Back from London/Edinburgh trip...

kristilew

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Jan 11, 2008
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We did this one on our own, Mainly DD and myself, as it was a work trip for hubby. Lots of fun. The cold weather wasn't as bad as it's been in the past month from what I understand, and the huge upside was that we had every tourist attraction literally to ourselves. Breezing in to the see the Crown Jewels at the Tower of London was like racing through the queueing area at Splash Mountain on an extra magic morning.

I haven't uploaded my photos yet, but here's what we did for the detail-junkies:

Museum of London - this was a great start to the trip, it gave a wonderful history lesson on the city from prehistoric times to the present, in an easy-to-follow format.

St. Paul's - this was only a few blocks from the M of L, so we wandered over afterward and were able to sit in on an Evensong service - beautiful!

Platform 9 3/4 at King's Cross - our Harry Potter fan loved this, but if you're heading there soon, be warned, the area is under renovation, and just now it's really only a photo of a brick wall covering a construction barrier, with the luggage trolley embedded in it. Looks ok in the photos but definitely not as cool as when it was the actual brick wall. Which I assume will be back eventually.

British Museum - we ended up here pretty much all day on the Sunday for three reasons. One, it is huge and really awesome. Two, DH is a compulsive list-checker so we had to see each item on the History of the World in 100 Objects list; and Three, DD is an Egypt nut and they had a special, very involved, exhibit on the Book of the Dead. We could spend several more days and still have things left to see. The bus ride from Paddington Station to the museum was very scenic. We were in the front on top of a double decker bus, so had a wonderful view.

btw: I used the "Travel Deluxe" app for iphone that told me the best route to get from anywhere to anywhere, using trains, tube, bus, and/or walking. Anyone who is doing any exploring on their own and has an app-friendly phone should check it out. Saved us tons of figuring out on our own, and was always right, down to the minute of arrival.

Tower of London - awesome, and we were able to see soooo much because of no one else being there.

Then we walked through various neighborhoods, ending up at the Millenium Bridge to cross over to the Tate Modern. (Another cool HP scene, this is the bridge that gets spectacularly destroyed at the start of HP #6) Tate Modern is full of really modern art. Not early twentieth century or art deco modern art. More the kind of art that makes you go, "hmmm, if I hadn't cleaned up that paint I spilled on the drop cloth, I could have sold it as 'The Feast of Bacchus' and made enough to fill the college fund. Darn!"

Hampton Court Palace - I'm a huge fan of all Henry VIII history stuff, so this was awesome for me. It also had a lot pertaining to William and Mary. Beautiful, wonderful grounds, and again, it was so cool to be the only two people there. As we were staying in Windsor, I hired a driver to take us and pick us up that day. If you stay in London, it's an easy train ride from Waterloo station.

Then we were off to Edinburgh. Loved it! Our hotel here was exactly in the center of the Royal Mile, so no time was lost to travel. We just walked for a few minutes and were wherever we wanted to be.

Edinburgh Castle - A nicely led tour gave us a lot of history here. It's less restored than Hampton Court was, but still plenty to see, including Scotland's crown jewels and the National War Memorial (very moving.) If you've ever been to the castle in Salzburg, this is what it reminded me of the most.

St. Giles Cathedral - we're Presbyterian, so this is pretty much our mother-ship. We all went weak-kneed at seeing the actual Covenant from the 1600s. Even if that is meaningless to you, it's still a beautiful building with a lot of history.

Camera Obscura/The World of Illusion - this looks like a tacky tourist trap but may have been the 13-year-old's favorite thing on the whole trip. Right next to the Castle, the actual camera obscura is a couple hundred years old and does an amazing job of projecting its reflections of the city down onto the large white dish set up to catch them. We were there on a clear, bright day and were able to see about 5 miles all around. It helped, again, that DD and I were the only people in the room with the operator. She really took her time to give us a very detailed "tour" of the city, with interesting anecdotes about everything we were seeing, plus she let DD use little white cards to "scoop up" the people walking and the cars. If you did this on a summer day with a full room of whiny kids, it probably would not be quite so great. The rest of the building is devoted to the kind of fun "sciencey" interactive exhibits that seem to be fading away from science museums these days.

Holyrood Palace - this is still a working Palace, where the Queen stays in Scotland. The audio tour was great, and in addition to the rooms currently used for entertaining, we got to see the preserved areas used by Mary Queen of Scotts and Lord Darnley. This includeded the rooms in which Rizzio was murdered, and a detailed account of the incident was part of the tour.

Museum of Childhood - small, but interesting. Basically examples of toys and other kid-related items from the early 1800s to the 1970s.

Walter Scott Monument - there are 287 increasingly tiny spiral steps to the top of this thing. The views were awesome.

Museum of Scotland - prehistory to the present, anything to do with Scotland was displayed here, and displayed well within a lot of context.

National Gallery - this relatively small art museum was very well-done. The rooms were comfortable and just the right size. Since we were there in January, we got to see the collection of Turner watercolors that were bequeathed on the condition that they only be shown during that month.

Royal Yacht Britannia - we took another double-decker down the water front to see check out this ship. Again, what a great way to get a feel for a lot of the city. The yacht is shown just as the royal family used it up until it was decommissioned in 1997. Really fascinating, and left DD asking how exactly one becomes a queen...

And then it was time to come home, and back to real life. Which I am obviously avoiding by reliving my lovely trip here. I'll put up some pictures in the next couple of days. And happy to answer any questions if I can...
 
Thanks for sharing, and thanks for offering to post the photos. This type of trip is on my wife's MUST DO list, as she has several writer friends in London. Your information is incredibly helpful, and will probably cost me a fortune because when she reads it, she'll want to make the trip this year. If I may ask, any problems or recommendations using the iphone in Great Britain? How many days were you there? Thanks again for the great post.
 
Thanks for sharing, and thanks for offering to post the photos. This type of trip is on my wife's MUST DO list, as she has several writer friends in London. Your information is incredibly helpful, and will probably cost me a fortune because when she reads it, she'll want to make the trip this year. If I may ask, any problems or recommendations using the iphone in Great Britain? How many days were you there? Thanks again for the great post.


The only problelm with the iPhone is that I'm an idiot and didn't turn off my "data roaming" when I was using wireless. So the first few days, I burned through the 20 mb plan that I had added for the time I was there. Fortunately, At&t had texted me when I got to London with a number to call if I had any questions and of course they were more than happy to bump me up to the next level plan. 3G service was very good, and the "call assist" feature on iPhone meant I never had to figure out any numbers to add on when I wanted to call my husband (on his American cell) or anyone in-country. Texts went through with no issues as well.

We flew overnight on a Friday, arriving Saturday morning, and flew back all day on the next Sunday, so we had 8 touring days, counting the first one. The 3 and 1/2 days in Edinburgh were plenty, as we really did everything we wanted to do there. If I go back, it will be to venture out into other areas of the country.

London, on the other hand, we barely scratched the surface of what we wanted to do. This was partly due to the time lost to traveling in from Windsor - about an hour and half total from our hotel to whatever our first attraction was. Also, things close early in the winter, often as early as 4 pm. However, I felt this was more than compensated for by the complete lack of lines, crowds, or really any other tourists at all. What we did do, we did indepth. Finally, there's just a whole lot to see there, and my list for "next time" is long!
 
kristilew! Thanks for the Report! I'm looking forward to the photos!

I am definitely going to be stealing some of these ideas for before my K&L trip! I have a couple of days in Winchester & southern England, and then 3 days in London. I'm staying in a hotel that I believe is near Waterloo Station. So pretty centrally located.

Where is the Camera Obscura located? I've been to the one in Santa Monica, CA. I did not make it to the one in Northern CA. I'd love to check out the UK one!

Did they give any indication when Platform 9 3/4 might be "done"? I was hoping to check that out end of August...

Do you need 3G to use the "Travel Deluxe" app? I have an iPod touch, and it can use the smartphone apps, but obviously needs a WiFi hot spot.

What airline did you fly? I've had so many bad experiences lately, I guess I'm in a "least horrible" mode rather than looking for "the best". Prices are starting to creep up, so I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet & purchase my airfare soon.

Sounds like you had a great time!

Sayhello
 

Kristilew,
Thanks for the great report, we are excited about our trip in June and have been trying to decide what to do while in London

I am also interested in the IPod touch question that sayhello had, I didn't even think about our IPod touch.

Thanks,
Denise
 
You could certainly use the travel app on your itouch. You would just have to plan ahead a little and check your routes when you had wireless. (or, duck into a Starbucks) I did this in the week before the trip for journeys I knew we wanted to make, and also to see if a particular journey was even feasible. You could just make a note, on your touch or on paper, of the route you chose.

The Camera Obscura was in Edinburgh. SayHello, I don't know if your UK travels will take you that far!

We flew USAir and had a very pleasant experience both ways. I was shocked.
 
You could certainly use the travel app on your itouch. You would just have to plan ahead a little and check your routes when you had wireless. (or, duck into a Starbucks) I did this in the week before the trip for journeys I knew we wanted to make, and also to see if a particular journey was even feasible. You could just make a note, on your touch or on paper, of the route you chose.

The Camera Obscura was in Edinburgh. SayHello, I don't know if your UK travels will take you that far!

We flew USAir and had a very pleasant experience both ways. I was shocked.
Thanks, kristilew. I'll definitely check out that app!

And no, I doubt I'll make it all the way to Edinburgh. Next trip! :)

USAir, eh? I had a pretty bad experience with them in Philly last month, but they definitely have the best itinerary. And I've not experienced them changing flights as much as Delta has (which has the next best itinerary, but I really, REALLY don't want to fly). The tickets are SO much more expensive than I expected them to be. So far, they've been creeping up, with no sign of getting any cheaper. I may just have to bite the bullet & buy them... sigh.

Thanks for all the info! I'll take any suggestions you have, on places to eat or whatever!

Sayhello
 
Thanks, kristilew. I'll definitely check out that app!

And no, I doubt I'll make it all the way to Edinburgh. Next trip! :)

USAir, eh? I had a pretty bad experience with them in Philly last month, but they definitely have the best itinerary. And I've not experienced them changing flights as much as Delta has (which has the next best itinerary, but I really, REALLY don't want to fly). The tickets are SO much more expensive than I expected them to be. So far, they've been creeping up, with no sign of getting any cheaper. I may just have to bite the bullet & buy them... sigh.

Thanks for all the info! I'll take any suggestions you have, on places to eat or whatever!

Sayhello

I've been having a hard time with air prices lately too. We are going to St. John in April and had been waiting to book until about 3 months out, which is usually when you can get a decent price. Instead, our tickets more than doubled from when we first checked airfares (and decided we could afford the trip.) And as I spent a day clicking around looking for the best of the new prices, I watched them rise again. It was awful. :sick: So yes, book soon. Apparently the airline CEOs all want new houses. Or rather, want us to buy them new houses!

As for where to eat....I'm probably not the best one to advise you. The only dinner we ate in London proper was at an Italian restaurant. This was because we stumbled out of the British Museum and into a pub across the street, but their kitchen wasn't open yet. So I pulled up my AroundMe app and it led us around the corner to this other restaurant. The food was great, but nothing about the experience was remotely "Londony." In fact, we ended up eating Italian food several more times on the trip. Finally, on the last day, as DH polished off his pizza with haggis :scared1: on it, we got into a long conversation with the owner of our most recent Italian restaurant and asked him how on earth England and Scotland had attracted so many great chefs from Italy. He agreed it certainly wasn't the climate, and told us a romantic story about coming to Edinburgh for one day while traveling Europe. He met the woman who would be his wife, and that was it. He's still there 33 years later. :love:

Anyway, we ended up eating at a French Restaurant, a Japanese restaurant, and a few pubs in Windsor and Edinburgh. Nothing special. Though the Japanese place is a chain called Wagamama and I believe they have a couple in London. I know you have certain food restrictions. This would be a great place for you as they stress simple, natural ingredients and can tailor every single dish any way you'd like it. I got a fabulous bowl of noodles in broth, with grilled chicken slices laid over the top.

DD and I ate at the cafes at both the Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace and both were really very good. This was traditional British food. I got a meat pie with parsnips at one, and a "bacon roll" at the other (really just a ham sandwich, but one elevated by both the meat and the fresh bread.) DD got endless plates of fish-n-chips, which she loved. They were all great, with big, flaky, golden-crusted filets of hake or cod.

As for any other suggestions - the websites for all the places we went were really quite helpful. Historical Royal Palaces http://www.hrp.org.uk/Default.aspx runs several of the "biggies," including Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace. Their websites were a treasure trove of information to educate and help us plan.

Also, I don't know if you've had much occasion to think about how you want to deal with all the coins that are such a big part of the currency over there. DH gave me a coin holder like the one he has used for years, and it was great. It looks like this http://www.walletgear.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=466&osCsid=e19e924cba568fb8af09d0ca7f45680e, though ours don't have the snap. You can shake the coins out into the tray that is created when you open it, and pick through them to find what you need. I found it really helpful, as we paid cash for most things.

I hope this helps! Trotting off to deal with jet lag now. Pictures tomorrow!
 
So here are a few London pictures. Each one shows something I really liked about the city: namely, that wherever we looked, we saw a mix of old and new side-by-side.

This is part of the old London Wall, dating back to Roman times. The Museum of London is situated along part of this wall.


A view from the Tower of London.


This Victorian Lamppost is seen between the recreated Globe Theater on one side, and the Tate Modern and Millenium Bridge on the other.



Photobucket was giving me issues, so I'm using a new photohost. The jpg listing on the images is kind of annoying. I'll work on removing it.

Also showing up way to small to show what I'm talking about. Back to the drawing board... Fixed it thanks to SayHello!
 
Photobucket was giving me issues, so I'm using a new photohost. The jpg listing on the images is kind of annoying. I'll work on removing it.

Also showing up way to small to show what I'm talking about. Back to the drawing board...
The small images are just thumbnails. If you click on them, they take you to a larger image with no jpg information on them.

Cool pictures. I really like the juxtaposition of old & new that you see in London, also. There was a lot of that in Rome, too.

OMG, they have a pickle-shaped building in London, too? The one in Barcelona is very phallic-looking. :eek: I just don't "get" them!

More!

Sayhello

ETA: It looks like you're just using the "wrong" link. What you used was this:

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2666/bigcamerauk025.th.jpg

If you click through to the actual picture, it's link is:

http://img138.imageshack.us/i/bigcamerauk025.jpg/

Try the second one. I tried embedding it here, but I'm on my work PC, and it doesn't always display pictures. Let's try it anyways, and you can tell me if it worked (it's not displaying for me):

bigcamerauk025.jpg


ETA #2 AHA! I figured it out! (Go me! :woohoo:) Just take the ".th" out of the first link! (just before the .jpg) That took care of it!

Use:

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2666/bigcamerauk025.jpg


bigcamerauk025.jpg
 
OMG, you rock, SayHello! I will add the rest now... Thanks!:banana:

OH, and we called that building the Easter Egg!
 
More pictures:

We enjoyed our hotel in Windsor, partly because it was across the street from the Castle so we often saw & heard these guys:



We had a half hour train "layover" at Waterloo Station one evening, and ran up onto Waterloo bridge. DD snapped this image with her bloggie. It's a little blurry but I think it adds to the atmosphere.



And here's the obligatory platform 9 3/4 shot:



Pretty Tower Bridge. I love how on the grey day, this looks like a photoshopped black and white image.

 
This may have been my favorite day. I was in "Tudors" heaven!

We were met at the Hampton Court entrance by King Henry VIII's "beasts." We later learned that many of these statues, which were used all over the palace as standard bearers and decorative trim, ended up in British pubs. Often without the owners or patrons even knowing what they originally had been!




This is a picture of Base Court at Hampton Court Palace, where visiting nobility would be greeted. The windows overlooking it were mostly guest rooms. You can really see what I mean about "no crowds" in this shot!




There were beautiful interior courtyards




Costumed interpreters really set the stage





The outside grounds were gorgeous, with many sunken gardens like this one

 
Two more London pictures.

St. Paul's at night...




And the Rosetta stone in the British museum






And on to Scotland...

Part of The Royal Mile (the road between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, down which kings would process to be crowned, back in the day.)




Edinburgh Castle in the evening.





And another view by day (it kind of dominates the city. We took a ton of pictures of the Castle from every vantage point. Kind of wondering what to do with them now :rolleyes1)


This picture shows again how much we had the attractions to ourselves. That is DD on her way in, and the gatekeeper, with no one else around.


There were a lot of "tartan and tat" shops that lent a tacky tourist air to the main areas. They all played canned bagpipe music, which got to be a bit much after awhile, but in between the "tat" you could also purchase real kilts and fine Scottish wool products.

 
I hope this hasn't been too many pictures! Here's the last of them, from Scotland again...


An example of the cute "sciencey" exhibits at the World of Illusions was one of those walls with lights shining on it that lets you make colored shadows.





One of the apps we'd downloaded, Edinburgh Cool Places, suggested we check out this cheesemonger shop. It was awesome and they gave free samples! (Of course, we bought some too.) Once we got off the Royal Mile, even just a block off, there were far more quaint little shops like this than the tourist stuff.






And that's about it. I've got a lot more "street scene" and scenery shots of Edinburgh, but not sure how interested anyone is in that, since it's not also an ABD spot. Thanks for letting me share!
 
Wow! I love your pictures. We are definitely going to Hampton Court Palace when we are in London in July. I like that Henry VII stuff, too! Thanks for sharing your experiences.
 
OMG, you rock, SayHello! I will add the rest now... Thanks!:banana:

OH, and we called that building the Easter Egg!
You are quite welcome, kristilew! :goodvibes

I actually thought the building in Barcelona looked like a gherkin (besides looking like a phallus) but I saw a bit about it on one of those Travel Channel "10 Most Awesome..." shows, where it was an awesome building, and apparently it was meant to look to look like a bullet. Whatever, I still think they're really bizarre!

Great photos! That *is* really cool how the blue on Tower Bridge stands out like that on a cloudy day. It looks fake. Very interesting!

It's really amazing how *empty* every place really is. I mean, I understand it's the off season, but *WOW*, that's really off! Not that I'd be complaining!

Hampton Court Palace looks really neat, and is definitely added to my itinerary! Your pictures of Edinburgh make me wish I had time for a jaunt up to Scotland, too (I did that when I was last in the UK, in 1979! :eek:) Maybe next time (and hopefully it won't be 32 years before next time!)

Thanks for sharing your pictures. Personally, I'll happily view any & all pictures you want to post! :yay:

Sayhello
 
great pictures!!!
London is one of my favorite places in the world...
i haven't yet made it to Edinburgh....i keep saying i will, but then i run out of time....

where did you stay in Edinburgh! I understand that you liked the location, but did you also like the hotel itself?
 
great pictures!!!
London is one of my favorite places in the world...
i haven't yet made it to Edinburgh....i keep saying i will, but then i run out of time....

where did you stay in Edinburgh! I understand that you liked the location, but did you also like the hotel itself?

We stayed at the Barcelo Carlton hotel, which was on North Bridge, right at the corner of the Royal Mile. I liked the location more than the hotel itself, although the hotel was perfectly fine.

The room was very spacious, which I take to be rather unusual in a UK hotel room. It was clean-ish, but not notably clean. The bathroom was pretty, but did not have a good shower at all.

The biggest issue we had was that very few people who worked in the hotel spoke anything other than Spanish. This resulted in many mixups, from trying to request enough towels each day (unsuccessfully) to the wrong order at every breakfast and bar stop (breakfast was included in our fee, and half an hour of wireless access, otherwise very expensive, was included with a bar purchase.) On the other hand, the front desk staff was Scottish, and like everyone else we encountered in the city, genuinely the kindest, friendliest, most caring people we've ever encountered. We had to leave very very early on our final day, and they had bag brunches made up for us to take with us to the airport.

I would stay there again, but only after looking around on tripadvisor to see if there was a better option with just as good a location.
 
We stayed at the Barcelo Carlton hotel, which was on North Bridge, right at the corner of the Royal Mile. I liked the location more than the hotel itself, although the hotel was perfectly fine.

The room was very spacious, which I take to be rather unusual in a UK hotel room. It was clean-ish, but not notably clean. The bathroom was pretty, but did not have a good shower at all.

The biggest issue we had was that very few people who worked in the hotel spoke anything other than Spanish. This resulted in many mixups, from trying to request enough towels each day (unsuccessfully) to the wrong order at every breakfast and bar stop (breakfast was included in our fee, and half an hour of wireless access, otherwise very expensive, was included with a bar purchase.) On the other hand, the front desk staff was Scottish, and like everyone else we encountered in the city, genuinely the kindest, friendliest, most caring people we've ever encountered. We had to leave very very early on our final day, and they had bag brunches made up for us to take with us to the airport.

I would stay there again, but only after looking around on tripadvisor to see if there was a better option with just as good a location.
Spanish??? :confused: How odd!

Sayhello
 














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