Its time for another episode of that popular soap opera: Tangents R Us. Its been a little while since I really went off the reservation, and I figured that it was just about time to correct that situation. Now to be fair, there is a Disney element to this one, but youll wave to wait a bit for it (or you can scroll down to that part of the update
or
you can scroll down to the next update and skip this one all together).
For those of you that are going to hang around this disreputable part of the TR, I figure that Id better get started. Our ultimate destination will be a seat at a dinner table, but todays starting point is this little spot on the map right here
Why?
Because that is where you will find gondolas and its the gondola that I intend to spend the first part of this entry discussing.
Why?
Well
DCL has compelled me to do so, but Ill explain that in a while. First
a bit of geography.
Venice is not a city as much as it is a collective; a collective of islands that is. It is made up of 117 small islands (although a couple of them are considerably more important then the rest in relation to this dissertation) that sit in an otherwise unremarkable saltwater lagoon in northeast Italy. Its prominence came from its location. It just happened to be in the perfect spot to create a trade crossroad during the time that Europe was awakening form its dark slumber and discovering a taste for all things Asian. But unlike other port cities of its age that were built on the edge of water, Venice was built on top if it. The seas dont flow around or by the city, so much as flows smack through it. It was this reality that lead Venice to create a different kind of public transportation system form the norm. Horses were impractical
what they needed was something a bit more buoyant.
The origin of the word gondola cannot be precisely tracked down, but the deceptively simple vessels bearing that name have appeared in paintings in nearly their current form since 1400s. Their origin as a mode of conveyance is said to be even older and one story credits them as having been a gift offered to the residents of the city in 1094 by a fellow named Vitale Faliero who happened to be the Doge at the time.
(mini tangent: a Doge is not the same as a Duke. There is no heredity involved in the title. Instead he was the most senior official elected by the aristocracy, which in Venice was made up not of royalty, but of businessmen).
This particular leader offered his citizens a group small shallow draft boats that could be used to travel around the city (kind of a thank you present for not voting him out). These boats caught on though not among the peasants, as was intended. Instead (and as usual), gondolas quickly became the mode of transportation of choice for Venice's upper crust (thus quickly pricing the regular rabble out of the picture).
So much money was being spent on making the family chariot more impressive and more ornate then thy neighbors that the government ended up imposing a set of "sumptuary laws that controlled the size, and amount of adornment allowed on a gondola. The laws even limited the color of all gondolas to black so that theyd be equal in appearance.
Why?
Well
if you just happened to be spending inordinate amounts of money showing off and one-uping your rivals, then youd have less that could be offered up in the required subscriptions back to the Serenissima (thats The Most
Serine Republic of Venice). Venice had war ventures, architectonic renewals, and general operations that needed funding and could not afford to have their merchants and nobles (being the source of said funding) frittering away cash stockpiles on mere vanity. Over time many such sumptuary laws were written into the books by the Republic to limit the waste in luxury. Of course, there were exceptions
if you were to see a gondola in Venice that is not painted black; it will be owned either by the church, or the government itself (except during a gondola racing event
then all bets are off in relation to color).
Now lets talk about the craft itself. At first glance, they appear to be fairly simple skiffs with raised ends, but appearances are deceptive. They are flat bottomed. This allows them to navigate fairly shallow waters. But, they also needed to be able to ply the deepwater areas throughout Venice and between islands, so an oar (called a rèmo) is used to supply the locomotion
(remember this point
its going to become important in a bit). The raised bow and stern of the boat is an adaptation that allows them to be more nimble in a turn (as there is less hull actually in the water and therefore less mass that has to be moved through it). All of these attributes combined with the fact that that the Gondolier always stands to the left side and always rows on the right, would lead to a vessel that was rather hard to control. The way that this problem was solved is that these are the only boats that are purposely built asymmetrically. The port side is higher and has more mass and surface area then the starboard side. This helps prevent the boats from pulling to the left with each stroke of the oar, but also gives them a somewhat skewed appearance as if they were slightly twisted or bent.
Take a good look and you should be able to see what Im on about in that row of gondolas pictured above. Heres a schematic that illustrates the concept a bit farther (its a little fuzzy, but you can get the basic idea)
And
heres just one more picture that displays the wiggle in the tail of a gondola pretty well
This warped appearance (some call it banana shaped) is the result of centuries of refinement and as you might expect there are strict laws governing the construction of these iconic craft. Each boat is mad up of 280 different pieces that fit together like a 3D jigsaw puzzle. There are also eight different type of wood used in each gondola and each wood has a specific purpose: solid oak for the sides, lightweight fir for the bottom, malleable cherry for the thwarts, larch for water resistance, bendable walnut for the frame, linden for reinforcement, mahogany for trim, and elm to bend alongside the walnut.
The only metal parts on the boat are the decorative risso attached to the stern and the much larger and distinctive ferro (or iron), which is built into the bow and acts as a counterbalance to the weight of the Gondolier.
The unique shape of the ferro on a Venetian gondola is fairly consistent and also has a good bit of symbolism built into it. There is some argument about all of the potential meanings but here are the ones that crop up the most. The curved part at the top has the shape of the traditional horned cap worn by the doge (the Coppelo del Doge). Next are the six prongs (or pettini) that face forward and represent the 6 districts (or sestieri) into which the city is divided. The seventh one that points astern is for the Island of Giudecca. The shank extending downward from six teeth and curving on below the water line recalls he the meandering of the Grand Canal.
More modern versions also have three particularly elaborate bits of design work incorporated in between the sets of prongs. Again, there is some argument as to the exact meaning of these bits (if any), but the story that pleased my ear the best was that they represent the three bridges that cross the Grand Canal; The Rialto, Scalzi, and Accademia bridges.
Much of the image that folks have about a ride in a gondola is somewhat romanticized and a bit of it comes to us via the movies rather then experience. I mean, Ive not yet had the experience of visiting any part of Europe much less Venice. The biggest of these misconceptions involves the Gondoliers and their purported penchant for serenading couples and lovely lone ladies while gently pushing their craft along the waterways of the city.
There are two things wrong with that last sentence and the first one is the business of serenading. The profession of gondolier is controlled by a guild, which issues a limited number of licenses yearly. These papers are granted only after periods of extensive training and apprenticeship. There is also a major comprehensive exam which tests their practical skills in careful handling the gondola typically necessary in the tight spaces of Venetian canals. The other component of this exam is a test of their knowledge of Venetian history, landmarks and foreign language skills. Now if youll notice, I never once said that they had to be accomplished singers and in fact, its rare that youll encounter this particular skill amongst these accomplished tradesmen. Some may, but it aint required. So
why do we think that this is normal and why do we also relate the tune: O Sole Mio is the number one song that Gondoliers should be singing? How did this song from Southern Italy (Naples to be specific) become tethered to our romantic notions of Venice in the north and on the opposite coast?
The most likely culprit is Hollywood. There is an urban legend that goes like this: during the transition from silent film to talkies there were several films released with singing gondoliers. Of course the whole thing was done in Hollywood on a soundstage, so the "gondolas" were about ten feet long, painted white with lots of gaudy decoration, and the songs were in Italian but not authentic. The rest of that story has only one guy working in the studios at the time who was Italian, and that he was from Napoli. As the person that was consulted, he's the reason that the top three songs most closely associated with gondolas in this country are from that region. The top three being:
Torna Surriento, Santa Lucia, and of course the number one
O Sole Mio.
Can I prove that? No, but I like the story.
Now remember that I said that there were two things wrong with that sentence way back there (and also remember that I warned you even earlier to remember one other bit info that would make sense later). Well weve arrived at later and also at the second part of this trifling Bonus Feature.
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Bonus Feature 16.5: Palo
Palo is the premier adult only dinning room aboard the Magic and Wonder and one of two similar spots on the Dream. From all accounts, it is also one very fine experience. Oddly though it also supplies one of these rare instances where Disney got a detail ummmm
how shall we say
wrong. Here, let me allow the fine folks at DCL explain the concept for you:
Palo on the Disney Dream is an intimate Adult Exclusive restaurant located on Deck 12, Aft that boasts Northern Italian cuisine for dinner nightly. Along with its rich cuisine and upscale atmosphere, Palo offers sweeping ocean views and an elegant décora perfect romantic setting for Guests 18 years of age or older.
As the preeminent venue for Disney dining on the high seas, Palo presents the best in fine Northern Italian dining, serving a varied selection of tantalizing favorites with a mouth-watering contemporary twist.
Palo, named after the signature long poles used by gondoliers in Venice, features stylish furnishings, custom art and an Italian-inspired décor. Every seat in the restaurant provides an excellent view of the ocean, thanks to raised seating banquettes along one side of the room, floor-to-ceiling windows and a semi-circular design. Adding to the magic is a backlit bar at the restaurant's center and a pianist who softly serenades diners in the intimate surroundings.
(Source: DCLs website)
Palo is Italian for the word pole the very thing that gondoliers do
not use to maneuver their craft though the water. They dont push the boats up and down the canals; they row them with a specifically designed oar called a rèmo. We most likely have Hollywood to blame for that misconception as well.
I originally intended for this bonus feature to be simple about Palo and Remy (the other adult restaurant on the Dream which Ill get to in a minute), but it was my research on the meaning of the name that started me down a whole different path and basically ensured that Id have to take what Id learned and waste your time with it (thats just another service that I offer). Well youve been tortured enough so now its time to actually talk about the restaurants and offer up a bit of info that you may actually be able to use. First well start with a couple of pictures (theyll tell you more that I will anyway)
Disclaimer time
Ive not yet had the chance to dine at Palo. There is an age limit of 18, and I have a son that is younger then that and is not all that thrilled about diving into the teen clubs with strangers (the guys in my family take time to warm up to folks and make friends, but once made, their friends for life). Being the case, we never felt right about heading off to an exclusive spot on the ship and leaving him to fend for himself (now if he had siblings it might be different, but
). Anyway, it is true that I cant speak form experience, but I can relate the comments of others and pass on the general things that youll need to know about this venue.
Reservations are required and seating is limited. Concierge Guests and Platinum Level Castaways Club members can start booking 120 days in advance, and honestly, theyll get the lions share of the ressies. But, if you are unable to reserve a table, you can head up to the D-Lounge as soon as you board the ship on the first day and try to book a spot then. DCL will hold a number of table slots for this purpose and they are distributed on a first come bases.
The next thing you need to know is that there is an extra charge for the privilege. $20.00 per person to be specific. If you need to cancel for any reason, do so before 2pm of the day of the reservation or they will charge you anyway (the same goes for no shows).
There is also an actual enforced dress code here as well. Ill let DCL explain this one so that I dont forget anything:
Dress Code:
At Palo, dress pants and shirt or jacket is required for men and a dress or pantsuit is required for women. Please no jeans, shorts, capri pants, flip-flops or tennis shoes.
Palo also offers a brunch during sea days on cruses of four days or more. It is buffet style and is just about as popular as the dinner spots. The cost is the same, but there are obviously fewer reservations available.
Generally, the meal will begin with an antipasto served tableside and end with desert (most folks go with he signature chocolate soufflé). The menu is quite extensive. Here a look see at the basics on the Palo menu (it does change form time to time, but this will be pretty close).
PANE CASALINGO
Freshly Baked Bread on Our Pizza Oven
Grissin Sticks, Olive and Ciabatta Rolls, and Focaccia Bread
Palo's Cold Antipasti Specialties presented from our Antipast Cartello
Prosciutto, Bresaola, Parmesan-Reggiano, Marinated Olives, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes
served with Palo's Famous Dips and Olive Oil
BUONA SERA
Pizze Del Pizzaiolo
Margherita
Tomato Sauce, Sliced Tomatoes, Mozzarella
Al Prosciutto
Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Prosciutto
Al Funghi
Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Portobello Mushrooms
Bianca
Mozzarella, Cherry Tomatoes
Ai Gamberi
Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Shrimp, Asparagus
Quattro Formaggi
Mozzarella, Mascarpone, Gorgonzola, Parmesan
ANTIPASTI, INSALATINE & ZUPPA
Tuna Carpaccio and Lemon Oil Dressing
Thin slices of Tuna brushed with chef's special lemon olive oil
Mozzarella and Plum Tomatoes with Balsamic Dressing
Our Modern Interpretation of a Traditional Dish
Sicilian Pesto Marinated Grilled Shrimp
on a Mussel, Crab and Cherry Tomato Ragu
Grilled Portobello Mushroom and Polenta
with a roasted shallot sauce and a parmesan chip
Fritto Misto di Pesce con Olive all'Ascolana
Deep-friend calamari, scallops, mussels with lemon and deep-fried green olives
Melanzane Funghetto
Lightly salted eggplant sauteed with garlic and parsley, served warm with a balsamic dressing drizzle
Fresh Arugula Salad with choice of Palo's Dressings
Tuscan White Bean Soup with Prosciutto and Parmesa Cheese
Garnished with Shredded Cabbage and Red Radishes
Cioppino
Italian Tomato Fish Stew with a Calamari, Clams, Shrimp and Halibut scented with garlic and basil
LA PASTA
Risotta di Mare
Saffron Risotto served with Fried Zucchini, Shrimp, Mussels and Clams
Wild Mushroom Risotto
with freshly shaved parmesan and a chianti reduction
Lobster and Mascarpone Ravioli
with a light truffle burro Bianco
Chianti Braised Beef Ravioli
tossed in a rich red wine reduction with oven-roasted carrots and celery
Gnocchi di patate con Gorgonzola e Aspargi
Potato gnocchi served with gorgonzola sauce with asparagus
Rosemary Pappardelle con Aragosta
Lobster, parsley and fennel with chili and fresh tomato sauce
Penne Arrabbiata Lombardia
with spicy fresh tomato and basil sauce, topped with grilled shrimp
FAGIOLI ALLA VENEZIANA
Venetian Peperonata
Vegetable and Bean Casserole
IL PESCE
Grilled Sea Scallops with Boriotti Beans and Pancetta
served with a tomato sauce
Rombo al Finocchio
Pan-seared turbot on fingerling potatoes, porcini, pancetta and fennel with walnut butter
Branzino in Cartoccio
Sea Bass Papillote with spaghetti vegetables and ginger orange glaze
Grilled Tuna Piemonte
Truffle-infused potato risotto with garlic marinated artichokes and a tarragon veal jus
LA CARNE
Pan-seared Calves Liver Mele e Cipolle
on polenta cake with caramelized apples and onions, garnished with air-dried prosciutto
Fagotti di Petto di Pollo con Ricotta e Basilico
Baked chicken breast filled with ricotta, basil and red peppers served with pinot grigio reduction
Osso Buco di Vitello
Slow-roasted center cut veal shank with gremolata and risotto Milanese
Oregano and Parmesan crusted rack of lamb
with sangiovese roasted shallots, olive oil baked roma tomatoes, potato pave and herb jus
Our Beef Tenderloin "Palo"
served with Palo signature Barolo red wine sauce or gorgonzola sauce
I DOLCI
Chocolate Souffle
with Vanilla Bean and Chocolate Sauces
Homemade Tiramisu
Layered Coffee-infused Ladyfinger with Mascarpone Cheese
Pistachio Cake with Amaretto Cream
and Hazelnut Meringue
Apple Crostata with Salted Caramel Sauce,
Sugar Dough, Braised Cinnamon Apples, and Whipped Cream
Panna Cotta
with Strawberry-Basil Sorbet
So
are you hungry yey?
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Bonus Feature 16.75: Remy
Remy is unique to the Dream and will also be a choice on board the new Fantasy starting in 2012. This too is a high end adult only dinning experience and is generally described as being even farther over the top then Palo (way
over the top). Remy offers French-inspired cuisine and is the most upscale dining experience on board. I think this would also be a good time to let the Disney folks tell the story the way they want you to hear it.
Dining at Remy is like being transported to an authentic fine-dining restaurant in France. The luxurious dining room is softly lit and designed in a timeless Art Nouveau style featuring soft greens, rich reds, and gold tones. Graceful, sinuous lines adorn the chair backs, glass and wall etchings, as sweeping floral and leaf designs ornament the carpet and lighting. Adding to the refined ambience, tables are set with Frette linens, Riedel glassware, Christofle silverware, and china created exclusively for the restaurant. The adorable Remy character appears in artful ways throughout the restaurant's design for a touch of Disney magic.
Boasting a French-inspired menu featuring superior seasonal ingredients from around the globe, dining at Remy is a leisurely affair. Beginning with a complimentary chilled Champagne cocktail that is prepared at your table, dinner is comprised of multiple courses. For an extra charge, Remy offers a stellar wine list in addition to a wine pairing option. Elegant touches include a tableside trolley for international cheeses, decanting stations for wines, and an after-dinner coffee service.
Remy's gourmet menu was created by Chef Arnaud Lallement from l'Assiette Champenoisea Michelin 2-star restaurant just outside Reims, Franceand Chef Scott Hunnel from award-winning Victoria & Albert's at Walt Disney World Resort.
Again, reservations are required and disappear just as quickly. The extra charge for this experience it $75.00 per person and you will need to add on the cost of wine and alcoholic beverages. The same rules for cancelations that are in effect at Palo also apply here as well.
Other differences at Remy include an invitation earlier on the day of the reservation to meet with a sommelier in their wine room to pre-select the wines for the evening. Really
Im not making this stuff up. There are also options to dine in the
Gusteau Room where guests can enjoy a unique multi-course menu while interacting with the head chef or in
The Wine Room: as luxurious glass-walled room with marble flooring amid more than 900 bottles of wine, including a rare selection of Old World wines balanced with a solid selection of New World wines.
There is a dress code for Remy as well and its a might more formal then the one at Palo. As such, I think Ill let Disney explain that one too:
A dress code is enforced during dinner.
Men: A jacket (such as a sports, suit or tuxedo jacket) is required, with dress pants/slacks and shoes. Ties are optional. Please no jeans, shorts, sandals, flip-flops or tennis shoes.
Ladies: Cocktail dress, evening dress, pant suit or skirt/blouse are required. Please no jeans, shorts, capri pants, sandals, flip-flops or tennis shoes.
On the up side
if you forget to bring a jacket, Im told that they keep a stash of them and if need be, will help you to choose one when you come up early that day to meet the sommelier (I suspect that Id feel mightily out of place here, but I bet it one hell of an experience).
Here are a couple of excerpts from one write up that I found elsewhere on the board that will give you some additional insight into what to expect.
There are two tasting menus - one designed by each of the two chefs [Saveur Menu and Gout Menu] and are accompanied by suggested wines. One can also order ala carte. The selections include the elements of the two tasting menus plus other options. You choose a starter, a fish, and a meat dish. Dinner begins with a champagne cocktail
Alex[the sommelier that evening] was ever present with spot on wine recommendations. Then an amuse bouche - rattatouile. Then the starter, fish, and meat course. Then cheese service. Dessert. Second dessert. A rose for the ladies (did I mention that a stool is provided for one's purse?) and, back in the cabin, truffles and a thank you note from the restaurant.
Starting to get the picture?
Heres a look at the menu offered at Remy starting off with the set tasting menus and then the ala carte menu (which will include the items from the tasting menus along with farther descriptions).
Set Menus
Additional $99 for Wine Pairing (in parentheses below)
Saveur Menu
[Chef Arnaud Lallement]
Langoustine Royale
(Taittinger Prestige Cuvee Rose NV)
Declinaison Tomate
(Domaine Larouche Chablis Vaillons '07)
Tubot Cotier
(Domaine Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet '08)
Pigeonneau
(Chateau Batailley '06)
Fondant Chocolate Croustillant, Sorbet Cacao and Jus Mousseux
(Chateau Doysi Vedrines '06)
Gout Menu
[Chef Scott Hunnel]
Smoked Bison
(Chateauneuf du Pape Chateau Mont-Redon '08)
Lobster
(Michel Redde Sancerre '08)
Wild Loup de Mer
(Marc Kreydenweiss Kritt Gewurztraminer Les Charmes '06)
Australian Wagyu
(Chateau Gloria '03)
Vanilla Poached Pear
(Chateau Suduiraut '07)
A La Carte
Order all items from one menu (Freshness, Sea or Earth),
or pick and choose your courses.
Fraicheur/Freshness
Langoustines Royale Sauce Cesar
Royal Norway Lobster with Caesar Sauce
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Alaskan King Crab Cannelloni,
Hearts of Palm and Caviar Vinaigrette
Chef Scott Hunnel
Declinaison Tomate Tarte,
Tomate Glacee Basilic, Siphon Parmesan et Tomate
Variations of Tomato: Tart, Iced, Parmesan, Espuma and Tomato
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Smoked Bison
with Fennel Salad and Blood Oranges
Chef Scott Hunnel
Mer/Sea
Turbot Cotier "Vin Jaune" Gnocchi
Coastal Turbot with Vin Jaune and Gnocchi
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Lobster with Vanilla,
Bisque and Lobster Roe Foam
Chef Scott Hunnel
Saint Pierre Chorizo Espuma,
Carotte Epicee John Dory with Chorizo Espuma and Spicy Carrot Mouse
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Wild Loup de Mer
with Cannellini Bean Sauce, Artichokes and Jamon Iberico
Chef Scott Hunnel
Terre/Earth
Pigeonneau Tourte, Foie Gras, Tomate et Epinards
Young Pigeon Pie with Foie Gras, spinach and Tomato
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Australian Wagyu
with Garlic-Potato Puree and Petit Carrots
Chef Scott Hunnel
Cochon Cul Noir
Pomme de Terre, au Siffon, Pied de Cochon, Salade
Black Pork Loin with Siffon Potato, Pork Trotter Stew and Glazed Ham
Chef Arnaud Lallement
Veal Tenderloin
Sweetbreads and Braised Shank with Marble Potatoes
Chef Scott Hunnel
Dessert
Fondant Chocolat Croustillant,
Sorbet Cacao and Jus Mousseux Dark Chocolate, Praline, Cococa Sherbet
White Chocolate and Meyer Lemon Purse
With Blackberry-Violet Sherbet
Croquant Acidulé Sorbet Citron,
Lemon Acidule`bite, Lemon Sherbet Chef Siegrist (A. Lallement)
Vanilla Poached Pear
With Cassis Mousse and Hazelnut Meringue
Dont know about yall, but coming form a family that considered a bowl of pinto beans along with some cornbread for sopping up the drippings to be high-end dinning, this menu just makes my head spin.