Depth of field and apertures

DoleWhipDVC

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I'm doing all my research and trying to learn about using depth of field, particularly with the wide angle lens. I've read repeatedly that a smaller aperture will give me a larger depth of field and the opposite is true for a larger aperture. Stopping down the aperture (making the aperture smaller by using a larger f-stop) will give me better focus on objects throughout the photo. Now here is my question....why?? When the aperture is smaller, it lets in less light and, I would assume, usually stays open for a shorter period of time. Other wise one would have used a larger aperture and let it stay open longer. If the aperture is "dinky" say f/22, how can it get that much detail and focus? I would think that a larger aperture (smaller f-stop such as f/4) would let in more detail and thus allow for more focus on captured objects. Can anyone shed any light (o.k. that was bad) on this since, as usual, I'm as confused as a baby raccoon:confused3
 
Another thing to remember is that aperture has nothing to do with how long the shutter stays open. That is a function of shutter speed. An aperture of f/2 will stay open the same amount of time as f/22 given a constant shutter speed.
 
Not sure how accurate this is....... but I've heard it described as being similar to squinting your eyes to see something more clearly.
 

I've read repeatedly that a smaller aperture will give me a larger depth of field and the opposite is true for a larger aperture. Stopping down the aperture (making the aperture smaller by using a larger f-stop) will give me better focus on objects throughout the photo.
Just to help you along a bit, the correct terminology is shallow depth of field (large aperture/small number), and deep depth of field (small aperture/large number) - for clarification.

Now here is my question....why?? When the aperture is smaller, it lets in less light and, I would assume, usually stays open for a shorter period of time. Other wise one would have used a larger aperture and let it stay open longer. If the aperture is "dinky" say f/22, how can it get that much detail and focus? I would think that a larger aperture (smaller f-stop such as f/4) would let in more detail and thus allow for more focus on captured objects. Can anyone shed any light (o.k. that was bad) on this since, as usual, I'm as confused as a baby raccoon.
Depth of field and focus points are two separate things - but work together. You need to understand both to achieve the look you're going for. This helped me understand it.

http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com...olling_Depth_of_Field__EVOLT_E-410/index.html
 
The simple answer is that it's how the lens bends the light. The light rays are more "focused" with a smaller diameter opening, so it has more depth of field.
 
I have not read these in a while, but I think your answer will be in there.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field

Also, the sharpest and most detailed aperture is around three stops from the widest open. This is usually around f/8. At f/22 you will have more DOF, but not detail and sharpness.

So stepping the Tamron 10-24mm down two or three stops from wide open (and that aperture would depend on the focal length I'm using) should give me greater depth of field. Is that right?
 
Not sure how accurate this is....... but I've heard it described as being similar to squinting your eyes to see something more clearly.

The simple answer is that it's how the lens bends the light. The light rays are more "focused" with a smaller diameter opening, so it has more depth of field.

Ah-ha!!! Being one who wears glasses, this makes perfect sense! And here I am thinking the explanation would be all technical! :goodvibes
 
Just to help you along a bit, the correct terminology is shallow depth of field (large aperture/small number), and deep depth of field (small aperture/large number) - for clarification.

Thanks for the tip, I'm still working on all the proper terminology:thumbsup2


Depth of field and focus points are two separate things - but work together. You need to understand both to achieve the look you're going for. This helped me understand it.

http://www.olympusdigitalschool.com...olling_Depth_of_Field__EVOLT_E-410/index.html

I'll check this out. Thank you
 
Another thing to remember is that aperture has nothing to do with how long the shutter stays open. That is a function of shutter speed. An aperture of f/2 will stay open the same amount of time as f/22 given a constant shutter speed.

Understood. My comment was following my line of thinking that most large aperture shots are done because of low light, and that would necessitate leaving a large aperture open longer to compensate for the lack of light. But I see your point completely.
 
Ah-ha!!! Being one who wears glasses, this makes perfect sense! And here I am thinking the explanation would be all technical!
The other thing you can do to understand it is to form your index finger and thumb into a circle and put it around your eye. See what happens when you close your other eye and look around.
 
Understood. My comment was following my line of thinking that most large aperture shots are done because of low light, and that would necessitate leaving a large aperture open longer to compensate for the lack of light. But I see your point completely.

:thumbsup2
 
So stepping the Tamron 10-24mm down two or three stops from wide open (and that aperture would depend on the focal length I'm using) should give me greater depth of field. Is that right?

Yes it will. It also gives more detail and sharpness if that is important to you. I used to worry about that a lot, but not so much anymore. It prevented me thinking creatively when I was always concerned about keeping it the sharpest. I now set the aperture to what DOF I want and make sure that it gives me the shutter speed I want. If not then I adjust the ISO to compensate. When you plan your DOF and shutter speed to get the desired effect, you usually end up happier with the result than when you strive for sharpness. You can end up with boring, but sharp, pictures.
 
Depth of field is also controlled by the focal length and the distance to the subject. Wider focal lengths give greater depth of field and telephoto focal lengths give shallower depth of field. Focusing on a subject farther away will give greater depth of field and focusing on a subject closer will give shallower depth of field.
 
I am new member and its nice information shared about understanding the phenomenon of Depth of field.The idea of Grill sounds well and the link shared is just praising.It is good learning..
 
Here is my simple way of thinking about the relationship between smaller apertures and deeper depth of field. It's all about angles.

First, let's clear up one myth that might get in the way. People sometimes think that each part of their image goes through its own part of the lens. In the illustration below, they imagine that the eyes goes through the upper part of the lens and the mouth goes through the lower part of the lens. This is wrong.
i-gxjTF9D-L.jpg


For all practical purposes, every part of the image goes through every part of the lens. This is why small scratches and nicks on your glass don't show up as spots on your picture. As seen in this illustration, the eyes go through the top and bottom of the lens (and all points in between) and so does the mouth. The lens then focuses all those streams of light back to their respective places in the picture.

i-3krJCSB-L.jpg


If we move the sensor or lens out of focus, the streams of light coming from the eye in the picture don't get focused back to a single spot. Instead of the "eye" appearing as a single spot on the sensor, it is smeared across a blurry circle. This is called the circle of confusion.

i-gQ6p4Rf-L.jpg


If you look at the same thing using a smaller aperture, you can see that the lines still don't come together (we're still out of focus), but they get much closer. Because the lens opening is smaller, the angles of the light rays are smaller and they don't spread out as much. The result is that the blurry area that represents the eye is smaller and so it is less out of focus.

i-K9RH74D-L.jpg


That's it in a nutshell. Smaller openings don't give the light as much room to spread out, so more of it is in focus. The same principle works for squinting (your eyelids act as a smaller aperture) and pinhole cameras (the tiny hole is like a tiny aperture).

While smaller apertures mean that you'll have more depth of field, they don't necessarily mean that you have sharper pictures. When your aperture gets smaller, some light rays start to spray in all directions in what is called diffraction. It's very much like covering the end of a hose with your finger and making the water spray everywhere. The smaller your lens opening, the more diffraction you will get and the softer your image will be, even the in focus parts of your image.

When your lens is wide open, it will have the least diffraction. On the other hand, because the light angles are so large, lots of other problems occur. These problems can result in shapes being distorted (straight lines that bend), colors being distorted (colored fringe in areas going quickly from light to dark), or other nasty stuff. For that reason, you'll get your best image quality somewhere between the aperture extremes. F/8 to F/11 is usually the sweet spot.

Just because your image quality is highest in the middle, don't think that is the way to make the best images. It is often better to trade some absolute sharpness for more depth of field or some distortion for less depth of field.
 
That's about the most straightforward illustration/description of the Circle of Confusion that I've ever seen.

Thanks.
 
Mark,
Thanks for putting up your post. It helps explain the process along with the others that have posted here. I think I have it just about figured out as to WHY smaller apertures deliver greater depth of field. Now if I can just put that knowledge to practice in the field....... :goodvibes
 


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