Here's a review from today's Orlando Sentinel of Norman's restaurant at the new Ritz-Carlton hotel on Central Florioda Parkway. Lovely hotel, heavenly restaurant - and I agree with every word 
By Scott Joseph
Sentinel Staff Writer
October 26, 2003
When the Ritz-Carlton approached Norman Van Aken to operate a restaurant in one of its hotels, it represented the first time the luxury hotelier had contracted with an independent chef. They made a good choice with Van Aken, especially for their newest property in south Orlando. Norman's brings the sophistication one expects in a fine hotel restaurant, and the Ritz-Carlton's choice brings one of Florida's most celebrated chefs to Central Florida.
To be correct, Ritz first talked to celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck to headline its hotel, which is part of the Grande Lakes Resort that includes the J.W. Marriott. However, a non-compete clause that Puck signed with Walt Disney Co. when he opened Wolfgang Puck Cafe at Downtown Disney prevented him from accepting the invitation.
Puck may disagree, but everything turned out for the best.
Van Aken is credited with coining the term "fusion cooking" and was the father of New World Cuisine, or, as it is alternately called, Floribbean cuisine. While working in Key West in the '80s, Van Aken seized upon the idea of taking familiar dishes from Cuba and the Caribbean islands and melding them with local produce and finer quality ingredients, thus elevating simple foods to a higher level. Haute cuisine from humble roots.
He practiced his creative new cuisine at several restaurants, eventually opening Norman's in Coral Gables. The Orlando Norman's is not a replica of its South Florida predecessor in decor or menu. The menu has some of the items that Van Aken considers signature dishes, and those were the ones that were most enjoyable.
Norman's offers only two dining options: a three-course prix fixe menu for $55 and a seasonal, five-course tasting menu for $85 (paired with wine selections for an additional $55). October's menu was inspired by the writings of Jack Kerouac. I stayed with the prix fixe menu.
That's where I found the yuca-stuffed crispy shrimp, a dish that demonstrates Van Aken's culinary concept. It featured large, plump shrimp butterflied and filled with a yuca mash, battered and fried and served with a sour orange mojo sauce with salad greens and habanero tartar salsa. Van Aken is a genius with hot peppers, exacting more flavor than heat.
My companion chose the foie gras, served on a stylized slab of french toast with passion fruit and candied lime zest. It was a beautifully succulent lobe and richly flavored, hardly needing any sweetening from the fruit.
Pork belly is a dish with lowly origins that chefs of haute cuisine seem to love to put on their menus. Van Aken crisps his and serves it with a pineapple confit and a spicy tomato marmalade frisse with ginger vinaigrette. The fatty nature of the pork belly is a good source of flavor, but the treatment adds new and wonderful dimensions to it.
A paired appetizer of soft spring rolls and tuna tataki was less than thrilling. The Vietnamese style rolls filled with noodles and served with ponzu and peanut dipping sauces were fairly bland. And the tuna, which was of unquestionably high grade, seemed to be added only because the rolls weren't adequate to star on the plate on their own.
Among the main plates, I enjoyed the steak and eggs Salvadoran-style, a rib-eye steak, charred and juicy, topped with a fried egg. The richness of the yolk took the flavor of the beef to new levels.
I also enjoyed the presentation of duck, which included tender slices of breast meat topped with a green chili studded pancake filled with shredded mango barbecued duck meat. A cumin-scallion sour cream added just the right grace note.
Roasted pork Havana with Van Aken's mole was equally enjoyable. But Lapsang Souchong Tea and shallot stuffed grilled salmon spiral just didn't excite. I found the flavors too stark and the textures unappealing.
Between entree and dessert guests are offered a cheese course ($12) and have the chance to choose from among a tantalizing array of artisanal cheeses. The dessert menu itself has a couple of fine choices. "New World" banana split was a favorite. It featured rum-flamed bananas and a scoop of ice cream with chunks of macadamia nut brittle. Mama's melado chocolate cake was rich and sweet. This one is a creation of Van Aken's son, Justin, who is trying his hand at the family business.
Norman's is a beautiful room, an octagonal space with a soaring ceiling and marble floors and walls. The center of the room holds a semi-private dining space flanked tall wine cabinets. Tables are covered with fine white linens and sport simple glass oil lamps. They are set with fine Guy Degrenne flatware. There is also a terrace for outdoor dining.
Service was superb. The wine list has numerous appropriate selections with several available by the glass.
The Ritz name has become synonymous with style and elegance. Central Floridians who desire to put on the ritz for special occasions now have another fine choice in Norman's.
By Scott Joseph
Sentinel Staff Writer
October 26, 2003
When the Ritz-Carlton approached Norman Van Aken to operate a restaurant in one of its hotels, it represented the first time the luxury hotelier had contracted with an independent chef. They made a good choice with Van Aken, especially for their newest property in south Orlando. Norman's brings the sophistication one expects in a fine hotel restaurant, and the Ritz-Carlton's choice brings one of Florida's most celebrated chefs to Central Florida.
To be correct, Ritz first talked to celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck to headline its hotel, which is part of the Grande Lakes Resort that includes the J.W. Marriott. However, a non-compete clause that Puck signed with Walt Disney Co. when he opened Wolfgang Puck Cafe at Downtown Disney prevented him from accepting the invitation.
Puck may disagree, but everything turned out for the best.
Van Aken is credited with coining the term "fusion cooking" and was the father of New World Cuisine, or, as it is alternately called, Floribbean cuisine. While working in Key West in the '80s, Van Aken seized upon the idea of taking familiar dishes from Cuba and the Caribbean islands and melding them with local produce and finer quality ingredients, thus elevating simple foods to a higher level. Haute cuisine from humble roots.
He practiced his creative new cuisine at several restaurants, eventually opening Norman's in Coral Gables. The Orlando Norman's is not a replica of its South Florida predecessor in decor or menu. The menu has some of the items that Van Aken considers signature dishes, and those were the ones that were most enjoyable.
Norman's offers only two dining options: a three-course prix fixe menu for $55 and a seasonal, five-course tasting menu for $85 (paired with wine selections for an additional $55). October's menu was inspired by the writings of Jack Kerouac. I stayed with the prix fixe menu.
That's where I found the yuca-stuffed crispy shrimp, a dish that demonstrates Van Aken's culinary concept. It featured large, plump shrimp butterflied and filled with a yuca mash, battered and fried and served with a sour orange mojo sauce with salad greens and habanero tartar salsa. Van Aken is a genius with hot peppers, exacting more flavor than heat.
My companion chose the foie gras, served on a stylized slab of french toast with passion fruit and candied lime zest. It was a beautifully succulent lobe and richly flavored, hardly needing any sweetening from the fruit.
Pork belly is a dish with lowly origins that chefs of haute cuisine seem to love to put on their menus. Van Aken crisps his and serves it with a pineapple confit and a spicy tomato marmalade frisse with ginger vinaigrette. The fatty nature of the pork belly is a good source of flavor, but the treatment adds new and wonderful dimensions to it.
A paired appetizer of soft spring rolls and tuna tataki was less than thrilling. The Vietnamese style rolls filled with noodles and served with ponzu and peanut dipping sauces were fairly bland. And the tuna, which was of unquestionably high grade, seemed to be added only because the rolls weren't adequate to star on the plate on their own.
Among the main plates, I enjoyed the steak and eggs Salvadoran-style, a rib-eye steak, charred and juicy, topped with a fried egg. The richness of the yolk took the flavor of the beef to new levels.
I also enjoyed the presentation of duck, which included tender slices of breast meat topped with a green chili studded pancake filled with shredded mango barbecued duck meat. A cumin-scallion sour cream added just the right grace note.
Roasted pork Havana with Van Aken's mole was equally enjoyable. But Lapsang Souchong Tea and shallot stuffed grilled salmon spiral just didn't excite. I found the flavors too stark and the textures unappealing.
Between entree and dessert guests are offered a cheese course ($12) and have the chance to choose from among a tantalizing array of artisanal cheeses. The dessert menu itself has a couple of fine choices. "New World" banana split was a favorite. It featured rum-flamed bananas and a scoop of ice cream with chunks of macadamia nut brittle. Mama's melado chocolate cake was rich and sweet. This one is a creation of Van Aken's son, Justin, who is trying his hand at the family business.
Norman's is a beautiful room, an octagonal space with a soaring ceiling and marble floors and walls. The center of the room holds a semi-private dining space flanked tall wine cabinets. Tables are covered with fine white linens and sport simple glass oil lamps. They are set with fine Guy Degrenne flatware. There is also a terrace for outdoor dining.
Service was superb. The wine list has numerous appropriate selections with several available by the glass.
The Ritz name has become synonymous with style and elegance. Central Floridians who desire to put on the ritz for special occasions now have another fine choice in Norman's.
