TR-Mission:Exploration of new worlds by Capt’n Wrongway Wendy-Complete

[Aussie Wendy]

Tales of the Alhambra Part 4

(Did any one notice DD and I are both wearing Dr Who T's in the group pic - I just realised!)

This evening we had planned to watch the sun set over the Alhambra from the Mirador de San Nicolas, a few streets higher than our accommodation, but were a bit early and too hungry to hang about under the voracious eyes of all the African purveyors of trinkets when no other tourists were there yet. So making our way through rather empty streets,



we arrived in a busier part of town



And continued along our favourite river street where we had some very nice tapas looking up at the Alhambra. It was so nice we decided to stay put for dinner as well.

Tapas – Russian salad



My frutos del mar which was the blackboard special. The little whole fish were probably anchovies, not sure, but they were very good, as were the calamari and other scallop and musselly things.



DDs mixed grill



DH sausage paella.



Backdrop to our meal.



We watched the sun go down



Then wandered into the main part of the old city and did some souvy shopping before heading home.

On one of the old bridges. You can see how cold we are with our jackets on!



Columbus and Isabel statue with the fountains working.



Carrera del Darro at night



Inside one of the treasure trove of souvenir shops along the Darro



Last view of the Alhambra.



Captn’s highlights: The Alhambra of course though I think Seville’s Alcazar is equally as good actually.
Captn’s lowlights: Another day needed to explore the town and surrounds some more!

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Wendy, your trip report is fantastic, I love Spain, it is my favorite country in the world, (equalled with Guatemala).
Love love love seeing all photos, bringing back memories, we are currently planning a trip for next year and unfortunately Spain is not on the list, I so wish it was, but just another excuse to go back.
I really don't think one can ever tire of Spain

I never had Guatemala on my list til I saw some of your pics and some from another friend who visited then it and Belize made their way onto the wish list! I would like to see some of the Spanish mountain villages and the northern coast and Balboa. But then I'd like to go back to Slovenia which was amazing (though would now be more touristy) and visit Efterling in Holland and Croatia and Prague and Ireland..and..and..so many places in the world, so little time! Glad to bringing back memories for you.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Everything is so elaborate! And well done for climbing up 35 floors worth of ramps How long did it take to walk up?

We didn't time ourselves - 15 mins? everyone just kept moving at a good pace so we didn't get stuck behind slowmo's or get hassled by people wanting to go faster trying to overtake-we didn't know how many levels though and started to wonder at one point when the openings with views to the side ran out, how much further? Kept thinking this must be it - only to find yet another corner! It would be interesting to do it on horseback!

 

[Aussie Wendy]

WOW! Wendy. Another fantastic update. I think I'm going to steal your itinerary for WHEN I get to Spain. You're really encouraging me to go sooner rather than later.

Happy to feed the travel bug. The little mountain villages would be great to see too.

 

[zanzibar138]

I never had Guatemala on my list til I saw some of your pics and some from another friend who visited then it and Belize made their way onto the wish list! I would like to see some of the Spanish mountain villages and the northern coast and Balboa. But then I'd like to go back to Slovenia which was amazing (though would now be more touristy) and visit Efterling in Holland and Croatia and Prague and Ireland..and..and..so many places in the world, so little time!

You're absolutely right! So much world, so little time (and money!)

 

[shushh]

This is long overdue, but I had ALOT of reading to catch up on. I haven't been on the DIS for a long time.

I really admire the many of you that posts so many photos! And great ones at that. Aussie Wendy some really were magnificent.

I have not yet been to the UK at an age where I can remember anything so I really enjoyed the posts on Scotland in particular.

And Spain...what magnificent architecture. You did well to capture the grandure as well as the intricate details. The tiling work was amazing! I'm looking forward to reading more

 

[PrincessInOz]

food looks great. How was the Paella?

Glad you had time to smell the roses.

(And no, I didn't notice the matching Dr Who t's. Had to go back and look!)

 

[Aussie Wendy]

DH said to say that the sausage paella was pretty good - and they were different types of sausages too not just one sort.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 30 Mon 10th June Barcelona es mucho más

We had to be up while it was still dark to catch our plane to Barcelona. Julio was much upset that we had no time to eat and insisted on brewing us some coffee and handing some sweet bread around whilst the poor taxi driver stood waiting (but he was 10 mins early-every Spanish taxi driver to date has been 10-20 mins early – bizarre?). The driver and Julio handled our bags down all the steps too

A picture missed from previous posts – Duffy and a friend (OK so I have forgotten her name – DD has around 30 of these bears so I think I can be forgiven) having a play.



It was an easy drive to the airport which is small and cute – bit like Alice Springs or similar for those of you who have flown into a regional airport in Aus – but I was surprised at how far out in the middle of the countryside it was. We failed at taking a pic. Though small it was very modern and clean and well equipped. DD and I spent a bit of dosh in the Duty Free here (sshh…as it wasn’t our last destination we unpacked into normal luggage in Barcelona as it included liquids like olive oils and vinegars but we didn’t want to wait for Barcelona duty free and then not find what we wanted).

It wasn’t the best flight. It was an A320 but the pilot thought he was a fighter pilot and took off fast and steeply and banked early whilst rising steeply which made DD and I’s head spin (remember we are motion-sick prone) and left me feeling slightly queasy. It was only 1.5hr flight though and views of mountains and the coast on the way.



We had paid to be met at the airport as by the end of the trip DH didn’t fancy negotiating buses and metros with bags and our accommodation in Barcelona offered the service supplied by the manager’s husband. He gave us a very informative city tour along the way. We were staying out of the central city in an apartment complex directly opposite La Sagrada Familia, called Gaudi’s Nest. Our apartment was on the 3rd floor (equals 4th floor to most of us as the Spanish always have a Ground floor first) so up 6.5 flights of stairs. A bit tiring at the end of the day but the views were worth it.





The apartment was spacious and also had little balconies opening off the bedrooms over the street on the opposite side to the view but I was a bit disappointed there were no supplies left by others as you often find and also no toiletries, not even soap, or cleaning products other than toilet paper provided; the apartment in Seville was better equipped.

The main living/dining area (galley kitchen to the rear)



Our bedroom. DD was in the separate twin bedded room.



I loved how leafy and green the street looks from up here.



And the other way



The view from our front window again.



As always DH and I went off to stock up on supplies whilst DD stayed put. We had lunch in – cold chicken and salad and cake while admiring the view. The sun was streaming in through the French doors and I had a nap basking in the sun, after being so cold down south it was lovely!



4pmish I stirred the troops and we headed out. Bought T10 tix for each of us from the machine for public transport as figured that would do us pretty much for our 4 days and caught the metro to Placa de Catalunya at the top of Las Ramblas.







Las Ramblas was a very wide street with a central mall in the centre lined with souvenir stores, outdoor bars and cafes. I found it more attractive than I had expected given so many tourist guides are rather disparaging.



DD and I LOVED the paving which made it look like the street was undulating.



In La Rambla de les Flors



The price of Mohito’s have gone up though – from only €2.25 in Seville to €5.50 here! (I saw some ads recently in town here in Brisbane for “only” $14.75 a glass!) Lots of tourists were drinking Sangria from giantly oversized, balloon glasses with a straw. The Mercat de la Boqueria was still open, full of the usual delicious stalls, though the fresh fruit and veg and some of the other fresh food markets had closed for the day.





Chocolate – yum



Pigs trotters and sheep heads – not so yum.



A Miro on the pavement



We detoured to have a look at the exterior of Palau Guell, built by Gaudi early in his time (in the late 1880’s) for his patron the industrialist Eusebi Guell, a taste of what we would see the next day.



From here we wound our way through the narrow streets of the Barri Gotic, through Placa Reial, reminiscent of some of Paris’s squares though apparently until 1990 very seedy and the centre of an area habited by drug users and prostitutes. Not now – and the lamp posts are Gaudi’s first known works in the city. Both here and on Las Ramblas were lots of police keeping an eye on things.



Continued next post

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Part 2

Next we found Placa de la Seu and the cathedral. The front façade was an 1870’s Gothic revival northern Europe addition. We were just about over cathedrals; a peek inside revealed another Gothic vaulted church and as the recommended donation was €6 per person we declined and instead following my notes, popped around the side to view the beautiful cloister with its trees, fountains and resident geese.

Nice pic of the bins DH!





This part of Barcelona is called the Barri Gotic, though much of is a rebuilt recreation in the 20thC.



Love this pic.



Nearby were some remnants of the Roman walls dating from the 3rd and 4th centuries AD to repel attacks from Germanic tribes.



We wandered randomly through the narrow streets of now trendy El Born



and found ourselves in the district known as La Ribera, once the waterfront area. There was a church here DD and I wanted to see, the church of Santa Maria del Mar. The plaza in front once was the site of medieval jousting tournaments. Built in the 14th century this is the only surviving example of Catalan Gothic and is in a simple, spare style and was originally built by local seafarers and merchants. Inside was a simple, vaulted church which had a beautiful peaceful atmosphere and lots of lovely stained glass. They had a recording of music in the background and we sat a while enjoying the atmosphere.







Afterwards we wandered down to the harbour front and came out on La Rambla del Mar and the marina of Port Vell. Lots of people were sunbaking on the grass or promenading along the waterfront so we joined them. Lots of art work lined the route.

By pop artist Roy Leichenstein in tribute to the Barcelona artists including Miro, Picasso, Gaudi etc.





Looking towards Montjuic



Looking towards the Moll dÉspanya and Rambla de Mer that leads to it. The pedestrian bridge opens up to let boats in and out of the harbour.



Finally we reached Mirador a Colom, a monument to Columbus which is now a bit run down. It was built for the exhibition of 1888 and supposedly he is looking towards his home city of Genoa in Italy.



To end a long afternoon we caught the metro back to our apartment (2 different metro lines stops are just nearby). Those flights of stairs are a killer after a long walk though!

We had dinner in – home cooked pork in a sauce and vegies – looking at the lights come on the Sagrada Familia before watching a weird American dubbed in Spanish (but easy to follow) corny movie about the Loup Garou, werewolves.

View from our living room window.



Since it was clear night we persuaded DD to duck outside to the pond and take some pics.



We had seen pics of the Sagrada lit by coloured lights but that must be for special occasions only as all week it was just lit the same. Back in the apartment found it was too noisy to have the windows open so put the air con on and fell into the sleep of the innocent.

Captn’s highlights: The location of the apartment, easy to get everywhere. Barcelona – we love its “feel” already.
Captn’s lowlights: Not fussed on the woman manager of the apartment though the owner who lives on the top floor is lovely. As the last destination, the holiday is nearly over.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 31 Tues Gaudi Day

We all slept well (amazed at how much noise double glazing keeps out) and got away by 9 am-ish. Had the usual muddle exiting the metro (I never know if I am facing N, E, W, or S) and walking in the wrong direction (Wrongway Wendy strikes again) but eventually realised our mistake and turned around.

Our first stop was Casa Battlo, chosen after lot of angst deciding which Gaudi to visit, and the queues at this time were quite short. Pleased DD got a student discount again (she has almost everywhere over here) – good to see how much the Spanish honour overseas uni’s student cards, unlike some destinations.



We really enjoyed visiting this house with the included audio almost essential to understand the motivation and symbolism built into every surface. It is very organic; everything is curved and with an interplay of light through stained glass windows, openings that let air flow through so it is very cool and hints of creatures like dragon scale stairs and sea shell ceilings. A very liveable house.

The foyer with stairs that look like the spines of a creature.





In the reception room





Front windows with vents and coloured glass that reflect different light.



Another room with a seas-shell inspired ceiling





In the main dining/living area



This opens up to a courtyard.



Some close up details





Through the middle of the building is an atrium with a skylight which lights the stair and lift-well. Apparently Gaudi’s use of a skylight here is the first known in the world. The pale blue tiles darken as they reach higher to match the stronger light and the window openings are larger lower down to let in more light. The tiles were each especially cut to fit the curves.




The glass on the balconies on Gaudi's apartment side ripples giving an undersea effect.



Angles



Near the top you can see the detail



As well as Gaudi’s apartment the block contains several other apartments as well. I love the doors.



Looking down the atrium



The attics designed to house practical storage and utility areas for the complex, resemble the spines of a creature – the dragon hinted at on the roof perhaps.



On the rooftop with the strange chimneys





And the dragon-like shape.



In the building that housed the water tanks with a fountain-love the interplay of the reflections.



A view partly of Gaudi’s courtyard but also the Japanese-looking garden next door we liked.



In the spacious loft with Gaudi



Continued next post

 

[PrincessInOz]

That's an amazing apartment Wendy. The view is spectacular; as is your description and pictures of the days.

I'm sorry that the vacation is nearly over. But I think I'll be coming back to this TR after Christmas to rake it over with a fine toothcomb. It's a while away but I need something to help me get over the end of the last vacation blues. Pretend planning for a trip to Spain might be what the doctor ordered.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Part 2

Downstairs an exhibition of furniture designed by Gaudi.



I loved this bench.



The exterior again



And next door Casa Amatiler by Cadafalch which together with Casa Battlo and Casa Lleo Morera make up the Manzana de la Discordia.



After spending up in the gift shop we caught bus 24 outside to Park Guell. Unlike the metro the bus drops you right outside the gates and it was interesting to see some more of Barcelona’s burbs.

The park was designed by Gaudi for is patron Guell and was meant to be a housing project situated in and around gardens but it was abandoned in 1914 and never completed though Gaudi had finished 3km of roads and walks and gatehouses.

The “gingerbread-style” gatehouses-worthy of Disney.



Organic “trees”



Despite the heat, it was cool and shady in the colonnaded walkways that also were the buttresses to hold up the roads and paths above.



We headed to a lookout called the Hill of the Crosses



Passed this busker which I thought was good. Everywhere were Africans and Albanians selling jewellery etc from spread out rugs, like everywhere in Europe ready to pack up and run if the authorities approach. He must have been sooo hot though!



On the Hill



The Hill had some stunning views from looking over the park to the north, around east over the city to Montujuic and behind to the west the hill of Tibidabo.











Close up of Sagrada Familia



The plaza with the bird nests behind



More cool colonnades



The centrepiece of the park is what was to be a covered market held up by 88 columns and with mosaics set into the roof, topped by a plaza with a serpentine bench covered in mosaics and designed by Gaudi’s right-hand man, architect Josep Jujol.



A close-up showing the serpentine bench and mosaics





In the very cool (as in temperature) hall.



Mosaics in the ceiling



Continued next post

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Part 3

The infamous lizard fountain at the main entrance swamped by tourists



And another fountain



The main entrance which we exited by.



By now we were feeling very hungry, but the café in the park was packed. We walked downhill the 1.2km to the Metro following those who seemed to know where they were going. Passed lots of very hot looking people toiling upwards. At least we were fresh and rested when we arrived at the park! Thanks to LP tip about the bus. Whilst there were lots of places that looked good to stop and eat, the majority voted to go home to air conditioned comfort so we sprawled out on the couch in the cool munching, looking at that view of the Sagrada, while some washing washed itself.

A side reflection – we noted lots more very elderly people being wheeled around and looked after by daughters/helpers here. People so old and in such conditions that in Aus you only see locked away in nursing homes. Here they were being taken out and about, often completely comatose it seemed, but still out in the fresh air – makes one think ……

We had planned to end our Gaudi day at the Sagrada Familia, hoping queues had dispersed by late afternoon as I had never bothered to buy tix on-line, but by 4.45ish they were still long and in the hot sun so we changed plans and jumped on the Metro back downtown to go to the Museu de Historia de Barcelona (MUHBA) which was located in the Barri Gotic in the Placa del Rei. I had read it was open til 8pm. As it turned out it was only til 7pm but it was enough time.

This was another of those excavated Roman (and in this case Visigothic) cities, Barcino, lying in situ underneath the buildings above. This was the area of factories and workshops so ruins included a laundry and clothes dying workshop, a salted fish and fish-sauce (garum) making factory and a wine making facility. Remains were very impressive and though the pics look boring, it was really very interesting, especially as an “industrial” zone is not typically what one sees. Anyone interested in ancient sites should visit here. The wine making was particularly impressive with the pots where the wine was matured still in very good condition and in situ.

Roman wall where you can see they reused bits of everything to form it.





Laundry and dying workshop last half 2nd Century



3rdC Cetaria, salted fish and Garum fish sauce factory



I think these were jars that stored the Garum



The remains of the wine jars where the wine was matured.




I forget now (should have labelled pics straight away) but I think this was possibly part of the Visigothic church from 6thC



Mosaic underlying other remains



Passages leading to the Palace



Items in the museum that caught our eye and I can’t remember what they were of!









Around the late 8th Century the factories were out of use and the entire area was overlain by the Episcopal Palace



This adjoined the Royal Palace of 14th Century. The Salon de Tinell



And stained glass in St Agatha’s Chapel.



We left as it closed at 7pm. View of the exterior exit.



Nearby was the Viceroy’s Palace which houses the archives of the Crown of Aragon. It had nice courtyards and this amazing bronze door made by Josep Subirachs in 1975 which connects to the Salon de Tinell in the Royal Palace. It shows St George and the dragon and the arms of the counts of Barcelona and the kings of Aragon. The inscriptions are texts form various medieval writings relating the miraculous intervention of the saint in various battles.



I sampled some gelato from a recommended Gelataria (yum) but we headed home as DD’s stomach was felling a bit dodgy and she didn’t feel like a meal out as we had planned (and DH is always ready to agree – he hates eating out). Bought some very nice take-away lasagne for DH and I anyway. Decided to postpone a day trip tomorrow so will potter around town instead.

Captn’s highlights: Gaudi especially Casa Battlo – I always thought his stuff was a bit weird but now I get it-it is very light and beautiful and tactile.
Captn’s lowlights – am I actually going to get these troops of mine to have a meal out in Barcelona?

 

[PrincessInOz]

WOW Wendy. You're really outdoing yourself with each update. I LOVE all the things you went to see and do in Barcelona.

Absolutely beautiful.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Thanks PIO - I must get back to yours. I am looking forward to the national park bits!! I might have to do those in the US whilst you do Spain!

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 32 Wed There is a Sangria somewhere with my name on it

We were up early today and out the door to queue up for entry to the church we’ve been staring at since Monday. Despite being there around 8am (it opened at 9) there was still a queue and we were unable to buy a ticket to go up one of the towers, so this is one like the Alhambra, that really does need to be pre-purchased online.

Firstly a pic of the Sagrada glowing golden in the early morning light



A pic I haven’t posted yet of us up on the shared roof top balcony. I think DH was most fascinated by the enormous cranes actually mounted on top of the church to reach the high spires.






An hour later the gold has gone, showing the pond in front.



We started with the outside facade. After the busyness of the Nativity side which faces us, the Passion façade by Subirachs was sparse and powerful though it has been criticised for being too removed from Gaudi’s vision. The Nativity side has amazing detailed characters when you look closely but the surrounding whirls and bobs clutter up the scenes. Gaudi intended for it to all be painted but it is unlikely this will happen.

Some pics of Subirach’s Passion façade which tells the story of Christ’s last days in an S-shaped sequence staring with the last supper and ending with his burial at the top. We read in the museum he deliberately made it different to the nativity to contrast the joyousness of the nativity and life with the tragedy and pain of Jesus’ betrayal and death.



The Flagellation in front of the bronze doors.



Haven’t been able to id this one







Here is Gaudi’s busy Nativity completed under Gaudi’s personal supervision. He used many real people and animals for models including occasional corpses from the local morgue! The three sections represent Hope, Charity and Faith.





The shepherds





The two columns between the doorways each have a turtle or a tortoise symbolising the permanence and stability of Christianity.



Whereas the chameleon represents the forces of change



Not sure about the snakes and lizards



The Glory facade is yet to be completed but Subirach’s great bronze door is which has “Give us this day our daily bread” inscribed in hundreds of languages across it including Hebrew and Islamic. When finished the towers will represent the 12 apostles, plus the tallest central tower over the transept Christ and 5 smaller towers the Virgin Mary and the four evangelists.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Part 2

To my surprise, I really loved the inside. Great, soaring pillars that rose to elaborate hyberbolic ceiling vaults and skylights. I liked the imagery of a forest of trees and the way the light coming through the stained glass threw a warm coloured glow over everything. I am not religious but this felt like a church to be joyous in, and to celebrate, rather than the dour Gothic splendour that can be awe inspiring but humbles man in front of God – in contrast this felt light and warm and welcoming – if that makes any sense. The choir which is placed up high has space for over 1000 choristers. It would be something to hear! The audio recording of the Pope’s consecration gave a taste.

Here are assorted pics. The roof only went on and it was consecrated by the Pope in late 2010.



Views towards the rose window



Detail of the window



And the sculpture







Ceilings mimic the whirls and pods found in nature.



View towards the altar



Close up.









I love the light





Close up of some stained glass









Underneath is a crypt where Gaudi’s tomb is. He only saw the first few spires completed as he was run over by a tram in 1926 (whilst in a daze they believe thinking of his creation). He left tons of drawings and models so it could be completed following his directions but many were lost when the half-built church was stormed by the Nationalists during the Civil War.



A drawing of how the finished church should look



The model making workshop.


There was a very interesting exhibition on Gaudi’s philosophy and inspiration for the church and his other works which explained so much and how he incorporated nature in his designs. This included some very advanced maths, like using straight lines on a plane but tilted on the axes to achieve the curves. It also demonstrated how he was inspired by the elements in his surroundings – when he started building the church in the 1880’s it was surrounded by fields and thus the designs incorporate buds of flowers, fruit and the grains of cereals that grew around the church, hence the bunches of grapes and oranges and other things that top the spires, seemingly incongruously. He also uses microscopic images such as the whirls of an unfolded petal etc.

The museum was also fascinating – we never realised just how large the plaster models are that they build prior. It also included examples of some of Gaudi’s early work that he completed whilst at Architecture school; they are all so detailed and beautifully painted – he easily could have been an artist instead. Like Gaudi, Subirachs also lived on site during the years that he worked on the church.

Here is the long queue when we exited.



Reflections by daylight



Our apartment block across the park



Continued next post

 

[PrincessInOz]

Wendy - AMAZING! I read this last night and kept waiting for the "to be continued" part to be added....and then fell asleep.

The pictures of the inside are absolutely gorgeous. You and the family must have had the best time just exploring and looking at all the details in here.

Can't wait to see more.

 

[zanzibar138]

The view from your apartment is amazing!

I'd never heard of Gaudi before now (yes, I know, shame on me...), but now I am intrigued, and have also added the park to my wishlist

I know what you mean about being 'cathedralled out'. They are really amazing buildings, so detailed and beautiful, but after a few, I imagine there would be something very familiar about them. It's nice that the Sagrada is so different.