Car buying negotiating advice, please...

bemily

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Sep 19, 2002
Messages
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I am going to look at a car in the morning and havent bought a car from a dealer by myself before (now divorced, etc etc)...I am very capable, but not sure what to expect in terms of negotiating price..

The car is used and the asking price on website is $15,989.. The Kelley Blue Book value is $16,018...

Do I have any wiggle room to negotiate do you think? I am not sure what to expect...I have no problem negotiating, but want to be reasonable...

Thanks!
Sherry
 
I love to beat up dealers on price! I actually had my local dealer tell me to wait to buy from them again so he could make money! ( I'm sure he was joking but) depends on the car and if this is a used car at a new car dealer or at a used only dealer. The reason for this is a new car dealer that takes a car in trade has more wiggle room than used dealer that either bought it at an auction or outright from someone. I worked 9 years for a dealer as a tech but ate lunch with the sales guys a lot and learned their tricks! Go in and offer about $2500- 3000 less than asking, be prepared to walk out or say you will think about it and that you have another dealer to see too. ( and have a dealer name to give them, but not to many details ) I do this every time and have saved thousands off the sticker on new and used cars. Sometimes getting a good warranty thrown in is better than saving money. But don't get pushed into paying more than YOU feel comfortable paying. They usually pay only about half what blue book resale is , most dealers want to make about 3 to 5 grand on a used car sale. Good luck !!!
 
I love to beat up dealers on price! I actually had my local dealer tell me to wait to buy from them again so he could make money! ( I'm sure he was joking but) depends on the car and if this is a used car at a new car dealer or at a used only dealer. The reason for this is a new car dealer that takes a car in trade has more wiggle room than used dealer that either bought it at an auction or outright from someone. I worked 9 years for a dealer as a tech but ate lunch with the sales guys a lot and learned their tricks! Go in and offer about $2500- 3000 less than asking, be prepared to walk out or say you will think about it and that you have another dealer to see too. ( and have a dealer name to give them, but not to many details ) I do this every time and have saved thousands off the sticker on new and used cars. Sometimes getting a good warranty thrown in is better than saving money. But don't get pushed into paying more than YOU feel comfortable paying. They usually pay only about half what blue book resale is , most dealers want to make about 3 to 5 grand on a used car sale. Good luck !!!

:thumbsup2 ITA! Always be ready to head for the door! Also, watch the numbers very closely as their math is usually "off". I once caught a dealer making a $300 "error" by removing the $1000 they offered on a trade in. Really? Your math skills are so bad that you can't subtract $1000? This was for a new car though. They often have more "wiggle" room for new cars because of manufacturer-to-dealer incentives.
 
I'm a car salesman, and have been in the business for 12+ years. I have no idea what state you're in so this is strictly free advice. The amount of wiggle room usually differs depending on car make and these days fuel economy. These days there is less room on the cars that get the best mpg. And in most cases less room on a Honda or Toyota. Another factor can be, is it a certified per-owned? There is cost involved in that, but it also increases the value. The margins that the PP mentioned are rare these days with the Internet and all the info consumers have access to. For instance, our dealership uses a program that looks at all of the used cars for sale on the net and tells us where it should be priced.
 

I'm a car salesman, and have been in the business for 12+ years. I have no idea what state you're in so this is strictly free advice. The amount of wiggle room usually differs depending on car make and these days fuel economy. These days there is less room on the cars that get the best mpg. And in most cases less room on a Honda or Toyota. Another factor can be, is it a certified per-owned? There is cost involved in that, but it also increases the value. The margins that the PP mentioned are rare these days with the Internet and all the info consumers have access to. For instance, our dealership uses a program that looks at all of the used cars for sale on the net and tells us where it should be priced.
 
I am going to look at a car in the morning and havent bought a car from a dealer by myself before (now divorced, etc etc)...I am very capable, but not sure what to expect in terms of negotiating price..

The car is used and the asking price on website is $15,989.. The Kelley Blue Book value is $16,018...

Do I have any wiggle room to negotiate do you think? I am not sure what to expect...I have no problem negotiating, but want to be reasonable...

Thanks!
Sherry

Have you tried looking for the same year, make and model of the vehicle you are considering on an online classified website? To get an idea why they are selling like?
 
I am going to look at a car in the morning and havent bought a car from a dealer by myself before (now divorced, etc etc)...I am very capable, but not sure what to expect in terms of negotiating price..

The car is used and the asking price on website is $15,989.. The Kelley Blue Book value is $16,018...

Do I have any wiggle room to negotiate do you think? I am not sure what to expect...I have no problem negotiating, but want to be reasonable...

Thanks!
Sherry

What's the year, make and model, and trim level of this used car? How many miles? Is it "certified?" If not, what warranty (from the seller) does it have?)
 
Thanks so far everyone!

I am in Mass. It is a 2009 Tiguan with only 23K miles on it. It does not say "certified". It has had 1 owner and a clean carfax.. The website does not say anything about the warranty, so I am not sure about that yet..

The price seems excellent compared to what others are "asking" for them same car in Mass, but I just dont know much about "wiggle room" with used cars with dealers :-)...

Thank you, thank you!!!
 
Search the web for as much information you can about the car your interested in and try and find out the going price. The more information you have the better you will be able to negotiate. Craigslist can give you an idea what Private Parties are selling the car for.
 
OK, I found the car you're talking about.

It looks like it's being sold by a Kia dealer so they may provide a short-term warranty but it won't be VW "Certified." (The warranty coverage provided by VW's "Certified" program is substantial and can be better than the new car warranty.)

It is an S (lowest) trim level, 2-wheel-drive automatic (without a sunroof).

It looks like it has the "Roof Edge Spoiler," which was an option.

For reference, a 2013 with that configuration would cost about $23,800 (not including taxes, fees, etc.)

That's low mileage for a roughly 4 year old car.

It seems like a good price to me. If you find other comparable cars (trim, mileage) are a couple of thousand more, they may be "Certified."

You're looking at the AAA site, right? If so, it looks like you may be able to get an additional $300 off by printing some sort of certificate and showing your AAA card.
 
Thanks Brett :-) No, I wasnt looking at the AAA site, but I do have AAA, so I will check it out...

OK, I found the car you're talking about.

It looks like it's being sold by a Kia dealer so they may provide a short-term warranty but it won't be VW "Certified." (The warranty coverage provided by VW's "Certified" program is substantial and can be better than the new car warranty.)

It is an S (lowest) trim level, 2-wheel-drive automatic (without a sunroof).

It looks like it has the "Roof Edge Spoiler," which was an option.

For reference, a 2013 with that configuration would cost about $23,800 (not including taxes, fees, etc.)

That's low mileage for a roughly 4 year old car.

It seems like a good price to me. If you find other comparable cars (trim, mileage) are a couple of thousand more, they may be "Certified."

You're looking at the AAA site, right? If so, it looks like you may be able to get an additional $300 off by printing some sort of certificate and showing your AAA card.
 
Thanks Brett :-) No, I wasnt looking at the AAA site, but I do have AAA, so I will check it out...

Go to the car buying service on the AAA web site. You can price new cars (a service I HIGHLY recommend for someone buying new) or you can look for used cars. For the used cars, they show a histogram showing the range of prices for similar cars and where the price of the car you're looking at falls on that graph. How accurate it is, I don't know But this car at this price is so far to the left, you don't have to worry about getting ripped off even if you don't negotiate -- so long as there isn't something wrong with the car. (Carfax is not perfect.)

Good luck!
 
Go to the car buying service on the AAA web site. You can price new cars (a service I HIGHLY recommend for someone buying new) or you can look for used cars. For the used cars, they show a histogram showing the range of prices for similar cars and where the price of the car you're looking at falls on that graph. How accurate it is, I don't know But this car at this price is so far to the left, you don't have to worry about getting ripped off even if you don't negotiate -- so long as there isn't something wrong with the car. (Carfax is not perfect.)

Good luck!

Thanks Brett..I truly appreciate it.. I know it's a great price if everything is good with the car, but figured the dealer would have at least a little wiggle room :-). I'll find and print that coupon out as well...
 
I love to beat up dealers on price!

It's so much easier to buy a car these days. In the old days, haggling required you to spend all day at the dealership getting beat up by high pressure sales tactics. Haggling in the 21st century allows you haggle via text messages to multiple dealers and pit them against each other for your business. And you can do it from the comfort of your home or office. Love it.
 
The one thing I would add to all of the posts above would be to go into the negotiations knowing what you are comfortable paying for the car and stick to that (even if it means walking away).

I recently purchased a new mini-van and before I even talked to a dealer I had worked out what I was comfortable paying for the car and went to the dealer with that number written down in my wallet. Of course I wanted to get below that number (which happily I did) but no matter what I was not going to go above that number. The hardest part of the negotiation is walking away when you cannot reach a deal you are comfortable with.
 
Hi...I just want to point out something that we are being watchful of as we used car shop...any vehicles with flood damage :scared: going back to hurricane Sandy and all the recent flooding across the country, it is a reasonable concern so be aware!
Good luck on your negotiating and enjoy your future new ride! :thumbsup2
 
And don't be afraid to walk out. I have found that many times the sales rep will follow me out the door and offer me a better price. Or sometimes they call the next day and come in with the price I want (or at least closer to it).

Regardless, being able to walk away is key, esp if you have a hard ceiling price and can't go any higher.

And if you are buying b/c you are replacing a wrecked car, it is good to go in with a copy of your settlement from the ins co. I have a friend who got t-boned and the car was totaled. She found a car she wanted, but it was more than what she coul pay. She ended up showing the sales rep the settlement and told him she had to have the car ON THE ROAD (meaning total price including sales tax, title, license, etc) at that price. She got the call the next day and brought it home that night.
 
Hi...I just want to point out something that we are being watchful of as we used car shop...any vehicles with flood damage :scared: going back to hurricane Sandy and all the recent flooding across the country, it is a reasonable concern so be aware!
Good luck on your negotiating and enjoy your future new ride! :thumbsup2

I laugh at the cars for sale on Ebay with "salvage" title. If the insurance company determined it was cheaper to pay the owner the value of the car, instead of fix it, I sure don't want THAT car. Love it when the description says "minor damage". If it's minor, and it's a $25,000 Prius, they aren't doing to total it out. Lots and lots of Toyotas, Honda's Lexus' and Nissans out there on Ebay with salvage title.
 
CAR BUYING RULES:

1) NEVER mention a monthly payment goal.
. . . this is a license to steal for the salesman
. . . they will always find a way to meet your payment
. . . especially when they could have sold for much less
2) Always have them give you the price for your trade UPFRONT
. . . have them estimate it before your select a car you like
. . . many adjust the car trade price based upon your new car markup
. . . get the trade price, or walk to another dealer
3) Research the car on the web
. . . look it up in KBB.Com and Edmunds.com
. . . know the invoice and the average sales prices
. . . a good price is 2%-3% over invoice
. . . the volume dealer gets 5% of the invoice back, plus bonus money
. . . do a Google search for incentives on your car, this could be THOUSANDS
4) If you find two cars you like, pick on that has been on the lot a while
. . . 60-90 days on the lot means they are paying interest on the car
. . . they want it move it FAST
. . . many times, there is a bonus to the salesman to sell it
. . . you might get some of that bonus if you bargain tough
5) Go on the last Tuesday of the month
. . . Tuesday are terrible car sales days with few buyers
. . . at the end of the month there are sales to make for quota or bonus
. . . go 1-hour before closing and talk past closing
. . . the sales people Neill not want a good prospect to leave the lot
. . . my wife saved and additional $2,300 by doing this
6) Read articles
. . . Edmunds.com has a series of articles about car dealer tricks
. . . remember, they do this every day
. . . you do it once every few years
. . . they have the advantage!
7) If you don't get your price, be prepared to walk away!
. . . nothing gets there attention like you getting up to walk
. . . the will do everything to keep you there
. . . but, do fall for prices you don't like
. . . better to walk than pay too much

NOTE: For leasing, do not mention a monthly payment. Plus, ask these
questions. If the dealer hems-and-haws, run like crazy. They are trying
to fool you and hide hidden costs and profits.
. . . what is the sales price of the vehicle
. . . . . . some hide the sales price
. . . . . . some charge sticker or above
. . . what is the residual value of the car at the end of the lease
. . . . . . some cut the value to get more interest and higher payments
. . . . . . this can add THOUSANDS in profit, even on a cheap car
. . . . . . I saw a Dodge Dart residual at 1/2 after three year lease
. . . . . . I know of no new car that depreciates 0% in three years
. . . what is the interest rate
. . . . . . money costs money
. . . . . . most leasing people bury the interest rate
. . . . . . some lease interest rates are as high as 22% !
 















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