Drive it till the wheels fall off

[Colleen27]

Every time there is a post like this you'll have people saying "oh, you can get another 100K out of the car!" I'm sure you can, but the real question is how much do you trust the car? Do you trust that the car is going to start and not break down on the way to somewhere important? If it is your only car, do you trust that you will not after miss work because of "car trouble"? If you drive it on a long trips, do you trust that you are not going to be stuck on the side of the road? I'm sure you can keep repairing almost any car and get more miles out of it, but is it worth it if it has to keep going tint the shop?

Yep, that's the question for me. My van is 10 years old and has 150K+ miles on it, but I still trust it completely. The problems we've had have been of the "take care of this ASAP" nature not the "stranded on the side of the road" nature, just routine wear-and-tear stuff, and the engine & transmission are strong.

We start looking for something newer and more reliable the minute I start wondering if my current vehicle will get me where I need to go, and that isn't necessarily related to the cost of repairs. Tires and tie rods and such need replacing from time to time but have no real bearing on the current or future reliability of the vehicle; that all falls into the routine wear-and-tear category for me.

 

[Kriii]

We too like to maximize the miles we get from our vehicles. For us, the deciding factor is usually whether or not a repair is likely to net a decent number of additional miles plus keeping in mind the overall safety of the vehicle. Routine wear and tear or maintenance don't count. We currently own 2 vehicles with 200+ miles and one with about 180,000. Anticipating a time in the near future when one or more would need replacement, we had been keeping an eye out for a good deal. We were able to purchase a very nice late model vehicle from a friend after the lease ended and have that as our back up vehicle. Good luck with your decision.

 

[*Seanaci*]

Every time there is a post like this you'll have people saying "oh, you can get another 100K out of the car!" I'm sure you can, but the real question is how much do you trust the car? Do you trust that the car is going to start and not break down on the way to somewhere important? If it is your only car, do you trust that you will not after miss work because of "car trouble"? If you drive it on a long trips, do you trust that you are not going to be stuck on the side of the road? I'm sure you can keep repairing almost any car and get more miles out of it, but is it worth it if it has to keep going tint the shop?

This exactly!

I am driving a 98 Ford Contour. I've made 800 in repairs to it this year (due to squirrels eating the wiring under the hood). It should be well over 800 as not 6 weeks after EVERYTHING was repaired, the damn squirrels got in there again and chewed wiring (I've put off fixing the wiring because it is not detrimental to the car running, I just have to use a bottle of water to clean my windshield rather than pull my sprayer button for the washer fluid). I'm too a point where I know we need to get a new car...and I would rather make a car payment than keep repairing damage caused by squirrels (I tried everything to keep the squirrels out from under the hood...and the only thing that has worked was moving the car and parking it in the street).

 

[Banzai]

I still love driving my 1995 black Volvo 850. The car is a blast to drive, has butt warmers and is my little buddy. However, I put a ton of miles on and I am starting to get leary of driving it long distances.

Plus, the gas mileage is less than steller. So, in the spring/summer, I plan on getting rid of it, and getting a hybrid. I can not drive something with 15mpg (premium, of course ) for another summer.

 

[diesel]

People who want to drive their car unit "the wheels fall off" still have to decide when it's time to get rid of the car.

Substantial rust is one reason.

A car which needs an engine or transmission overhaul is another reason.

A car which has multiple (expensive) maintenance items coming up in the next 6-12 months is another reason. You know your car will need new tires, brakes and a timing belt in the next 6 months. Your battery is 4-5 years old. You're starting to burn engine oil (or transmission fluid). You may be looking at 1-2K of repairs/maintenance without a transmission or engine. Substantially more if you need either.

edited to add--Also check places like Consumers Reports. You should be less likely to spend $$$ repairs/maintenance if the car has a history of transmission issues.

I was going to ask about rust. I have a 2005 mini van with 70,000 miles on it with bad rust under the car that is creeping to the bottom of my doors. We have an estimate of $3000 to fix it. It's amazing how quickly the rust has spread in just a few months. Other than rust car is great and well maintained (husband is a mechanic). My husband wants to sell the car because he says even if we fix the rust it will come back eventually. I'd love a new car but hate the thought of a car payment. It's been paid off for three years.

So should we pay to fix it and keep a few more years or sell now?

 

[abcboys]

Another GM van owner here (2005 Relay with 100K miles on it). Just wanted to commiserate with you about the stinkin' "power" (and I use that term loosely) sliding door! Ours has never quite worked right, even after replacing the entire mechanism and having it adjusted a trillion times. GM just does not do well with electronic components. We have to "help" ours close every single time. Kind of an embarrassment in the car rider line at DS's elementary school. "Look, there comes the lady we have to help her door close!" . All that being said, the engine has always run like a champ . We are hoping to replace ol' Bessie next fall when YDS is done with preschool and we get the "done with preschool raise" . Good luck with whatever decision you make! --Katie

OMG, that door is sooo annoying! I wish it was just a regular door and not an automatic one. It always pops back open unless I shut it off right when it is closing (which I have to do every time otherwise it beeps continuously) And if I just leave the power off the door is soooo stinking heavy that the kids can't hardly even open it. And here lately when I push the button to open it it doesn't work, and the kids have to push with all their might to get out of the van on that side when I drop off for school and if the 6 year old is the last one left I have to help him!

 

[Mom2apirate&princess]

I'm encouraged reading all of these responses. Our van in a 2005 and almost has 80K miles on it. I paid it off earlier this year and LOVE not having that $500 monthly payment. I want to drive it until the wheels fall off. We've been lucky so far with no major repairs and what has needed repair dh has been able to do it. I'm hoping to drive it for another 3 to 4 years.

 

[jedijill]

My 1964½ Mustang has 98,000 miles on it when I managed to warp the heads. So I ordered a

1969 Cougar XR-7 Convertible. When it had 232,000 miles on it there was need for an engine rebuild, repainting, reupholstering and more, so I got a

1989 Plymouth Acclaim which managed to lose the transmission at 185,000. The mechanic who normally took care of it asked how I managed to get it to his garage.

My 1997 Ford Taurus had just under 180,000 miles when I decided I needed something easier to get in and out of.

My 2008 Ford Edge only has 68,000 miles on it; I expect to keep it for several more years.

You should have kept the Mustang.

Jill in CO (proud owner/restorer of a 66 Mustang convertible!)

 

[GaSleepingBeautyFan]

On my van it was when the computer system on it went out.

It was 11 years old and I was sick of driving a van anyways so I was glad it needed a too expensive to repair repair. LOL

If I was in your shoes, I'd be ditching your vehicle and getting a new one. I'd consider it too many repairs in a short time. I wouldn't trust it anymore.

 

[Mac7]

I still love driving my 1995 black Volvo 850. The car is a blast to drive, has butt warmers and is my little buddy. However, I put a ton of miles on and I am starting to get leary of driving it long distances.

Plus, the gas mileage is less than steller. So, in the spring/summer, I plan on getting rid of it, and getting a hybrid. I can not drive something with 15mpg (premium, of course ) for another summer.

Had a Volvo 850 myself for a long time. Great car but if you got rid of it for the summer, not a bad idea since the A/Cs on those tended to fall apart. I also had the "butt warmers" on mine.

The 850 will run on regular, but I found it did better overall with 91 octane. I used to be able to get it at Sunoco but haven't looked for it since I got a new car two years ago. Costs less than the 93 octane stuff and does well in an 850. I was getting about 20-21mpg on mine but could get up to 34mpg highway as long as I stuck near 60mph.

Seeing you're from the Pittsburgh area, this will also hurt your mpg since there's a ton of hills. Used to live there until a few months ago when I came south. This is especially true around Gibsonia--I'm way too familiar with Route 8 after living just south of Gibsonia for 16 years. (Also nice to see another suburban Pittsburgher on here--I'm new to the forums).

 

[kirstenb1]

I'd love a new car, but

1. dh has car payments right now, and we try to alternate whose car has payments

2. every month, that's several hundred dollars that goes toward an unforeseen expense, savings, etc.

so I continue to drive my same car.

 

[christineann]

I drive a 1998 Chevy Silverado (which I purchased new) with 207,000+ miles on it. Runs GREAT. I just had my biggest repair on it so far - a new radiator.

My brother drives a 1997 Silverado with more miles than mine. He called the owner of the dealership where we both got our trucks to let him know that his son recently learned to drive in the same vehicle that was used to bring him home from the hospital as a newborn.

 

[dcfromva]

This thread was started almost a year ago. I wonder what ABCboys decided to do?

 

[Scrappygrrl]

Before kids, we drove till the wheels fell off. After kids, it's different. We've made the decision that we want a car where the safety features are up to date and reliable so we won't drive it for more than 8 years. Of course, this may not be a "budget" tip, lol! We have friends who only lease for this reason.

 

[Pigeon]

I start agitating to get a new car when I genuinely stop feeling safe in the old one. I don't care at all how a car looks, but if I feel it's unreliable, I'm ready to be done.

It's an uphill battle with dh, who usually will offer to drive the old car himself, but I'm not interested in having him get killed, either.

There's usually some straw that breaks the camel's back. Last year, we got rid of an 11 year old Saturn because endless trips to the dealer and an independent mechanic were able to fix the turn signals or the windshield wipers.

Before that, it was a 13 year old Toyota with terminal brake issues.

We both work and having to leave a car to get worked on is a major PIA. We don't have coworkers who live close by. So when that starts being a major inconvenience, I feel like it's time.

 

[JamesMom]

Have you priced used and new cars lately? Crazy expensive. In 2005 I bought a 2003 Ford Explorer with 14,000 miles for $15,000. Been a great vehicle with just maintenance stuff over the years. It now has 95,000 miles on it and hope for it go to at least 150K and beyond. We camp a lot (3 trips this fall) and need the room. We had it die a few month ago and we were forturnate that a few hundred got it running again, but I searched online just in case it was toast. Anything with less than 50,000 miles in the explorer family was at least $25,000. Are you kidding me? New costs $32,000 or so. Regardless - no way I want that car payment! So if the car needs a tranny or engine - we will most likely replace it and keep it going.
So in answer to the wheels fall off is to buy more wheels and keep going

 

[richmond282]

Whe the car the cost of necessary repair work is more than the blue book value of the vehicle, your wheels have "fallen off."

 

[csharpwv]

If I were you I would expedite the new roof on the house, and start 'making payments' into savings on a replacement vehicle.

On the NEW vs. USED debate - I've said, the only way I will ever buy a new car again is with a 0% finance offer. That's the only way a new car makes sense anymore.

DW and I have friends that buy NEW cars every 2 years - so I know there are thousands of GREAT gently used cards that will have the same, or better life expectancy than some new cars!

We have a 2005 Ford Escape with a liftgate rust issue that needs to be addressed - and a 2010 Ford Taurus - both were purchased new.
The Escape is free and clear, and we'll have the Taurus paid off either this Summer or next winter, can't remember at the moment.

BUT, once it is paid off, we will divert the money into a separate savings account to start saving up to buy a replacement for the Escape when it becomes necessary.

We definitely are not in the trade it every two years circle - we love our cars to much to trade them that often! HAHA

 

[Lintasare]

Zombie Thread. Was started a year ago.

 

[mrodgers]

Whe the car the cost of necessary repair work is more than the blue book value of the vehicle, your wheels have "fallen off."

I disagree. If I have to have a head gasket replaced to the tune of $1200 on a $1000 car, it is far cheaper than paying $400/month for a new car.

On the NEW vs. USED debate - I've said, the only way I will ever buy a new car again is with a 0% finance offer. That's the only way a new car makes sense anymore.

I wouldn't do it with 0% either, I don't want to HAVE to put out $350-400/month.

I looked at prices and calculated out a few cars ranging from new (5 yr loan at my Credit Union rates) to 2 years old (4-5 year loan at my Credit Union rates) to 5 years old (cash and I've always bought 5 years old.) Everyone is talking about how expensive used cars are compared to new cars. My calculations taking into consideration that I drive 25k miles/year and typically drive to 200k miles, over the lifetime of the car were about $0.10/mile for new, $0.11/mile 2 years old, and $0.12/mile 5 years old. I'll pay cash for 5 years old and take the extra $0.02/mile to be able to allot that $350/month in any way I need it to be rather than being stuck in a car payment.

Zombie Thread. Was started a year ago.

Who cares if more people have something to say?