Another filter question thread

[mikegood2]

Not sure why I have waited (procrastinated) so long, but its time that I pick up a Polarizing filter and an ND filter for my trip to WDW next month. After reading a number of threads I though I had a decent enough understanding to order my filters, but when I started looking I become more confused.

The largest lens I own is 67mm. So my plan is to pick up the 67mm versions of the filters and buy step down rings so I can use them on my 58mm and 52mm lens. Does that sound like a good plan.

What is the difference between a linear and circular polarizer? 20 years ago when I had my film photography classes I remember the polarizing filter as single evenly coated filter and a circular polarizer as more of a "specialty" filter. Am I just going crazy? Are circular polarizers what people are using with dslr's?

What would you suggest for my first ND filter? A .3, .6, .9 or all three. I don't know how much I will use it, so is there a common "starter" darkness? I also came across a Fader ND Adjustable Variable Filters are they another option, or am I better off going with a specific "darkness"?

I don't want to go on the cheap, but I don't want to break the bank. I'd like to keep each filter under $100, probably in the $50 - $100 range. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mamaCta]

A circular polarizer has gradient and turns in the housing so that you can adjust for light and camera angles.

I ordered a variable ND filter so that I don't have to buy multiples and go through the hassle of switching them.

 

[photo_chick]

You need circular polarizers to meter and AF correctly with digital cameras. Older film cameras (pre 80's or older) worked differently and could use linear polarizers with no problems.

A circular polarizer works the way it does in the housing because it's not just one plate like a linear polarizer. But you only need to turn one plate to adjust to the angle of the light.

 

[boBQuincy]

The issue is with beam splitters, which most dSLRs use for the focus sensor and maybe the light meter. Most (if not all) mirrorless cameras do not need a circular polarizer but for the extra $$$ it may be worthwhile since we don't know what our next camera will require. If you are unsure about your camera then by all means get the circular version.

 

[photo_chick]

The issue is with beam splitters, which most dSLRs use for the focus sensor and maybe the light meter. Most (if not all) mirrorless cameras do not need a circular polarizer but for the extra $$$ it may be worthwhile since we don't know what our next camera will require. If you are unsure about your camera then by all means get the circular version.

I didn't know mirrorless weren't affected the same way. That's what I love about this board. Always learning something new!

 

[mikegood2]

The issue is with beam splitters, which most dSLRs use for the focus sensor and maybe the light meter. Most (if not all) mirrorless cameras do not need a circular polarizer but for the extra $$$ it may be worthwhile since we don't know what our next camera will require. If you are unsure about your camera then by all means get the circular version.

Thanks Bob, I also wasn't aware of that. I believe slr's were the same way, I think that's why I remember using a linear polarizer back in the day. It would be nice if more dslr's or mirrorless cameras (believe a few do) would include the filters in the camera. It would be nice to just push a switch or button to add the filter and turn it off when you don't. I definitely will go with a circular polarizer was just wondering why the circular polarizers replaced the linear for dslr's.

Thanks for the responses all. Probably looking at a B&W or Hoya, any suggestions?

Also any suggestions for a good general purpose ND filter? Again, I definitely want to keep it under $100, closer to $50 would be better. It doesn't need to be pro quality and I'm aware under $100 probably are not, but give me something that will not degrade my image quality. Possibly shoot some fireworks with of stop the camera done on a very bright day.

 

[boBQuincy]

Also any suggestions for a good general purpose ND filter? Again, I definitely want to keep it under $100, closer to $50 would be better. It doesn't need to be pro quality and I'm aware under $100 probably are not, but give me something that will not degrade my image quality. Possibly shoot some fireworks with of stop the camera done on a very bright day.

Go big! It depends on your primary usage though.
The "f/16" rule says our basic daylight exposure is about 1/100 @ f/16 for the lowest ISO of most cameras. A 3 stop ND will take this to about 1/15, not enough for much blur in daylight. 6 stops takes this to 1/2 second, getting better.
For fireworks we might use f/16 so 3 stops moves this to f/5.6, or from 2-3 seconds to 15-24 seconds, here the 3 stop ND works better. A 6 stop ND that gives f/5.6 *and* a long exposure is better yet.

While on the subject, by f/16 our lenses are well on the downward side of sharpness due to diffraction. It is better with full frame, worse with micro 4/3, sensor size matters here.

 

[mikegood2]

Go big! It depends on your primary usage though.
The "f/16" rule says our basic daylight exposure is about 1/100 @ f/16 for the lowest ISO of most cameras. A 3 stop ND will take this to about 1/15, not enough for much blur in daylight. 6 stops takes this to 1/2 second, getting better.
For fireworks we might use f/16 so 3 stops moves this to f/5.6, or from 2-3 seconds to 15-24 seconds, here the 3 stop ND works better. A 6 stop ND that gives f/5.6 *and* a long exposure is better yet.

While on the subject, by f/16 our lenses are well on the downward side of sharpness due to diffraction. It is better with full frame, worse with micro 4/3, sensor size matters here.

Thanks Bob, like usual your posts are very informative!

I just order some highly rated inexpensive step down rings and replacement lens caps for all my lenses (just in case ). Since they were all coming from the same place with free shipping I picked up a cheap $15 ND2, ND4, ND8 set also. I know it is probably cheaper quality, but for that price I can try them out and get a feel for them. If I find a use for ND filters, I know I should, I'll buy a nicer set or individual filters.

 

[mikegood2]

I think I'm planing on ordering a circular polarizer today and believe I've narrowed my choices down to 3. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

B+W Kaesemann CP multi-Resistant Coating for just over $100

Hoya HD (8 layer Multi-Coated) for around $80

Hoya PRO1 (multi coated, low profile) for around $70