Please tell me what u use and which one would be better to get good action shots and not so close shots.
OK...I'll try to knock this down to some simple stuff, because it doesn't sound like you're a trained photographer (no offense) so many of the technical terms you haven't yet learned. We photographers tend to be techno nerds with our cameras because photography is something we deeply love - it's sometimes hard to give advice to others who simply need to be able to take photos, but have no real deep love or enthusiasm for photography (I see so many photographers jump to recommending DSLRs to folks who ask a basic question about the best camera for them...though a DSLR is the best camera for many of those purposes, it often overlooks that some folks just have no interest in ever learning to become a photographer). Just because you use a camera, doesn't mean you want to become an enthusiast...even if you want to use it well. I use an oven, though I'm not a chef...I want to use it well, but I admit to having no interest in ever becoming a gourmet chef. A basic oven and basic grasp of basic cooking techniques will keep me happy!
First off, as you've already seen from others here, don't worry so much about the brand you purchased. It's a fine camera - anything from the top 6 or so companies will do just fine. Sure, some might be a little better than others, but the photographer will make a far bigger difference than switching brands.
Second...what you probably could use are a few very basic techniques to getting better overall photos from ANY camera, and notably from a superzoom camera. Some of these you may already know...some maybe not...but all of them should help you to take better photos and learn a bit about when to use what mode.
1. Shutter button - learn how to half-press and hold the shutter! So many beginners just 'mash' the shutter button to get a shot. All cameras, from the most basic P&S to the biggest manliest DSLR, will function at their best when you half-press the shutter first - let the camera's autofocus and metering systems survey the scene, determine where everything should be, stabilize, and then shoot. When half-pressing, you'll get some form of on-screen indication of where the camera is focusing (little boxes light up around that subject). Right away, this can help you determine if the focus is going to be where you want. Pointing at a kid standing in front of a big tree, and the focus lights up on the tree instead of the boy? Well, you just foudn out the boy's face won't be in focus! Try again with the half-press until the focus is where you want it. THEN fully depress the shutter. The neat thing about half-press-and-hold is that you can even recompose the shot after you've focused - point the camera way off to the right and half-press to get it to focus on something, then while holding the half-press, move back to the left until the shot looks nice and pretty on the screen before fully pressing.
2. Stance - how you hold the camera and how you shoot it will be a huge factor in getting better shots. Especially with P&S digitals, which virtually all use LCDs to line up the shot, you no longer have the stability of a larger, heavier camera held up to your face. Most blurry shots I see from beginners have more to do with not holding the camera still enough. Learn to get a good steady stance before shooting. The half-press technique above will help. Another idea is to use two hands to stabilize the camera - even a small one. Your left hand can be braced with the albow against your body and palm out like a platform for the camera to sit on...while the right hand holds the grip. Spread out your legs a bit for stability. Breathe comfortably. Half press the shutter button, then gently press all the way - roll onto the shutter button with your finger, rather than stabbing at it.
3. Scene modes - we 'experts' hate these modes. We think we know better - sometimes we do. But most people don't. So don't be afraid to use them. Check out the little icons and learn what they mean - use them when the scene you are shooting looks like one of the icons! Especially with action shooting - sports modes can be helpful because they tell the camera to try to get a really fast shutter speed to freeze the movement - the camera will change whatever settings it has to in order to get a fast shutter - you don't need to know what its doing or why. Eventually, maybe if you find yourself becoming an enthusiast, you might want to start learning what and why...but if not, no worries!
4. Zoom - if you've got a big zoom, you're tempted to use it. Basic advice - don't unless you have to. Try to learn to use the zoom as a tool that is there for you when you have no alternative, rather than rely on it for everything. These little cams lose some quality when zooming, and the lenses lose some light...making the shots harder to avoid blur. And when zooming, even the tiniest of movements get transmitted through all that distance and on the other end are huge. To get an idea of the effect of movement on a big zoom lens, try this: nod your head up and down a few times while looking at a distant scene. You can probably still see the scene just fine - you know you're moving your head, but it isn't really making it hard to see what's out there. Now, try that again but look through a pair of binoculars at the distant scene. Move your head the same amount. Bet you couldn't see a thing! Everything was moving violently up and down in huge sweeps...no way to focus on any details. Well, that's what the camera is trying to do when you're fully zoomed - you need to be as still as possible, because even tiny movements become huge movements all the way at the long end of that lens. Stabilization systems in most P&S cameras can help correct for tiny movements at the wide end of the lens, but can't make up as much with the zoom. So the idea is - zoom with your feet whenever you can. If you are shooting something 50 feet away, and you wanted to fill your screen with it, and you can A. zoom in, or B. walk up closer then shoot...opt for B. The only time you use option A is when you can't walk any closer - like shooting across a lake, or up high on a building.
Hopefully others can chime in with more basic tips that might help you...I figured I'd just kick off with a few. I tried to keep out the technical language. Hope that helps a bit!
We leave sunday and would like to have this taken care of soon. TIA
You'll find more opinions here, and it will get even more confusing. There's always a "newer" or "cooler" camera out there.
It's all greek to me!! 
I totally agree!! I'm trying really hard to understand all of it, to get the most out of my camera but my brain just can't process it!
