Advice on cruising photos

deltadinah

Mouseketeer
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
168
As a total amateur I have a Nikon D3100 with a kit lens, nikkor 50mm 1.8f lens and Sigma 30mm 1.4 lens and am wondering which would be more useful on a cruise. I am not keen on taking all three and I do not use a tripod. I am wondering in particular about the dining room and if the Sigma would be overkill for the amount of light or if the kit lens is not enough. Any help would be appreciated. Would the Sigma be better for night shots outside?:confused:
 
As a total amateur I have a Nikon D3100 with a kit lens, nikkor 50mm 1.8f lens and Sigma 30mm 1.4 lens and am wondering which would be more useful on a cruise. I am not keen on taking all three and I do not use a tripod. I am wondering in particular about the dining room and if the Sigma would be overkill for the amount of light or if the kit lens is not enough. Any help would be appreciated. Would the Sigma be better for night shots outside?:confused:

I was on a Bahamas / Florida cruise two months ago and took a Canon 60D and different lens and ended up using a Tamron 17-50 2.8 and 55-250IS for 99% of the pics. For the dining room pics I used a bounced flash. If you don't care about taking photos of the stage show entertainment your setup will work fine. I found the 55-250IS useful for the theater shows and a few outside pics from the ship. I don't know about the Nikon equivalent but the Canon 55-250 is pocket size, lightweight and cheap ($100)
And those $8 6" telescoping folding walmart tripods come in handy if you like those night time ship shots and want to pack light


some random shots (out of 150)

Canon 55-250IS
ISO 5000
250mm

15912329891_e24653ecd3_b.jpg



Tamron 17-50
(long exposure on a Targus folding tripod)

15730847118_8a2719659d_b.jpg


Tamron 17-50

15307150633_3f733db462_b.jpg


Canon 55-250IS
ISO 5000
200mm


15732421057_0cfcf0615c_b.jpg
 
As a total amateur I have a Nikon D3100 with a kit lens, nikkor 50mm 1.8f lens and Sigma 30mm 1.4 lens and am wondering which would be more useful on a cruise. I am not keen on taking all three and I do not use a tripod. I am wondering in particular about the dining room and if the Sigma would be overkill for the amount of light or if the kit lens is not enough. Any help would be appreciated. Would the Sigma be better for night shots outside?:confused:

Truthfully, those are all small lightweight lenses, and I would bring them all. There is a reason dSLRs are "interchangeable" lens cameras... because different situations call for different lenses.

But if you really only want to bring one lens, then you need to decide on your shooting style and what you want to capture.

On the Nikon D3100, the 18-55 covers a range of 27-82mm. So it goes from semi-wide to semi-telephoto. Won't let you capture super wide, nor super telephoto, but it covers a nice middle ground.

The 50/1.8 will be much more useful for lower light shots. It's also a sharper overall lens. But it is equivalent to 75mm... so it's a short telephoto. There will be times when you feel cramped, you won't be able to capture your subject without backing up, and there may not be enough room to back up. On the other hand, many people like the 75mm perspective... it's very flattering for portraits. Of course, you won't be able to capture any wide shots.

The 30/1.4 will also be sharper than the kit lens. Obviously, it is your best bet for low light. It's the equivalent of 45mm -- which is basically when your eyes normally take in. So this is often considered a "normal" view. In that sense, it can be the most useful overall focal length. You'll capture the same view that you see with your eyes. Of course, you still won't be able to get very wide shots, nor will you get any telephoto reach. It's not super flattering for portraits. Even with the 1.4 aperture, it is hard to create much background blur with a 30mm, if that's something you wanted to do.

So decide how you shoot, what you want to capture, and that allows you to choose your lens. I go through the same type of self-debate when I travel, but it's to get my kit down to 3-4 lenses. (For example, for my Alaska cruise, I'll pick between my 18-35, 24-85, 50/1.8, 105/2.8, 70-200/4, and hopefully 300/4 which I'll own or rent, plus teleconverters... Since I shoot full frame, I suspect I'll go with the 18-35, the 300/4 (and teleconverters), and 1 other, but difficult to choose the third.. something that lets me shoot some portraits.. so maybe the 24-85, 105 or 70-200... great, I've narrowed it from 4 to 3 and still can't decide).
 
Thanks to both of you for your input. Beautiful photos bob100 and although I am learning to live without telephoto, I think I should look into a folding tripod. I definitely am bringing the 18-55 as it is a mid-range as you as you say havoc315. I had thought to leave out the 50/1.8 as it is similar to the farthest range of the kit lens even though it takes a much sharper picture. I would still have the 30/1.4 which I think should be useful in many situations. But then you reminded me of the bokeh and the portrait capabilities of the 50 and now I think I should take all 3 - they are small:). I don't have to carry all 3 at once (except on the plane lol). One thing though is that I sometimes have trouble with the 30 being too bright. As a beginner, it is obviously me. Should I perhaps be shooting on Aperture Priority. I don't often have time to play with full manual as it takes too much time for me to think in a non-static situation. Good luck with your decision havoc, we're lucky to have such problems, right?
 

One thing though is that I sometimes have trouble with the 30 being too bright. As a beginner, it is obviously me. Should I perhaps be shooting on Aperture Priority. I don't often have time to play with full manual as it takes too much time for me to think in a non-static situation. Good luck with your decision havoc, we're lucky to have such problems, right?

I shoot on aperture priority but your problem of "too bright" (overexposed) with the Sigma 30 is probably due to your choice of metering and not Av mode. With Canon the choices are 'evaluative', spot, center, matix-partial, etc. I'm sure Nikon has a very similar selection that determines exposure for the shot. Experiment with the different options to avoid overexposing or pics that turn out too bright



Canon 60D
Sigma 30mm 1.4 (original non-art)
f2.8
ISO 1250
evaluative metering

15749089396_4ce918313e_b.jpg
 
The over exposure is odd, too occur with only one lens. It often suggests sticky aperture blades.
Try this little experiment - shoot the same shot, in daylight, in aperture priority mode. Take the exact same shot at f1.4, 2.8, 5.6, and 11.
If they become progressively brighter, then you have sticky aperture blades.
 
Thanks, I'll try both experiments. Right now I always keep it on spot metering as that is what we were suggested to do when I took a photography course and I guess I haven't progressed beyond that. This will give me something specific to try.
 
I shoot on aperture priority but your problem of "too bright" (overexposed) with the Sigma 30 is probably due to your choice of metering and not Av mode. With Canon the choices are 'evaluative', spot, center, matix-partial, etc. I'm sure Nikon has a very similar selection that determines exposure for the shot. Experiment with the different options to avoid overexposing or pics that turn out too bright



Canon 60D
Sigma 30mm 1.4 (original non-art)
f2.8
ISO 1250
evaluative metering

15749089396_4ce918313e_b.jpg


bob100, pictures like this make me want to upgrade my camera too, but I guess I should get the best from what I have first:)
 
Right now I always keep it on spot metering as that is what we were suggested to do when I took a photography course and I guess I haven't progressed beyond that. This will give me something specific to try.

For me keeping the camera always on spot metering would result in a lot of exposure issues. Spot metering is useful for situations such as high contrast, white areas, avoiding blown highlights, etc. but for the most part I just put the camera on evaluative mode, set it and forget it. But I also shoot in RAW and sometimes tweak the exposure before converting to jpeg
 
For me keeping the camera always on spot metering would result in a lot of exposure issues. Spot metering is useful for situations such as high contrast, white areas, avoiding blown highlights, etc. but for the most part I just put the camera on evaluative mode, set it and forget it. But I also shoot in RAW and sometimes tweak the exposure before converting to jpeg

Same here. I use spot metering mostly for shows, and evaluative the rest of the time.
 












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