Hard drive crash- what to do?

leebee

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Sep 14, 1999
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DD20 has a MacBook Pro that we bought, new, in September 2013. Today, for no known reason, the hard drive crashed! She has the blinking folder with the ? on it. There's nothing we can do. Fortunately the semester has ended, but she is supposed to start an online class on Monday.

What is our next step? She bought it on campus through the Campus Computer Connection, so she's going to take it to them tomorrow morning. I have no idea what she should be doing, looking for (she doesn't have any discs or anything that came with it; she just turned it on and followed the online steps and it worked), trying. Why does a hard drive crash? What should she do next? We are all a little shell-shocked; this is a MacBook!!
 
DD20 has a MacBook Pro that we bought, new, in September 2013. Today, for no known reason, the hard drive crashed! She has the blinking folder with the ? on it. There's nothing we can do. Fortunately the semester has ended, but she is supposed to start an online class on Monday.

What is our next step? She bought it on campus through the Campus Computer Connection, so she's going to take it to them tomorrow morning. I have no idea what she should be doing, looking for (she doesn't have any discs or anything that came with it; she just turned it on and followed the online steps and it worked), trying. Why does a hard drive crash? What should she do next? We are all a little shell-shocked; this is a MacBook!!

Does she have Apple Care? If so, Apple will be able to help. Does she have a backup external hard drive? Again, if so, restoration of what she has will be pretty straightforward.

Macs don't crash as often, but they can crash and it's awful when it happens. I've had it happen exactly once in twenty years, and it set me back at least a month. I'm sorry she's going through this--but at least the semester is over!
 
A hard drive most often crashes because the physical heads that read the information on the magnetic platters are never supposed to touch the platters while it's spinning. It's supposed to ride on cushion of air and get "parked" in landing zones either for emergencies (if there's anti-shock detection) or when it's stopped.

Most crashes are a result of wear of the bearings or motors, where it wobbles enough that the head just touches. Sometimes if it's dropped and there's no anti-shock detection, the heads will scrape the surface and destroy the data. Anti-shock is supposed to sense that it's falling or being struck and park the heads before data sections are damaged. Apple has had this technology for a while, and they build it into the machine itself. Some people have reported issues when they've installed new drives that had their own anti-shock technology that interfered with the on-board system. There is a way to turn it off in the machine - which let's the hard drive's system handle the protection. A lot of failures are partial and give an imminent failure warning (the system is called S.M.A.R.T for Self-Monitoring, Analysis, and Reporting Technology).

There are actually quite a few ways that hard drives fail, but physical contact is the most common and dramatic. My kid dropped my wife's netbook once and it just died. There's also electronic failure. Here's the Wikipedia entry for a decent rundown:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_drive_failure

There are services that can attempt to retrieve data, but the costs depend on what the actual cause is. It might be possible to rebuild dead electronics, but that would require an identical drive and careful rebuilding of the platter to the electronics. I've heard of some strange DIY attempts, including cooling a drive in freezer or heating in an oven and then attempting to copy it before it permanently dies. This is a one-time attempt. A professional might attempt to disassemble the drive in a clean room and rebuild it long enough to get the data off. Most services make no guarantees because often some of the data is completely gone.
 
Does she have Apple Care? If so, Apple will be able to help. Does she have a backup external hard drive? Again, if so, restoration of what she has will be pretty straightforward.

Macs don't crash as often, but they can crash and it's awful when it happens. I've had it happen exactly once in twenty years, and it set me back at least a month. I'm sorry she's going through this--but at least the semester is over!

The hard drives themselves are generally no more or less reliable. There are only a few hard drive makers left, and they've all had recalls. I've got an older Mac laptop with the original hard drive (that model is notoriously difficult to swap out a hard drive) and the drive makes horrible noises. The S.M.A.R.T. status is actually that the drive is still good.

I remember there was a notorious set of Seagate drives made exclusively for Apple, where the heads sometimes would fall off from the control arms and the scratches would be so deep that they were impossible to recover. A lot of people tried to recover the data themselves and it just destroyed more data. The proper recovery in that case would have been to stop using it and having it opened in a clean room with a new head assembly. However, it's almost impossible for anyone to know what to do unless it's a notorious case. The failures were more or less random and weren't due to anything the user did (like drop it).
 

Here's a photo of a disassembled hard drive that suffered a head crash:

800px-Hard_disk_head_crash.jpg


Basically all of that data that used to be in the scratched area just got removed and it's impossible to retrieve. It might be possible to try and retrieve data elsewhere on the drive. It doesn't necessarily damage the head in all cases, but the data is gone.

There are a bunch of reasons why it might crash. One is shock, although that's often avoided with anti-shock technology that parks the heads where there's no data before a crash occurs. Sometimes there's a sharp atmospheric change (there's typically a vent hole that says "do not cover"). There's still a filter to keep out dust, but covering the hole can contribute to a head crash.
 
Now you know. make periodic backup. It's not if they crash but when they crash. I had one go after one month and an external after a day. They all crash sooner or later.

A good move would be to back up to a 32 gig flash (thumb) drive. That's the first thing I do when I get a new computer. I make a recovery disk.
 
Now you know. make periodic backup. It's not if they crash but when they crash. I had one go after one month and an external after a day. They all crash sooner or later.

A good move would be to back up to a 32 gig flash (thumb) drive. That's the first thing I do when I get a new computer. I make a recovery disk.

Flash has certain issues too. The one that most don't think about it charge leakage. Most have a rating for charge retention, and they can often be unreadable in a few years. They need some sort of scheme to refresh or move the data periodically, but that's typically not the case when the device is thought of as an archive and stored in a closet or cabinet. I've heard of people who bought flash memory cards thinking that they could store them like camera film. I've also got one of these USB drives. Even though it still technically works, it behaves strangely. It takes much longer to write or even to pull up a directory. I think it's starting to get worn and it's going through more and more error correction. I've already copied the data, but it's probably about time to retire it.

You could take a hard drive, stash it away for 20 years, and if the storage conditions are decent it should still work fine and not lose any data. Of course there are other issues, such as possibly the interface format is no longer supported or would require some sort of bridge to get it to work with current interfaces. I don't think CD or DVD is going to be hard to find compatibility in 20 years, but the recordable media is notorious for failing.
 
after solving the current issue of no computer:

Carbonite is an online service that automatically backs up data as it is generated, as long as the computer is online. I have used it in the past. Now I use a backup hard drive in my house with a backup program that runs consistently.

The last time I was using carbonite service it only saved data that was still on the computer. So if you deleted pictures they would be purged from the backup in 30 days. It is a recovery system, not long term storage.

I strongly suggest an instant real time backup system for anyone in business or school. Data loss can have extreme impact on deadlines.

Mikeeee
 
Flash has certain issues too. The one that most don't think about it charge leakage. Most have a rating for charge retention, and they can often be unreadable in a few years. They need some sort of scheme to refresh or move the data periodically, but that's typically not the case when the device is thought of as an archive and stored in a closet or cabinet. I've heard of people who bought flash memory cards thinking that they could store them like camera film. I've also got one of these USB drives. Even though it still technically works, it behaves strangely. It takes much longer to write or even to pull up a directory. I think it's starting to get worn and it's going through more and more error correction. I've already copied the data, but it's probably about time to retire it.

You could take a hard drive, stash it away for 20 years, and if the storage conditions are decent it should still work fine and not lose any data. Of course there are other issues, such as possibly the interface format is no longer supported or would require some sort of bridge to get it to work with current interfaces. I don't think CD or DVD is going to be hard to find compatibility in 20 years, but the recordable media is notorious for failing.

That's true. the general thinking is that data should last at least for 10 years, without any loss of information
 
Ahh the drawbacks of the digital world-hard drive crashes, data format changes, fragile storage media. There was something to be said for durable media like papyrus, paper, ink and photography prints.....
OP-you will need to replace the hard drive and the data if not backed up is likely lost in cyber space. Mother boards crash too-even in MACS-so a good back up-cloud or recordable media like CD is always a good idea.
 
Ahh the drawbacks of the digital world-hard drive crashes, data format changes, fragile storage media. There was something to be said for durable media like papyrus, paper, ink and photography prints.....
OP-you will need to replace the hard drive and the data if not backed up is likely lost in cyber space. Mother boards crash too-even in MACS-so a good back up-cloud or recordable media like CD is always a good idea.

Paper often cracks - especially if it wasn't designed for archival storage. I used to collect comic books, and there were sprays designed to stabilize the pulp paper used without affecting the look and feel. I remember buying storage sleeves made with Mylar and using stiff backing boards of acid-free material using a calcium carbonate buffer. Ink especially fades. I would also never rely on photocopy and/or laser print toner. That stuff usually sticks after a few years or even days stored in hot conditions. And you've never heard of faded slides, negatives, and prints?

http://www.archives.gov/preservation/formats/photographs.html

I've heard that color photos fade. What can be done to stop the fading?

Yes, color photographs do fade. Unfortunately, the color dyes used in the image irreversibly decay with time. Light increases fading. Fading increases with the brightness of the light and the length of time in the light. When displayed, photos should be kept away from direct sunlight or bright lamps that are left on constantly.

Heat also increases fading, even at moderate temperatures, such as 70-75F, found in homes. At these temperatures, fading always occurs, even in the dark! Color photos will last longer if stored in the dark, in a cool dry location. However, only storage at cold temperatures can slow this irreversible decay process to a near stop. Cold storage is not practical for most people and can even cause more immediate damage if used improperly. Frost-free freezers can be used as long as special enclosures and handling procedures are followed (see Cold Storage Handling Guidelines for Photographs).

In recent years, since the mid-1980s and especially since 1990, the major photographic manufacturers have developed more stable dyes for color photographs, including the type of photographic paper used for snapshots. The good news is that these modern photographic prints will only fade a little over a lifetime, or even in 100 years, if kept in average home conditions. When displayed in moderate light conditions, slight fading might occur in 25 to 50 years. Remember that moderate light conditions do not include direct sunlight or bright spotlights! Previous to the mid-1980s, color photos faded dramatically in a few years when displayed even in moderate light, or even after 10 to 20 years when stored in boxes and albums. The other good news is that Kodachrome slides and transparencies always had stable dyes and will last decades with very little fading if they are not left in a projector for long periods. Even 60 year old Kodachrome slides look nearly unfaded. Cibachrome (now called Ilfochrome) photos always had good color dye stability, too. The bad news is that your older family photos and favorite portraits, Ektachrome slides, and other important color photos, are probably already faded. If you have selected the most important family photographs, those you hope to have for your lifetime or future generations, they should be copied now and printed onto the more stable color photograph papers (see: Where can I find sources for duplicating/copying historical photographs?). Faded color photographs also can now be scanned into a computer and digitally enhanced to restore the faded dyes to near original appearance, then printed onto the more stable photographic papers. Avoid copy prints made on computer printer paper, as these fade even faster than old color photos and are unusually sensitive to water!

While there is always the issue of compatibility of the hardware, I'd think image and most data common data formats will always be retrievable. The key is to repeat archiving them before the medium fails. The nice thing about digital data is that it can be perfectly reproduced indefinitely without any replicative losses. That simply doesn't happen when someone makes a copy of a copy of something like analog audio or a photograph.
 
That's true. the general thinking is that data should last at least for 10 years, without any loss of information

That's theoretical. Real world comes with all sorts of issues, including high storage temperatures.

Not only that, but recent technology includes the use of "multi-level cell" technology to increase the effective storage density to make storage cheaper. It can make things cheaper, but that comes at a cost of shorter data retention times and even lower "endurance". I hear that the number of times a "block" (and flash basically rewrites over an old block only when it's completely erased first) can be reprogrammed with data is maybe 100,000 cycles, and is moving lower to maybe 10,000 or even less with these multi-level flash cells.

http://www.computerweekly.com/featu...lash-vendors-are-boosting-MLC-write-endurance

The other issue is that these things do start failing slowly. You can get all your data perfectly, but it starts applying error correction when it notices there's an error. This takes more time and some people find that older flash devices seem to get slower and slower as they need to spend more time on error correction. There are other reasons for slowdowns though.
 
First off you have a one year warranty on that computer. So its still warranty. Contact them or make an appointment at the Apple store. Do not let anyone else look at it as it can void your warranty.
 
First off you have a one year warranty on that computer. So its still warranty. Contact them or make an appointment at the Apple store. Do not let anyone else look at it as it can void your warranty.

As someone who has dealt with warranty issues, technically having someone else look at it won't void the warranty. If they damage something, the warrantor isn't obligated to fix it though. However, once there's a dispute it gets into "sue me" mode.

However, the one thing I forgot to mention is that the vast majority of warranties and service contracts (like AppleCare) don't include data recovery in the case of a drive crashing. All they'll do is replace a damaged drive with one that's in factory new condition or refurbished. I say that as someone who helped his wife send in a computer for a crashed hard drive. It was also a netbook (no recovery discs), so recovery wasn't exactly going to be easy unless the manufacturer fixed it.

Here's AppleCare's terms for North America:

http://www.apple.com/legal/sales-support/applecare/appmacnaen.html

4. What is not Covered?

(xi) Damage to, or loss of any software or data residing or recorded on the Covered Equipment. Recovery and reinstallation of software programs and user data are not covered under this Plan.

So if that's important to the OP, then data recovery services are a better choice. If you bring it for AppleCare service, they reserve the right to keep the damaged drive, and I understand that's what they normally do. Apple wants to be able to do failure analysis on their OEM parts.

As for eventual backup, I use Carbon Copy Cloner, but I missed out on the window to reregister for free updates before they moved to a pay model from their previous donationware model. I had donated $10 before. I still use the last version I installed and I haven't had any issues. I create a bootable clone. If my drive crashes, I can swap it out, boot from my clone (it's a complete external hard drive) externally, and use that to format a new drive and then copy to the newly formatted drive.

Another option is to buy a bare drive and a USB enclosure to use for backups/cloning. If the original drive fails, this can be removed directly from the enclosure and installed in the machine. It should work without skipping a beat. The drive has to be compatible though in order to do a quick swap fix. I've made clones to 3.5" drives or drives with a different interface. I do it through a FW or USB interface, but if I need to recover I'll have to use it to boot externally and then clone it back, which takes more time.
 
So if that's important to the OP, then data recovery services are a better choice. If you bring it for AppleCare service, they reserve the right to keep the damaged drive, and I understand that's what they normally do. Apple wants to be able to do failure analysis on their OEM parts.

This is true. Heck even if its NOT under warranty, they will still keep the bad hard drive which I dont understand.

I just use Time Machine on my Imac and Air for back up. Its already part of the software thats on the Mac. You can get an external hard drive cheap these days.
 
So if that's important to the OP, then data recovery services are a better choice. If you bring it for AppleCare service, they reserve the right to keep the damaged drive, and I understand that's what they normally do. Apple wants to be able to do failure analysis on their OEM parts.

This is true. Heck even if its NOT under warranty, they will still keep the bad hard drive which I dont understand.

I just use Time Machine on my Imac and Air for back up. Its already part of the software thats on the Mac. You can get an external hard drive cheap these days.

Another option is to buy a bare drive and a USB enclosure to use for backups/cloning. If the original drive fails, this can be removed directly from the enclosure and installed in the machine. It should work without skipping a beat. The drive has to be compatible though in order to do a quick swap fix. I've made clones to 3.5" drives or drives with a different interface. I do it through a FW or USB interface, but if I need to recover I'll have to use it to boot externally and then clone it back, which takes more time.

This is what I do. I have my photographs saved to 3 places.
 
This is true. Heck even if its NOT under warranty, they will still keep the bad hard drive which I dont understand.

I just use Time Machine on my Imac and Air for back up. Its already part of the software thats on the Mac. You can get an external hard drive cheap these days.



This is what I do. I have my photographs saved to 3 places.

I've barely tried Time Machine. I prefer using a bootable backup option. That's just a personal preference. In a pinch I can even run an external drive for a while, although it does worry me that the whole thing could lock up if the cable is accidentally dislodged. It's also slow as heck. The other thing that annoys me is CPU slowdowns when a new drive gets "indexed".

I've heard of some interesting uses. I've heard of some people who have literally found better prices for complete, sealed portable USB drives and ripped the case apart to use the drive. It happened to be a bare 2.5" SATA drive, but there's no guarantee that's what's in the enclosure.

I actually use a 7200 RPM drive. I know my machine can handle it, but I'm not sure if a USB enclosure can properly power one. The sealed ones are typically 5400 RPM drives because the limiting factor is going to be the speed of the USB interface. I haven't heard of many 7200 RPM drives in sealed enclosures - even the USB3 ones. I'm not sure they can consistently handle the power requirements without maybe an external power supply.
 


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