most expensive option. Are you sure you want it that big? You could knock $200 off the price by going with a 14 or 15” screen, making it much more portable and that savings would more than pay for adding a huge external 23 or 24” monitor.

There are websites such as gotapex.com that watch for online sales, coupon codes, etc. and point out when great deals line up. The problem is the coupons are limited to 1000 orders usually, and the sales are short. You have to check the site daily and be prepared to buy that day. Costco and other warehouse stores actually have great deals on computers, not just laptops. Take this cheat sheet with you and pick out the one you like the best.

Here are the basics. This assumes you do not want to purchase additional memory online and install it yourself, which for a desktop can bring huge savings but not so much for laptops.

Processor:
- Core i5 or i7 (do not concern yourself with speed) will be more than enough power. Best option. The only special caveat is a Core i5 ending with “T” is less desirable than those without the T.
- Core i3, this is the value line. It will be slower than i5 or i7. If you do not intend to do video editing, high end games, or run scientific applications this should be fine and considerably cheaper. In this case, pay attention to the model number. The higher number in this case is worth paying attention to. For example if you see two similarly priced laptops with Core i3 2230M and a Core i3 2640MQ, take the 2640 as that is faster. (Do not concern yourself with this for i5 and i7, the differences won’t be noticeably to you)
- There are non Core I branded options, but it gets too complicated to explain the differences. Core I brand will be the majority of your options anyway.

Memory:
- 4GB is the absolute minimum. 6GB is ideal. 8GB is better, but probably not worth the price premium.

Windows:
- Get Windows 7 Home Premium or Windows 7 Professional. Both should say 64 bit somewhere in the title.
- Common tricks to lower the price is to include a version of Windows that isn’t Home Premium or Professional. Avoid these. Also avoid 32 bit branded versions also. And seriously, if anyone tells you to get Windows XP they obviously are ignorant or trying to sell you some old hardware. Run.

Graphics:
- Cheaper laptops will come with graphics support built in. This is fine unless you want to play a lot of games. Then your experience will suffer greatly. Also you can’t guarantee Windows 8 will 100% support your laptop in the future. If you are going to cut corners, this is one place where taking the graphics that come with the laptop should be fine.
- If the machine has a dedicated graphics card (It will say something like 512 or 1GB graphics) that is a better option, but won’t speed up things like web browsing or Excel. It is strictly for high end games and other graphical elements.

Hard Disk:
- You can always add an external drive for cheap later, so place less emphasis on this. Spend for processor and memory.
- 500 GB should be the minimum you consider. Anything above that is bonus. (Laptop, if considering a desktop you should look for 750 GB as minimum)

Optical Drive:
- If you want to burn CD’s or DVDs, make sure it has –R at the end. A DVD-R should be the minimum you look for, and I doubt they sell them without. RW means you can re-use the same disc, something of minimal value these days.
- Blu-ray will add to the price considerably. Look for it only if you absolutely need to watch Blu-Ray discs.


I also wanted to send you a big thank you. (i don't know how respond to two post in the same reply -- yours and Fyrefly ). Your info was really helpful.

I did take your advise about the size. I didn't realize that the 15" came with the numeric keypad. When I checked it out in the store it felt ok, and the keypad & monitor was not much different than the 17". So I went with the lighter one.

Thanks again for providing me with detailed info.
 












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