Whether you go with a "Rescue cat" (and I am certain you have some type of humane society in your area -- we have probably 20 rescue places for various types of animals in our medium-sized city) or whether you get a free kitten from an aquaintance, expect to pay $100-150 for first-month-or-so of cat ownership.
Advice on whether to get a kitten or an adult cat will vary widely. Personally, I prefer kittens because they're adorable and because I like to train my animals myself, and I like seeing them develop. Other people will tell you that an adult cat is more of a "sure thing" because you'll be able to see whether he's wild, skittish, calm, or whatever -- and you can choose what appeals to you. Also, if you want a declawed cat but don't want the guilt associated with it, you can choose a cat that's already been declawed. Declawed cats do end up in shelters, though you might not find one the first time you visit. And adult cats are harder to place, so you can feel that you've done a greater service by taking a hard-to-place animal.
Before you get the kitten, you'll need:
- a litter box (go full-sized, kittens grow fast). You can even make a homemade one from a plastic tub. Choose a model with high sides so the cat won't kick out the litter; if your kitten is very small, you might need to build him some steps (out of books or toys) to help him get in/out initially. Be prepared to keep it scrupulously clean -- cats will refuse to use a dirty litterbox.
- siftable litter and a scooper. Siftable is much cheaper in the long run, and you bring home fewer heavy containers.
- a soft bed of some type. This could be as simple as a fancied-up cardboard box with an old towel or blanket inside, but cats love to have a quiet, dark hidey-hole for their naps.
- food. Having grown up on a farm, I have had upwards of 50 cats in my life, and I haven't encountered a picky eater yet. Do choose a food with good nutritional value and stick to the same brand.
- containers for food and water -- go medium-sized, or you'll just end up replacing them as the kitten grows. Choose something with a heavy base so that the cat can't push it around too much. A cat fountain is best and encourages cats to drink more water, but they are pricey.
- cat scratch post (or similar) and nail clippers. Unless your cat is declawed. Also get some catnip to rub on the scratching post -- it'll make it super-easy to train the cat to use it.
- grooming brush. If you get a kitten, use this for short periods of time 'til the kitten comes to see brushing as a fun, calm activity for the two of you to share. If you choose an adult, it wouldn't be a bad idea to brush it while you're at the Rescue and see if the cat allows it /enjoys it -- it's hard to retrain an adult cat.
In addition, you might consider:
- a window perch. Cats love to sit in the sun and look out at cars and passers-by.
- toys. The best is a stick + string + feathers or some other something to chase. You can even make cat toys from strips of old, cut-up tee-shirts. Unexpected things (like a plastic Easter egg, or a paper grocery bag) may become favorites.
- a climbing toy. Cats love to climb, and the best climbers give the animal a place to lie down "up high" and look down upon its minions. You can even build shelves right into your walls so that the cat can "jump up" to a high perch over a doorway.
Medical needs:
- personally, I'd only agree to take a new kitten on the condition that it gets a clean bill of health from the vet. I'd make sure that if it turned out to have an expensive medical issue in the beginning, I could bring it back to the original owner. Not many cats are sickly, but I just wouldn't be willing to spend-spend-spend on a cat to which I'm not already attached. If it gets sick later in life, that's a different thing. Pick one that's lively and has bright, clear eyes, and pick one that's got enough meat on its bones to cover the ribs but not so much that it's fat. Fleas aren't the end of the world -- you can get rid of them; just do it immediately.
- it's not a bad idea to give the cat a deworming treatment (buy at Walmart or similar for $10 or so) just to be sure.
- if you get a cat from a shelter, it will have visited the vet for shots and will probably already be spayed or neutered (or they may make you an appointment for the spay/neuter. You'll find that shelters are VERY PUSHY about spaying/neutering, and when you look at how many kittens one cat cat produce in a year, it only makes sense.
- if you get a cat from a friend, you will need to do these things yourself.
- after those initial medical needs, you'll need a yearly follow up for a check-up and follow-up shots.
One general thought: I like cats to be either indoor pets or outdoor pets -- not both. If they come and go, they bring fleas into the house.
One idea before you allow your daughter to adopt a kitten of her own: I'd seek out a Rescue and have her volunteer for X number of hours. Let her see that cats are really a great deal of fun, but they do require care. It'll also let her learn how to scoop litter and feed kitties -- before she begins doing it at home.
Cats do cost less than dogs (both initially and they're less expensive to maintain), and I think they're easier in that they can be left at home alone for a weekend.